Looking to buy my first hand plane. There's a Stanley #5 jack plane near me for $75. Type 16-19 (not sure exactly which type).

The iron has a curved edge to it. Is this okay? I did a little bit of research, but figured y'all could give a more definitive answer. Thanks.

Looking for some recommendations on saws and chisels that are good quality for a fair price.

New or used ?

I need some rasps to hog off material. Dont need anything special but i know cheap rasps dont really have a bite.

Does anybody have experience with the narex ones?

Has anyone used Pfiel bevel edges chisels? I know they are well thought of for carving. But I rarely hear them mentioned in the bench chisel conversation. I have an opportunity to get a nice set, but don't want to invest at all unless there is an improvement over my mind range Narex chisels.

I receive periodic emails from an online auction aggregator (or something like that) for upcoming auctions. I've never bought anything through them but I love to browse some of the photos of furniture and such. Many times the photos are high resolution allowing me to see good details. Anyhow, there's an interesting tool chest being auctioned off. It includes a bunch of tools that I recognize and quite a few that I don't. There are planes, saws and other tools but no chisels or carving tools. I'm hoping this group can offer some ideas on the kind of wood work the tool collection is used for. It may just be a carpenter's tool collection.

Also, I'm not a collector and I have no affiliation with the sellers so I'm not interested in the auction itself but some of you may be.

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Mods- I hope this is okay.

Just a general heads-up to the community. If you are looking to buy tools from any of the big online tool dealers, make absolutely sure that the site you are visiting, and potentially giving your payment information to, is the dealer's actual website. If the price is heavily discounted or sounds too good to be true, it's probably a scam.

Three times in the past month, I've come across scam websites that scrape photos and listings from some of the big-name tool dealers. The scam websites look legit, down to a privacy policy and everything. The prices of all the tools are heavily discounted from what the items originally sold for. There are hundreds of pages of tools, none of which are marked "sold". The sites are all registered outside of the US, and the domain name registration is all fake. Some of these sites come up in the first one or two pages of Google search results.

I've talked to the people affected. It's a really tough situation for them, especially since it seems that more of these scam sites are being created. It's hard to fight other than try to get Google to de-list them.

So be smart. As with anything, if it's too good to be true, it probably is.

Are the new Stanley handplanes really not that great? I see people recommending getting old ones.

I’m new into the hand tool game and if anyone has any video recommendations on how to properly use planes and other hand tools I’d greatly appreciate it!

Hi there, I’m looking to get into American push saws for joinery. I am currently most familiar with Japanese style saws and would like to switch things up. My problem comes with the fact that my hands are a little on the larger side. I’ve tried veritas dovetail and carcass saws but they were far too small for my hands. Essentially I am asking for advice on brands/specific saws that have larger handles.

I ran into some damage I have not seen before on a Stanley plane a few days ago, where the frog screws attach the frog to the base. The cast iron is eroded and may have broken or chipped off taking a thread or two with it.

The plane has been neglected before it was stored for who knows how long and has other minor damage, most of which is repairable.

I don't have much money or time invested in this one, and I am wondering if this is common on a No 6, or on the older, pre-sweetheart era planes, and likely to keep eroding away? I have not seen this particular problem before and not sure it is worth fixing?

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I have what might be a knock-off of a Stanley multi-plane, like the #45. (I think it might be a knock-off because the casting is somewhat rough.) It works well enough.

The instructions say that In order to use the 3/16" cutter, you must remove the skate which does not have the handle attached. This is easy enough to do.

Since the removed skate has the fittings (holes) to place the depth control, how does one set a depth stop when using only the skate to which the handle is attached?

Hoping to use them to their potential as I learn more each day. I’m full in on the Rob Cosman train now…

2" gouge. I believe thr markings to say "Reference" but i could be wrong. I've been hunting one of these down for a while to convert into a bevel down gouge for archtop guitar/upright bass carving. If youre familiar, Ken Parker has a few videos on converting a similar tool to what I'm after. Ive done it to a few cheaper gouges already, and I'm convinced it's superior for the work this beautiful tool will be doing for me.

Soon to have:

New bevel New, longer handle.

A delightful life as the star of the carving show in this little shop ✨️

Some day I hope to

Hit a knot? Boom, there is a chip on your blade. Have fun grinding the bevel again!

Plane anything that isn’t remotely pine? Well, your edge goes away very quickly

Want to bang on your chisel? Make sure you’re okay with it looking like a mangled tooth

I’m tired of sharpening. Especially course sharpening. It takes forever. I have to do it so frequently

Thinking of getting a wen water wheel but idk if they’re even any faster than coarse diamond plates