I understand the basic principle of laying out two centre lines at a right angle to each other on a timber and referencing joinery from those lines. However, I’d like some more practical examples of some actual joints laid out using the method. Are there any books that reference this in detail?

Other books of specific joint layout would be appreciated as well.

Hopefully someone with an engineering background can answer this-

So I have a small construction company in southwest Montana- Big Sky area specifically. We specialize in “timber framing” and some metal work. I’m hesitant to call it timber framing because we very rarely use traditional mortise and tenon joinery although we do frequently use certain traditional methods like scarf joints and dovetails. I would love to build exclusively with traditional methods but almost every set of plans I see call for steel plates, lag screws, or all thread. In the last 2 years I’ve built only 2 projects with M&T and without metal fasteners.

I’m wondering if this is a building code requirement for seismic, or the engineers/ architects aren’t familiar with traditional timber framing? I see other true timber frames go up in my area so I’ve been wondering how they see engineered drawings to do so.

Granted, I am very proud and enjoy the work we get to do.

Hey everyone, I’m wanting to know if anyone has purchased one of the 12 inch makita planers on eBay. They are all from Japan and they are about $1500, so much cheaper than buying them here. Are these fake? There are a bunch of sellers. I’d love to snag one and save the money but I’m skeptical to say the least. Thanks

Hello everyone, I have a quick question about white pine. I'm building a small workshop with a loft next year, and I now have the opportunity to get my white pine beams for free.

The problem is that the trees are still standing. I have access to about fifteen white pines, each around 90 feet tall and 40 inches at the base (i know , i'm lucky) . I have the right tools to cut and remove the logs, and I have a few years of experience in forestry, but I have a concern. I know it's better to cut pines in the winter (I live north of Montreal, Quebec), but I need to cut them before 2025.

Do you have any advice on how to ensure the logs have the right moisture content by spring? I was thinking of killing the trees next week (removing a strip of bark to kill the tree and let some sap drain), felling them in a month, cutting my beams in January, and working with them this summer. Do you have any recommendations, advice, or warnings?

thanks :)

I grew up in and now live in another timber frame. One of the best parts is always finding the faces in the wood. Happy Halloween.

Does anyone have any opinions on deciding between either of these planers? Working with chainsaw milled wood, most of it will need squaring and planing. Unfortunatley it's a remote area so everything will need to be done with a power planer.

Mostly using 6x timbers so the width of the any of the planers isnt a huge concern.

The Makita would have to be imported and the Triton can be bought locally. Work out roughly the same price.

Main considerations are the blades for the Triton - I've seen carbide blades shatter really easily in other power planers.

Hey folks,

Just wanted to share my first time working on a timber frame project last week. We were building a workshop using larch beams. The wood was super dry, all twisted up with big cracks, but with some careful measurements and a pro with 20 years of experience leading us, it all came together pretty smoothly.

Gotta say, I loved every minute of it. It felt like something I could really get into, whether as a hobby or maybe even a job (been thinking about switching from IT to woodworking, but still figuring that out).

Turns out, this is where a man can find real peace for his soul.

As an added bonus, the project took place in a picturesque setting - we were working in an awesome old Russian village. Black wooden houses with white window frames, some of them 250-300 years old. The views, the air, the autumn forest and lake nearby - all was like from a dream.

https://preview.redd.it/kjyt0b7hfvud1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e136f4fb11888adc64db09cee70b935cd7fc689

I'm designing a small home (50x50x50 building, excluding basement), and trying to get a feel for the general costs with the size of the project. ((location is Maine, about 30 minutes north of Bangor)

I can only go so far with basic knowledge and blocking out general design. So I figured the next steps towards getting a timber framed home would be approaching a structural engineer or someone specializing in timber frames.

But I'm having trouble getting a feel for the general costs involved with the next steps.

Would anyone happen to know how much I could expect to move forward with something like this? First to get actual plans made from the rough design, and then (if possible to tell), what sort of costs would be involved with getting all of the timber frames cut and put up?

https://preview.redd.it/tov0mr4djfud1.png?width=1846&format=png&auto=webp&s=bf816ca2a84ed95ebb93c60824b7a8748acb5e67

Are this wood "good" for timber framing?

Perfect i know is not, low density and not really good durability..

but in a framing structure without contact with water and sun, is gonna last 20years at least?

I'm about to spray a penetrating sealer on a douglas fir interior: ceilings & walls, 3300 square feet total.

BIOSHIELD 03 Resin + Oil Stain finish

-vs-

HERITAGE NATURAL FINISHES Original

I've heard from one person that Bioshield blotches if it's overlapped - can anyone confirm or deny?

I've got a Greco x5 airless sprayer for this.

Heritage sounds so easy to get on, am only hesitant because it's a bit darker than the Bioshield 03 when applied.

Thanks in advance for any experience/anecdotes.

Love this tool. I have looked at having one made in case mine wears out or breaks. Glad to see it available once again.

Looking for opinions on what timber to use for my build. Location is tropical island, we have termites and borers. I have to import timber either way. First option is H3 Treated pine, plenty of homes are built here with it, local carpenters say it’s fine unless it gets wet then termites will eat it. Second option is reclaimed untreated meranti and balau, I’ve found a supplier in Malaysia who reclaims old buildings and has a warehouse full of this. Cost is about the same so not a financial decision. What timber would be less susceptible to termites in your opinion? Also would the ease of working with pine over hardwood make a difference to you?

Switching to do some timber framing. I am new to this but done regular carpentry for 20 years. How long would it take to build a 10’ x 8’ front entry porch? I felt it would take about 7 days.

What should I do with all this timber frame scrap wood?

Found on an 1806 frame in Vermont, while repairing sheathing.

Would this be 16, X and V and I, with the X and V combined? The adjacent stud has the same mark but lacks the I.

anyone know of timber frame companies in the pacific northwest who are currently looking for apprentices? i’m a commercial carpenter but i’d like to try timber framing

Everything pinned with 5/8 rebar. So far, ok, no finesse at all involved, the tractor had all it could do to lift the oak logs. 😀

Title says most of it. I'm thinking about starting with a pergola over my raised garden beds to learn the basics. Then I'd like to build a pavilion or larger shed. Any advice is appreciated!