Hi All, I'm in the process of replacing a bad solenoid block and figured while I had the valve body already dropped it might be a good idea to upgrade a bit. full disclosure, I haven't worked on a tranny since the mid- 90s.

For those unaware, the transgo kits are not supposed to shift like a sports car and I don't actually have any major issues with the 545RFE shift pattern. That said, the consensus around the various forums seems to be that you should put in the transgo kit if you have the valve body out anyway as other parts are prone to go. My use case is primarily an off-road/overland rig.

Question is which kit to buy?

This is the shift kit and I've read you can install 90% of the components with just the valve body dropped. https://transgo.com/product-details/rfe-shift-kit/

Alternatively, this one, called a "reprogramming kit" is also widely recommended. https://transgo.com/product-details/rfe-reprogramming-kit/

I'm honestly unsure of what a "reprogramming kit" is and the description seems very similar to the shift kit as do most of the components.

Anyone with experience with the transgo kits for the 545RFE care to enlighten me?

My previous post on this attracted a lot of unrelated replies. Hopefully the photo will help:

https://postimg.cc/7GcSSwPh

I need to replace the CV axle. I have a bottle jack that I use on all of my other cars, but a WK has such low ground clearance you can't even slide a person under it, not to mention a bottle jack under the jack point under the knuckle.

I'm trying to figure out how to jack the car up, and then where to put a jack stand, so that I can lower the jack under the knuckle and let the wheel hang so I can get the CV axle out.

That will require putting a jack stand somewhere other than where it is in the photo.

Are there people here who do their own work on the WK and know this car? It's new to me, and I'm stumped looking under it.

Thank you.

Hi,

I have a 2017 grand Cherokee and recently have encountered some problems. A couple of months ago my rear left turn signal and reverse light both stopped working at the same time, along with a flickering of the led outer ring on the passenger tail light. Took it to dealer, fixed driver turn signal and reverse light and said it was a ground issue. 2 months later, my reverse light is out again, tried changing bulb does not work. Also, the main problem that is bothering me is the outer led ring on the passenger side tail light. It used to flicker on and off, but now is completely dead. Dealer had said nothing was wrong 2 months prior. Has anyone encountered anything close to this?

Thanks

In europe the jeeps are absolutely crap as there built by fiat ,especially there engine which are just rubbish. I'd love a new one but probably looking to import one from the USA ,I take it there still manufactured by Jeep ?

Handbrake adjustment ,, ,,,mine is going to maximum travel before it holds rear shoes replaced and adjusted, seems to be excessive play on the handbrake mechanism.

So for quite a while, the drivers door has been hard to open. If I force it open fully, it's hard to close. So I did some reading around, it turns out this is a problem with the WKs. Apparently the lower hinge pin fails, and it makes it difficult to open and close. I looked on Rockauto, and sure enough, the drivers lower hinge is the only one they sell, so that verifies it.

I found a great video on YouTube, and they thoroughly explain how to change it without removing the whole door, I can share if anyone wants it. So I ordered the hinge on rockauto, but I noticed something, it doesn't have a spring or tension bushing.

Mopar stopped making these parts, so it's hard to find an exact replica. Has anyone ordered that hinge that came with the tension bushing? One option is to find a wrecked WK and take the rear lower door hinge, it's the same part, and the back door gets much less use.

Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy projector headlights? Any brands to stay away from?

Hey! So I own a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I have just run into an issue with my PCM, it has completely failed on me. Getting a new one and getting it programed is too expensive and taking it to the dealership is out of the question. My car is currently valued at $1000 and I just need it to drive and not scare the shit out of me. I pulled a PCM from another 2009 earlier this week and I'm looking to see how to program this PCM to my Vin. A local 'Do it yourself' mechanic shop has a autel mx906bt scanner. I talked with the owner of the shop and he said it was doable, but could put the PCM at risk for breaking if there's a glitch. Has anyone ever coded their own PCM or have any advice on how to fix this issue without messing more stuff up? My other thought is to talk to a locksmith but so far ive been quoted $150-$200

Just had a duh moment. I’ve had my 05 for four years now. Always thought it was a poor design for them to only allow me to open the rear window latch with the fob. Was walking by another WK and saw they had a “WINDOW” button near the license plate and I was like “why doesn’t MY car have a window button 😤”… it does. It just doesn’t say window. I feel so dumb rn fr. Feel free to laugh at me.

2 weeks ago the light came on to say I was low on washer fluid. A few days later the light went away and both the front and rear pumps wont come on. The manual doesn’t say anything about a fuse or relay other than “HDLP Washers” which I assume means headlamp washers. I’ve read there’s no fuses for these pump then I’ve read there’s fuses for the pump but on the actual pumps. My questions is, are there any fueses for the washer pump and do I really need to take off my fender liner to get to them? Really hoping there’s like a secret relay in the trunk that I’m just not finding as it’s 110º outside so my garage is probably 120-125º. TIA

So I found some 275/70-17’s for a good price and am planning on the pinch weld mod before attempting to mount them and the wheels. I’m just curious if I’ll have any issues before I can do the lift as well? They’re on 2014 wrangler wheels.

I swear I've replaced the front ABS sensors at least 4 times over the years and the wheel bearings once.

Why do my wheel speed (traction and stability control) keep failing? What should I try next?

I’ve got a rattle I’ve been hearing and it sounds like it was coming from the engine. It has been driving me nuts to narrow down. I saw a thread about our WKs being notorious for the torque converter bolts backing out and rattling against the inspection plate. Sure as shit. Got under there with my stethoscope and it’s rattling. Who has tightened these up before? I heard you can loosen the plate up enough to get an extended wrench up there and tighten them down. Wondering what the best solution is. This picture shows what it looks like would need to be loosened to get access. Level of difficulty? Instructions? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Didn’t want to dive in without a little more knowledge.

I have an aftermarket pan that worked great for six months. I did a transmission service and I'm filling up the levels again (have actually done this several times) and I'm not getting reliable readings on the dipstick.

When it's cold, before starting it, in P, the dipstick reads right around the upper of the higher pair of dots.

When it's cold, in N, on a flat surface, the dipstick reads above the lower two dots. This indicates it's too much fluid.

When it's been running, checking in N on a flat surface, I get no reading. There is some oil on the edge of the dipstick, but it's not always consistent where that is - often right around the upper two dots but not always. It's not fluid in the tube as it's been days since adding fluid.

Also, since doing the service, I start to get a little (little) clunk after it's hot and I go into R and back into P. That's why I'm nervous. I think that my incorrect fluid level must be causing the transmission to clunk, but I don't know if I should add or remove fluid.

I have the chart from the FSM and the user manual. If what I saw matched the chart, I wouldn't be having trouble.

Any ideas?

Any one running 275/55/r20 on the wk2 2021 4x4

I have a 2006 GC Limited with the 4.7. A variety of error codes have led me to believe the TCM needs to be replaced.

1. Is the TCM built into the PCM? Are they both the same box with the plugs on the passenger side by the firewall?
2. I suspect this rig was worked on previously for this problem and I'm not sure the PCM/TCM is the right part number. I have p56044743AC, Mopar suggests 4692392AI at around $1200! Are the parts interchangeable?

Help me Jeep experts! Thanks in advance!

Does anyone have any experience removing the steering rack from a RHD WK (2009) with the CRD engine?

I’ve got it drained and loose and dropped the front differential, but there just doesn’t seem enough room to get it out from between the subframe.

Part of the problem is the part of the rack that the steering knuckle connects to hits the sump/other stuff as I try to rotate it and push it towards the passenger side (to allow it to drop), so the end of the rack can’t clear the subframe.

Does anyone know how to approach this please?

I'm having trouble with the TRANSMISSION OVER TEMP error message. I don't think there's a problem with the transmission, because it started when I drained and filled the tranny.

The issue I assume is that I'm either above or below the right level. It's so hard to get a good reading.

If I turn it on and put it in neutral on a 65 degree day, it's above the two lower holes. That seems too high, right?

But if I drive a while and test again, it's only slightly higher - between two sets of holes.

Could anyone out there with a WK tell me what your level(s) is/are (cold and hot) in Neutral?

Thanks in advance.

Hi All,

I have a 2012 5.7l jeep grand Cherokee, the problem I have is the right side HID Headlight keeps going off. If I turn the lights on the lamp will stay on anywhere from 30 seconds to a min or 2 and will then flicker once then turn off shortly after.

I have replaced the bulb with no change I have tried 3 different ballasts and no change I have tried 2 different control modules ( located on the right headlight) and still doing the same.

Once the light goes off ( weather i wait 30 secs or do it instantly), if I turn the lights off then on again the light instantly comes back on and repeats the process.

Would anyone have any other advice they can offer or things to try?

Appreciate any advice,

UPDATE,

Thanks all, I checked all grounds and checked the Headlight again for connections etc. The light has now been working for a week with no issues.

Thanks again for the advice

Cheers

Corey

Dealership told me they "realigned" the tracks and I've personally cleared the drains. I'm wondering if the gasket around the glass is no longer supple?

I've mistaken lost my Alternator Bolts..... Please Help Thread sizes, Head size, the whole nine yard

I just replaced my valve body and solenoids, and reinstalled the filter and the pan. I just cannot get the NAG adapter to go back into its socket in the transmission. I can look in and see the notches and pins are lined up, it’s lubed, but will not “snap” into place. I try to tighten the 7mm bolt and it just spins and spins because it is not touching the threads. Any ideas?

I only need the outer spline shaft and the cup. Bonus if you have an axle nut. It has nothing to do with fixing my Jeep, I am building something out of the hub and need the shaft for the rest of the project.

Thanks!!!

https://preview.redd.it/mshj369l9a8d1.png?width=492&format=png&auto=webp&s=dc0d498a3fe61b1de0bcc47da0f5be80d4913801