My car is Estoril Blue... nearly identical to the Deep Sea Blue that I want to go over it with. It will limit the differences in the door jambs and engine bay making cutting lines very easy!

Sice the colors are so similar, do I need to put down black first since I am not "changing" colors?

Cheers!!

I’ve seen a lot of people plastidipping their emblems and lettering on the elantra. I’m fairly newer to doing this stuff and was wondering how long after I would have to wait until I could drive my car? I’m planning on doing it in a heated garage and online says you have to wait 24-48 h for it to cure. does that mean i can’t drive it for 1-2 days?

I’ll start my first dip and own an 80 gallon 13cfm compressor with various spray guns.

Would it still be better to dip with a turbine gun like Fuji or dyc kits?

I’m interested in quality and would like to avoid having to thin out the pre mixed dips and tons of overspray.

So in your experience, what is the absolute best gun for in home spraying? Thanks! 🙏

Overcast day but the car is on the road finally, been breaking necks ever since. The pearl adds some gold hues in brighter sun - very happy with the result. Still doing my write up for lessons learned. It's a great product - I used the ceramic spray from DYC and it really slicked out the texture. I'll be sure to review how it holds up but I think it's going to be solid. 10 coats.

It’s been a week and they still feel sticky-ish/ not fully cured? This is my first time using Plastidip. Several coats, metallizer, and glossifier. It was a bit colder when I applied but I definitely thought they would have cured out by now. Any suggestions?

So I'm currently restoring a number of old GM muscle cars. One thing we are on now is the spark plug wire looms, GM dipped them in a sort of rubber compound that dried into a form fitting glove around the spark plug wire slots. Plasti-Dip seems to be the best way to replicate this and I'm about 95% of the way there to looking damn close to factory original. The problem is, after the 4 hours has elapsed, almost all the parts have these tiny little craters all over the surface, like popped bubbles, super small, less than 1mm in diameter each.

I started by dipping them into straight Plasti dip, which resulted in a perfect thickness right off the bat, but the dip was so thick that it would fill in the wire slots in the loom holder. I ended up thinning it 4:1 with a V&P Naphtha substitute. This was damn close, and took about 2 dips to get the thickness right but still filled in the slots too much. Ended up with about a 3:1 mixture, 3 dips, with a painters tape torn off about 30 minutes into drying and at the 30 minute mark looks perfect, and almost indistinguishable from an NOS wire loom holder. The problem is, after it's all done drying, the whole think is covered in the aforementioned popped bubbles look.

Anyone dealt with this before? The can of dip says specifically to stir it before each use, and with it being as thin as it is now with the 3:1 mixture, I wouldn't think it would have THAT many trapped air bubbles...do I need to clean these parts with a mineral oil before hand? It seem like an out gassing effect to me but I could be wrong. Any input is appreciated.

Hi all,

Looking to plasti-dip some emblem pieces + wheels on my truck.

I want a really shiny gloss black finish. I am not a fan of Satin/Matte finishes.

What plasti-dip color is best for this?

I’ve read I also will need either glossifier and 2K clear coat? Do I apply glossifier first then the 2K clear coat?

How many cans should I look to purchase of each?

All suggestions are welcomed

Took the blue beetle out for a road trip on a ski trip and boy I most say, it definitely helped finding the car much easier in the sea of roof boxes. It took a few hits on the 36 hour total drive but just gives me a reason to do a touch up project later on down the line when it gets much worse.

I've seen a lot of posts on using plastidip to delete chrome, which would be awesome because of how cheap it is, however nothing mentions how durable it is

I'll be doing it on a Ram 2500, which I use for work, so it gets pretty filthy, sometimes for months on end. A lot of it is off road as well, so rocks and other things could hit the coating

I also live in a relatively harsh climate, it regularly gets to -20F in the winters and 95F in the summer (with extremes being possible)

I don't wanna spend a ton of money doing this and I would like to be able to do it myself as well, but I don't want it to just come off a few months/year later... I'd like it to be decent quality

Is using plastidip a good idea or should I save up and have a shop professionally wrap everything?

Furthermore work it work on the wheels as well, being the closest components to the ground?

Also will the rattle cans work with the primer or do I have to buy cans and use a sprayer?

Thanks

So my buddy texts me at 6am this morning advanced auto parts is going out of business. All paint is 40 percent off. If you have priced plastidipp you know red is 18$ a can. I got all these cans for about 4$ each. I will probably never use half of this but it will be on my shelf for future projects haha 🤣. I like using plastidip for rc car bodies because it's removable. If you damage the paint or just want a new color it's an easy thing to change it out.

I know this isn’t a conventional way to use plastidip but I want to change the color of my moldings. I’m renting so painting is out of the question and I want to be able to remove it without damaging the white painted wood moldings underneath

Does anyone have experience with this? Being able to spray over a molding and removing the plastidip without damaging it

Hey all, basically title.

1. Am I okay to spray over the course of two days?

2. I will be dipping in 50 degree weather, people told me that that is considered pretty cold and I will have to wait 2 hours after the first, light coat, and an hour for every coat thereafter. That just seems really excessive, or was I told wrong?

3. How long after dipping the car should I wait to drive it? 24 hours?

I am repainting a vespa that it's paint is tired and worn. It has more vibrant red in spart parts over others and there are areas that need body work so that means that I have to paint over body filler.

Am I supposed to prime the entire vespa a single color first or can I add sufficient coats of Plastidip? If so how many coats typically result in a complete color change no matter the color underneath?

Is hyperdip piano black the glossiest black these days? I don’t think I want to mess with 2k clear on top of a peelable coating.

Anyone have any idea?

Joined the "Mom Minivan Club" – Now Let's Pimp It!

• Tires Are Trash in Sludge: My minivan's all-weather tires are awful. Coming from a 4x4, my husband insists I need winter tires. Fine, Blizzaks it is.
• Wheel Hunt Woes:
  • Plan to swap OEM 18" wheels for 17".
  • Anything that won't look ridiculous on a minivan (IMHO) costs $400+ per wheel, so I’m embracing the "ugly as sin" Steelies instead. They’re cheap, and I’m owning it.
• Toddler's Dream Wheels:
  • My car-obsessed toddler would lose his mind over neon wheels. Blaze orange, green, yellow—maybe one color per wheel for fun!
  • Sadly, no blaze/neon blue (from DYC), but is "Flex Blue" close enough?
• DIY Paint Plans:
  • Heated pole barn = perfect workspace.
  • Painting wheels before mounting tires. Paint the whole wheel or just the face? Will mounting ruin the paint?
  • Thinking of a 2x crystal topcoat for durability—how removable is that if I want to repaint? (Don't mind having to use solvents and elbow grease and they're just steelies so not trying to keep them pristine)
• Plastidip vs. Metal Paints:
  • Have paint sprayers but worry about ruining them with Plastidip. Rattle cans safer?
  • Found glow-in-the-dark neon metal paints— I could strip and repaint later if I use those, right?
• Road Salt Reality: Northern Michigan uses road salt like it's free glitter at a kindergarten craft party. Best base and topcoat for protection?
• Being Extra:
  • Neon wheels COULD be just the start. Should I dip the badges? Trim? Grill? How much is too much?
  • No shame—just aiming for toddler joy and public laughs.
  • Goal is to embrace the ridiculous instead of looking serious about the aesthetic.
• Annual Glow-Up: Love the idea of switching colors yearly or stripping it all when over it.

So, Plastidip pros and car customizers: Help me pimp this minivan for toddler-approved chaos! All tips and roasts welcome. Let’s hear it!

Link to album of what the van looks like, the Steelies I am currently considering, a couple bad AI renderings of what I am going for (DAL-E couldn't wrap it's head around the Steelies despite being fed a picture of them!), and a couple black cars with neons (I could potentially do neon on only some portions of the wheels too).

I will ABSOLUTELY come back and share pictures of what I end up with if ya'll want the laughs.

l like dip for the rims but I think im gonna sand an spray the body . Not really happy with how it turned out. Has anyone painted with the gallon of dip an sprayer? How did it turn out?

I'm gonna be dipping my car for the 1st time after I get my taxes. I had my budget figured out, but then I realized the kit I wanted can't be bought in Cali, and when I assembled the Cali equivilent it was a decent chunk more $$$. Then, looking thru the site I saw the ultimate sprayer. Googling, there's absolutely nothing about it other than what's on DYC's site. I know people said G-Force was a noticable step up from the OG discontinued one. And while I'm reconsidering my budget, I'm wondering if that same OG to G-Force difference would apply here too.

I've seen a lot of pics and videos from 1st timers who got amazing looking results with the G-Force, obviously the Ultimate's better, but would it even matter for someone like me? It's a lot damn more cash, but if I'm going to do it and the Ultimate would make a real difference it could be worth considering. As they saying goes, buy once, cry once lol.

As the title says, my vehicle was professionally liquid wrapped and clear coated. I have 3 small rock chips right on the side of my vehicle that cut all the way down to the original paint beneath. I have extra paint from the shop. I cleaned the area and then used a q-tip and did 4/5 coats to fill the chip up. But now I have a blob of extra plasti-dip material?

What’s the best solution to removing that blob? I read for normal paints I can use a lacquer paint thinner? AI was telling me to use a degreaser? I’m also reading to use isopropyl alcohol and just scrub it down?

Tl;dr: Has anyone patched rock chips in their liquid wrap and how did they fix the blob of extra paint when filling the chip?

Not sure if this is even plasti dip but it feels and seems like it. Got these rims form someone else and never liked the dipped look. Trying to remove it with a pressure washer and wd-40, but it literally won’t budge at all. I can scrape it with my finger a bit but that’s it. The chemicals do absolutely nothing. Any advice?

Hey there,

I'm looking to paint my monitor with a glossy white colour using plastidip. I thought id use painters tape to cover the parts i dont want to spray, and use the spray can versions rather than tin versions.

1. For future reference, whats the formula difference between the spray can and tin versions? I thought i heard that the tin paint isnt thinned? Or is that referencing the spray can?

2. Differences betwen plastidip craft and all the other ones??

3. Top coat vs glossifier, and in which order do i apply them on the base coat if i need both?

4. What are the differences in the white colour for all the different products?

5. How much product to use/how many coats, and approx how many cans will i need of each product? (I'l just watch a tutorial for this one lol... although maybe plastic needs more or less coats than other materials??)

Any other tips or suggestions welcome. Thanks!!

Or will the air get into the paint or something?