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Hi, long story short, a year ago I order a custom-made 28"3/4 Baritone Telecaster neck and body from Warmoth guitar, as stated on their website, their baritone conversion necks do not require any modification to be fitted on regular guitar bodies.

When both the neck/ body arrived, I sent them to my luthier so he could fit all the hardware, drill holes etc.. And He asked me if it was normal for the bridge holes to be located as usual even thought the guitar was going to have a Baritone neck, I said yes because Warmoth said so.

As you can tell from the photos, the saddles have to be set to the maximum height for the string not to freeze, also, the intonation screws are tightened to the max as well and even then, the intonation is not perfect. It's slightly off.

I never had a baritone guitar before, but looking at other models (cf last photo) you can really tell the bridge is set further back toward the end of the body. I'm thinking about having the same system installed on my guitar if necessary.

Also, if I was going for that modification, what would I gain tone wise and if at minimum a correctly intonated guitar ? I always felt something was off esp while playing in drop A which is what the setup is currently is while tuning up with the pitch shifter of my Quad Cortex for drop B/C.

In your opinion, is it needed ?

Hey guys, I have a question about the Seymour Duncan Phat Cat Silencer P90 pickups. Which wire is hot and which is ground? My multimeter is at work and Seymour Duncan’s website as well as the internet just wanna tell me how to wire the standard phat cat p90s the “none silencer” type with braided wire. Thanks guys/gal :)

So I can’t find a replacement neck for my short scale bass and I greatly prefer darker toned fretboards. This one is maple. Is it a terrible idea to stain it? Any advice? Thank you.

Doing a custom Les Paul build starting from an Epi LP Custom as a starting point. Replaced every single thing on the guitar with stuff I would choose to make it a dream for me to play in my style of music. I've done a little bit of everything before so no big deal but I'm on the last piece which is the nut.

The nut on the left is the factory plastic nut, the right nut is the geaphtec XL that said was a direct replacement for Les Pauls. Is this normal? It would cause me to have about a 1/16 gap between the nut and the truss rod cover. Not really aesthetically pleasing but I'm sure it would be fine. I'd rather know what nut to order that's a drop in part.

I’m trying to finish up an RD bass build and the nut fell off whenever I installed strings. I noticed it was adhered with super glue. So I glued it back on with some Gorilla brand gel super glue. Well, it came off again. My plan now is to lightly sand the nut and then area at the end of the fretboard and neck where the nut sits.

My question is, is there a better glue to use to adhere the nut to the neck? The nut is just butted up to the fretboard. There’s no slot like you’d have on a Fender neck. There’s neck is wenge shaftwood with bloodwood fretboard. It’s a Warmoth 2+2 neck.

Title says it all. I am not a professional and don't make or finish large volumes of guitars, but I like to occasionally build and finish kit guitars and parts-casters as a hobby. I'm wondering what people use for buffing out high gloss finishes without breaking the bank. I have tried hand-polishing (which is doable but brutally long and tiring, plus you are limited in the compounds you can use), as well as some of the common "drill attachment" sponge/pads (which I've found to not provide the greatest results). Is there something that's a step up from the drill attachments but not as expensive or space-consuming as a large stationary buffing wheel setup? Thanks!

Hey guys, I’m looking to buy a custom shop Les Paul from a friend, but it’s been sitting without strings for about a month. Do I need to worry about anything with the neck? Should I pass on it? It’s a very good deal but I don’t wanna have to deal with a neck that has twisted or is otherwise damaged. I’ve heard some people say it matters and some say it doesn’t, what do you guys think?

So I pulled the trigger on a super cheap bad cat Strat kit and I’m thinking of different ways to paint the body. I did my own kitchen cabinets and they came out phenomenal (I sprayed them with a water-based paint, but I also brushed different ones and they came out almost as nice. The paint is pretty phenomenal- it was called Benjamin Moore Advance a couple years ago. I think they might’ve changed the name). Why not use the same process on a guitar body probably put some sort of high gloss top coat on it when done. I mean, I have different kinds of spray guns and I can do it almost anyway I want to, but it’s winter and most methods need to be done outside. or at least someplace semi warm where you don’t live. This I could do over the course of weeks in my own basement. Brush a coat, sand it back, brush a coat, sand it back. Repeat until it’s nice,clear it. What’s the downside? Cost wise it should be cheap.

I'm working on converting a Squire tele I have laying around to a Terry Kath copy. I'm preparing to route the bridge single coil in it to a humbucker, but I also need to route the wire cavity to the control and am having trouble finding the dimensions of that spot. Does anyone happen to have a Telecaster with that configuration laying around that they wouldn't mind measuring that for me? Or better yet, if anyone has a routing template for that layout that could measure it, that would be awesome. Or, maybe you're smarter than I am an can understand the plans below to read the dimensions. I appreciate any help anyone can provide.

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Got the solo sgk-10 kit the other day. It’s really important to do a mock up when building a kit and measure EVERYTHING. The heel was slightly too long, so if I put a bridge on, the scale length wouldn’t have worked. The break angle on the neck wasn’t enough either, so at the bridges lowest point, the action would’ve still been too high. I carefully sanded the heel so now it fits perfect and the action and intonation will be perfect. Everything was coated in some sort of sealer so I sanded it off in the pocket so the glue would absorb better. The body contouring wasn’t quite as much as it is on a real sg so I sanded it to be a lot closer. I glued the neck in with marine epoxy because I’ve had a ton of success working with that stuff, and I had a ton left over. Then I sanded all the factory sealer off, then re sealed it before adding stain. It’s drying now. This build has been going really fast.

Hello, I’m working on a Strat with the following pickups installed:

Neck: Seymour Duncan SSL1 Middle: Texas Special middle RW/RP Bridge: Seymour Duncan Antiquity Texas Hot

The problem I’m experiencing is the middle + bridge pickup position does not have noise cancelling. It is definitely in phase but has 60 cycle hum. Neck + middle is working fine and sounds great, everything else is awesome.

Am I correct in the polarity?: SSL1 north wound, Texas Special south wound, antiquity Texas north wound.

When I flip the wires for the bridge pickup, now it sounds out of phase. What should I do? Many thanks.

P.S. I also have a Dimarzio FS-1 pickup lying around here, idk if that’d help matters.

Need a trusted decent Luthier to do a fret dress, and few modifications/electronics to a guitar i have. Any recomendations, central London preferred.

Would like a piece of rubber be best to avoid scratches on the neck? Or would you avoid some other cushioning material?

I'm getting into fixing my electric guitars on another level (not just intonation, string height, etc) so I don't have to pay all those bucks to a Luthier for all my guitars everytime they need a fixing. And I can do them to my liking and play style. I'm a gigging guitarrist.

I need to level and crown frets on old weared down frets as well on new necks, but I only want to buy one leverer.

I have my eye on the Fretbar Understring Fret and the Fingerboard Leveler (StewMac)

Out of these two which one do you recommend and why if you had to buy just one for the job?