/r/fosscad
A community dedicated to the discussion of 3D printed guns and related topics.
FOSSCAD = Free Open Source Software & Computer Aided Design
r/fosscad is a subreddit dedicated to the discussion of 3D printed guns and related topics.
RIP JStark <3
FOSSCAD = Free Open Source Software & Computer Aided Design
Subreddit Rules:
Keep posts on topic and high quality.
Be civil and don't troll.
Do not encourage, glorify, incite, or call for violence or physical harm against an individual or a group of people.
To combat spam, accounts must be at least 7 days old to post and comment.
Always research your country, state, and local laws before printing or downloading 3D files.
Do not share "3D printing files to produce firearms" per Reddit's content policy.
View the subreddit wiki here.
Join the official Discord here.
If you see a post/comment that breaks subreddit rules, Reddit Content Policy, or Reddiquette, please report the item and message the moderators. Thanks.
Gun Subreddits
/r/fosscad
Hey guys,
I'm working on a Recession Ruger remix to accept OEM Ruger mags and have a working slide stop. Thanks uberclay for all your groundwork on it!
When I go to slice, Orca is putting a break about half way up the magwell, parallel to the build plate. Regardless of the print orientation, it seems to always put a break there, and I can't figure out why or how to fix it.
Can anyone please help? Thanks
Note be blue line which is an overhang.
Need help on fixing my follower on the D.R.U.M mag, I’ve got everything done except for the follower fitting too tight on the follower guide
if anyone got any tips lmk
On YouTube the 3D Printing Nerd just released a video about this new filament, tullomer. It really sounds too good to be true. If this lives up to the hype, this will be amazing stuff!
Btw I'm from Myanmar PDF force fighting for Democracy The flash hider was made with Metal on Lathe
#Salute to J-Stark #Myanmar_PDF
It drives me nuts that even though the upper, lower, and front pic rails are all the same filament they all look like they're different colors due to print orientation. However, it runs like a sewing machine and it's my current favorite PCC.
Finally got my first real 3D2A build mostly complete. My print settings (mostly supports) need some further tuning, but I'd say it's too bad. Once I get my safety assembly & mag spring in, I'll be taking it to the range!
Saved the last little bit with the jank setup on pic 3&4. Support cracked, so I shoved a pen in there while it was printing and it seemed to come out OK lol.
For a paint job, I'm feeling a desert night camo, maybe black multicam. Any input from the peanut gallery?
I plan on trying to find a way to get an IR illuminator & tape switch mounting solution, there's not a lot of rail-estate, so I have to get creative. If anyone has any experience with trying to make a DB Alloy into an NV setup, please let me know, I'd love to hear some input!
Huge shoutout to u/Kilo_Axtual for the parts kit, he's a real OG. Fair priced, quick shipping, and a nice fella. (Not sponsored he's just a good dude).
Does anyone know of any p365 sailing? Looking to do a build, something a little (actually a lot smaller) than the g26. Thanks in advance.
Hi, i'm developing a bunch of scopes and sights as a hobby but the main issue i run into is finding properly coated lenses in usable shapes and sizes with collimation. Does anyone know of a good cheap source? thanks in advance
I started my first NAG and was wondering if any internal parts are printable in resin? I know my x1c can make quality prints but nothing beats resin for precision and quality. There's alot of resins out there now but most tend to be brittle. Any recommendations or is it just a dumb idea?
i designed a diy and printable maxim stock and brace all the original hardware fits but haven't done the diy rods yet to confirm they work i made jigs for the cuts and also have a printable version that uses smaller steel rods for reinfocement but im unsure if itll be rigid enough. its not on the 🌊 yet but if anyone is interested i may start a beta room on element to check if its working. the price is looking to be about 45 for 1 or 80+shipping for all the hardware.
Is there somewhere I can go to get a shorter barrel for my 3dp90? I've got a 12.5 inch barrel in mine, but would like something shorter. Mainly to have it look closer to a real P90 (end of the barrel flush with the front of the gun).
I could probably go to a gunsmith and get the barrel cut and re-threaded, but I feel like that might be more expensive than buying a shorter barrel (if they exist at all).
After 54 rounds, two of the brass inserts pulled out and the bolt didn’t close. Questions - has anyone gone up to 4mm inserts and bolts? I read of someone using the brass #6 wood inserts and screwing them in with a soldering iron chisel tip. Worst case, I might redesign the upper to take thru bolts on the two side bolts and then maybe insert two brass inserts on the top hole? Just seeing if anyone else encountered this, and what their solutions were. It’s a left handed FGC - reverse the upper, ejector, and bolt carrier and good to go. Before the failure, the gun shot flawlessly, and with a cheapo red dot, dialed in with a cheapo laser bore sight, we blasted out the bullseye out of the gate.