Hello. I've got a guitar that plays very well. But for some strange reason I can't shake the fear of the neck to all of a sudden start to warp. I've been eye balling it both down the headstock and upwards from the bridge and the frets themselves look parralel to eachother. But it wasn't until I came across some old guitar forums talking about neck warps and whatnot. One guy suggested measuring the neck relief with feeler gauges on the low E and the high e. It hit me that all these years I've only been measuring at the low E by putting a capo on the first fret and putting a finger at where the neck meets the body. So right now I have the low E set at .006 inches and the high e at .002.

Now here is where the conflicting parts come in. Some say that uneven relief is common or if anything normal while other say that its a sign that the neck is warped or warping. The part that doesen't make sense to me is how that is a fair way to assess if the neck is warping considering that string gauges vary extremely (.11s - .52s). Wouldn't the tension be somewhat stronger on the bass side? E A D. Also, the low E is wound compared to the high e. Wouldn't the extra thickness of the Low E make the measurement between the 2 inaccurate because of that?

Is 4 thou of a difference significant enough that it could become a problem? Or what do you guys think? The guitar is closing up to 5 years old and has been played regularly and so far it hasn't become unplayable, it plays just as good as it always has even tough the frets are starting to wear down. Could perhaps a fret level "solve" this "issue"? I just can't shake the tought while scouring the Internet to find a definitive answer I almost feel as if it has placed a mental block in my playing at this point.

TL;DR There is more relief on the bass side compared to the treble side, is it a problem?

im going to be using Gouache, which is a kind of opaque watercolor, closley like acrylic but its water soluble. Will I ruin it?

Hello everyone, I feel like I’m probably just overthinking things but I thought maybe someone can give me some peace of mind.

I took my Epiphone Casino to a local luthier and he told me he worked on the action and the intonation. The I played it as soon as I got home and I thought it felt good but not really any better than when I first got it from Sweetwater so I thought that maybe it just didn’t really need the setup to begin with. So then I proceeded to take in my Gibson SG so he could set it up to slightly thicker strings so I could have it turned to Eb. It feels just the way it felt with it was in standard tuning so I thought it was good and didn’t really worry too much.

Fast forward a few weeks and the Casino started getting a ton of buzzing on the first fret. I took it back and he told me that it could have been due to changes in the weather which I guess made sense. However, he just messed with the truss rod and I feel like he turned it a lot seeing as how I usually see people commenting on here to not turn too much. The action also seems kinda high and he just eyeballed the whole time while he kept turning the truss rod.

After more research I decided to test out the intonation using the 12th fret on both of them and they were both off.

My main question is, could he have possibly done something that can’t be undone if I take it to a better luthier? I’m not really sure how I can tell if a setup is good or not. My buddy is telling me that he wouldn’t worry but that the poor intonation could be caused by an issue with the truss rod so that’s making me a little paranoid.

Like I said before, I feel like I may be overthinking but I’ve spent a lot of money on these two and I just want some peace of mind that I’m just overthinking haha sorry if there’s a lot of these posts already.

Current schematics state

Hi, r/Luthier!

tl;dr: Guitar with three active EMG SA (singles), 1 tone, 1 volume, outputs sounds without a problem, with pickup selector working OK, but, for some reason, tone and volume knobs do nothing at all when I rotate them. Schematics are in the attached picture. Can someone help me?

First of all, thank you for taking the time to read this. Note that I'm not a luthier of any kind, just a hobbyist who likes to fiddle with my guitar.

I'm trying to install active EMG SA pickups. Three singles, 1 tone, 1 volume. Pickup selector is EMG, pots too (I believe), though pots are old (as are the pickups/jack, can't afford new parts) and not solderless. The only brand new thing is the pickup selector, I bought it thinking it would make the installation process easier, but I guess it didn't. I soldered dupont connectors on the pots as I anticipated it wouldn't be so easy for me to figure out how to wire them.

The thing is: Guitar outputs sound without a problem (pickup selection works), but when I rotate the knobs nothing happens. Guitar volume stays the same, and so does the tone.

All the schematics I found online for EMGs are for solderless pickups, so that didn't help me much. I have no idea on how to solve this, and I've been lurking this subreddit for a while and see you guys are always very nice and helpful. Can someone help me figure this out?

Thank you! Really.

I just got a silvertone 1420 from the 60s. Pretty sizable crack here in the bridge.

Was told wood glue should be able to fix this one up for now. But I’m looking for some tips:

1. Before applying glue, should gently sand?
2. Applying water to the wood before applying the wood glue helps with adhesion?
3. What kind of clamps for this bridge does the community recommend?
4. Anything else I should know?

I would like to try to fix it, i think it’s doable for me. Any tips would be helpful. I plan on practicing on some spare wood before I try it on the actual thing.

Thank you.

I’m looking to replace the nut, mainly leaning towards tusq, but i’m just wondering which specific nut fits the best.

I was looking at them for making a stomp box. I really don't need a perfect sound for that. But it got me thinking, are the cheaper guitar/uke/violin piezos any good? Has anyone tried them?

TIA

Hello everyone!

I am looking for a good seller for waterslide sticker for my new custom kramer guitar that is getting painted. I found a few places Online but I wonder if someone has a recommendation that has a good quality and well... just be able to recommend.

Just to describe my desired decal is the Kramer 100st headstock logo but in red instead of gold and it has an extra logo for the guy's company who is painting my guitar :).

Thank you everyone!

I recently pickup up a Schecter bass w/EMG pickups, which I stripped when adjusting height. I bought #4 pickup screws, which seems to be a standard size, but they don’t fit.

In the image, the longer screw is what I’m looking for, and the shorter one is the #4. By my measurements, the longer screw is a 3-24 and 1 5/8” long. But I can’t find that size online. Am I way off? Can anyone ID the longer screw?

So, I am refinishing this 1965 Melody maker. Despite several coats of the water-based pore fill from stewmac, I noticed all of this open grain after 2 coats of lacquer spray.

I am finishing this and opaque TV yellow. My question is what I should do from here. Can I just proceed with finishing? I presume if I do that, these open grains will be apparent in the final finish. Can I do another type of pore fill at this point? Or is my only option to sand this back to bare wood and start over with a different type of pore fill?

So, I've been given this Epiphone SG special (made around 2005~2007), modded with SD Hot Rails on the bridge. It feels reaaaaally good playing (never had a SG before), but the pots are broken, so it's

Given it ha's only 1 vol and 1 tone, what would you say is the best wiring option for best exploring this setup, considering the neck pickup is a common LP standard humbucker?

Thanks for all the input.

Why aren’t these used more often? It’s seems like the ideal solution with the easiest access. Fender dropped it on the next gen Pro models. Why?

Hi folks, I did write a huge lengthy post about this but my phone decided to erase the whole damn thing before I managed to post it so apologies for this condensed run down:

Been having issues for months with my set up here, so decided to re do all the wiring after much research, hopefully getting it right this time. So before I go ahead, does this look right? I have a Fishman powerbridge, with the 3 way toggle, and powerchip preamp, then I have 2 humbuckers with a 3 way toggle connected to a push pull volume, which should split the coils, and a push pull tone which should reverse phase. Essentially I bought this for a steal during covid lockdown due to wiring issues, it came to me dead, no signal due to the wiring. I’ve tried twice to get it working right in the config id like but decided I need to rewire and try again, this time with diagrams I received from fishman and Seymour Duncan, however I want it to actually work this time hence why I’m asking the opinions of my fellow tinkeres if this diagram looks right? Note the yellow wires represent white wires according to Seymour Duncan Color codes, and you can ignore all the wires going to the powerchip volume pot, as this is just how fishman recommend you ground everything

Inherited this body for a project I wanted to start for a parts project, but was just curious what type of wood this might be?

I have some good ground going to the pot, but I see I severed some strands…. Is this going to be a problem?

I need a pickguard for a Gibson Super 4000. It is a longer pickguard compared to an L-5 pickguard, and should have a single hole for a floating pickup.

Where can I purchase one of these? Preferably in Europe.

Thanks in advance

Fingerboard has shrunk in width (or neck has bloated). Because I don't wanna replace the FB or neck, can I pull the frets, add binding, sand the binding down to the neck width, then refret instead?

Seems like a good idea to me.

The FB is peeling off the neck BTW so will need to re-glue also.