Hello all!

I was looking to create a custom set of cables for my formd t1 build I'm starting. I've watched a few videos and have a decent understanding of what to do but i wanted to make sure i'm buying the right parts.

For the crimping tool, i icrimp sn-58b recommended in a post

cable vendor - i was going to use mainframecustoms i think. I was looking at either 16 or 18 gauge and the 2mm teleios sleeving, but i might need the 4?

I guess the main question is should i be using 16 or 18 for the sff build, and which is the right sleeving to use.

The second question would be for pwm/molex power, i saw theres the 8mm sleeving, that just looks like sleeving for 4 cables together? i think that would be clean for molex/pwm since i will be using an external rad and need to run 2 pwm's and a molex connector out there

Hey folks! I was just curious if the yellow wires are power and if the black wires are ground? That's all I need. Thanks!

Since the other thread is old and some things are unclear, I decided to make this post.

Wiring recommendation: 4 core USB cable with shielding, 26 AWG which has an OUTER DIAMETER of 3.4mm

5/10M UL2547 Shielded Wire 30 28 26 24 22 20 18 AWG Channel Audio 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Cores Headphone Control Copper Signal Cable from Ammax Franchise Store on AliEx.

Paracord recommendation: 5mm paracord which is hard to find but is guaranteed to fit the thick 26 AWG cable. Message Playking Outdoor Equipment Flagship Store on AliEx since they advertise that you can buy 5mm paracord if you message them.

I cannot recommend 4mm paracord since I have seen multiple reviews from people that weren't able to get 4mm paracord sleeving onto even thinner 28 AWG cable (the way gauge works is higher number thinner cable, lower number thicker cable). However, it's possible that some 4mm paracord can work with 28 AWG, which would make for a thinner cable. I have not seen 30 AWG being recommend for USB cable wiring. I am not sure if wiring that thin would be adequate enough for certain use cases, so if you want to go that route, talk to some people who know electronics.

USB-A Connector recommendation:
5sets USB 2.0 Type A Welding Type Male Plug Gold Plated or Nickel Plated Connectors usb-A Tail Socket 3 in 1 DIY Adapter from Lingxun E2-Online Store on AliEx. Choose one of the 4 pin options (the purple, the white "gold plated", or the white "nickel plated"). DO NOT CHOOSE THE 5 PIN/CONTACT ONES OR THE FREE WELDED ONES.

USB-C connector recommendation:
Original 10Set USB 3.1 Type-C / Type C Plug Double-sided plug for OTG data transmission Charging Connector for OD 3.0mm2 Cable from Lingxun E2-Online Store on AliEx. Again, choose one of the 4 pin options: "4P data nickel" or "4P data gold." If you look in the product page description it says: " 4P: data transmission with 56K resistance" Having that 56kohm resistor is very important in terms of certain devices getting appropriate power delivery. (I forget which is true, but without that resistor some devices will get either too much or too little power. If you want to know more you can google it.)

Video tutorial recommendation:

Learn how to make your own custom USB Cable (DIY build guide) from Youtube channel "FIZO" which was uploaded on **Jan 14, 2021. (**Youtube search is so bad now that sometimes the only way to find videos is to know the channel and the upload date and scrolling through all the uploads until you can find that one video.)

BONUS Quick disconnect recommendation: Aviator cable disconnects suck because they make you unscrew them. It's all about YC8 quick disconnects that you can just push-pull and they come apart or go back together immediately. Obviously you need the 4 pin version since the whole cable here is 4 pin. You can find them for the lowest price on AliEx. In the case of a straight black one, they are sold out on AliEx, but Etsy has them for slightly higher price.

Now it should be noted that I have not received these parts yet. I just wanted to improve the old guide which recommended unshielded usb cable, which some users report random issues with. (Not sure if those issues are due to lack of shielding, but since there was no price difference between shielded and unshielded cable, why not avoid some potential problems?) Also it was unclear if the usb-c connector linked previously had the 56kohm resistor, but we know this one does for sure. If anything goes wrong with any of these parts, I will update this post immediately.

If mods want to allow it, I can comment with the links to all this stuff.

Hope this helps save other people some time. Any constructive criticism is appreciated.

Thank you.

Everywhere I see 4mm paracord, but I'm assuming that's the outer diameter. So trying to insert a 3.4mm cable into that might be cutting it close. What do you all think? Thank you.

I'm ordering sleeving and heatshrink from MDPC, but trying to find everything else is proving difficult. Apparently Zapcables is out of business, and Dogemods site isn't up any more.

I've searched every old reddit thread that google could find on the topic, but i have no idea where people buy supplies these days.

Here is a 4 year old thread with someone asking questions about parts, https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/exbzus/want_to_try_making_my_own_usb_cables_do_i_have/

I want the usb-a and usb-c connectors to look the same color.
I want decent dedicated usb wiring (rather than combining individual wires) , shielded or whatever so no humming.

Depending on thickness of wiring, I can choose sleeving.
I'm keeping it simple at first, so no quick disconnect for now.

The parts should just be ok-ish quality since I'm sure I will make mistakes.

Thank you.

I talked to titan rig support and they said they are not sure if it will work for that.
https://www.cable-sleeving.com/atx-pin-remover

Thanks.

For headphones, I'm looking for a shielded wire with two signal wires in the middle and the ground is the layer of copper surrounding those, like this: https://mdrelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/3860.jpg I would like it to be soft and malleable instead of stiff.

For the fan cables, I'm going to do the 4 wires in 1 sheath. I'm trying to find wire with a good thickness of insulation for 4 wires in this paracord. https://atwoodrope.com/products/300-paracord-2mm-black

Thank you! Looking forwards to finally getting started.

If I have a power cable and want to extend it by 15cm and I'm creating new cables myself would I be correct in thinking I can do it one cable at a time, disconnect from side a, put my new cable in side a, disconnect old cable from side b and put my new cable in side b, then rinse and repeat with all the cables, then I don't need a wiring diagram as I replace as I go along... It's hdplex 250w and I do have a wiring diagram, just can't find a Dr power II to check the work.

Hello.

​

Several customers have been requesting me to make 12vhpwr custom cables for them. But after reading several news on the melting issue of the connectors provided by the manufacturing company, I almost shut myself off from making 12vhpwr cable. Then again, with the changing technology, I have to move on.

One of the customers today sent me a 12vhpwr adapter cable provided by the gpu vendor. here is the
picture of it - https://i.postimg.cc/4NtFV2VB/20240410-050048.jpg

​

I don't know where to start from but I have all the materials needed to make the cable. Is there any step by step guideline for this ? or any video tutorial? Any suggestions would help my works.

​

Thanks in advance

Iori

​

Hello I wanna figure out the sata pinout for this psu. I want to make more data cables for the psu and I have an original data that came with it. Any easy way to figure it out?

​

picture of my psu for reference (super flower leadex vii 1000w)

Hi all,

I'm wanting to make a custom set of cables for my PSU as nowhere seems to sell a premade set and I like the idea of making my own cables.

I'm still in the research phase but struggling to find info regarding PSU side connector housing.

From my research all motherboards use the same housing / pinout but the PSU side differs from model to model. Is there somewhere that sells housings for each brand or will any 8-pin housing fit in the psu side?

Im specifically looking for 8-pin housing that will suit my super flower leadex vii.

Does a connector like this exist or am I best of making extensions?

Thanks!

Mdpc one is $30. Is there something between $0 (using staples) and $30 that's worth it?

Thank you.

I need 2 6 pin male (to PSU) to 8 pin male CPU cable. Looks like I need to custom make this to get a clean look or have a frankensten of 3-4 cables. I rather the clean look. Is there any where I can get this done online?

Corsair's amazing premium PSU cables are 2mm (I think, the battery in my calipers just died), but all cable combs are for 3mm, so regular combs are very lose, and I don't like Corsair's block shaped locking combs. I probably need open ended combs since I don't have the tools to pull the pins out and recrimp the wires yet. To complicate things, I NEED A 6 SLOT COMB (3 or 4 of them) for the 12 pin GPU cable. Do I have to get them 3D printed or what? (please let me know if you can do it)

Thank you.

Looking at the 24pin motherboard cable pinout for ASUS PSUs there appears to be 3 different +12v wires required on the PSU side (one +12v and one 2-cable +12v = 3 +12v) but only two +12v pins on the PSU side. As I've heard ASUS shares a pinout with Seasonic I tried to look up their diagram for clarification, but this pinout would seem to suggest that I should connect the 2-cable +12v to a +5v and +3.3v pin?

I'm very confused and anxious about fucking up, any guidance would be greatly appreciated :)

First things first: why not solder? Well, it takes time to wait for your soldering iron to warm up. I takes time to neatly wrap one wire to the other. And the resulting connection can become brittle if the wire is moved around. There's also en environmental factor, because if the cables are trashed, lead could end up in the environment.

The trick to super easy split wires is to use DJ453 terminals. Some people use molex terminals with the front part of it clipped off, but these DJ453 terminals are easier to handle, don't require any modification and offer twice as much connected surface area between the two wires.

​

https://preview.redd.it/la9azonav3rc1.jpg?width=1318&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9affb68864ed649f78862166bfd9204127cbd6ef

​

I bought a 1000pack, so I won't need to worry about soldering psu wires anytime soon.

​

Now on to how you should use these.

Step 1, same as a soldered split: strip your cables. The secondary wire is easy: just pull of the end of the insulation. For the primary wire, you will need to carefully cut out a section of the insulation. Make two round cuts at the ends of the section you wish to remove, then score a line along the length of the insulation and it'll easily pop off.

https://preview.redd.it/f6z2h4pgw3rc1.jpg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=772c6a1931787b15c437722d353985c36fa7a7dd

Step 2: Terminal into crimper. Crimp only to the first ratchet click. Should leave enough room to insert the primary wire through the opening. Then add the secondary wire and line it up like so:

​

https://preview.redd.it/eiay3v27y3rc1.jpg?width=1565&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7fa42c4a1aa290c0e340934ca4e65d9f0b2abbc

Step 3: now crimp both sides of the terminal.

​

https://preview.redd.it/3rdub239y3rc1.jpg?width=1805&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e38a4a139546762210642fd09be5034af325c48

Step 4: melt your sleeve completely over the terminal from the side with only 1 wire

​

https://preview.redd.it/rdfvlkmay3rc1.jpg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed126e8ab5280328ed0b6cfa18b60687471f9722

Step 5: add sleevin to the double wired side and use a pretty long piece of heatshrink to melt the three pieces of sleeving together.

​

https://preview.redd.it/ynu3u5yey3rc1.jpg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dd5f9cb96397f1b878b725ffc0b8d46c9370e65b

​

I'm just using transparent heatshrink for demonstrative purposes.

​

Normally I leave the black heatshrink over this, but now I've cut away the heatshrink to show the three sleeves having molten together as one.

Step 6: Your split is done. Now is the time to add terminals to all three ends of this split wire.

So this is my first time trying to make any cables. From making a couple posts and comments recently I've gathered that the correct size sleeving for doing individually wired fan cables is 2mm. I'm guessing that means 2mm total, so the opening would be what... half that?

Next, I'm trying to figure out the correct wiring thickness to run in the individual 2mm sleeves. I've been told 28-22 awg, but does awg account for differences in thickness of the insulation? Also how should I choose in that range between 22 and 28... I don't want the wire to be loose in the cable, but I also don't want to have a hard time pulling the sleeve over the wire (or however you do it). Any advice for what wire to buy for this 2mm sleeving (https://atwoodrope.com/products/300-paracord-2mm-black)? (The wires in the fan cables I have in front of me measure 0.8mm for Arctic and 0.9mm for Noctua. And here is an AWG wire size chart https://shopdelta.eu/awg_l2_aid938.html) I was thinking maybe 22 AWG which is .64mm)

With that out of the way, what crimper does everyone use? I saw a comment saying SN-28B\48B\CTX3 are not good, and that they use Hozan P707 at least partially because they have to re-do fewer crimps. But how much of a pain is it to try to crimp with cheaper ones? Are there any recommended ones that aren't $50? (I'm looking to start making other cables too after the fan cables, so maybe it would be worth it?)

Fan cables are just the start, so I need to know what size sleeving and wires I would need for making-data usb to usb c cables, 3.5mm jack headphone cables, and type5 PSU cables? (I probably don't want to entirely make my own PSU cables since that's too advanced right now, but it would be sick to replace 2-3 of the wires with a different color other than black, maybe like charcoal)

Lastly, please tell me where you all buy the stuff. If I know everything up front I can make good decisions to buy a bunch of stuff at once and hopefully save on shipping.

If we get some good answers, we can use this thread to write up a rough guide for the noobs like me. Or if there is another guide already then we can just draw more attention to that.

Thank you!

So this is my first time trying to make any cables. From making a couple posts and comments recently I've gathered that the correct size sleeving for individual wire fan cables is 2mm. I'm guessing that means 2mm total, so the opening would be what... half that?

Next, I'm trying to figure out the correct wiring thickness to run in the individual 2mm sleeves. I've been told 28-22 awg, but does awg account for differences in thickness of the insulation? Also how should I choose in that range between 22 and 28... I don't want the wire to be loose in the cable, but I also don't want to have a hard time pulling the sleeve over the wire (or however you do it). Any advice for what wire to buy for this 2mm sleeving (https://atwoodrope.com/products/300-paracord-2mm-black)? (The wires in the fan cables I have in front of me measure 0.8mm for Arctic and 0.9mm for Noctua. And here is an AWG wire size chart https://shopdelta.eu/awg_l2_aid938.html) I was thinking maybe 22 AWG which is .64mm)

With that out of the way, what crimper does everyone use? I saw a comment saying SN-28B\48B\CTX3 are not good, and that they use Hozan P707 at least partially because they have to re-do fewer crimps. But how much of a pain is it to try to crimp with cheaper ones? Are there any recommended ones that aren't $50? (I'm looking to start making other cables too after the fan cables, so maybe it would be worth it?)

Fan cables are just the start, so I need to know what size sleeving and wires I would need for making-data usb to usb c cables, 3.5mm jack headphone cables, and type5 PSU cables? (I probably don't want to entirely make my own PSU cables since that's too advanced right now, but it would be sick to replace 2-3 of the wires with a different color other than black, maybe like charcoal)

Lastly, please tell me where you all buy the stuff. If I know everything up front I can make good decisions to buy a bunch of stuff at once and hopefully save on shipping.

If we get some good answers, we can use this thread to write up a rough guide for the noobs like me. Or if there is another guide already then we can just draw more attention to that.

Thank you!

I hope this is a valid question for this forum. I purchased my first custom cables and got them today. I read somewhere to give it an inspection and tug test on each cable to make sure they are securely in the connector.

They are secure but I do notice a few pins are able to move back/forth inside the connector just a tiny bit. I can visible see the pin inside the connector move ever so slightly. Is this something to be concerned about? Or is this normal.

I understand there are wings in the pins that open when you push them in the connector. These wings prevent the cables from coming out. But I assume there is some tolerance so you can push it past that point. And that is what I'm witnessing?

I will definitely check the stock cables to see if they do the same when I install these cables. But I wanted to ask the question ahead of time anyway.

Thank you

Are you using the stock PSU cables and tracing the wires or are there any more reliable methods? How would the multimeter come into play? Are you just using it to test continuity from component end to PSU end? Or are you testing the PSU itself to see what each pin is outputting? I’m brand new at sleeving

​

I recently purchased a Corsair premium 12vhpwr cable to go with Corsair SF850L PSU. The cable has two different sizes of similar high quality black "paracord" sleeves - one size for the 12 pin GPU cables, and another size for the 2 sense pin wires. I'm especially interested in this smaller sleeving because I want to match some custom fan cables.

Thank you.