I need assistance in efficiently managing the connections for my personal gaming PC and my work laptop, which is used with a docking station. Currently, to switch between devices, I manually swap the Ethernet, HDMI/DisplayPort (for each monitor), and USB connections (for peripherals like a headset, mouse, and keyboard) between my PC and the docking station. I'm looking for a method to keep all devices connected to my PC and effortlessly switch control to my laptop with a simple action, possibly through some form of switch. Given the complexity of reconnecting multiple cables, I'm seeking advice, tips, or product recommendations to streamline this process.

Thank you in advance for any help!

So my PSU is a Cooler Master V850, which uses a 6 pin to 6+2 pin PCIe connector, I have wanted sleeved connectors for a while but I cannot find this type of connector anywhere, only 8 pins. Any help?

Hi,
Im stuck!

I have a loom of 3x Cat6 cables I have made and I need to protect them using braided sleeving.
These cables are for AV rental applications and often get buried in dance floors and are used in extreme Australian environments.
How do I thread the cable loom through a 100m of braided sleeving? Its driving me nuts, I have tried so many different things and its tedious at best.

TIA

I have 1 pc but both a desk and a simrig, I made a scheme to route all the cables and to have an overview later on.

Buy the $5 variety pack of heat shrink tube wraps from Harbor Freight. Buy the $5 Kapton "heat tape" from Amazon. Get a cheap heat gun or lighter.

I took one of the largest heat shrink tube size in the box (1/2" D x 2-7/8" L because anything smaller won't fit over the 2x5 pin HD Audio header) and I cut it to be 1-1/2" long. (This is important because by the end of this the heat shrink will be hard and risky to take off, so we want to make sure we don't have a stiffy blocking the case panel behind the motherboard from closing.) I wrapped my thumb and index finger in kapton tape. Then I slipped the heat shrink tube over the hd audio header and wires. I used kapton tape to cover the plastic HD Audio connector piece that the heat shrink didn't cover. Then I hit it with the heat gun for a minute, constantly turning the wire and with the heat shrink on it in order to heat and shrink it evenly. (Start on low and far away with the gun and gradually get closer. It's the same with the lighter, but if you screw up with the lighter you can easily melt the tube and harm the wires, which is why you should practice using heat shrink on a stick or pencil or something first.)

After it stops shrinking it will be very hot, which is why you need to protect your fingers by wrapping them with kapton tape before this step. I folded the plastic HD Audio connector wires (now covered in heat shrink) underneath the connector (bottom row is missing a pin; top row is not) as tightly as possible right where they stick out of the connector. At this point the plastic connector and the wires covered in heat shrink should be like a taco. I used a SCREW clamp (other types of clamps will likely put too much pressure and damage the wires, so just sandwich the "taco" in between a table and a book or something if you don't have that specific type of clamp) to apply enough pressure to hold it in place like a taco and let it sit for 10 minutes until the heat shrink tubing went from soft and hot to room temp and hard. Now the colored wires are covered in black heat shrink, which looks a lot cleaner with the blackout build!

Next to cover the bright white headers, I just bought some of the "100PCS Dupont Shell 2.54MM Double Row Dupont Cable Case Dupont Plug Dupont Connector Plastic Shell Jump Line Shell "

for $5 on Ali. (I haven't received these yet, but they should be the correct ones. I measured the HD Audio header with calipers and they are less than 1mm different from the measurements on the product page.) Select 2x5 pin to cover the usual headers, like for example on my board I have some unused USB headers to cover. This method covers most of the header when, although the very top might be visible. For me that thin white line looks ok in a blackout build,but if not you can put kapton tape around the header and pins and with a super fine model brush, paint the top of the header.

I would like to attach some stuff and whatever that tape is, is really heavy duty, I believe is 3M brand, but no clue the model type. Is not foam tape by the way. Thanks in advance for any help.

😭.

Hello!

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I bought a Corsair HX1000i power supply. In my Corsair 7000D case, unfortunately, the ATX (24PIN) cable just reaches the socket. Is there a longer cable of the same quality as the factory one? How would you solve it?

+ question. Is there a reliable 90 degree 24 pin adapter?

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Many people complain about fire damage in the case of cable extensions and adapters.

This is my first attempt at properly managing cables on my PC, does it look okay? Is there anything I could've done differently?

Corsair 4000D Airflow Case.

Paint marks are so I can know what cords are for what. I have a legend on the back panel

If I were to do it again, I'd get a sleeve for the cords routed through the velcro with the Corsair logo