/r/buildapc
Planning on building a computer but need some advice? This is the place to ask!
/r/buildapc is a community-driven subreddit dedicated to custom PC assembly. Anyone is welcome to seek the input of our helpful community as they piece together their desktop.
Please keep in mind that we are here to help you build a computer, not to build it for you.
Choosing Parts/Components:
The Build:
After Building:
/r/buildapc
I'm planning a new build and really struggling to figure out which is the best CPU to go for.
Here's details about my use cases and build requirements.
Use Cases
Build Requirements
(Things I want the new build to feature)
I'm seeing lots of recommendations on CPUs for gaming, and lots for productivity, but not much for CPUs for both.
I understand there will always be sacrifice, but I'm trying to figure out what would be the best option that will give me significant increase in both use cases over my current i7-12700K, and that can support 128GB DDR5 without issue.
Any tips, help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Samsung 980 pro M.2 NVMe SSD no heatsink - £159
Samsung 980 pro M.2 NVMe SSD with heatsink - £151
I'm confused because I assumed heatsink would always be more expensive. Are these different in some way I'm not recognising? The mobo I'm getting has 3 slots and I'm pretty sure there's room for a heatsink, so, any reason not to get the heatsink version?
I'm looking for a monitor both for gaming and productivity (mostly shell work, coding and Excel). So, a Mini-LED VA monitor seems the right choice, as it come close to OLED without its drawbacks and isn't affected by blooming the same way as IPS. 27 inches is the correct size for my desk (31.5 inches / 80 cm depth). 1440p should be fine as it will be paired with a RTX 4070 Super.
After reading a lot of reviews, the Cooler Master Tempest GP2711 and the AOC Gaming Q27G3XMN seems the best the market has to offer without breaking the bank. They are both on the same price range with the GP2711 costing like 50€ more.
The main differences between the two, as far as I understand, is that the Q27G3XMN has an higher contrast and faster response times while the the GP2711 is brighter and more colorful.
The Cooler Master comes with KVM while the AOC doesn't, and this is a feature that worth to consider as I use, almost always, a secondary monitor while working with my notebooks.
The slow response times of the GP2711, compared to the Q27G3XMN, seems the major concern of all the review I have seen around.
Now, I'm no competitive gamer, as I plays RPG (BG3) and Grand Strategy (Paradox's games) games so the slow response times shouldn't affect me. So, I'm more directed towards the Cooler Master Tempest GP2711.
which one would you pick?
Type | Item | Price |
---|---|---|
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor | €208.90 @ Switch Technology |
CPU Cooler | Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler | - |
Motherboard | Gigabyte B650 EAGLE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard | €170.76 @ PC Componentes |
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory | €129.99 @ Corsair |
Storage | Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive | €170.90 @ Império Multimédia |
Video Card | XFX Speedster QICK 319 Core Radeon RX 6750 XT 12 GB Video Card | €399.90 @ PCDIGA |
Case | Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case | €101.80 @ Switch Technology |
Power Supply | be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | €131.67 @ PC Componentes |
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts | ||
Total | €1313.92 | |
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-10-29 12:25 WET+0000 |
1050 ti zotac mini. The watt usage stays on 35 on idle no matter what. Utitliziaton in task manager is 0%. Temp 42c. 1303 mhz idle
Any clue what the problem is
Hello, it’s been a while since I’ve built a PC. Can I use f4-3600c18d-16gtzr on the Asus TUF B450 Gaming Plus motherboard with the AMD Ryzen 3800x? Will there be any performance issues?
I’m currently building my pc and just learned about reverse fans on cases. The case in question is Lian Li O11D EVO RGB E-ATX gaming dual chamber case - ARGB lighting strips - Up to 420mm radiator - Cable management - Front and side tempered glass panels - Reversible chassis And my cpu cooler is a Lian-Li HydroShift LCD 360TL. So how many reverse fans do I need??
I'm in the market to build my first pc *ever* by end of this year. I'll use it to game primarily and maybe continue my dream of game dev + front end dev. I planned this build with a max budget of $700 (converted from PHP), and with future upgradability in mind.
Parts list here:
|| || ||Part|Price| |CPU|Ryzen 7 5700g|$150.00| |MOBO|Gigabyte B550M K|$84.00| |RAM|Teamgroup T-Force Dark ZA 16GB KIT (2X8GB) DDR4 3600MHZ|$40.00| |Storage|Kingston NV2|$49.00| |GPU|GIGABYTE GAMING RTX 2080|$209.00| |PSU|Darkflash GP650|$23.00|
To explain my choice of APU/GPU:
I'm choosing the 5700g 'cause I don't plan on immediately buying the GPU
The 2080 on the other hand is just cause I found a pretty good deal on FB marketplace. Assuming no one else snags it before I do, I think it's a pretty decent choice.
For games, the one I want to try is BG3 and then some modern MMOs. As far as dev stuff goes, it's really a second priority since I don't work with big data (yet) for my data analysis and I intend on dev-ing simple 2D games.
With that, I wanna know what alternatives I have for the APU/MOBO so that I can use at least AM5 (for even more upgradability). I'm aware that I should also consider DDR5 RAM for AM5, so I don't mind going over 20-30% of the $600 budget but please let me know how much more it'll cost me. Also, would there be any bottleneck if I still use the 2080?
Thanks in advance guys. Let me know if you want any clarifications with the build. My mind is over the place right now.
.
For a Ryzen 7900X, I can get either:
According to benchmarks, the Aorus performs better, and 200 is half-again as much as 130. Should I go for it?
To clarify, what are the odds that a motherboard that has presumably worked before will fail more than a month after you receive it? Will any defects be immediately obvious, as with RAM?
Can you install multiple programs that require restarting the system and then click "No, I will restart this computer later" on all of them. Then do one restart for all the programs? Because I installed some Microsoft c++ updates on Avast updater and they required restart but I installed VLC player after and then I restarted. Will this mess up the updates and I should reinstall windows? Or is it fine and nothing will happen and there won't be system/registry errors because of this?
i have recently had a pc from memorypc, but i still have issues to set it up perfectly. in a nutshell, i set all my fans (cpu and case) at 550/600 rpm, so they do not make a noise. is 60/65c while gaming is good ? do i have to set them at higher speed for cpu health ?
btw, i don’t know if components will help, but there they are : mobo tuf b650 plus tuf 4070tis ryzen 7 7800x3d
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/LfjMfy
I've ordered every part on this list to build my pc and I'm wondering what else do I need or would make my life easier when building it (it's my first pc). For example do I need to buy some cables such as display port cables or will the one hdmi cable I have be enough? Is there anything I should get to make it easier such as certain tools or power supply extensions/splitters?
Also I've already bought some thermal paste with a small spatula
Hi everyone how do I uninstall windows 11 from my SSD. Every time I try too it says I don't have permission to do it
I've recently noticed that my PC isn’t delivering the FPS I’d like for some of the games I’m currently playing (CS2, TF2).
Here are my current specs:
After doing some research, one of the possible upgrade paths I’ve identified includes:
Currently, my PC struggles to maintain a stable 165 FPS. My question is: would it be worth upgrading this setup for around $500, or would it be better to sell my current rig and invest in a new one for around $1500?
Also, I’d like to know what kind of FPS increase I might expect after this upgrade. Thanks for your time and feedback!
I wasn't sure where to post this. I figured that I'd try here since I've generally seen pretty helpful posts here before.
So, I built my PC nearly 6 years ago. I've had absolutely no issues with it until suddenly a few days ago when it just won't turn on anymore at all. I press the power button - nothing happens. When I turn on the PSU the motherboard power led will either flash for a bit then stay on. Other times it will just stay on. However after maybe a few minutes the light will get very dark. To the point where it almost looks red, [it's an orange led]. Back when my PC was working fine it would be a very bright illuminated orange.
The system still seems to have power flowing through it since I can still turn on my Xbox controller along with being able to charge my phone through my PC. I was originally thinking that it might be my case's power button however I don't think that that would explain why the mobo's power led is acting like this. After googling for a bit some sites state that if a PC won't turn on that it may be due to things like the cmos battery being dead. Then if that's not the issue possibly various PC parts like drives/ram, etc. After that it said that it could be that the power supply may be dead.
My problem is that the PC just won't turn on at all. It's not like something flashes for a moment like some other posts have stated. It's just nothing. Would that just be a dead power supply rather than anything else? I figured that if it was the PSU that died that it wouldn't get ANY power going through the system. My PSU is Corsair TX 750M Gold+. I had to replace my old one at the end of 2021 when I moved countries. So, this PSU is only 3 years old.
Any help would be hugely appreciated. I've been very anxious trying to figure out what the problem might be.
I'd like to retire my old AOC 2367 monitor. Although it was cheap and has served me well, it was never a higher-end display and I'd never watch movies on it, knowing my TV was far better.
Ever since being granted the funds through my workplace to replace it with a monitor of up to $1K CDN (I'm in Canada), I've been scouring reviews, especially those of RTINGS.com which are in-depth and honest.
My requirements are;
It'd be used 50% for work (static pages), 20% for web-browsing, 20% for movies, and 10% for hockey viewing. This will all be in a lightly lighted area and no sunlight. I'd estimate the monitor would be used about on average 14h/day.
The core issue seems to be that I have to pick between;
... hence the frustration. I'd love to have my cake and eat it too but it seems to be a Sophie's choice scenario instead.
The MSI 321UPX is the monitor I was aiming for. Its PQ is outstanding and it ticked all the boxes... until I learned about OLED's burn-in. I'd need to perform some 5-min long pixel refreshing cycle every 4h or 8h and really keep an eye on potential burn-in. Even though the monitor has a 3-year warranty for it, I wonder how much of a struggle it would be to *prove* burn-in and have the monitor exchanged if/when it occurs.
I will say that I've taken some steps already to make things gentler on my eyes such as using a dark theme for everything (including at work) in Windows. Plus, I don't need a ton of brightness, seeing as how my eyes are sensitive and I prefer to have a gentler level of brightness so I wouldn't be surprised if I turned the brightness down 50% after unboxing it. That, coupled with a black screen-saver or having Windows turn the monitor on standby when no use has been detected for 5 min should mitigate the burn-in. And also using the pixel refreshing cycle religiously.
However, I then encountered this video, detailing the burn-in progress for the 321URX (identical panel) for periods of 1, 3, and 6 months; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp87F6gczGw
That video took the wind out of my sails. Granted, he's using the monitor in a more aggressive fashion with higher brightness and having a white app (Word) open on half the screen nearly the whole time, but I'm wondering whether it'd still be a foolish decision to get an OLED monitor in spite of that. Hiding the Windows taskbar for a monitor's sake would just become a major daily annoyance, too.
Another thought would be to get the MSI, exchange it if/when the burn-in occurs, and then sell the new monitor locally if I fear a repeat of the experience, then buy something else. Since the purpose of the new purchase is to get something that won't have PWM and therefore will be kinder to my sensitive eyes, I can't switch between monitors. I want to retire the AOC permanently.
Lastly, after my extensive research, it appears the very best non-OLED monitor for my money would be the LG 32GR93U.
Any thoughts? Please no 1-sentence replies such as "Get this one, it's awesome." I'd need more reasoning and details than that.
Both CPUs are the same price, but an AM5 mobo+DDR5 is more expensive than AM4 mobo+DDR4, would it be worth getting the 7600X? I might be able to skip AM5 entirely with a 5700X3D, as it has 8 cores and 3d v-cache, but a 7600x in an AM5 motherbaord allows me to upgrade to a future AM5 chip if I need to.
I'm not aiming for super high FPS, just 60fps in games and 90fps in VR
Hello, could you please recommend cooling + case for this setup. The family member im doing it for dont want water cooling thou (i know)
Lexar 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MHz CL30
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk
CRUCIAL T500 2TB SSD
PSU 1200w
MSI GeForce RTX 4070 Super
I'm looking for 2 monitors with similar specs. Budget for each is roughly 200-400~
Monitor #1:
Monitor #2:
I currently have a rtx 2080 and a ryzen 5 5600x 16gb of ram 3600mhz ddr4 I only play games with low graphics and high framerates, like cs2, overwatch 2 and now cod bo6 on low graphics. I want to get better framerates in all this games since I have a 240hz monitor. What should I upgrade for more framerates, or for better performance in general?
I was looking for a ryzen 7 7800x3d and upgrading to 32gb of ram 6000mhz, but I dont know if it is worth it. thanks for the help
So question - why do mobo manufacturers leave USB defaults that clearly cause lag and stutter? Surely this is not just my issue - different boards from separate manufacturers and same problem. Symptoms are floaty /laggy mouse in windows and games that look like 60hz although playing on 240 hz. Also that feeling of being behind all the time in the game. All of the below contribute to the above issues - I am not sure if this is really how boards are supposed to work..
Native ASPM - should be enabled (depends on manufacturer was enabled or disabled), otherwise mouse lag
XHCI handoff - should be disabled (always on by default), otherwise that feeling of being behind in the game
Legacy mouse - should be disabled (always on by default), otherwise mouse lag or slow mouse
PS/2 support - should be disabled (typically on by default and can disable through fast boot option), otherwise slow mouse once again.
I tried several boards in the $300-400 range from separate manufacturers and they all have same issues. Also tried using different hardware CPUs, GPUs, mice, monitors, NVMEs, etc. Different bios versions and also windows settings, but really just windows defaults are best.
Anyone have similar experience with mobos?
Thanks.
I want to get a monitor just for watching shows and movies so I don't need a high refresh rate I just want good colours and image quality. I don't have a lot of money to spend so I need something cheap ideally under $200 would also like if it could be made portrait
I’m trying to spec a PC which should future proof my PC so that I don’t need to upgrade ram again in the future.
What are your recommendations?
Do you think that 128GB is overkill or is 64GB enough for say the next 5 years?
Hi guys, i am trying to build a power efficient server. I have narrowed my options down to two board/cpu combinations. One is optimized for low TDP, using consumer parts. The other one would use second hand server parts and does not look at TDP.
Here are the build options:
Rest of the specs:
I know that TDP ratings for consumer parts are highly misleading. Noctua has switched to NSRP because consumer cpu producers basically lie about TDP. Instead of TDP (maximum thermal output) they commonly list ADP (average) as the TDP, to the point that "maximum TDP" and "average TDP" have become common terms. I think it is safe to assume this would not be acceptable for direct-to-business parts. Next, TDP is about thermal output at maximum load - it is not about power consumption. A hotter chip does not mean a more power consuming chip per se.
So i want to know what i can expect - how much worse will the Xeon system probably be, at idle and under load? Will it even be worse? What kind of power draw can i expect?
I’ve always wanted to try a pc and this year I’m hoping to finally get one I don’t need anything high end like 4K I just want something that can run as good as my ps5 (60-120 fps)
Edit: I play souls games, story games and sometimes open world and I’m in the uk GBP currency
Hey guys, Nico here!
I want to upgrade my PC I built a few years ago with a new GPU and I need help. My budget for the GPU is 300-400€. Here are the parts I currently use.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Pt4fMV
Can not link my case (around 10yo, named "Cooltek Ultimate Case NBB Limited Orange Edition"), an old fan and my old HDD.
Back then I put a fairly weak GPU for my CPU I guess. By no means an expert here, but I wanted to upgrade my 1650 after the prices of GPUs went down to save money. So here I am with the typical question: What GPU to get for my setup? Was thinking maybe the RX 7600XT ? It's around 340€ right now and would leave me with money for 2 more RAM sticks and/or better cooling. Maybe even a better PSU if I go a bit over budget?
Massive thanks for your time and help!
Nico :)
Hey, I'm building a PC for a friend, he'll mainly be using it for video editing and rendering.
Any suggestions?
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BnK9jH)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i9-14900K 3.2 GHz 24-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZLjRsY/intel-core-i9-14900k-32-ghz-24-core-processor-bx8071514900k) | $440.00 @ Amazon
**CPU Cooler** | [ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III 360 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XgyH99/arctic-liquid-freezer-iii-360-563-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-acfre00136a) | $90.08 @ Amazon
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte Z790 EAGLE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Yj7scf/gigabyte-z790-eagle-ax-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-eagle-ax) | $149.99 @ Amazon
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QJ3gXL/gskill-ripjaws-s5-64-gb-2-x-32-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040g32gx2-rs5k) | $189.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Western Digital WD_Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/crKKHx/western-digital-black-sn850x-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t2x0e) | $143.00 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KvcgXL/gigabyte-windforce-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-16-gb-video-card-gv-n407tswf3oc-16gd) | $799.99 @ Amazon
**Case** | [Lian Li LANCOOL 216 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KKytt6/lian-li-lancool-216-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-lancool-216rx) | $89.99 @ Newegg
**Power Supply** | [MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zF4Zxr/msi-mag-a850gl-pcie5-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mag-a850gl-pcie5) | $83.79 @ Newegg
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1996.83
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| **Total** | **$1986.83**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-10-29 07:03 EDT-0400 |Parts list
Just ripped out my old intel build and replaced with Ryzen 5 7600 and accompanied motherboard + RAM.
I've done nothing else so far besides installing the hardware. So I'm now wondering in what order I should proceed in terms of fresh Windows install, updating BIOS (if an update do exist), installing drivers etc. I haven't even booted yet since replacing the hardware. I want to get the firm/software part done right from the start.