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I built a computer for a teenager for last Christmas and he's now complaining that running GTA5 and Roblox get poor performance and sometimes causes the programs to crash. These games were working great when I tested them with him after he got the PC, and he has a 1070 and an i5-10400F so a phone game and a game from 2013 should not have become harder to run 1 year later. My theory is that he's downloaded questionable software and has bloated his PC which is hogging its resources. We did a screen share with Task Manager open and his CPU and GPU were occasionally hitting 100% utilisation simply opening GTA and looking at the menus.
In order to test my theory, my plan is to have a fresh install of Windows 11 on a spare SSD (not activated) and then swap it out for his current SSD temporarily to see if things work better. I'll also have GTA 5 installed and then we can see if it has the same performance issues without the rest of his software present.
Does this seem like a reasonable troubleshooting step? Can I get the Windows installation ready before I am plugged into his PC, or is it better to install it once it is connected to the correct hardware? Are there any alternative troubleshooting steps I should take that might be more effective/sensible?
I went to safari and saw 83 trackers prevented from profiling me. What does it mean??
My pc cant get a connection wirh ethernet cable... it says with the manuel Set IP adress it can Not connect with the Internet ( I Set the IP on Automatic) idk does someone habe any idea how to fix that? Btw betreten 2pm and 4pm it worked. After i restarted my pc i got this issue
I'm facing a perplexing issue with my TrueNAS server and I'm hoping to get some insights from this community. Here are the details:
Motherboard: Supermicro X10SL7-F (built in gigabit NIC)
CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1240 V3 3.4 GHz Quad-Core Processor
Memory: 32 GB DDR3-1600 CL11 (4 x 8 GB)
Storage: 8x Western Digital Gold 2 TB HDDs 128mb cache 72000 RPM (WD2005FBYZ) (RAID6)
OS Drive: Western Digital Red SA500 SSD 1tb
Local Transfer Speed: Copying a 3GB file locally on the server is super fast, taking about 2-3 seconds.
Network Transfer Speed: When copying the same file over the network (from both a desktop and a laptop, each with gigabit NICs), the speed drops to an average of 115 megabytes per second, taking around 25 seconds. This happens regardless of whether I use the desktop or the laptop, and both are on the same switch as the server.
Given the high-end specs of the server, I expected the network transfer to be much quicker. I'm trying to understand why there's such a significant drop in speed when transferring over the network compared to local transfers.
Does anyone have any ideas on what might be causing this slowdown? Could it be a configuration issue, a hardware limitation, or something else? I'd really appreciate any tips or advice on how to troubleshoot this.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Hello people of r/techsupport!
I moved to this apartment complex that forces us to use spectrum. The modem/router is in our master closet and has one Ethernet port and that doesn't work well for our family.
We ended up buying a linksys router. Plugging it into the Ethernet port in the outlet in the livingroom and everything worked great. Until recently.
It stopped working one day. My SO in enrolled in online school so we called spectrum immediately. They sent someone who told us our router was "blacklisted". He said the best he could do is change our our modem in the closet, which didn't help. The internet worked for a few hours then stopped connecting again.
After I got home from work that day, I reset the linksys router to factory settings. Copied the MAC address of our desktop to the router then everything worked like normal. The only problem now is that I have to do this every day or two, and sometimes that still doesn't work.
And the weirdest thing to me is that when the Internet goes down and I go to myrouter.local. it takes me to a page for setting up a Netgear WiFi extender which I do not have nor do I have a Netgear product that I am aware.
I was wondering if there is anything I can do to get around this and why the Netgear extender is involved at all. Thank you for any help you can give!
Can someone please help me, I work From home, I have a Acer Aspire 3 Laptop, and my fan blows constantly the entire time I'm working, what is the problem and how can I stop it?
so im temporarly living in my parents house again. they dont have a cable connection from their internet provider but a antenna (im not sure what it's called, but i think WAN?) Anyways the Antenna goes via LAN into a 7530 AX router and from there via LAN into my PC.
With this setup i constantly have 2-4% packetloss (this is only a problem for online games). Is this fixable or is this just the case with the Antenna? The Loss occurs at all times, even when the network is not taxed heavily. I also talked with the proivder allready, they say the connection is perfect and i even tried to up the flatrate for 1 day to see if there is some kind of bottleneck.
i also tried different lan ports and cables. i get the same ammount of loss with WLAN too. so i do think the problem is the router or beyond.
i downloaded PingPlotter and pinged 126.96.36.199 (a austrian dota2 server apperantly; didnt find any IPs for CS2). whats interesting is: when i set the interval to 1 second i dont have any loss at hop 1 but small loss on all the other hops (0-2%). but when i set the interval to 0.5 seconds i get huge loss on hop 1 (40-50%). dont know if that says anything. https://imgur.com/a/kGOuBgP
i have no clue about network stuff and tried some basic tips i found on the internet in the router mask and so on. does anyone have an idea how to fix this?
Since few hours ago I am facing this weird problem.
My internet is working, as I'm able to send messages via WhatsApp, and use websites and apps like YouTube or Facebook from both phone and laptop. However, most websites don't load.
Websites that do load and work normally: YouTube, Amazon, Facebook, WhatsApp web, and few others. Google search also works no problem, as well as Gmail.
Websites that do not load: Reddit, chess.com, linkedin and most others websites.
I tried different browsers, different devices, both WiFi and cable connection but the problem persists. I also tried to turn off and on again my router. Notably I have not turned off any of my decices since this morning (when everything was working normally), and i have not installed any program
Any idea what's going on?
I want t buy a program from someone i know from reddit,
I am afraid if i pay him first he will just ignore me and not give me the program,
and he is afraid if he gave me the program i will ignore him and not pay him,
and I can only pay in paypal, is there a solution?
PC Crashes after first launch and then doesn’t again after reboot
Strange issue with my PC, I’ll launch for the first time in the day, and I’ll launch a game, Fifa or Rocket League for example.
After about maybe 20-30 minutes, it freezes and crashes, leaving a freeze frame of whatever game I was playing.
So I turn it off, relaunch it, and it’s completely fine for the rest of the day, no matter how long I’m on.
Was wondering if there was anyone on here that might know what the problem and whether it’s something I can fix myself
This has been going on for a while, but I've been getting signed out of all my accounts (Gmail, X, Instagram, Facebook, Twitch, reddit, you name it) whenever I close Edge. This started happening over a month ago and I've just been waiting for a miracle to happen with an update whether for Edge or Windows 10.
I've tried using other browsers like Chrome and Brave but the issue still persists. I've reset my network settings and cleaned my cookies and cache with CCleaner and even manually.
I thought I could live like this, telling myself it's for safety because now I have to sign in everytime and do the 2FA. But now it's becoming frustrating and annoying.
I don't want to reinstall Windows yet and would only consider it if I'm on vacation because I have work to do and I use my PC to work remotely from my office.
I'd appreciate anything new to try to fix this issue. Thanks for your time to read this issue report/mini-rant.
Hello Ive had my computer for about 3 months and has been great no issues whatsoever, but recently my computer takes close to 5 min to boot up and when I check task manager it sets my ram speed to 3600mhz when i have 6400mhz ddr5 4 sticks. When I turn my computer on the yellow light stays on for about 4-5 min then it boots. Ive reseated all ram sticks and hasnt fixed anything.
Specs- Ryzen 9 7900x
4 sticks corsair ddr5 6400mhz 64gb
asus rog strix b-650 (updated to the latest bios)
This is a Lenovo x220
The above image is shortly after replacing the CPU fan:
Immediately after the replacement, the machine worked perfectly for about 2 minutes except for some problems with the trackpad and keyboard
I got a blue screen (something about an unspecified driver trying to corrupt something) so I did a hard reboot
It booted into something resembling CMOS setup. The keyboard was mostly not working so I had to reboot again
The next few times I tried to turn it on, the LED backlight came on but nothing else. The one exception is the image above.
Now pressing the power button doesn't seem to do anything at all
Did I get some thermal paste on the motherboard? (I think it wouldn't have started at all if that were the issue)
Did I accidentally touch the wrong component? (same)
Did I somehow damage a SIMM?
I don't know where to begin - the only thing I could think of is taking the SIMMS out, dusting (with canned air) and replacing them (which did nothing).
My pc usually started turning off after I moved it from one room to another it had the same problem before but unplugging and repluggling it fixed but now I tried what I have to do is push the power cable in tightly hold it so that it even starts but it turns on for a few seconds and it turns off
And it doesn't post in the mean while for the 2 3 times it tries to boot
looking for a replacement screen for my Aorus XE4 I noticed the screen for the Aorus BMF is identical, the BMF screen is available in my country so is cheaper and safer to ship, just wondering if there's something I'm missing, thanks.
links to both screens:
As the title says, I was clumsy enough to let it happen.
I didnt have much on my pc so i tried resetting my pc through local reinstallation... It shows i need to set a pin for the device but when i click on "set up pin" it shows "user profile service service failed the sign in" Starting with Safe mode isnt working... The pc is also not reading my bootable usb for a windows reinstallation... Please any kind of help would be much appreciated
as you can see in this image it work fine at 20:05:08 but at 20:08:23 it just stopped working pls help
here's the screenshot: https://snipboard.io/aD3CxB.jpg
So overclocking is dangerous, but while trying to optimize the fan curve to your liking ie how much noise vs how much performance or performance loss, can you fry your GPU, or would it just shut down before actual heat-damage could occur similarly to a CPU?
Screen turns black and fans start spinning at max, has happened to me non-stop since last week. Should I be concerned?
I was playing this fairly old game and suddenly my pc crashes and have no other than reset it. Thinking it was just some odd one-time incident I rebooted immediately after. 20 minutes later the same crash happens and I turn off my pc till now. Observations: This hasn't happened to me till last week, and it has become an extremely annoying and repetitive occurrence. My pc is still fairly new. My temps were below 60 c° all time. Low CPU and GPU usage all the time.
-I have unistalled and reinstalled my GPU drivers. -I have reinstalled windows -According to what I have researched, it doesn't seem to be a problem related to my PSU as my fans and lights are running as usual during the crash(apart from the fact my PSU is capable enough of supplying my GPU).
What makes me think the ram sticks may have something to do with these crashes is that my pc acts the same exact way it did when I first booted with the ram installed incorrectly.
Is this something plausible to think?
I receive alerts through my firewall that specific devices try to access my device using port 138, TCP port 7000, port 137 and others.
Is this an intentional process carried out by a user, or is it an automated program?
Please let me know anything you know about it. The alert also references Netbios Datagram, file share services and Trojans.
I have Lenovo Legion 5 Pro
When I press the button it starts blinking slowly charging light blinks too and i waited for like a hour and still didnt open so i holded the power button for 6 seconds and turned it off i think i tried holding the button for 60 seconds see if it had static but nothing changed
I've built my computer in the beggining of the year, bought 4 sticks of DDR4 3200 Corsair Vengeance RAM. I've had some crashs on games and blue screens until I figured out I had a RAM problem. Turned off XMP and had no issues again, but I was running my memory at 2133. I thought that was a problem on my dimms or the reason was I that I was running 4 sticks instead of 2. So I bought another 2 sticks of 16GB 3200 memory.
They arrived today. I turned on XMP again. And had problems... again. Ran a quick RDR2 benchmark to test and had a crash. Event viewer says "windows removed bad memory regions from this pc". What do I do? I might just turn off XMP again and go on with my life.
Computer Type: Desktop
GPU: RX 6750 XT Mech 2X 12G OC MSI AMD
Motherboard: B660M Gaming X Gigabyte
BIOS Version: F21
RAM: 32GB Asgard T3 3200 - 16GBx2
PSU: MSI MPG A750GF
Case: Montech Sky Two
Operating System & Version: Windows 11 Home 22H2 22621.2134
GPU Drivers: Adrenalin 23.8.1
That easy. Worked yesterday, now won't work at all. Haven't done anything or changed anything.
So I was resetting my windows and it was going normally until it started glitching out the text and the animation . I wanted to insert the image but I cant
hey guys, the problem is, that on my main pc's mainboard (msi b450m gaming plus) the ez debug via led is turning red short after boot. no signal coming to my monitor. I tested the gpu in another pc with the same monitor and I got an image. I swapped the gpu in my main pc with another one and got the same vga led problem. the gpu gets power, because the fans spin on boot, but turn off after the led goes on.
I got the problem a few days after a windows reset and I remember that I clicked "turn off and update" when I turned the pc of the last time it worked. I also think that after 1hour (estimated) it was still running but monitors where turned off and I wanted to sleep, so I hold the turn off button until it shut down, because I thought that I clicked "restart and update" (im really not sure what I clicked, but I thought that this info might be important)
my pc specs:
16gb ddr4 ram, gtx 1070, ryzen 5 2600
what I already tried:
bios update, bios reset (removing battery), removed other components (ssd, hdd, ram)
thanks for your help:)
Recently, I purchased a new power bank, the Trust Laro 65W, primarily selected for its rapid charging capability (2 hours with a 65w charger). To enhance this feature, I also acquired the Anker Nano II 65W USB-C charger and a Baseus USB C cable with 100W PD, 5A QC 4.0 support.
Upon testing, I discovered that the entire power bank doesn't charge with this setup. Intriguingly, when I used the Anker Nano II with a different USB-C cable, it functioned correctly. Similarly, employing a different charging block (from a Pixel phone) with the Baseus USB-C cable yielded successful results. Both of these options wouldn't charge the battery in 2 hours (which I'm looking for). However, the combined use of the Anker Nano II and Baseus cable failed to charge. I tried different outlets too and combinations but I'm confused? Any insights or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
About a month ago I clicked on what was presumably some kind of malicious website masquerading as a normal one for uni work and accepted notifications from it, which I now know was silly!
I then got many scam popups along the lines of"Your IP address is being used in Russia" trying to get me to download anti-virus software and stuff like that. I ignored them, ran a Windows Defender scan but did go and download AVG afterwards. I have since also downloaded Malwarebytes to scan as well (which is probably excessive, am now just wishing I didn't pay for a year of AVG, but anyway) all is apparently fine.
I do however keep getting notifications from AVG saying "Threat blocked we've safely aborted connection on adia lita . com because it was infected with URL:scam." (I put the spaces into the website name as I didn't want to put a link to a nasty website in the post, I searched the website on a scam detector and it confirmed its host to malware or something). I get about two of these notifications a day. Does this mean somehow I'm being redirected to this website? Just wondering what's happening here.
I use chrome and have an acer swift 3 for background, if that is at all relevant.
I've found myself in a position where I can gift everyone in my family a preowned computer for Christmas. I'm pretty savvy when it comes to hardware but lack extensive knowledge about software. On top of that the members of my family who will be given these computers aren't tech savvy.
Basically what I want to do is setup 10 or so laptops for members of my family and have some kind of software (be it a script or something else) that I can install to keep them from borking their own machines (as much as is possible), since I may not be able to fix it if they do. Preferably something automated that I can just run and leave it be.
Or barring that, I would like a list of programs. Registry hacks, browser add-ons, settings to change, or what ever else, that will best keep a computer safe in the hands of a lay person.
I'll be installing windows 10 pro on all of these computers.
Thanks in advance!
Sometimes, I'd get Google Image Search to start looking like this: https://imgur.com/wzcTMTA
Then I would refresh and it's back to normal: https://imgur.com/rOt8RUG
I can't figure out how to turn it back to normal, nor even reproduce it! Can anyone chime in?
I'm on a Mac OS Sonoma using the Arc Browser.