Hi all,

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I just built my new PC, inside of the NZXT Flow H7 case. I am currently still looking for a led strip to put inside the case, so you are able to see through the dark tinted glass.

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The motherboard is a ASROCK B650M Pro RS Wifi, which seems to be able to address a ledstrip, but I am not sure. What would be a good option to put inside the case and make one surrounding square at the glass side, to be addressed from within the pc?

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Thanks in advance!

Got an great local deal on a custom painted Louqe Raw S1. Wasn't a fan of the paint theme and quality the original owner did, so I decided to strip it and prepare it for a custom build for my son. I had the intentions of painting it to match a TMNT theme (son asked for it) but I'm really digging the "cyber truck metal" look. I spent many hours stripping, sanding, and filing to get all the original white paint off and I don't really want to do that again HAHA.

What do you guys think? Leave it alone and put some TMNT vinyl's on for my son, or just completely custom paint?

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https://preview.redd.it/4nv1mei0ug4c1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=984ce0c869debcb20d375f38479fe2d736bf7e36

https://preview.redd.it/ps700hi0ug4c1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=536253a55890788b93671c9460ee11bfcfc1c1b3

https://preview.redd.it/l1wa9gi0ug4c1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=51946b0063cb0c3bb472ac17d59c09e435f176f4

https://preview.redd.it/0j3ikei0ug4c1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e94f9fb39d1a35830494ab63faab65b94f8ed00

https://preview.redd.it/pyamahi0ug4c1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=51f041cd4e451488f20ba86aac449244a36a3a53

Hello! Can someone link me a good adapter to purchase so I can play my switch on my hp all in one desktop? It has an output instead of an Input so my Nintendo Switch is not casting on my desktop screen. Thank you in advance!

Hi,

Not sure where to start and apparently I am not allowed to post this to r/PrintedCircuitBoard

I have no experience in PCB design or 3D printing and do not know current costs involved.

Any advice is appreciated.

I have a 19 year old modular CM Stacker STC-T01 ATX tower case, that is great in every aspect with the glaring exception of the front IO panel being seriously outdated. I'm trying to breathe new life into one of the best full size workstation tower cases ever made.

Four years ago I tried contacting Coolermaster about an upgrade without much luck.

https://old.reddit.com/r/coolermaster/comments/diffsd/is_an_upgraded_525_front_io_panel_available_for/

I'd prefer to keep the design of the front 5.25" IO panel intact if possible, keeping power buttons + LED, headphone, and mic ports intact. This means 3D printing a replica that fits a custom PCB updated for newer USB standards.

The main change is upgrading USB 2.0 ports to USB-A 3.2 and omitting firewire port and replacing it possibly with 1-2 USB-C ports.

Original IO panel (front)

https://archive.is/Gcmt9/6d0cb76b6d1691112834860e3680bb1c848bb6b9.jpg
https://archive.is/S7otv/692010723b947c138f140fe8bc7e11212e1ab190.jpg
https://archive.is/IqzUO/a005396ae3e7545282288354cbd66cf4433fc91d.JPG

Original IO panel (rear)
made up of two separate PCB

• PCB left - contains power, power reset, and LED light.
• PCB right - contains 1394 firewire, headphone, mic, and USB 2.0 ports

https://archive.is/IqzUO/c38df182d264d0f6b3a2743cacacc2b1b995a1bc.JPG
https://archive.is/IqzUO/004ccc769316dfb1854e7c3be870aa6ec193b7bc.JPG
https://archive.is/IqzUO/b66086db2c584902cd610b471a5101dd80ce8d18.JPG

Original front IO panel specs:

• 6 - USB-A 2.0 ports
• 1 - headphone jack
• 1 - mic jack
• 1 - firewire port
• 1 - PC reset button
• 1 - PC power button
• 1 - PC power LED
• 1 - PC HDD LED

An enterprising soul had a similar idea about 10-15 years ago and set about with a crude mod upgrade. Documentation of that mod is archived here.

https://archive.is/IqzUO

So, as you can see here I built a little control box (its a long story, but I want to control a pc behind a bookshelf, and this will allow me to turn it on and off/restart it without needing to climb behind the bookshelf). The two switches I have installed should allow for turning in the system, and rebooting, however I can get the LEDs to power on, but I can't get the reboot or restart function to work. I know I have wired it correctly because if I short the pins on the wires the system will power on/reboot.
I am using the wiring diagram found here. I have tried a few different connection placements on the switches but none seem to work. Any help would be great.

Thank you,.

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https://preview.redd.it/bdb5jvawwa4c1.jpg?width=717&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0b8311f388210839525b37b5073249ca82ea1e3

Each power and HD activity LED works (HD is off in this pic)

Power/reboot function work if I short the pins here with a paperclip..

So I was wondering if I could put a light switch as a power button. If I'm not wrong a light switch is a transistor so it lets a current constantly flow through it when its flipped on, and a power button doesn't so I feel like that'd be an issue. I was hoping I could actually attach cables to the light switch to make it work. But the only other way I see it working with out doing that is putting a small power button behind the switch and a little plastic piece behind the switch so when you flip it it hits the power button. So if you have any advice on what to do that'd be helpful.

Acer Nitro N50 upgrade

I have a Acer nitro N50 desktop with a 1660 super

I'm looking to upgrade it as well as put it into a large case for more efficient coolant and room for more upgrade.

My question is does anyone know what components would need replacing to allow it to be transferred into a new case

I know that the motherboard is proprietary but unsure if anything else is

THANKS

Hello, I'm currently thinking about making a custom acrylic side panel for my PC, and I was wondering if using magnetic tape to mount the custom side panel could cause any harm to the internals.

Is it safe to use or am I risking corrupting the drives or anything?

Thank you in advance for the replies and help.

Would someone possibly help me get a DIMM DDR4 to DDR5 adapter, I spent too much to get new ram just to use the RTX 40 series.

I use an Xbox controller and have the computer connected to the TV in the next room with a 50 HDMI cord but when I sit on this couch to play, my controller has connection issues.

Does anyone make this adapter or would i need to make my own? I want to use my old dell vista case, but build a modern PC inside. I am a newbie so i am trying to learn the best approach. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a spare mini pc lying around after using it for about a year with an eGPU before now replacing it with a gaming pc I built. Like the title says, I want to remove the internals of my beelink Ser6 Pro and install them into a small form factor pc case like the Fractal Ridge. There are two big questions I have with this idea aside from just “Is this reasonably possible?”.

1: I have the Ser6 pro with a Ryzen 7 6800h CPU. Are there consumer cooling solutions that might work for this cpu? Any simple mods I can make to adapt something like an AIO work for this CPU?

2: I would plan to use an M.2 Key to PCIE in order to incorporate a GPU. Is there any reason I couldn’t also use a gpu riser with an m.2 Key like this?

If anyone has any reference material I could check out of a build similar to this it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance

Is it possible to wire a power button like this to the arcade box console If so can some one tell me the process

Trying to get happy with my minimal visible cable build and I'm down to the last 3 visible cables.

24 Pin ATX, USB 3.2 Gen 1 (20 pin), and USB 3.2 Gen2x2 (Type E). The 24 pin power and the 20 pin USB are easy, there's tons of good looking 90 degree adapters that will look like a natural part of my case. The type E port though is proving more challenging. Moddiy has one, but it's just a bare PCB with no shroud, so not able to be smoothly hidden. another option could be like the ASRock extension cable from their Taichi X570 boards, but the less cable to hide the better.

Anybody find any good options for this?

Had this screen laying around for years. It's finaly useful <3

Hi! So, the power button on my case isn't working properly, and I wanted to try to replace it. I accidentally bought some capacitative switches instead of buttons, and I'm wondering if I can do anything with them to make them work.

Thank you!

Hi all, I have an old Silverstone Temjin Series TJ-11 and I have always wanted to mount a closed loop to the rear of the case. The issue is that back panel is empty and doesn't have fans mounts. Does anyone know of a service (website) that does custom mods on old preowned chassis'?

I have a lot of bad experiences with glass side panels. I desperately needed to upgrade my PC case and Microcenter had a beautiful Corsair ICUE 4000X on clearance for $50.

The catch: No screws (which I didn't care about), and a glass side panel.

For perspective, I have a 5950x and a 3080ti. I've been using a cheap $30 case ever since I had to retire my NZXT Phantom 530 and my PC has been overheating ever since. I CAAAN spent like $200 on a beautiful new case that doesn't have a glass side panel but that wouldn't be very financially responsible for me.

So I'm stuck with this. I want to modify the side panel to make sure that when it does inevitably shatter, it won't create a huge mess and result in me stepping on glass. I'm wondering if anybody has tried applying anti-shatter films to their side panels and how successful its been.

The Zotac RTX 4060 fan is pretty loud, but is the perfect card for my K39 SFF PC. Has anyone tried replacing the single fan Zotac Rtx 4060 GPU with a quieter fan?

I recently got my hands on an RX5600XT, and I'm thinking of using it as a base for swapping fans and reshrouding, kind of like a normal deshroud just without a ziptie and hopefully a bit better looking? Maybe.

So I took the card apart and the heatsink fins are 88mm wide and 235mm long. I'm a bit torn between using 92mm fans or 80mm fans. Would it be better to use a 92*276 with a lot of the airflow "leaking", or a 80*240 that doesn't fully cover the width of the heatsink?

I recall an old r/sffpc post about how most of the pressure and airflow is generated at the fan blade tips, but have never tested this myself. Also Arctic only makes P8s but not P9s, which means I would have to find an alternative 92mm fan.

Also, is it better to have the fans pressed flush against the heatsink, or have a bit of clearance (like 5 to 10mm)