Hey there,

I'm looking to paint my monitor with a glossy white colour using plastidip. I thought id use painters tape to cover the parts i dont want to spray, and use the spray can versions rather than tin versions.

1. For future reference, whats the formula difference between the spray can and tin versions? I thought i heard that the tin paint isnt thinned? Or is that referencing the spray can?

2. Differences betwen plastidip craft and all the other ones??

3. Top coat vs glossifier, and in which order do i apply them on the base coat if i need both?

4. What are the differences in the white colour for all the different products?

5. How much product to use/how many coats, and approx how many cans will i need of each product? (I'l just watch a tutorial for this one lol... although maybe plastic needs more or less coats than other materials??)

Any other tips or suggestions welcome. Thanks!!

Or will the air get into the paint or something?

Would plasti dip be useful for patching this rip on my leather chair i’ve tried taping it using some black tape but the tape just ends up peel would plasti dip work for this was looking for a affordable solution just don’t like seeing it ripped

I’ve done over 6 coats and I’m not on my 4th can yet. Do I really need to finish all 4 cans? It seems excessive because I would have to cover 10 coats to finish them all.

328i 2015

Gonna be PlastiDipping my car early next year. I was really interested in the Dip Armor and ceramic coating. But of course neither can be bought in Cali. So I thought maybe I'd find somebody in NV, pay them to order it and take a mini vacation to go pick it up.

I understand without the dip armor a ceramic coating won't work right, so I came up with a different idea but after Googling I didn't find anything. Has anyone used a non ceramic spray coating? Like Gyeon Wet Coat, CarPro Hydr02 or something else that's spray on spray off. I want to have some form of protection, even if I have to reapply it once a month.

Honestly i dont think I really understand what this product is for, but I was given a few cans of it. Would spraying this on hard plastic wheels make them roll quieter / give more traction on pavement?

I want to dip my car in one of those, I'm trying to copy BMW's Miami Blue. On DYC's product pages both look similar but the Intense seems like it might be closer. But Googling and watching some YT videos I'm not sure because I looked at a bunch of pics and watched some videos. And both look different in different videos and pics.

I doubt anyone has seen both in person, but maybe someone has. Or maybe someone has seen 1 and Miami Blue and can comment.

Hi all, New here. I have dipped emblems on 4 of my vehicles and wheels on 1. I am not new to dipping but I can’t seem to find the answer for this one.

Can I use clear plasti dip primer over black wheels and put violet metalizer directly on the plasti dip primer?

2nd question: Does anyone know why the violet metalizer seems to be discontinued?

Thinking of spraying a bus. Lots to cover and I'm wondering if I can shoot it with my existing equipment.

Choices are a serious business airless which can shoot elastomerics and high solids epoxies easily, it's about a $4500 sprayer and freshly rebuilt with new line and gun.

Or a decent hvlp, can run anywhere from 1.3 to 2.3mm tip and either gravity fed or a 1 gallon pressure pot.

So i was blacking out my ute and tried masking off the red parts so they wouldnt get sprayed. Upon removing the tape, it just took all the dip with it. Anyone know a fix?

I have a 2017 ford edge with 19’ aluminum wheels and I want to have them glossy black. I’ve been wanting to do it ever since I got my car but I had to go to college so I never got the chance until now. I want advice if I should use plastidip or hyperdip since I see that hyper dip is more professional looking but harder to apply and more expensive, and plastidip is much easier and cheaper but harder to get as good looking as hyperdip. I’m planning on also adding 2k gloss to whichever I choose. My thought is that while yeah plastidip won’t look as good compared to hyperdip, the 2k gloss will bring it much more up to par. My wheels have little imperfections but nothing big. Ive watched videos and such on the matter but haven’t been able to see much difference so I wanted peoples opinions. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

Photos Here: https://imgur.com/a/QNeEcpA

So after this post here (https://www.reddit.com/r/plastidip/comments/wxghi4/experience\_with\_jaydip\_100/), I want to share my experience with the same 'dipper'.

Unfortunately my ruddy ass didn't check reddit for feedback and I blindly followed his posts on instagram and his messages.

Scope of work was to dip 2 cars, full trim black out, dip on body.

Starting with Honda:

Scope of work: SOW was to paint the vehicle burnt copper, black dip on the wheels and black out/trim protect on all the trim pieces. The badges were to be removed and re-installed to maintain factory look. Hood deflector was pointed out by me, that will require removal and re-installation.

1. Badge: Initial commitment was to remove and re-install, then when I arrived there, I was handed the badges (Passport, Elite and AWD) and to order new ones.
2. Front deflector: Removed/broken "Bro, it was not saveable". No communication on breakage, I had to order replacement
3. Trim pieces not secured: Front L and Front R Wheel Arch, Rear L and Rear R Door trim pieces not secured(4) . I ordered 2x trims and clips.
4. Weather stripping not installed properly (All 4 doors): Lots of wind noise
5. Door plugs missing (25mm Honda) found 1 eventually. Had to order the other one.
6. Rear number plate (sandwich type) holder: Removed without checking with me, Bottom piece missing.
7. Front plate frame: Again replaced without checking with me. Thankfully was present in garage.
8. B Pillar scratched and gouged during removal/installation of weather strip.

Additional installation issues:

1. Both front door panels not installed correctly. Foam sticking out from both sides.
2. Door handles swapped between Rear L and Rear R. Door handles were sticky and not easy to operate. Misaligned. I had to open both door panels and swap the handles for proper operation.
3. Vapor Barrier and sound insulation damage on Driver's door.
4. Driver's door: Door actuator connector unplugged. Not locking/unlocking.
5. Pending item: Driver's door auto unlock not working. I am working to get the code reset.

Time spent by me/customer. ~ 2 hours on door issues. Additional 2 hours identifying parts to order.

Orders placed:

1. $66.44 for trim pieces
2. $406.60 for misc molding bits and weather stripping.
3. $183.97 for deflector, vapor seal and other parts.
4. Weather strip retainers: $15.16
5. B pillar panel cover trim: $25.97
6. Additional trim clips for replacement: $57.54

Total known expenditure so far: $755.68

2nd car: (Challenger)

Scope of work: Commitment was to remove the roof vinyl, trunk vinyl and side T/A vinyls. Then paint the wheels and paint body Titanium Silver with Holo shift. Trim was to be blacked out.

Change in Scope based on prior work: I requested for trim to not be painted looking at the damage done on the Honda. I did the trim myself at home. He said since the commitment was done at $2600, he cannot adjust the amount for the trim paint/black out. I did not accept or reject that statement, I was concerned about the quality of work.

We spoke over the phone of the quality of work done on the Honda and my concerns with the Challenger which is extremely special to me.

2. Ordered Removal drill and wheels for $275.76 at hisrequest. My understanding was that he is familiar with vinyl removal and have the experience/know how to do this based on presentation, and conversation.

Damage report:

He calls me in the middle of the week asking for money for an ongoing legal issue. (additional loan on work on top). This is after I have already paid him $4200 ($2600 + $1600)

I headed to him in the night and Car was picked up due to on-going legal issues/concerns to avoid delays. Only wheels were painted silver which are a $400 service item. Even then the wheel hubs were covered in overspray so a cheaper wheels on job.

1. Rear trunk paint is heavily damaged with multiple gouges raining from 1 to 3 inches in the paint that have exposed the bare metal. This needs immediate treatment to prevent rusting.
2. Front Bumper has a deep gouge in the paint that will need a fill, paint and polish. His comment was "Yeah I touched it with the wheel and it just came out". Which demonstrates lack of experience or expertise with vinyl removal.

$1600 was paid in advance for the Challenger.

Damage repair and vinyl removal estimate; $1,752 from a local body shop. This does not include any time spent and lost without vehicle in usable state.

Total known expenditure so far (Honda + Challenger): $2507.68.

Deal with him at your own risk! I am exploring small claims to get my money back.

I was planning to tape off this trim but with the rubber gasket, the tape line may not end up clean so I'm wondering if I'm good to just dip right over this?

I have paint peeling on my car, it hasn’t fully came off yet but it will soon. If I plasti dip my car matte black and just spray over it will it last and keep rust out until I can afford a proper repaint?

I plasti dipped my mirrors today and when I pulled the tape I got a tear in one of the mirrors.

Do I have to respray the whole thing to fix this? It takes a long time to prep these mirrors so overspray doesn’t hit my car.

Would a paint pen work? I don’t care about the chrome in the back, or I saw a method of spraying dip in a cup and then using a paint brush.

Any suggestions would be appreciated thank you guys

I’ve taped out my car emblem and have coated four times with plastidip. Would like to make glossy.

How long do I need to wait to apply glossifier? Should I add it while I am still taped out? Will it be just as easy to remove tape and excess after I apply the glossifier?

Thanks. Looks pretty cold so far

I'm new to this subreddit and I was wondering what was better between the regular black plastidip and the black shadow hyperdip for my Palisade's emblem. Also, I know is a matter of preference but I think I should aim for a glosssy look since the emblem at the front is already black and glossy. I have bought 6 cans of plastidip because I wanted to black everything out but for now I'm just starting with the emblems.

This is how it looks on the back and the front:

https://imgur.com/a/m2cTQEg

My options are:
Sell the 6 cans of plastidip on fb marketplace and buy the Hyperdip.
Buy the plastidip glossifier and use the plastidip I already have.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

How well does plasti dip stick to metal?

I am looking to do an oddball thing.

I am thinking plastidip on brass then put a special dissolvable stencil on the cured plasti dip. It would expose parts of the plastidip I would remove to reveal the brass beneath. Then dissolve the plastidip.

I would dissolve the stencil with washing soda and water. Anyone out there know if the plasti dip would stick on the metal if using washing soda/water to dissolve the stencil?

I've read the FAQ already on the part of what you can dip or not, but this specific use-case was not mentioned :)

I am planning to buy some already black car emblems and letters, but these are in very glossy black. I want to have them in a more matte/satin finish. So thinking of buying the Hyperdip shadow black, but since the emblems are already black, do I need to do anything special for these to come out as expected?

Has anyone tried plastidip for their ex pass. I’m wondering if it would work or interfere with function.