My buddy bought an armelagant BLP-12m

He took it apart to clean it and when he put it back together I’m guessing he didn’t do something correct because the slide will come back but it wont lock in place, the trigger messes with the safety as well.

I have no idea whats going on with it so any help/tips is much appreciated

Hey guys, appreciate the help here. Just got my Mossberg 22LR barrel back from being threaded. Won't name who/where just yet

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/lmO4pTT

I'm not concerned with the sharp edge of the shoulder. Can easily take a jewelers file to that and soften it, and I actually prefer doing that myself. I don't have my 22 suppressor yet, so can't check concentricity just yet.

One thing concerned me though: when I put the thread protector on, it felt very wobbly and loose until tight against the shoulder. I pulled an A2 flash hider off an AR and it felt similarly as I threaded it onto this 22 barrel.

I also swapped the flash hider and protector onto the factory threaded AR barrel. There was wiggle too but not nearly as much.

Tried to capture it in a video here: https://imgur.com/a/3hG06Y1

Is this still OK, and maybe just on the low end of the spec for 1/2x28" threading? I got this threaded for use with a suppressor so just want to make sure it's OK and not risk ruining an expensive purchase. I assume 22 suppressors don't have tapered threads?

Thanks guys

Hello. I'd like to start out by saying I'm no expert but would like some feedback.

I recently aquaired an older marlin 39a with the microgrove barrel.

I could tell this firearm was not as accurate as my other 22s, and I'd say my henry makes groups on average 33% smaller with open sites.

Frustrated I bought a rail and mount an older scope to the marlin and shot some at 50 yards. The best stuff grouped at 1.1 inches, The worst to about 2 inches.

I tried(ranked in the best order) cci stingers, federal automatch, browning fragmenting, cci minimag 40gr, cci blazer 40 gr, cci blazer 38 gr, browning pro.

I ran a slug down the barrel with a wooden dowel and measured the grove diameter at .222/.221. I do not have a fine point micrometer to measure the lands depth. Besides the first few inches, the slug push through almost effortlessly. No hardening towards the crown. The barrel was cleaned prior to this. No oil was used on the slug.

I did the same thing to 2 other 22s, a newer henery 22 and a 1940s stevens rifle.

I noticed both of these tightened as it reached the crown. Also, the slugs measured about .001 larger than the marlin.

It may be the micro groove barrel is designed different, but my thought is maybe somewhere in the barrel, closer to the chamber, it restricts, causing the bullet to squeeze down smaller than the crown diameter, which is why I'm not getting accuracy how I would expect

An inspection of the barrel tells me there no pitting, but the lands appear to look chattered, not mirrored, like on my other 22s. This is the microgrove barrel, am I'm not too familiar with how they should look.

From what I can tell, the firearm was shot little from its time of manufacture in 1980. I have probably put another 3 or 400 rounds through it.

I guess my question is, is there a way to tell if this barrel is oversized or inaccurate for any reason? It's alittle disappointing to find its just not grouping how I was expecting.

Maybe my expectations are just too high...

Curious on everyone's thoughts. Thanks

Image is an attempt to show the chatter marks on the lands

Ignore my crude drawing

Remington 870 issue with displaced shell latch

Hello, this piece came out of my 92XI Beretta and I don’t know from where. Any help please?

The magazine is not springing out as strong as it used to and I’m checking around that area.

My dream gun is a Thompson 1928 and I just wanted to know a few things

1. Should I buy the different parts and put them together or should I build from scratch

2. How difficult would it be built

3. Estimated cost I'm kinda on a budget so I won't something price friendly but also reliable

4. Can I make one simi auto I don't want to have to wait a year and register with the ATF and spend more money on something I'm happy just having in Simi auto and turning full auto later when the background check and everything is done

Thanks for replies I am new to this and I feel like older guns would be a great start to learn

I’m an aspiring gunsmith currently in the process of learning the trade and could use some advice. When repairing a firearm if I damage a component that I’m am working on for a customers firearm and have to replace it do I charge them for that component or cover the cost myself. And yes I would disclose that I was responsible for the component being damaged and that the component was replaced.

I want a slip on cheek riser on my stock but it looks like i need to take my stock off to put the riser on and but back on. Will this affect any bedding of the receiver that may have been done. Anything i should be aware of?

I own a G2 Combat by Pindad, and I'm looking for anything i can add to this weapon on the external parts, so no spring or barrel changes, can anyone give suggestions?

I disassembled my hellcat pro to put on tyrant trigger. While I was taking the main spring house thing for the trigger off a spring and pin came flying out at me. I have watched lots of videos and looked in the manual. The disconnector pin is mentioned in manual as part 18 but no one shows on YouTube. The spring mentioned as part 17 I believe. In the below photos there is a hole but it is an extremely loose fit and comes flying out or falls out. Did I break something or am I just dumb and not seeing something glaringly obvious. I don't want to wait 2 months for a gunsmith to fix it. Please help.

https://preview.redd.it/gds87ebq78pd1.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ec64854871478fa026754d0295c4e29ba1b5add

It's an 1869 Swiss Vetterli rifle, and I'm just wondering if anyone would have any leads on some old school ammo for it? I know its expensive, it's mostly for display, and I'm looking for atleast 10 rounds to show off with it.

Either that or some how convert it to firing .44 Magnum lol.

Hey everyone, I have a Remington b2000 and am having the darnest time finding a rear stock bolt. Twice I thought I found what I needed and turned out they both were not even close.

I have found a schematic with a part number but couldn’t actually find the bolt based on that part number.

I had someone suggest a browning bar rear stock bolt but that was way too small length wise. Than had someone else suggest another bolt which was too short and not the right threading. I literally have this shotgun recondition and ready to go I just need this stupid rear stock bolt.

Any help is appreciated!

Was shooting with my Garand yesterday and only got ~60 rds before the trigger became completely dead, I took the gun apart and found a pin lodged against the stock. It looks like it has cracked the stock with how forcefully it was lodged in there. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Hey y'all. I have been working since I was 16 and I have only worked 1 job that I truly enjoyed. Every day, when I wake up, I look in the mirror and I tell myself that I CAN find something I love to do and that all I have to do is look and ask for help. So here I am, doing just that. I am located in Texas (DFW) and would like to become a gunsmith. I know that is a long road, but I want to do it! I love to shoot, I find guns fascinating and I would love to be able to fix'em up, restore'em, sell'em, and/or shoot'em. If anyone knows a gunsmith in or near DFW that would be willing to take on an apprentice I would absolutely love to get in touch. I have basic knowledge of guns and modifying them, but definitely have a long way to go as far as my knowledge and mastery of the craft goes.

What tool do I need to remove this bolt? For those wondering it’s a Tula MTs 21-12. This is the only part I’ve never been able to remove

Hi,

I've looked at a couple of yoube videos on Stevens Single Shot Shotguns restorations.

It looks like there's two springs in the action. Main spring for the hammer. And the locking mechanism spring.

So my guess is that I'd have to replace the locking mechanism spring in order for the lock to lock the barrel properly, so it doesn't open automatically after firing.

Would that be correct?

And, I think there might be one or two small springs under the "thumb lever" that opens the barrel. Would that be one of those springs that'd help the locking mechanism to lock better?

Full marking :
Nitro Special
J. Stevens Arms & Tool Co
Chicopee Falls, Mass, U.S.A.

Hello!

I had a Marlin 1895 sent off for warranty work due to the front sight not being at noon.

The sight being canted to the left when aiming. Maybe 11:50-11:55. I was still able to zero it at close to max adjustment.

The barrel was reclocked to noon and it shoots Leverevolution 325 grain without issue.

However, I want to try some HSM +P 430 grain ammunition. Probably the hottest boxed ammo we can get in Canada.

Looking back, they never listed a headspace spec. I assume the barrel was "loosened" to correct the sight orientation ergo my headspace should have increased.

Is this something I should get checked before going hot?

Warranty in Canada is much more difficult then the USA. We couldn't get a barrel shipped here in any reasonable time (ETA forever, 6 months just to have work done) that was why it was reclocked.

Well guys, I got the chamber finished. The attached pic shows a very light line that was the only remaining damage from when the reamer broke.

After sending my two broken reamers back to PT&G for an RMA, they ended up sitting on them for a little over a week. I had to call several times to get an update. I would normally be a little more patient as they had been helpful, but I had a customer waiting and a deadline to meet.

I eventually spoke to the same machinist I spoke with earlier. He found my RMA'd reamers and examined them, and came to the conclusion that it was likely a faulty batch of tools. I asked him how confident he was of this, and he said "very".

The replacement reamer arrived shortly thereafter. This one was chosen from a different DOM than the two that had failed. Before turning my attention to the barrel I checked my tailstock alignment, both to my live center and the morse taper. It was off (tailstock high) by .005". I machined the base down and now I am aligned within .001" (.0005" off center). I also checked that the machine was still level, and it was.

I started reaming the barrel by hand and not under power, just to knock down the high spots from where the tool dug in. Last time I used the bore bar to get these out, but since I was close to finish diameter, I couldn't safely do so this time. I considered roughing the last little bit, and hindsight I probably should have. I figured I was close enough to finish depth that it wouldn't save time. I then started reaming under power with a .050" peck. As recommended, I was watching for equal cutting by all flutes. One flute was doing approximately 80% of the work. This caused the flute to pack up very quickly. I moved to a .020" peck after this. This was very time consuming.

I finished reaming, put everything together, and just today test fired the rifle with the customer. The brass exhibited no signs of dragging, chambering and extraction was very smooth. Needless to say, we were both happy.

Takeaways from the experience:

PT&G is convinced the failures were of their own fault, due to where both the reamers broke. I will continue to do business with them.

Tailstock alignment was likely a contributing factor. I do not believe it was the main reason the reamers failed, but I could be wrong. It is hard to deny that misalignment will change how a reamer cuts. It's just been my experience that the importance of chucking reamer alignment and runout are often overstated.

.050" peck may have been too aggressive with reamer #2. It certainly was with reamer #3. I will be roughing future chambers with a twist drill and bore bar.

Anyways. Just wanted to share as much info as possible on my experience. Hope somebody finds this helpful, or at the very least, interesting.