I was pretty young, about 14. I wasn’t a confident surfer and had the worst stamina ever when it came to swimming. In a pool, I could maybe swim 5 laps of 50m and then I’d be fully dead. It was 5am, no one was out and the air was foggy. The conditions were about 8 ft waves of full powerful white wash close outs. I borrowed my mates shitty surfboard and paddled out. About 3/4 of the way to the back I realised I could not surf these waves and it was dangerous for someone as inexperienced as me. So I decided to catch a bit of white wash in to get a bit closer to shore. The waves were so powerful I got absolutely smashed and let go of my board instantly. My leg rope SNAPPED from the impact and my board got snatched from me by the wave. I watched my board go all the way to the shore, as I barely moved from where I first took the wave.

I was so fucking stressed in that moment. I was so sure I was dead with no one to even call out help to.

I was 150 m away from shore, tired, getting hit constantly by huge walls of white wash holding me under, and my arms were like spaghetti from paddling out. I attempted to paddle to shore but the waves were pulling me out 2x faster. I was in a strong rip.

The luckiest moment of my life was when I was about to give up and a big wall of white wash tumbled me forward and miraculously landed me right next to my board, which somehow got pulled back where I was after being sent to shore. I put on the leg rope and gripped the board as hard as I could, and stumbled back to shore successfully.

Once I made it back, I sat on the beach, absolutely freaked the fuck out for hours. I have not surfed anything remotely big since. I went from taking on decent waves to not going out of it was bigger then 3ft.

If I didn’t land on the board I would have died because my swimming is so shit. I am still in disbelief that the board ended up finding its way back to me. There was zero chance I would have made it back without it.

It was truly a miracle that the board found its way to me. I always try calculate the odds of it doing that, which I feel are definitely below 5%. The saddest thing is because of this, I feel more guilty and ashamed rather than grateful, which heavily weighs on me.

I haven’t really told anyone this story, because to a proficient surfer, this may seem pathetic. I’m sure most of you may not have struggled in this situation. But I hope someone out there can understand.

Looking to explore somewhere epic and go on a surf retreat for my partners 30th. Have been looking at central / South America but open to anywhere really (coming from London). We’ve surfed a handful of times so are still on the beginner side (can stand up and catch small waves) - but looking to level up. Ideal trip would be somewhere a little luxury (but not insane prices), very chill laid back atmosphere, daily schedules, possibly yoga / hikes as well, good group of people nice community and food - well located, plenty of surf and coaching! I’m picturing a beer on the beach every sunset. We’re not massive drinkers so not looking for a party place. Keen to hear ideas and places!

... got it home, rested it on wooden bench to attach new leash, dinged it on the metal corner of the bench, much worse ding than the one just repaired. It didn't even get wet.

Am kook.

How can something be so amazing and hidden away from me for so long.

Where do yall usually surf when it’s bombing everywhere

Hey. Non surfer here with a question for the community. I've always wanted to photograph surfers at Fort Point. It looks like a big swell forecasted for NorCal Monday. Does the forecast look good for Fort Point? Is there a specific time (tide) people would be surfing? Thanks

I’ve loved surfing this board but unfortunately I creased it the whole way across the deck yesterday and cracked the glass on the rails at both sides.

Did a quick solarez job on the rails so I could surf it again today. Wondering if there’s any point in trying to get the crease fixed, or if I should just surf it until it fully goes.

Heading to Troncones Monday for the week. Any tips, recs? Surf, food, etc…

Does anyone have experience of the Macaronis surf clinics they run in Jan / Feb time?

I have a decent amount of surf experience, but have never been to the Mentawi's and would not have the confidence to go solo, which is why I'm looking at the camp option. Aware its off season and looking for opinions on if these camps are worth the money.

Hey guys!

Im a brand new surfer ! I just moved to San Diego from New York (Cali omgggg) and im starting to learn to surf.

I moved here after trying ayahuasca in Peru. My shaman told me to buy more crystals for by my bed table, and to start surfing because everyone is so nice. I love the vibes of Cali - especially at tourmaline!!!

Now I am loving all of the cute crystal stores in OB. I have 6 roommates and we all go to tourmaline together three times a week. My spirit is fully healed.

I love tourmaline! Every time I paddle out hot guys hit on me in the waves. Sometimes when I look to the left of me and see someone going I just go anyways and they’re always so nice about it.

Tourmaline is a community, and I think more people should join it!!!! Xoxo love all my tourmaline boys.

Just visiting for the weekend and seems like something big is going to hit socal.

I am staying in Mar Vista with a friend anyone know if any breaks around the LA area will be able to hold the size or anywhere that is a little more mellow?

Thanks

Seems like we are once again prevented from easily viewing a prestigious surfing event. I would have thought the backlash of the Pipemasters would have prevented this but does not seem like it’s the case. Hoping someone does a YouTube stream like Nate did for the Pipemasters. Yes, Rogue.TV is only $3 and would be easy to sign up for but I am a lazy sack of skin who refuses to adapt to life

Got beef I got choke like wan sample deez Hanz brah?

Anyone had this happen before? Was riding it in on my stomach in pretty big waves and think I felt the board flex. I always had a pretty big pressure ding on that side and it seems to have started from there.

I’m thinking I’ll probably cut that section out, fill it and re glass? Is that overkill or is it likely to snap if I don’t?

Thanks!

Recently theres been a bunch of upwelling and a ton of tiny stringy jellies in the water. I'm in a remote town in Nicaragua so I have no wetsuit with me and no where sells them / will deliver here.
Right now I'm wearing a rash guard, board shorts + boxer briefs bc the f*ckers got in my shorts and stung my ballsack yesterday.
My legs are still getting destroyed though, no joke I'm considering wearing my girlfriends yoga pants to paddle out next time.

I tried them on - they fit well enough but thing is she's hobbit sized so the bottom ~25% of my legs are sticking out and the ankles are the worse. A dude on the beach said I could lube em up with vaseline to prevent stings and put nail polish remover(???) on the stings after to draw out the venom.

Anyone got any advice?
Only got a week left here and want to surf as much as possible, getting pretty desperate.

Hi everyone, I’m curious to know if anyone here surfs while wearing compression/impact vests? Do they affect paddling or movement in any way? I'd love to hear about your experience and if it impacts your surfing performance. Thanks in advance!

This is the biggest I've seen it. Can it hold at this size or does it just crumble? Anyone braving it?