Good afternoon everyone. I come with a simple question. I'm going to be making alot of box joints. I've seen the simple pin jigs used with dato stacks and a cross cut sled on the table saw. However my ainceint jet cabinet saw blew a capacitor last night and I won't have a new one untill next week and I would like to get this started this weekend. Is there any reason I can't set up this same jigs for the router table and use a 1/4 straight bit and use the same methodology. I've seen alot of joint jigs for the router table that are pretty adjustable and intricate but I'm not looking to put that kind of time and effort into getting these done. I'd like to slap a quick plywood jigs together that will more than likely get thrown in the corner with the rest of them to be used again mabey in 6 years. Seems like this should work fine. Am I missing somthing?

Thanks in advance

I'm planning out a murphy door design and I'm wondering if I can have the hinges in the middle of the bookcase, with the door frame in the front "half" of the bookcase, and ~6 inches poking out the back.

https://preview.redd.it/qxy0l3svwytd1.png?width=336&format=png&auto=webp&s=0789a92af7cc26ef03fe5377a04e678f9202301c

https://preview.redd.it/talbpvwywytd1.png?width=480&format=png&auto=webp&s=7c837569a34f5574dc8ba7c7e2e313f649660607

https://preview.redd.it/jrgjvyyzwytd1.png?width=1276&format=png&auto=webp&s=965338563856eb770d56471476cf8ddf22a00594

https://preview.redd.it/4s1f6ou0xytd1.png?width=638&format=png&auto=webp&s=0ea92c1fd12c34200061ed944a5ce5e27a4848de

https://preview.redd.it/62zvkw82xytd1.png?width=540&format=png&auto=webp&s=70d66a197874e51b6fb80a666577e30a2fa498e5

I need to do a lot of box joints and this seems like the cheapest and easiest method for me (beginner without equipment) can I buy that router attachment or is that something I'd have to make myself?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DA25Hhnyibb/?igsh=MWhrbHFkb3B3bjFq

Basically now I have this layer of oil that I can feel when I run my hands over the wood. Like certain areas just have too much and it's not smooth. A little bit tacky too.

Will this "go away" on it's own in a reasonable amount of time? Let's say a few months.

How about if I just rub mineral spirits or use steel wool but I don't apply anymore oil afterwards?

I've also heard of using a hairdryer to heat it back up and rubbing it off again.

I really just don't want to have to refinish the whole thing again even if it's just another layer.

Newby/DIY type. Looking to get a table saw - portability an important concern for me. I'll be using this for small jobs around the house, so I don't need a contractor-quality table saw. Based on a lot of posts here and online research, I've decided to go with the Skil TS6307-00. Looking at the prices online, it seems like everyone (everyone legit) offers this for $299. I was hoping that Amazon or someone else might offer a discount on this during their October Prime Days but no luck. Is there a time when this saw might go for a lower price, like during Black Friday sales, or should I bite the bullet now and just get it for $299. Thanks.

Hi all, I have built my first workbench with zero previous experience. This means that approximately 10% into the project, I knew I should have done it differently. I did that with hand tools, in my small apartment, and wanted it to be semi-portable, so I assembled it glue-less and hardware-less, with castle joints, wedged angled mortise and tenon, and regular mortise and tenons.

The problem is that wanted to attach an apron to the tabletop, if possible also without glue. The apron will work as a back jaw for a vice I want to buy. Both panels are 30mm thick, which isn't a lot.
I thought about using "sliding" dovetails (I know sliding is not the term, but I don't have a better one) like shown in this video about 6 minute mark - https://www.thirteen.org/programs/the-woodwrights-shop/woodwrights-shop-french-work-bench-part-1/

https://preview.redd.it/5650072l3ytd1.png?width=1260&format=png&auto=webp&s=7352824f748e4a35b11dadc97a8c5174df217d13

However, the example has dovetail sliding from below, and I want it to slide from the front (ref. my professional sketch). In my mind it kinda works, I would just have to rotate the joint so that it would the apron would slide diagonally from the front and above.

And I can help but wonder if there is a better way to attach it. My last resort is just gluing it to the tabletop with dowels, maybe it won't make that much difference when I have to move the workbench. Or maybe, instead of mounting it on the face, should I rather mount it under the tabletop and attach it to the legs (and a stretcher), possibly with something like a bow tie?

How would you people solve this problem? Thanks in advance for every comment and advice!

I’m only kidding, she’s very supportive of my hobby.

Hi!

I have a project using 18mm poplar plywood that I'm joining using rabbets, glue, and brad nails. Despite being poplar, this specific project is going to get a clear coat, and I'm looking for inspiration on how to hide the little holes the nails leave. Thanks!

My dad had a reciprocating saw he let me take from him. Is it useful for beginner woodwork? Would it be a good idea to start with that? I don’t have much extra money to go rent or buy stuff so I wanted to start with what he has instead. If it’s not smart, then I want to just give it back him.

I have a small vice on the bench and I have lined the metal jaws with a couple pieces of poplar. I'm finding that work pieces often move and slip and wondering what other type of wood or material altogether would hold the work more securely (with more friction).

I just got into woodworking and have done some minor projects. I thought making a prop sword for the renaissance festival would be a good way to learn some new skills and also make something awesome.

The lumber I am working with is 3/4" thick x 3" wide x 48" long and is a hardwood. I need to taper the "blade" of the sword to gently come to a point as swords are wider at the hilt than they are at the tip. I also need to cut bevels into the blade to make the "edge"

For cutting purposes I have conceptually divided the cuts into 4 quadrants, each quadrant needs a 15º bevel so the whole edge of the blade is a 30º angle. from what i have researched to make such a severe angled cut on a table saw the best option is to turn the board on the 3/4" thick side, set the saw to a 75º cut and that should leave the board with the desired cut.

However, the issue i am facing is that i need to also taper the blade. if i could leave the 3" face of the board flat I found instructions on how to make tapered bevels, but in my case the taper needs to be on the 3" horizontal plane but to cut the bevel angles the 3" face of the board must be the vertical plane.

I've tried to diagram it here https://imgur.com/a/gxihqic

if anyone has any advice on how to make this work or knows a better solution I would be very grateful.

Edit: are vertical sleds a thing? I found this old wood magazine video and I feel like if I could fashion a vertical version of this it could do both the bevel and taper at the same time.

I acquired a portable job site PCB220ts the saw will not go up and down. It looks to be bound at the knuckle inside. Anybody else got the same similar experience

My wife is celebrating her sobriety anniversary very soon and would love to build her something as a gift. I'm a newbie and have limited tools and resources. I haven't built anything that came out square either so there's that but l'm also very broke as my wife and I can barely pay our bills, we just went through a very very hard financial situation and we're starting from the bottom all over again. Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone,

I have made a few projects before such as a few tables and cabinets.

However, my latest project was a low set gaming table for floor sitting. After about 6 months of use, I am realizing I would enjoy tatami floor chairs to go with it. I have some power tools and my dad has more (even more beneficial for woodworking), so that should not be an issue.

My main issue has been where to find a blueprint of tatami floor chairs. In the past, I have created my own blueprints…which have lead to some…interesting project results haha. This time, I would like to try to follow a legit blueprint.

TLDR: does anyone know where the best place to find blueprints is?

Thanks in advance!