Recently i set up my pc with new parts (mother board, processor and memory ram, but after that, i saw that simple tasks, like task manager, my web browser and games are having a too high enegy usage.

The same games and programs i used before, now are at a high energy usage through task manager. While monitoring the temperatura, it doesn't get too high, but at the moment, the computer start making a kinda high sound.

Can someone help me?

I have a monitor with only 2 USB-C ports (Samsung Odyssey G85SB) which I use both for gaming via desktop and working via laptop.

Currently, my setup is:

• Desktop connected to the monitor with Display Port ('Video')
• Mouse and keyboard connected to the Desktop with USB-A ('Data + Energy')
• Laptop connected to the monitor with USB-C ('Video + Energy')

I would like to use the mouse and the keyboard to control both the desktop and the laptop.

The two setup I am thinking are:

1 - KVM only for mouse and keyboard

1. Mouse and keyboard connected to KVM switch with USB-A ('Data + Energy')
2. Monitor connected to Desktop with Display Port ('Video')
3. Monitor connected to Laptop with USB-C ('Video + Energy')
4. KVM connected to monitor with USB-C ('Data + Energy')
5. KVM connected to Desktop with USB-A ('Video')

2 - KVM for mouse, keyboard and laptop

1. Mouse and keyboard connected to KVM switch with USB-A ('Data + Energy')
2. Laptop connected to KVM switch with USB-C ('Data + Energy + Video')
3. Monitor connected to Desktop with Display Port ('Video')
4. KVM connected to monitor with USB-C ('Data + Energy + Video')
5. KVM connected to Desktop via USB-A ('Video')

I wouldn't use the KVM switch for the desktop video, because there I would like to have high performance with a high refresh rate, which, if I understood it correctly, it's not always guaranteed with the KVM switch, while for the laptop I don't care that much.

It is also worth it to mention that both mouse and keyboard have RGBs, which should be synched via software while using Desktop (as they are right now) while could be ignored for the laptop.

Which of the two setups makes more sense? Should I do something different? Which KVM switch would you recommend?

Thank you!

Hi, can someone help me control my RGB lights on my case? i downloaded the xtreme tuner software and tried to link it with my phone but the connection failed even though my phone and pc are on the same network. I tried just controlling it from the pc software but it didnt let me.

Hi, I'm having this problem: the laptop screen remains black even though it works once connected to an external monitor. Do you have any advice to give me? Thanks in advance!

I'm a software developer, working mostly remote from my home office.

As such, I have a computer with several USB devices connected to my motherboard, Asus Maximus VIII HERO. To name a few:

• Keyboard (with built-in USB hub, not in use)
• Display monitors (with built-in USB hub, not in use)
• Microphone
• HD Webcamera
• Oculus Rift CV1 (with two CV1 IR sensors)
• SD Card Reader
• XBox Controller
• +++ (for convenience, I also have a ICY BOX IB-AC6113 USB Hub that several devices are connected to)

This setup has worked perfect for the last 8 years. As a side note, I am planning to upgrade the whole rig in a not-so-distant future. However, until that point, I want to squeeze as much as possible out of my current rig.

A few weeks ago, I decided to upgrade my streaming setup with an Elgato Stream Deck to make it easier for me to participate in Teams meetings.

When I connect this device, it seems to be stealing the available bandwidth that used to be allocated to my HD camera, as the camera stops working when I plug it in.

If I remove the Stream Deck, the HD camera starts working again.

Is there a way I can get all these devices to be compatible without upgrading the motherboard itself? I am considering buying a dedicated PCI-e USB controller card for my HD camera like this, but would that actually work?

I.e., would this effectively offload the onboard USB controller, and allow the USB camera to work seamless with the other hardware?

ChatGPT has already confirmed to me this this will work, but as I prefer trusting strangers on the Internet instead of an AI, I would much prefer a second opinion 😁

TL;DR; My USB camera stops working when I plug in an Elgato Stream Deck controller. Would I solve this by buying a PCIe USB controller card?

Hi, so I enabled secure boot in my bios settings and ever since then my computer just has a black screen whenever I try booting it up. I can't get into the bios again and it doesn't boot to windows.

I have been trying every solution I can think of/look up and still no good.

-I have removed the cmos battery multiple times for 5 minutes plus

-have tried shorting the JBT1

-Have tried flashing the bios on 4 different USB thumb drives, and I made that they were set to MBR partition, FAT32 format, used the proper MSI motherboard bios download, set changed the file name to MSI.ROM, and made sure nothing else was on the thumbdrives other than that file with no folders. I tried with both USB 2.0 and 3.0 thumbdrives, and none were over 32 gb.

-have tried disconnecting pretty much everything, I've tried flashing bios without the cpu plugged in, GPU, 1 ram stick, 2 ram sticks, and storages attached/connected.

-every single time I have tried to flash the bios I have gotten 2 red blocking lights and then solid red.

I've spend 4+ hours trying to fix it and I am at a loss :(. Thank you for your time.

System info:

Windows 10

MSI B450 gaming plus

Ryzen 3600

GTX 1080

G.SKILL V series 16gb(2x8) DDR4 3600MHz

240gb SATA SSD

1tb m.2 ssd

750 watt power supply

Hi thanks for reading I have a Intel corei7 fan cooled a couple of years Old but & I've notice that it's heating to between 90-100 degrees in short bursts (30 sec max)at only about 50% usage is this normal or should I apply some more thermal paste

I'm not sure what it really means, I just want to know why it's there. Post-script It is not anything related with my apps (at least, I think.), since it appears in the boot screen.

Low story short I'm staying at an extended stay/hotel for a couple months. While I'm here I want to online game but when using the hotels Wi-Fi I lag frequently. Because of this issue I bought a Wi-Fi dongle for my PC and it didn't improve my lagging issue much but it did open a new network I didn't have access to with my standard Wi-Fi chip. That being XFINTY WI-FI I remember in the past having some success with the NOWPASS. So I bought it and connected only problem is this is way worse as the strength of the signal is only 2 bars.

I've gamed on the WI-FI pass in the past so I was wondering would this issue be fixed by buying a better Wi-Fi Adapter or am I just too far.

I have tried everything, nothing works. cab files are useless device manager keeps telling me that no specific file is "found" any installation through a program fails every time.

I'm planning to buy an i5 14600KF, but I've read that there are some issues with this generation of processors.

Is it true or what is the issue?

I've bought a brand new laptop in June, and been using it since then almost daily (for 90% of days since June).
The laptop has an SSD as it's primary drive.
However, when I checked the disk with CrystalDiskMark today, I've noticed it reports 1843 power-on-hours and 67496 power-on-count. Hours seem about accurate, but the number of power-on counts seems impossibly high. Should I be concerned, or is it the software bugging out?
This is the pic.

Below are my specs:

Ryzen 7 5700X

Gigabyte B450m Aorus Elite

16gb 3200mhz ram

250gb sn750

1tb 970 evo plus

1tb wd blue hdd

Zotac 4060 ti 8gb

EVGA 500GD 500w PSU

Over the past 2-3 months I have been receiving the error mentioned in the title a numerous amount of times. I am aware that it relates to the GPU, however it is fairly new as I only bought it last year in June/July (cant remember). I experienced the crashing in FC 25, Alan wake 2 and most recently Ghost of Tsushima.

I have done some research and have found that there were 2 main culprits of the issues. The first being the graphics card drivers which I uninstalled completely with DDU after the first 2-3 crashes a couple months back. Since then I have been updating the graphics card drivers regularly and ticking the clean install option each time, as one time it crashed my whole computer and windows got corrupted however I could roll back to a previous version (this is what made me do DDU). The second was a faulty GPU, I am unsure how to test this properly. Is there a software that I could use to stress test it?

Another possible solution that I saw was that the PSU wasn't powerful enough to drive the system.

In conclusion, I am confused and any help would be greatly appreciated.

All of my USB devices stopped working, it occurred when I had a PS4 controller plugged in to a USB 3.0 port which i do not do often but occasionally with no previous problems. In device manager it reads I have 3, USB 3.1 eXtensible host controllers and 2 USB 3.0.

I have a wireless keyboard that can be disconnected and used wireless which wires in with a micro USB connection to charge which interestingly works whilst wired but not when wireless. Additional to this I can see it is charging but swapping the port it's connected to around doesn't stop it from working as long as it's wired and same with other devices but they do not work in any ports.

Also upon reboot I can see my mouse power on very briefly before the lights go out. And final piece of information I can think to give is that a device I plugged in after this happened also does not respond

Please help/ask for additional information as required

Okay so I want to enable hardware virtualization, I've read that I need to enable it in BIOS but for some reason there's a password protecting said BIOS which I don't know making it impossible. Is there anyway to enable it without going through BIOS or atleast a way to bypass the password

I keep all of my "active" files on my Desktop. They can accumulate sometimes, so to view them in a more organized manner, I normally open a Windows Explorer window with List view and group by file type.

For some reason the past few days whenever I open Windows Explorer and navigate to Desktop, where the default view is List / group by file type, that singular window freezes. I can open new windows that work, I can still use my taskbar, etc. But that one window is now frozen.

If I open the Desktop folder through another means, where the default view isn't List / group by file type, it also doesn't freeze. However it does freeze when I change the view to List / group by file type. Details / group by file type works fine, List / ungrouped works fine, but List / group by file type freezes.

I've had this happen before, but I don't recall what the problem or solution was. This time around, I've restarted, I've installed all updates, I've tried shutting down some unnecessary processes, but no success with any of those.

Anybody know what's going on? Or at least how I can reset my Desktop view so it's not locked into the List / group by file type view?

Here's a screenshot. https://prnt.sc/ALHIh478vSIL

Hello. I use a Hp Elitebook Laptop, and have WH-CH10 headphones, although this issue is mainly on my laptop as it happens to all bluetooth devices i connect to it, and everything works fine on my other devices. Basically my audio stutters like crazy, like every 1-2 seconds, i cant hear the audio. It's so annoying it's driving me mad. I've tried multiple solutions like unpairing and repairing, forgettihg the device, disabling the bluetooth service, disabling enhancements, troubleshooter, updating my computer, etc. The only way to fix this audio issue is to just use my computer speakers or use manually wire connected headphones. Can someone help?

Morning everyone.

Recently bought a new Samsung tv that runs 4k on 120hz. Hooked it up to my computer (4070ti), with a hdmi 2.1 cable that supports 4k at 120hz. Everything works fine at 60hz, however when I change to 120hz I get "Lost connection to hdmi". Any ideas as to what's causing this?

I don't feel I am getting the FPS I should be in titles like call of duty, warzone, etc... Even fortnite doesn't get to 100 FPS, regardless of quality settings. I have a pny 4080 super, i5 12600k, gigabyte b760m bs3h ddr4 motherboard, 64 GB ddr4 Corsair vengeance ram, 1200 watt PSU, wd black SSD. I have resize bar enabled. I've done everything I can think of to improve performance. Everything from low to high settings, high performance power plan, eliminating background applications that are not essential, fresh install of Windows 11. The problems were even worse with the 24h2 update, reverted back to 23h2. My temps are good, mid to high 60s on the GPU. I just don't know what I'm missing. If anyone can give me some direction on what to monitor, any bios settings that would improve performance, really anything that would help, I would appreciate it.

At my uni, everyone seems to have a lower ping than I do, even though we’re all connected to the same Wi-Fi. I own an Asus Zephyrus G14 and have already tried several fixes, including changing the DNS, flushing the DNS cache, disabling IPv6, and updating my network drivers. The difference isn’t astronomical for instance, if I get around 30ms, others get closer to 25ms—but I’d still like to figure out how to resolve this.

So ive noticed that the a30s and a70s motherboard looks strikingly alike, and was wondering if its possible, the connectors also look to line up, though im not sure if compatible.

can I recover the drive?

Howdy fellas, quick question

If I've got an HDMI splitter can I have one cord connected to a monitor and the other to a capture card? Might be a dumb question but can't find much about this stuff online. Thanks in advance

I have a 4 year old private laptop windows 10 os that has been connected to my dorm wifi for 3-4 months now. I’ve been able to connect it to the wifi and use it normally until two days ago when it just suddenly stopped working.

My phone/other devices can connect to the WiFi. I also tested to see if my laptop can connect via Ethernet cable and it works as well as my phone hotspot. Maybe it is a hardware issue but I want to make sure I try everything before bringing it to a specialist.

The current message when I attempt to connect is “No Internet, secured” and “your device is connected and can access other devices on your local network but may not be able to reach the Internet”.

I’ve tried: uninstalling all drivers under Network Adapters and restarting/ Updating any drivers/ Flushing DNS and other cmd prompt messages/ Restarting router/ Uninstalling vpn

Hey. I have an issue with my Gmail. For every email I receive my Gmail automatically replies with this custom reply. I made this autoreply on another gmail years ago and afterwards I have deleted that mailaccount, so I have no idea how it suddenly merged into my private gmail account. I have tried everything and I dont know how to stop the autoreply. Autoreply is off. No mails are connected to my private one. Can anyone help me?

So I got a new mother board: Gigabyte X870 EAGLE WIFI7 ATX AM5 Motherboard and I need to update the bios to run with my new CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core Processor. But my computer doesn’t restart as intended. When I try and restart it just shuts off. The PC runs well like it’s not a power issue. It just when things never to restart to finish updating I can’t go through with it because it shuts off. I have to wait a couple of seconds before turning it back on. I try and turn it back on within 30 seconds of it shutting off it will turn on but then turn off immediately. The pc turns on from a cold boot. I can shut the PC down and start it back up fine but once it needs to restart it won’t and just shut off. So I like I said before I need to update my bios and in the process of updating it it needs to restart and completely the update but it doesn’t even work because my Pc shuts off. If trouble shooted every thing. Redo wires, test the ram, The gpu, all that and nothing. I think it might be a motherboard fault. Idk I want to know if anyone has any tips or suggestions?

Help me!!

SO I have these headphones they are the JBL LIVE 77ONC, Bluetooth Headphones.

SSO I have them connected to my chromebook when I got them and used them for a few months they were fine, the sound was fine everything was fine when I connected it to my chromebook. But these weeks the sound is like uhmm just different, I barely hear background noises when Im watching any videos and only mostly hear the voices but no bg sounds, I hear them but their minimal. If you know what I mean

I tried everything I dont know how to fix it please help....!

their fine on my phone by the way just its been different lately on my chromebook.

Sometimes, randomly, my server will become unable to communicate with other devices on the internet. The server is still powered on. I can turn on the monitor and log in. I just cannot SSH into the server from my computer or use any of my services from any of my devices.

The server runs an Intel AX210, Ryzen 7 3700X, and 16 GB of RAM.

I've also noticed that the server goes down when a few things happen, but haven't been able to pinpoint which one exactly. It could be running Soulseek on my main computer, qBittorrent or qBittorrent-nox on my main computer or my server respectively, or running AirVPN on my main computer.

This issue has been plaguing me for a few months. My ISP is AT&T. Will add more information if I get more.

Today's date is 3rd December, and if I change the date in my laptop to 1 month behind, i.e. 3rd November, and keep it like this for 1 month until 3rd January 2025, and then correct the date to what it is at that time, will this affect my laptop in any way?

Reason for changing date: There are some video lectures in my laptop which will expire in some days. I changed my laptop's date to a previous date, and in the software which I watch the study lectures, the number of days in which the videos would expire increased. Now I am not sure if changing date would keep the video lectures for another month. I would only know if it will work if I am able to see the lectures after the date of expiry. Please suggest if it's safe to change the date of the laptop like this and if it would affect the laptop in any way.