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Welcome to the sport!

Please, before you ask any questions about your new board, or learning, or etiquette, or whatever, check out the /r/surfing WIKI page.

The whole community worked on it, and it's got a ton of info. Afterwards, if you still have questions, feel free to post.


Be warned, if your self post makes it obvious you didn't read the WIKI, someone may give the wrong advice, on purpose, just to be an asshole.


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About /r/surfing

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    /r/surfing

    183,705 Subscribers

    1

    DHD Interceptor - opinions please.

    Talking to my local board shop about swapping out my JS El Baron (6’10”) for an Interceptor (6’6”). Not many video reviews online.

    0 Comments
    2024/07/24
    09:06 UTC

    1

    Dealing with beginner surfers.

    Was surfing with a buddy today at a large beach break that had several decent peaks for hundreds of yards. We found ourselves a corner that wasn’t working as well but it was empty so the trade off seemed reasonable. We got a few waves each and then we saw a group of beginner surfers paddling out. They proceed to sit directly behind us by about three feet and immediately follow us when we try to move to a further peak far down the beach. My patience was beyond thin and I snapped at them when I finally mentioned something. Curious how the rest of you guys handle situations like these!

    Edit: My friends go to is asking if he looks like Google Maps which always cracks me up.

    2 Comments
    2024/07/24
    07:00 UTC

    1

    Getting around in Puerto Escondido

    I plan on going to Puerto Escondido next month for a week to surf solo. I’m wondering how easy it is getting around there. I want to be able to surf different breaks out there such as Barra de la Cruz and I’m wondering how easy it is to get around to these places. Any advice?

    0 Comments
    2024/07/24
    06:55 UTC

    3

    Avoiding a broken neck.

    Hey guys I’m looking for advice on how to prevent neck injury when surfing. I was surfing the other day and was coming back in when I had a gnarly wipeout where I got thrown right on my head/neck on the sand. Thank God my X-rays are good and nothings broken but I will be out of commission for a while. I’ve already tried to land on my but and away from my board when wiping out buy this time I was just rag dolled right on the dome. Anyone have similar experience or advice. I know people have broken their neck while surfing and definitely looking for some info. Thanks

    29 Comments
    2024/07/24
    04:53 UTC

    0

    Looking for fellow Software Devs that surf (Los Angeles)

    Sup kooks, I’m a Swift developer that's been surfing for 20+ years and realized recently I don't have many friends in the industry. It'd be great to be able to surf and chat about projects, architecture/app organization, frameworks, methodology, ways to improve projects, ASO, etc.

    Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or just starting out, it would be great to meet others who share these interests. I'm not looking for a job, I just find it more difficult to meet people outside of work since most of the conferences have gone online after Covid. It’s always more fun to bond over common interests both on and off the water.

    If this sounds like something you’d be interested in, drop me a DM. Looking forward to making some new friends to kook out with.

    8 Comments
    2024/07/24
    03:18 UTC

    2

    Anyone Ridden Maurice Cole Reverse Vee Double D?

    Aside from Trip Foreman’s review on Real Water Sports website I can’t find a single thing anyone has to say about that board. Picked one up second hand to use as a substitute for longboard in playful summer surf.

    3 Comments
    2024/07/23
    23:18 UTC

    2

    coffin bag

    Purchasing a coffin bag and would like to know if anyone has purchased or used both of these for comparison. Pro-lite armored coffin vs DB journey. I'm leaning more towards the DB since it folds up and I could put it in my closet.

    1 Comment
    2024/07/23
    23:16 UTC

    118

    Had some fun this morning in Southern France

    12 Comments
    2024/07/23
    22:09 UTC

    1

    New Fin Box Too Tight

    Had to replace a Futures fin box in my board. Bought a name-brand box and the fin fit just fine when I was using it to measure the angle while setting it. Now that the resin has cured and I sanded everything down an "finished" the repair I am really struggling to get a fin back in the box because it seems like it's pinched a bit in the middle.

    I know that if I sand the fin down a bit I could get it to go but I have a few fin sets I share with other boards and was trying to avoid this. What's the best move here??

    4 Comments
    2024/07/23
    21:31 UTC

    51

    Ben Gravyy’s Looking For You

    Do you know this kid? This shot is from the unhinged “Slamarack” event last week in Carlsbad and Gravyy wants to give this dude a free board. If you know him, let him know to reach out to Ben because he’s coming to SoCal next week.

    11 Comments
    2024/07/23
    20:50 UTC

    21

    Any country has a chance to take out USA in Olympic surfing?

    69 Comments
    2024/07/23
    20:48 UTC

    16

    winter trip to Hawaii

    It looks like there may be an opportunity to take a 2-3 week long trip to Hawaii this December, and I’m wondering which island is the best for intermediate surfers during that time. I’m definitely not at the level that most spots on the north shore require, so going there would feel kind of pointless for me because I want to surf and not watch from the beach. I’ve spent the last 6 years consistently surfing, and have gotten much more confident in heavier waves recently since moving to Santa Cruz 4 years ago. For those at a similar level to mine, which island do you find suits us best in the winter?

    21 Comments
    2024/07/23
    20:29 UTC

    0

    Would you hire a “board pusher”?

    So I was surfing with a buddy recently and it was pretty flat. We were bored and started talking about some business ideas of how to handle flat days, and I thought of this board pusher idea. Here’s how it works:

    As a board pusher, you’d go out surfing like normal, but wear a wetsuit / rashguard that says “board pusher” on your front. Anyone who wants to catch a small one and needs a push, will just yell at you, something like - “hey give me a push”, and you’d quickly go behind this person and push the board to give them a lift and have them catch the wave.

    The payment part is a bit hard, maybe we will create an app and the two parties would bump their Apple Watches or something to quickly exchange payments. And maybe we will price it at $2 per push.

    It’s like a Uber for surf lifting!

    How does that sound? Would you do it? (Either the pusher or pushee)

    40 Comments
    2024/07/23
    19:49 UTC

    12

    Shortboard Nose to the Face

    This morning I saw the aftermath of a shortboard nose to the a young guys face. I didn't see the accident, I just helped the guy on the beach and gave him a towel. He's going need some work done for sure.

    This got me thinking... I don't have a nose guard on my shortboard but I am getting one now. How many of you use them?

    44 Comments
    2024/07/23
    18:20 UTC

    1

    How to get out of “Tide Basic” Nixon Base Tide Watch

    Can't seem to figure out how to get out of this

    6 Comments
    2024/07/23
    17:46 UTC

    17

    Why did r/surfboardshaping go bye-bye?

    9 Comments
    2024/07/23
    17:27 UTC

    96

    There are a lot less people in the water this summer

    I’m from NYC, my usual spot is Rockaway. Usually in the summer, you have a great combination of really small waves and a million people in the water at the same time.

    Conditions haven’t really been any better or worse than they always are in the summer here, but I have noticed a LOT less people surfing. Since 2020 when it seems like everyone but me started working from home, even at 6am on a flat day there’d be 30 other people shoulder to shoulder between the jetties. This summer I’ve had many days where it’s just me, or me and three or four others. It’s been really nice. Weekends are still a carnival.

    Do you think that the post Covid surfing fad is fading? Maybe because lots of people have had to go back to the office on weekdays? Have you noticed a change where you are?

    96 Comments
    2024/07/23
    13:26 UTC

    5

    Madlad Kip Caddy

    If you like big wave surfing and mental drops then you’ll dig this beautiful cinematography. Kip Caddy is a fucking charger.

    5 Comments
    2024/07/23
    03:23 UTC

    0

    Nicaragua surf trip popoyo or colorados for sta

    I was thinking of staying by Colorado’s to ensure i could def surf and then drive to popoyo occasionally to surf a different break.., is popoyo a gated community as well.. is that an unrealistic strategy?

    10 Comments
    2024/07/23
    02:15 UTC

    8

    San Fran - Santa Cruz on small swells, high tide spots

    i will be flying into San Francisco on Wednesday mid day. I see that the tide looks high in the afternoon. I would appreciate it if any kind souls could give a tip or two where I could find some high tide waves on Wednesday afternoon. I will be in town Wednesday to Sunday morning and was hoping to surf a couple sessions a day.

    I am from the east coast, and it does not take a huge amount of wave to get me excited. Thanks

    25 Comments
    2024/07/23
    01:25 UTC

    52

    Too Fish post-trip observations

    Just picked up a Too Fish and surfed it for a week in El Salvador. Me 6' 160lbs 50+yr old, surfing since early teens. Too Fish 5'3" 28.5L. Rode it with single foiled keels and no (god no) traction pad. Surfed it in chest-high to overhead, fun sand point to hollow reef waves. Clean to slightly choppy.

    It's a pseudo-traditional fish with modern touches like pinched rails, a super tapered tail, and a generous single concave starting just above the midpoint through the tail. With the traditional outline and the fin placement you would expect it to be slashy. It is. But it's a fish. No surprise. With the pinched rails and the concave you would expect it to be carvey. It can be.

    The amount of slashy vs. carvey you get from it is dependent on you back foot placement. If you're directly on top of the fins or slightly on top/forward of them you're going to get very slashy shorter arc turns. If you get behind the fins you can round out the turns into something more modern and carvey. Here's the thing though... If your back foot is as far back as it can go (i.e. the outside of your foot is touching the apex of the swallow tail, at least on the 5' 3") your foot is still over the fins. So, per Rob in his promotional videos, the board, esp. at the smaller sizes, has a very small sweet spot.

    When you surf the board with your foot on that sweet spot, it pretty much does what you want. It's super responsive and you have the control to change up your turns. You can still turn with your feet over the center of the fins and even cheating slightly up. The difference is when you turn with your foot increasingly up, the board feels like it's surfing you.

    I have a couple of other fish with very similar dims/attributes. The difference between them and the Too Fish is the fin placement. I didn't measure exactly, but just eyeballing them, the fins on the other boards are a little further up. This means that you have some more wiggle room in that carving position and you can go further back and make some less slashy turns (the outlines are also slightly more rounded tbf). The downside on these boards is that when you go too far back and you can get that twitchy spin out effect in more powerful waves. I'm guessing Rob didn't want that stigma following his board around so he went with a more conservative placement.

    Did I enjoy the board? Hell yeah. It's light (didn't feel "corky" to me), sturdy, and makes a great travel board for a host of conditions. But, you need to regularly make sure that back foot is in the right place. If it's not on takeoff and you want to throw some confident turns down, you need to move it into place. Depending on your skill level and how challenging the waves are this might be easier said than done. If you're worried about the foot placement issue and are still interested in the board, you can size up for a bigger sweet spot... which is what Rob Recommends in one of his promotional videos. (Edit: the traction pad might be a good addition for some. When your foot hits that tail block you know it's in the right spot.)

    For me, the small sweet spot has improved my surfing over the last week. I've become less sloppy with my foot placement, more aware of moving it mid-wave, and plan to carry over the habit into all my boards. That said, I'm going to look into a hybrid fish/performance board that maintains the drive of a fish but gives me the room/sweet spot behind the side fins and an outline to do more "modern" turns. In the end, the Too Fish has a permanent place in my quiver particularly when traveling. It's a blast if you pay attention to how you surf it.

    21 Comments
    2024/07/23
    01:10 UTC

    37

    Looking for someone in San Diego to film a surf session. Will pay $60 an hour.

    24 Comments
    2024/07/23
    00:51 UTC

    2

    Portugal: head North or South after Ericeira?

    Heading to Portugal for 10 days in early October. I booked a place in Ericeira but was thinking of taking off after 5 or 6 days and checking out a different destination. Figueira Da Foz is one idea that seems appealing, especially since that gets me within striking distance of Porto (for a non-surfing-related visit). Any intel on the waves there? I'm an intermediate surfer with 20 years of experience but I wouldn't overestimate this skills at this point (I'm in my late 40's). Some long, chest-to-head high right-handers would be just the ticket! The other idea would be to head South somewhere, dunno.

    8 Comments
    2024/07/22
    22:58 UTC

    2

    Waterproof knee brace to prevent hyperextending back knee?

    Per MRI, I sprained my PCL (posterior cruciate ligament). It's insanely painful, but I am on the mend and can walk without crutches after a few days.

    Usually, I'd wait until fully healed to get back in the water, but I have a long-awaited and paid-for trip to Pavones in 10 days. Of course, the doctor says I should not surf.

    In addition to physical therapy, I am wearing a brace to prevent my knee from hyperextending backward.

    It would be ideal to wear a brace while surfing - is there a lightweight and waterproof option?

    12 Comments
    2024/07/22
    21:16 UTC

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