I had a couple of my friends’ antique rifles at my house while he’s traveling. Unfortunately we had a pipe break, and even thought they were stored in what seemed like a safe area, they got wet and rusted. Is there anywhere in Utah that has a reputation for doing good work on high-gloss blueing? Southern Idaho would work too. Friend is being super cool about it, but repairing them is the right thing to do.

Hey guys, just chasing up a question for the amount of coats for a rifle stock. Also after varnishing should I put anything else on the stock (e.g wax) or should it be good to go? TIA

I may have not been thinking clearly when trying to remove a bolt catch and used too small of a pin punch. Well, it broke off inside of the pin and now I cant get it out. I tried pulling it out with pliers and all I'm doing is making pulled pork out of the pin. I cant make any progress punching it out with the appropriate punch size. Do I drill it out?

Hi! I have a novel firearm design in mind and want to make it a reality. I don’t want to give a lot of details, so I’d really just like some questions answered :)

1. Do I need an FFL to prototype this gun? It’s a pistol and shouldn’t trigger any NFA regulations. I do intend to eventually sell it or a derivative of the prototype

2. Would whoever makes the parts require an FFL? If I have a type 7 does that mean I can order parts to be made using designs I make or have made by someone else?

3. Anything else you think might be helpful for me to know? :)

Thank you!

Has anybody on here ever sold parts to Numrich? I have a surplus of Smith and Wesson revolver parts.

Hello everyone, I just inherited my grandpa's 1954 30 06 721 and there seems to be a recall. I read on forums it's an issue with the safety, that the safety locks the bolt and then when you disengage the safety it will fire the round. I found posts that make it seem like mine isnt effect and some it does. If attempted to see if this happens, always not loaded and it hasn't. Any one have any experience with this? Is it safe it use at the range if I dont rely on or use the safety?

I have a brand new 10/22 rifle that I’m customizing, where should I sell the parts to get the most money for them? (Not trying to sell on here) just curious where yall sell your parts to if you do

I recently bought a savage axis 308 and when I was taking it apart I think this piece fell out can anyone help me with this?

Hey yall quick question for you guys. How much play is acceptable in an ar15 magazine I have some front to back wiggle along with side to side. I’ve tighten the mag release but it doesn’t seem to be doing much.

Hello! I've been having a bit of grief with a Spanish Mauser 1916 that I bought from GB a little while ago.

This gun was already a little roughed up, the front sight's protective wings (and possibly the sight itself) are bent and off to the right (and possibly held together with a piece of cut wire tapped into the pinhole?) and there's very clear signs of woodglue use on pieces of the stock. The gun also wasn't oiled very well, though I fixed that issue on my own.

The problem comes with the takedown. At some point I was considering trying to make a new stock for the gun, and therefor I need to get the INTERNALS off of the gun. The problem, however, is that the front barrel ring won't come off!

At first, I thought it was the cleaning rod (Which is the OTHER reason I want to get the wood off, pretty sure the threaded piece it screws into has come loose internally), but after taking another look, it's clear the ring and the metal cap the rod is in are two separate pieces. The issue now, is that it seems like the leaf spring is the problem here. I can press it down, but even with considerable effort, it doesn't seem like it's going down far enough to let the barrel band come off.

I have very little to work with here. I have Hobbe's and Ballistol, bought a crappy suction-cup vice, a screw clamp and a small hammer to try and tap it off, but beyond that I lack any proper gunsmithing tools to fix this. I would rather not bring this rifle to an antique gunsmith to get this fixed, if possible. Anyone have any ideas as to how to get this damn band off?

Bonus points if you can help me fix the cleaning rod issue at the same time. It's not immediate, as I THINK I can at least get the barrel off of this damned thing if I can get that front band off . . .

Fellas I'm looking at purchasing the LTT Trigger job in a bag and I'm having alot of trouble convincing myself that it's worth the price. I'm looking at doing the upgrade on a stock M9.

Is there a way to get some similar results at a more economical price?

Thanks

We r considering setting up a manufacturing facility. Which CNC machine do u recommend we use?

Just wanted to see some tools everyone has made. Whether it was on a Mill or a Lathe. simple or complex.

Hey all! A few months ago I came in possession of a Marlin 1894. By the serial number, manufacture date appears to be 2011, so relatively early in the Remington years. I believe the gun had never been shot prior to my acquisition of it, both because of knowing its general history and also because A - there were no marks even on the loading gate, and B - because the first dozen rounds or so I chambered I could feel the action smoothing out and getting easier to work.

A couple weeks ago I got a little more serious about sighting the gun in to use for deer season. Was having trouble grouping with the gun, but I had cheap russian surplus ammo at the time so I was blaming the ammo or my inexperience with buckhorn sights. For reference, I was grouping as good if not better with my 1911 at 100 yards than I was with the .44 at 25 yards.

I threw a cheap Tasco Sportsman scope on it to see if I could see any improvement, I did not. Shots landing all over. Retried the same test with a box of Hornady Leverevolution I picked up. Still not grouping well and zero was moving on me.

At this point I had ruled out ammuntion so I refocused on the sight. I removed the Tasco and borrowed a buddies Trijicon ACOG just to see if it would group for me. After adjusting the sight to it's maximum elevation, I was at least getting on paper. The best I was able to do was a 3" group at 25 yards, and still around 5-6" below my aim point. I got a similar result (~4" group) with the factory sights - several inches low with the rear sight adjusted all the way up. These results were confirmed with one more ammunition change, using some Fiocci .44.

At this point I have around 125 rounds through the rifle. I have looked down the barrel with a light to inspect the rifling. I can see starting about 1" into the barrel, there are three uniform spots on each of the lands across about a 1" length. Also, one land has a mark running as far down that land as I can see.

I'm at a loss. I enjoy shooting the gun, but if I can't hit my target then it's worthless in a practical sense. I wouldn't feel right passing it on down the road knowing the current issues. Not sure where to go from here, what to inspect, measure, try. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Looking to nickel plate a stripped pistol slide and frame. I have mostly seen guides on miscellaneous parts, but not necessarily guns. Is there any meaningful difference in the process for firearms?

Range day today was a bad day for my 1911, got through 10 rounds of 185gr +p hollowpoints before this happened.