Thinking about expanding my skill set and interested in playing with horn stock tips, trigger guards and butt plates. Realized my collection of books on stock making (or any gunsmith related references) rarely does more than make passing reference to it outside of heating horn to 320-350f cooking oil/large before shaping.

Just curious if anyone has a good suggestion for me to acquire.

got a pretty badly pitted s&w 686 stainless steel. i know there really isnt a way to fix it but was wondering if there were somthing to fill or blend it.

Any suggestions? First revolver and I can’t figure out how to get the grip off. I took the screw out and the bolt but I can’t figure out how to get it off without damaging the grip or frame.

Despite my best efforts, a small amount of rust has taken hold of my rifle bolt after several days of hunting in heavy rain, some underneath the firing pin spring and a little around the extractor. I've read evaporust is really good for applying on guns, especially a stainless steel rifle like I have, but I'm wondering if there's any downside to using it on the bolt body and around the extractor. Basically, because the body when the bolt's disassembled is an open tube ending with the bolt face, there's no good way that I know of to thoroughly clean the body out and dry it (except by placing it in a warm environment and waiting), especially around the (sakko style) extractor where there are nooks and crannies that could hold onto liquid (exactly why rust has taken hold). Am I way over thinking this, and will the evaporust eventually dry off? Any ideas on how to ensure all the rust is removed from around the extractor (short of removing it) and from inside the body, if there is any since I can't see in there very well? Thanks

Sorry probably not in the right are but hopping for some direction I'm looking for blueprints for building a break-action side by side 12 guage shot gun, something late 1800s. It's going to be a nonfunctional prop but i want it as close as I can get it. Contest requirements are that i have to build it myself. So looking for something with measurements at least for the metal assembly I have directions on building a stock. That has been fun and agrivating

Greetings. Looking for info and advice. So ive got a rossi R92 that was originally chambered in 38 spl only. Took it to a well reputed gunsmith to find out of it can be reamed to take .357 mag as well. Guy takes a look. Does some measurements and says sure thing. Give me a week and you'll have it back. Cool. Leave the rifle there. A week later i get a call and i all is well. Test fire everything is perfect. Were using winchester super x 357 mag. (Never used it before as i dont like winchester ammo in general but this was what they had) Go to the range last weekend. This is where the fun starts. Gun wont chamber my reloads. Pmp semi jacketed flat points. Or speer gold dot. 38spl still chambers fine as does the winchester ammo. Take the gun back they tell me that it was done to sami spec and making it chamber the other bullets will wreck the gun (bs but anyway) I've got the tools to measure a chamber but im having trouble finding the correct sammi chamber specs for a 357 mag in a rifle as opposed to a revolver.

Added info i have a hi power kapitan model in for some work as well that hasn't been completed yet so fighting with him is tricky.

Pics of the chamber as it currently stands

Picked up this Iver Johnson at a gun show and I’m not sure what I have going on, I go to put my shells in and they jam right before the brass and become super hard to shove in, never had a gun this hard to load. Been this way since I got it.

Hello all, I heard recently that with the wheeler dove tail cutting kit you can cut your own dovetail sight slots in without the use of expensive, has anyone used it? And if so how’d it do/how hard is it to use?

Any idea what this part is?

re Stoeger STR-9MC

Hi All, last week bought my first new pistol after owning several vinatge ones, and am having an issue. Mine does not always reset the trigger when the slide goes back and returns. I haven't fired it as yet, just racking it by hand. At first, it would happen 1 in 10 times. Now it's about 1 in 50, so it appears to be getting broken in by hand.

This is my first striker fired pistol, and I have determined the connector doesn't always go back far enough or release the trigger bar. On the connector, can I remove a hair of material, or round over the edge of the trigger bar in hopes it works better? Can I bend the little tab on the connector closer to the slide bump to get more engagement when the slide goes back?

Any tips are appreciated.

My dad has a few walnut slabs that my great grandfather milled way back in the day. He floated the idea of having custom stocks made eventually. I was wondering whether anyone knows an expert stock maker, I'd like to talk with one to determine whether the wood would be suitable for stocks. I will get pictures of them in the near future. They're roughly 3" thick and ranging in lengths between 4' to 8'. As far as I remember they weren't too knotty. It's black walnut from Pennsylvania. Bonus points for someone local to western PA.

Quick question -- what NAICS code is everyone under for business insurance reasons?

Edit: thanks you guys, sounds like i need to start packing for montana or something, or i could stay here and keep my projects to myself…

I live in California, but I want to get into gunsmithing really bad. I’m about to be 19, I have my hunting license but I’d like to make handguns too. Is there anyone on here that is below the age of 21 and lives in a really restrictive state and does gunsmithing? I’d like to know any problems I’d run into other than buying handgun ammo. Thanks

Zeroing my optic on my St. Victor AR-15 with a laser bore site device. Placed device in the chamber and closed the breach all gentle like. Laser stayed on for like 5 minutes while I fiddled with the optics. Laser turns of/goes out so I go to pull the charging handle back and it's stuck. I can unlatch the catch on the charging handle and it will move maybe an 1/8th of an inch, but no further. The charging assist will push the bolt forward about an inch, but nothing more. Tried everything I can think of to open the breach, but no obvious tricks seem to work. Took the upper off and still can't get it to loosen. Used a cleaning rod to push the device backwards from the barrel, but no luck there either. I have refrained from using a lot of force, as I don't want to make matters worse or break something else. Any help or advice appreciated.