I recently bought a used Franchi diamond, the front bead is missing , I was wondering if anyone knew the thread size for that

I've been looking for a vise/station for simple mounting scopes, cleaning, etc... from my own research I have narrowed it down to two that seem like the most common or popular choices. The Tipton Ultra Gun Vise or the Real Avid Master Gun Workstation. Both seem like good choices for what I need though I have read reviews that the Tipton clamps are held in position by friction and can slip when enough pressure is applied.

I was wondering if anyone would have any experience with them, what you would suggest or if there is a better third option similar to these products.

i want to get into gunsmithing but as a hobby instead of as a profession. Sonoran Desert Institute looks promising and I've heard a lot about it but I am concerned about potential workload since I am a Junior in high school and plan on going to college. Another option is the American Gunsmithing Institute, which seems to be a lot more promising as it is self-paced, and I would most likely do the Level 2 course. My main focus is on handgun modification(especially revolvers). I already have some experience with blacksmithing and welding, as I've taken some courses on both of those. It would be nice if there's anything I can do before I turn 18, as I have another year to wait for that. So, where's a good place to start?

Anyone know a good gunsmith to thread a model 94 barrel? Post 64 of course.

Any leads greatly appreciated. I’ve been looking since April.

Will the sten parts .com mk5 tube fit an Ohio ordinance sa bolt kit or do I have to buy the Ohio sten tube

Anyone have recommendations on start up equipment? I know this can be dependent on the work you do but I have a good base of tools and equipment but do yall have any recommendations?

I inherited a large ring hammer C96 recently and was looking for reputable gunsmiths that can clean up and check on the condition of the pistol. Are there any recommendations in the western US preferably? Or anywhere in the US?

Just finished putting this 1911 together and the slide seems to be locking forward and unable to move unless you slam the slide into something, the pins,springs,guide rod are all in place as should be any suggestions help!!!!!

Probably won’t.

So I recently started a new job and because of a report I did on submachine guns I got tasked with modifying and modernising a failed project from the 90s, most people in my department think it’s useless and impossible but for my pride I need to do what I can. I need to increase the rate of fire and muzzle velocity as minimum. I’m looking for books and also advice how to achieve that.

Hey all. So I was cleaning out a closet in my house that I inherited from my Great Grandad, and under a pile of clothes I found a Webley Mark VI. She looks to be in excellent condition, and there is some ammo for it, but is there any way I can evaluate it to determine if it's safe to shoot?

I have a smith and Wesson model 65-6 that I really wanted to buy. I am not familiar with s&w revolvers so idk if they all feel like this but my main reason to want to buy this was because of how moth the single action trigger pull was. Oh my god it was so light, best way I can describe it is if you put even the lightest touch on the trigger it goes off. Imagine a feather landing a trigger and setting it off, it was that smooth. BUT…. The gun has scratches, I should’ve taken a better picture but this is the only one I took. I’m supposed to meet up with this guy in two weeks at the next gun show to buy it but am i overreacting about the scratches? Gun comes with an extra set of the same grips and the original box.

Great grandpappy's model 12 just came my way allegedly from 1912 and rebarreled in '25. I understand it was refinished in BLO round a hundred years ago and likely not touched since. Feels pitted and dry and I'd like to make sure it's still gorgeous in another hundred. Was thinking I pull the stock and foreend and wash with dish soap, steam any bad spots with a wet washcloth and iron, then wipe with BLO/cure/repeat till it's good and add a new coat every year or two? I have a few other rifles and shotguns from the 50s to early 2000s I'd love to maintain as well, but not sure how to look up what finish is on them. Thanks for the help!

I am looking to replace the A2 flash hider on my RDB with a KeyMicro muzzle device for future use with a suppressor. I am running into an issue with the jam nut that comes stock on the barrel. Without the jam nut the barrel threads are too long for the muzzle device to get to the shoulder and I don't have enough shims to make up the difference. With the jam nut on I can not get a wrench in to tighten down the muzzle device meaning I'll need to get a thinner crescent wrench than what I've got to make it work.

My question is whether I am better off with about 3/16" worth of shims between the barrel shoulder and the muzzle device, or just leaving the jam nut on. I'll be heading to a hardware store either way and I am looking for opinions as to which would be the best option

Hello. I recently purchased a Henry Big Boy .357 model X and everything about it is great except the length of pull. As a shorter guy I would prefer the stock to be a bit shorter.

My question is what is the viability of trimming down a synthetic stock and if it is viable should I try it or should I find a gunsmith near where I live. Another question is for a guy that's around 5'7/5'8 what would yall think would be a good length to trim it down to. Thanks in advanced!

I have a nagant revolver that has a ruff cylinder. I’ve tried cleaning it up with steel wool and oil but it hasn’t help. I have some ultra fine scotch brite pads. If I’m careful would that work. Or should I just go at it more with steel wool.

Howdy yall, I’m currently trying to fix my glenfield model 60 .22

About 10 years ago it was taken apart and I’m pretty sure a spring was lost by me, my cousin said it was a specific spring but he couldn’t find it online.

Symptoms are it will only fire when turned upside down and given a shake, it has no trigger and it won’t reset until this is done.

https://imgur.com/gallery/9fov6l4

It’s been awhile since I’ve used my 870, it’s chambered in 2 3/4” 12ga so if I put a 12ga 3” barrel on it then it takes 3” correct and will the slide handle the larger shells (not magnum). I thought about getting a benelli M4 but for 2500.$ I could get a lot of Remingtons lol

[SOLVED]

My friends sks is having some issues. He was uninformed and shot a significant amount of likely corrosive ammunition through the rifle and then let it sit for 2-3 days before cleaning it.

Its of course now my job to make it work again as he isn't aware of how to fix it.

I did a deep clean and oil of the rifle (ultrasonic bath for the carrier and a lot of barrel scrubbing) and attempted to test fire it.

on the first round I got a light primer strike and attempted to rechamber the round. I got another light strike on the same round and found that the bolt had locked up requiring me to mortar the rifle to clear the chamber.

Back at home I completely disassembled the rifle yet again to inspect the parts for any damage and found nothing obviously wrong with the rifle.

After re assembling the rifle and testing with snap caps Its still consistently locking forwards, often requiring significant force (bashing it on the floor) to get it to open up again.

I want to say the success rate of getting the bolt open on the first pull is around 20-30%.

The other thing I have observed is that the bolt is quite stiff in general and gets noticeably harder to pull back around the half way mark.

He isn't in the financial state to be able to take it to a gunsmith but I am open to replacing some parts out of pocket for him if needed.

Photos can be requested and any help is greatly appreciated.

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EDIT:

The issue was likely a dirty/corroded chamber. My guess was it was hugging the round and without momentum it was impossible for me to get it out.

It was fixed by letting the whole receiver/barrel assembly sit in low power rust remover for a few hours then do the normal cleaning routine with a 30cal brush and hoppe's #9

The rifle has been test fired since and cycles with no issue

I've tested a new spring in the back and it solved the issue with it being so stiff also, a new one has been ordered.

Measurements were taken and everything seems Perfect as of now.

Thanks to everyone that left suggestions.

https://preview.redd.it/0wmsp7l8sg4e1.png?width=413&format=png&auto=webp&s=cbd0ee643de1789a698f6ba4d4e27aef2be1cef7

specifically this part . i have a lower frame but lack these parts . I would be glad if you guys could provide me with some blueprints

it would be great if you could provide me with the measurements too