So I recently been having a problem out of no were my battery started overcharging really bad and I thought it was the alt at first got it rebuilt didn’t work so next I got a ecu didn’t work so I took apart the wire loom and there’s no wires broken cleaned all my grounds that didn’t work replaced the temp sensor on the battery tray still nothing so I get a new alt new battery and still nothing looking for any advice at this point it sits at ideal fine when you rev it past 2 grand it over charges bad like 19vs

Just want to share what I noted when I first time change a factory battery on my WL with 5.7 some time ago. As you can see, the stock battery marked to charge voltage up to 14.4V. But, when I monitored the car voltage I see that during the change it shows 14.5-14.6. And on the new Duracell battery charging voltage marked as 14.6. Over voltage during charging significantly harms the battery. Even if it is just 0.2V. And it sounds as a reason why stock battery frequently dies so fast on those cars. What do you think?

I've a WJ, 2000, 4.0 (I'm not from the US, so its actually a WG).

My ABS (and park brake) lights are always-on in the dash. Also the speedometer doesn't work.

Recently I've been experienced that randomly one or two wheels (not the same, sometimes front left, some time rear left, sometimes front right...) after being long time in heavy traffic / jamming remains stuck (caliper and rotor becoming hot with the typical blue-ish color starting to appear on the rotor). If I stop the jeep and left it "cool" for a couple of hours issue disappears. Issue also disappears if I give some push/leverage to the caliper to separate the pads from the rotor.

There is no signs of any mechanical issue, calipers have been reviewed entirely (new o'rings, seals), hose lines are fine, everything looks ok. This was done after the issue happened the first time. Since then, it continued to happen, only after being like 20~40min under heavy traffic / jam. Under normal operation (daily driver) everything works perfectly.

So - Could a faulty abs control module generate this weird behavior? Is possible to actually disable it entirely without any other side effects than not having abs? Removing the fuse?

I have a 2011 jeep grand cherokee overland with thw 5.7l hemi. I am currently on stock rims with tire size 265/50r20, and I have been looking for new rims. I found some from a 2022 with the same tire size on them. Would these be able to be fitted on my car? Pic of the rims in question. Any help or adivice would be greatly appreciated!

Hi All,

Just need to vent. Typically i never had an issue leasing a car for my wife, I have had Volvo's, Acura's, BMW's etc. This time around she specifically wanted a Jeep Grand Cherokee L, so since October I have been officially in the market as my Volvo lease was maturing in November.

In the end of October I knew it was time to strike and found a great spec navy "Limited" model at a price I was comfortable with. Emailed the dealer my credit app, came back approved and then 10-15 minutes later he texts me that my car was actually sold. He said instead I could get a black one, fine with me. Then as I am about to add it to my insurance plan, they told me it is the Altitude model. Can't be, right? Yup the dealer gave the old switcheroo on Halloween. I cancelled the purchase, and dealer claims to have had no more 2024 models. My guess is they gave it to me too cheap, and covered their asses.

I gave him an earful and moved on to another dealer who is also local to me. It happens to be that November had very few incentives, but my Volvo was due back and I could not extend further. The 2025 was insanely expensive, so I settled on the last 2024 model the dealer had, an "Altitude X" trim which has nearly everything my wife really needed. The price was also less than the Limited, so I guess that is a bonus. Just getting the price is like pulling teeth, but that is another story.

A few days after visiting the dealer, I was in contact with the salesman and told him I wanted to move forward. Handed in a new app, approved and set a pick up date for a Friday as I could get off of work that day.

The signing process took 4 freakin hours. I inspected the car, everything was fine, and went into the showroom to get everything signed. After all said and done I go out to the car and it appears that not 1, but 2 door dings occurred while in the parking lot! They were nice enough to offer to fix it, but what really set me off was that the second key simply did not work. I told them it looked different than the first, but they were adamant it was the 2nd key, and it could be reprogrammed when I get the dents fixed.

Well, went to get the dents fixed, took a few days they gave me a loaner which was great, but upon pickup they said the key was for a totally different car and I need to take it up with the dealer. Dealer claims that service dept had no spare keys (yeah right!) and it would be ordered. I was livid, and honestly do not understand how dealerships work like this.

I apologize for the long rant, but I definitely feel like I had a horrible experience, and unsure if all Jeep dealerships are like this. I told the salesman he had 1 week to get me a key before I make an official complaint but I do not even know where to start and if said complaint will be falling on deaf ears.

TLDR: Horrible experience, hoping this is not the norm. If it is, I understand why these guys are going down the tubes.

A 2018 Grand Cherokee 6 cylinder with 62XXX miles. Daily commute is about five miles, but will also be used for frequent drives on the beaches near me. Is there anything I should know/ be concerned with before buying?

Recently saw a post by a guy asking about axle sizes and now it has me concerned about mine a few months ago I took my axles out to do brakes and backing plates if I had put the wrong one on the wrong side would I be able to tell or would it still work as normal or would it even engage the splines anyways (2002 Laredo)

Purchased a few weeks ago with 11k miles and loving it so far! One thing I’ve noticed though is the RPMs on a cold start. It’s getting cold around my area, 20-30 degrees. It’s garage kept, so when I cold start it in the morning to go to work, it’ll start up around 1,500 RPM, then gradually fall to sub 1,000 RPM in 30 seconds to a minute. At the end of the work day, it will do the same, start at 1,500 RPM but won’t fall below that until I put it in gear. I’ve waited a few minutes, sometimes longer, and it doesn’t fall at all. Does this sound like an issue I should get checked out or should I chalk it up to cold weather?

Question for the group ...apologies if this has come up before - I took a look and I hadn't seen it.

I'm looking to buy a new Jeep Grand Cherokee L (3 row) ...I'm neutral on 24 vs 25 model. My issue is around the options available in each trim level, specifically with regard to seat upholstery.

Based on the majority of features I'm looking for, the Limited is the trim level I'd go with. However, the one exception to this is the seat upholstery ...my understanding is that the Limited trim level only has leatherette (pleather) seats. I would like leather (real leather) seats, which it seems like are only on the Overland and Summit. Each of these trim levels has a feature that's a deal breaker for me ..the Overland has those front hooks (which I do not like), and the Summit has the two-toned paint (which I really do not like).

Anyone have thoughts on my best option here? If I go Overland, could I have the front hooks removed after-market? Do I go Limited, buy the real leather seats, swap them out and then sell my Leatherette? Anyone done any of this and have thoughts on cost? Eat the cost of the Summit and then get it repainted ($$)? Any solutions I'm not thinking of?

Thanks for the input on this ...really hoping I can figure out a way to configure this car the way I like!

Given the current state of Stellantis, what should I be willing to pay for a Grand Cherokee L Summit Reserve? Looking to lease instead of buy…do you think no money down and <$800/month is possible?

The funny thing is, it's been over a year, and despite living in a major city, a friend of mine noticed their neighbor now owns it. They live ~30 mins from me and an hour from where it was traded in. Very small world and I'm tempted to go ask to buy it back. 😅

Got a ‘23 GCL altitude and I’m looking to upgrade the speakers, amplify them, and add a sub. But I don’t want to compromise too much space for the amps and the sub. Any ideas?

Well.. I got the dreaded see dealer message. Temps went to the low 20s overnight. Today I get the message saying service def. I dumped a box of fresh DEF plus drove roughly 40 miles at the 55mph mark. Came home and when I tried to hook up the reader, the CEL had gone away but a code remains (P202E) that can’t be deleted. Anyone experienced this ? ( 14’ overland eco 89.3k miles)

Does anybody else’s WK2 temps fluctuate like this at idle? 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. The fan is obviously doing its job and coming on for a few seconds at 221° but this truck just started doing this for the past few months. The truck passed a combustion gas detection test, no leaking oil cooler. Water pump and thermostat were changed about one year ago and system was bled of air using a spill proof funnel. No visible coolant leaks anywhere and overflow tank volume remains the same. When I turn the heater on full blast the temp will then drop to its normal range and stay there. Any ideas on what’s going on? Clogged radiator?

Wondering if anyone here has needed to replace a fuel pump and if it was covered under the powertrain warranty. I have a 2021 GC Limited with 45,000 miles that was recently diagnosed with a bad fuel pump by an independent mechanic after I had it towed to his shop. He said he's seen this issue with a lot of this model year and recommended checking with the dealership for a replacement as it should be covered under the powertrain based on the mileage. I called the dealership today and they claim the fuel pump isn't considered a part of the powertrain and quoted me $1750 to replace. Much more than I expected to hear and I also don't feel like a fuel pump should be failing so soon. Anyone have a similar experience and was it covered for you?

The front park assist system “fails” every time the temperature is below 40F. Anyone have something similar happen to them? Fix?

Hi Guys, wanted to order to floor liners for the grand cherokee. Confused between 3W and lasfit. Any recommendations?

My wife accidentally used Chemical Guys VRP on her leather and it’s streaked to hell and back.

She tried scrubbing the stuff on with very dilute soapy water. I picked up some Megiars leather cleaner/protectant wipes and went through and wiped everything down. Looks a lot better but still a lot of streaks.

I know some leathers are temperamental with certain products. Any idea what this leather prefers or how to get rid of the streaks?

Thanks in advance!

I think I've made a post before in this thread about wanting to purchase a Jeep GC. However, the more I research and talk to people, the more they recommend against it and suggest a Toyota or Honda. This isn't a post about caring what others think, but more so about better understanding what I'll be getting myself into once I purchase one and any recommendations.

Ideally, I am looking for a used Jeep GC - WK2 (I think this refers to models between 2011-2022). I'll be using it for commuting and running errands mostly, but will need it to last at least 5 years since i'm planning to enroll in grad school in the next year or so. Not too worried about issues since that seems to be the gist of owning a Jeep, but it's not a complete deterrence. The main attractions are the look and the way they drive honestly.

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Our JGC at 40k miles has started rumbling really bad when we come to a stop and idling. Based on the description of a bad engine mount, that's what it feels like. But at 40k miles?? Anyone else experiencing this?

Hello everyone im going to cross post but wondered if anyone here might know. I have a 96 zj with a signal issue. Usually works when the car passenger compartment is heated up. Seems to be the fm ic in the radio itself does anyone have any experience fixing this? Would like to keep the car stock cause I'm somewhat of a collector of old stock cars and would like to keep the factory radio. I have the infinity gold system