I’ve always used the leftover plastic blade guards from other saws as needed, and I know TFWW sell a small roll of it for pretty cheap, but does anyone order something from McMaster or tried something off-the-shelf from the big orange store? I need to do a lot of shipping soon, so I’m looking for something in bulk.

Inb4: making out of wood is not an option

I’ve got a crap ton of tools. I’m by no means a hoarder, but I have a nice collection. I’m looking to come up with a way of inventorying everything whether it be a spreadsheet or something online. I’m thinking towards the inevitable when one day all this collection of mine will be scattered to the winds. I’m looking for a way to itemize what I have and come up with a collective value. I figure I can get most prices online generally speaking, but I don’t want to pass away and have my wife sell my Stanley number one for 50 bucks cause it Is so small lol.

Any recommendations on the best way to do this?

I have had it a long time, but it looks like I have a bark conclusion that broke away. I would like to fix it as it’s my favorite one. I have clear epoxy, but I think that would look stupid. The crack also extends along the bottom towards the handle. I believe the wood is a walnut burl with an oak handle

Hi I'm looking for recommendations for a longer bladed Japanese pull saw.

I often resaw fairly wide boards and my current saw (z-saw Ryoba 250mm) just isn't long enough and I'm looking for longer saw blades. I've found a fair few 300mm and up to a 330mm z-saw heavy duty pull saw. But I would ideally like a longer one than those.

The only thing I've found that could work is this Niwaki Sakimaru Roughcut Saw https://www.niwaki.com/sakimaru-saw/ But this might only be designed for tree work, does anyone have or tried something like this? Or use an alternative saw?

Any advice would be great. Thanks

Anyone know anything about Fulton planes? I'm in the early early stages of woodworking and want to get a decent one but can't find anything near me other than a 9" Fulton. Worth it? Or better off finding a decent Stanley on ebay?

Picked up a Stanley #71 router plane for $20. There's a slotted screw instead of a thumbscrew for the cutter, which I'd like to replace with a proper thumbscrew. Did the thumbscrew hole have standard threading, or one of the Stanley proprietary threads? I'm hoping someone didn't retap it for the slotted screw.

https://preview.redd.it/6lu8k75q20yd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4fd16f3546db8a9107613246a3b8bd0b6410512e

https://preview.redd.it/xyhq985q20yd1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1cf6101a033eee795da12768f0963e842338363

So I have a single bevel marking knife. For some reason, I could never get all 4 scored lines to meet. I transfer the score lines according to Paul Sellers. Just cannot get it right with that knife.

On the other hand, I used a normal cutter knife (Olfa) today and the lines were spot on all 4 faces. All this time I’ve thought my wood wasn’t square which caused these problems but it was just my knife (or my technique)

Anyone experienced this?

Finally got around to putting a shelf under my new workbench. I used scraps from the build as support, just screwed into the backside of the stretchers. The shelf itself is a chunk of my first bench top! I had it kicking around the shop and didn't know what to do with it when it finally occurred to me that it would be the perfect shelf, and give homage to my past bench. Still need to add a leg vise, but with my Moxon vise I've been managing.

https://preview.redd.it/cezo7luzmxxd1.jpg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=93d5bae335a0e69256e6313aafe09245f851a301

I just have to wait until about 4 days when the betting starts to end.

I noticed most of my flathead screwdrivers are not the right dimensions for antique flathead screws. If they fit in the slot they only fill half the length of the slot and sometimes damage the brass screws because of this. If I try to use a wider one it doesn’t fit in the slot. I have a shitload of screwdrivers old and new and none of them seem to fit right. What screwdrivers have a wide but not thick tip? What was used back then?

I notice one of the holes in the body of the plane where the fence rods go through is bigger than the other, so the rod does not register snugly in the hole. There is a lot of play. On mine it’s the one towards to rear of the body.

Is that normal? Can anyone with the same plane check theirs? If it is normal, what is the purpose of that? I would have thought that once the lock nuts are tightened down it is pushing the round rod against the side of a round hole, which would force them parallel anyway?

I need various length of 1x2’s (likely a soft wood). I may get some lengths cut by Home Depot but I’d like some flexibility to cut some as needed. I won’t need m more than 10-12 in total and am looking for a hand tool option that might balance cost and efficiency.

The pieces won’t be visible so they don’t need to look pretty but I do need them to butt up to one another so I can nail/glue them

Would you recommend any of the above saws pictured or a different variety? If so, why?

Can someone recommend a good rabbet plane for cutting into the edge of wood. I like to do recessed bottoms on boxes and I’ve been doing it with chisels up to this point - which is both time consuming and uneven. There seem to be a variety of different planes for doing this. What would be a good way to go that doesn’t break the bank?