Any tips or product recommendations for this type of handguard. It's holes are 11.32mm wide and is 4.60mm thick ( conversion 0.46in and 0.18in)

I have a 1907 Remington auto loader otherwise known as the pre model 11. I would like to use it for dove season but I have to use steel shot where I live. I know not every shotgun can handle steel shot. Would I be safe to use it or should I use one of my other shotguns.

I recently purchased a UTG 30mm scope which came with scope rings and also 30mm EGW low profile rings. First off the fucking scope tube is not actually 30mm which the box states it is larger which is about 32mm and the scope rings even the EGW ones are short 28mm so the entire situation is fucked. I even tried lapping the rings and hand sanding carefully to increase the internal diameter to no avail. Also for some reason the lapping bar from wheeler engineering which is apparently 30mm actually has a larger diameter than 30mm and I bought it from wheeler engineering!

( I am by no means a noob or a bubba)

What do you guys recommend I do….

A 1910 St Etienne Mle1892 revolver who have been nicke plated, but happens that whatever who did the job made a really poor job, the nickel covered all the marks and the St Etienne scribed at the side Now I'm trying to find a way to remove that nickel without doing any bad to the revolver structure

Bought my first firearm (Canik Mete MC9) about 8 weeks ago from my LGS, I ordered a red dot (Mecanik MO1) the next day, through it on with blue locktight, went to a range had a great time, but the sight needed to be zeroed. I waited until I got a new front sight to have it serviced for both (front sight replacement & rds zeroing) at the same time at the same LGS with the same guy who sold me the pistol. My gun is returned to me with my rds not working, and my front sight looking like this. Now since this is my first gun and my first time with a gunsmith I'm not exactly sure on my next course of action. Sorry if this post doesn't belong. Just kinda don't know where to go.

Just got back from the range and this piece seems to have a spring that broke, the piece spins freely making it so my mags don’t seat in all the way. I also made it flush and put the mag in then it got stuck and was hard to remove, if anyone can help me i would appreciate it!

I have a colt model 1877 lightning that I’m having some issues with and I’ve narrowed it down to two parts. I found them for sale here https://jackfirstinc.com. But I don’t know if I trust them.

I have a $970 barrel with HALF of a choke inside of it, looking for ideas to get it out. I have a compression tube I designed and 3d printed with TPU (semi-flexible/grippy plastic similar to a rubber tire) see the pictures. When you twist the bolt in a section of the tube bulges out and tries to grip the remaining part of the the choke.

I have tried soaking it in Hoppes #9 overnight, cleaning it out, then tried the compression tube, once compressed it seems to grab fairly well, but as soon as I put a lot of pressure as I try to unscrew the choke, the compression tube just spins around inside not grabbing the choke. I rough sanded the end of the compression tube and still not enough grip to spin the partial choke out. I also looked at a product called "Choke Demon" from the UK, but the pictures there show the gnarled part will be too far up in the barrel. Are there any other products/hacks/tricks this audience may know?

1st photo from top to bottom: broken part of choke that came out, compression tube compressed to show where it bulges, the barrel (Berretta A400 Xcel), another complete choke for reference

2nd photo from left to right: compression tube, the transparent design so you can see what's going on inside, and the bolt/nuts I happen to have laying around used to compress the tube.

https://preview.redd.it/gv7kl16vonod1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=170ccc29589c498b9c65eb25bc91a827f8f93858

I'm looking to build a custom p365, and to save some money as well as work around some startling reliability concerns with the FDEZ barrels. If I can get a local machine shop to help me, can I safely replicate their products without the cost or risk by modifying a stock barrel?

Thank you!
https://fdezwerx.com/p365-fuse-non-lci-ported-4-3/

First time doing any work. Recently replaced the barrel and stock on a Savage 110 30-06. Made sure new barrel was good with headspace - go/no-go gauges. Everything was checked to torque specs. Checked feed and fire functions with snaps caps.

Now I’m getting ready to break in the new barrel. Any safety (or otherwise) checks I should do first?

The other exact model of firearms I've seen are flush and straight. Not my firearm, families. Thank you.

It’s just cosmetic, at least I think so. I pushed the sight back in after loosening the set screw (finally) and it went back in and back out no problem. Are there any other dummies in here that messed up their stainless and did you fix it somehow?

Doing a project with super bluing. My question does bluing Hurt/damage alkyd paint in any way?

Hey all, gunsmithing student here! (PTCC in mn). I've been working on my Beretta Whitewing and was wondering if anyone had any tool suggestions or general advice so I don't scratch it (any more than it already is) during reassembly. Also tips for identifying year would be appreciated. Thanks all!

Hi, so I have a Smith & Wesson .380 EZ Shield and I took the slide completely apart for the first time here just recently in 2 years. I expected to have issues with getting the extractor in, but the firing pin block is not capturing the firing pin in the slide assembly while I am putting it back in the slide. It is a headache and a half. Just when I think I have it in right, the firing pin block somehow shifts half way into the slide and the firing pin itsself and its spring go flying. Is there anything I'm missing to retain the firing pin so it doesn't pop out or do I have to just work with it? It was long over due for a deep cleaning and I don't wanna ship it to Smith & Wesson if I don't have to. It might just be ridiculously difficult manufacturing for an "EZ" pistol.

I have some untreated pallet wood. a digital electronic controller, computer fans and a heater element lying around.

At the moment my issue is that I have to leave my rifles unattended while i'm at work in order to get them to dry.

I saw a Midway USA video where he used used a drying cabinet to speed up the process.

Anyone built one? is it actually worth the effort?

cheers

My Affinity has a crack that is completely through. Is accraglas good enough to fix it?.

https://preview.redd.it/n6btz23gz0od1.png?width=721&format=png&auto=webp&s=4ffa1887f2eca22a8699978285650a73929eadd0

Hey folks, I'm (eventually) going to be going to Lassen College Gunsmithing program and they have a list of guns required to attend, probably because it would be financial suicide to try buying new guns every year and hand them to a bunch of apes learning gunsmithing. Of everything on the list for the first and second years, I have no idea what the three marked guns are, other than the examples given. If anyone could help, that'd be great, and thanks in advance.

I'm trying to put a spacer in between the wood stock and wood butt plate. It's a new gun and this is the first time removing the butt plate. The bolts look like slotted screws, but the slot is super narrow and my regular flathead screwdriver doesn't fit. Is there a special tool I need?

I know this is rudimentary, so apologies. I am not a gunsmith, just an owner looking to make a simple modification.

https://preview.redd.it/6jmkckp9z0od1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94a118de7bff105fad100e781451a2fc5953b1b5

As title said, I need a magazine tube for a Remington model 17. Numrich is out of stock and has been for a while. Does anyone know where to find one? Or does anyone know if an Ithaca 37 magazine tube would work (as they are similar models)?