I’m not new to the fire arms game but as far as I know there’s only been an ever produced and at very limited numbers. This seems like the kind of thing that keltec would be all about. But I’d personally love a 10/22 style in 17. What’s y’all’s thoughts

Whats the best 22 to print? I made I believe it was called an sg22 v3 a long time back genius design with the striker and trigger, stupid simple mechanism but it was super inaccurate because the barrel droopedand was loose in the reciever but I could probably fix this by making the front half and the barrel one part and using a liner instead of an actual 10/22 barrel, or making a liner for a full 10/22 barrel and glueing the barrel in. Is there any other stupid simple, stupid reliable 22s out there mostly printed?

I'll be working on an extended charging handle and a trigger guard after this when I get time. Having the 1913 adapter printed in aluminum. A barrel extension will be used to clear the handguard. If it's all concentric enough, I'm going to run either my obsidian 9 or my omega 9k on this. Just working a lot right now so updates might be slow.

Looking for a non-functional Mac upper to print, need it as a placeholder for now

Does anyone have an actual photo of how to properly file/ramp the barrel extractor notch on the AWCY bento box? I, like others, interpreted the instructions as to file an actual notch in the barrel, not a ramp. Just looking for a reference photo of a properly done one.

Hey guys I'm looking for the barrel for the nt79 and all the info I'm finding is for this fence post at lowes but keep getting varying answers on the gauge. Is 16g enough or should it be 17g in seeing both answers on threads and dont have the paperwork with me for the build to see if it says the gauge on there. Any and all help is greatly appreciated

This is going to be kinda long but I was reading about this and thought it would be better discussed openly here than in coded speech on the 3D print sub.

Apparently, there have been multiple studies about the use of carbon nanotube coatings on additive manufacturing materials to enable localized annealing of materials without as much deformation as can occur with oven methods.

From the paper:

"The results of these tests indicate that the LIRF welding process is a highly effective technique for strengthening the interfaces of 3D-printed parts; fracture strength increased by 275% over baseline 3D-printed parts. Both optical microscope and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images of the fracture surfaces for the three samples (hot-pressed bulk PLA; 3D-printed neat PLA; and CNT-coated, 3D-printed, LIRF-welded PLA) are shown in Fig. 4COpens in image viewer and figs. S32 to S42.

It is clear that the bulk hot-pressed PLA sample undergoes significant plastic deformation during the propagation of the tear. This plastic deformation and crazing is absent in the neat 3D-printed control sample; instead, a clean and smooth fracture surface can be seen. Minor surface crazing is visible on the neat PLA printed samples at large magnifications; however, the lack of any visible bulk plastic deformation confirms the brittle fracture.

In stark contrast, the fracture surfaces (figs. S34 to S42) of the LIRF-welded samples exhibit large necked zones along the tear path with significant bulk plastic deformation. The fracture surfaces of LIRF-welded samples closely resemble those of the bulk hot-pressed PLA films.

This evidence leads us to the conclusion that both the strength and ductility of the samples have been restored. The fracture strength results support this conclusion; in some of the LIRF-welded samples, the propagation of the crack along the weld line was pinned such that the crack deviated from the center line and tore diagonally or perpendicularly to the weld line. (This tendency is commonly seen in tear tests as noted in ASTM D1938 sec. 9.4.) The LIRF-welded parts outperform even the neat hot-pressed films; this suggests that the heat treatment may locally increase the crystallinity of the polymer interface or that the MWCNTs reinforce the interface after the welding process.

This seems to indicate mechanical properties exceed even the performance of the injection molded polymer pieces with notable improvements and sections highlighted.

Now, let's talk about the how.

How do I coat the filament in double walled carbon nano-tubes?

Materials You Need

Essentials:

Multi-Walled Carbon Nanotubes (MWCNTs)

Purchase high-purity (>95%) CNTs with a 30–40 nm diameter from online material suppliers.

Solvent:

Best option: Chloroform (preferred but harder to get).

Easier alternative: Acetone (less effective but still works).

Polymer Binder:

For 3D printer filament coating: Dissolve PLA in chloroform.

For water-based applications: Use PVA dissolved in water.

Optional but Helpful

Dispersant (e.g., SDS or Triton X-100) – Helps keep CNTs evenly mixed.

Ultrasonic Cleaner – Needed to break apart CNT clusters.

Vacuum Oven or Well-Ventilated Area – Helps remove solvents safely.

According to the paper we want a 10% wt% of the ink.

To prepare a 10 wt% MWCNT ink for filament coating, we need to determine the correct amounts of MWCNTs, polymer binder (PLA or PVA), and solvent. The weight percentage is calculated as the mass of MWCNTs divided by the total mass of solids, multiplied by 100. The solvent amount is not included in this percentage because it evaporates during drying. A good starting batch size is 100 mL.

First, we calculate the required MWCNT mass. Given that the total mass of solids is 10 grams, multiplying by 10% gives 1 gram of MWCNTs. Next, we determine the polymer binder mass by subtracting the MWCNT mass from the total solids, resulting in 9 grams of PLA or PVA. Finally, the solvent amount is typically used at a 1:10 ratio of solids to solvent by weight, meaning 100 grams (or approximately 100 mL) of solvent such as chloroform for PLA or water for PVA.

To mix the ink, first, add 1 gram of MWCNTs to 50 mL of solvent and sonicate for 30 to 60 minutes to break up any clumps. In a separate beaker, dissolve 9 grams of PLA in 50 mL of chloroform or dissolve PVA in water. Once fully dissolved, slowly combine the polymer solution with the MWCNT dispersion while stirring continuously. Sonicate the final mixture for another 15 minutes to ensure uniform distribution. If clumps remain, filtering through fine mesh or filter paper can help. The ink should be stored in a sealed container away from light to prevent solvent evaporation.

Now, the ideal application thickness is gonna be something we can't really do anything about too much as it calls for a coating thickness of approximately 14 microns.

I'd imagine that a application tube where you draw the filament through the ink with wiper on the exit would be fine. They used a 20 minute post application drying time but incorporating a inline heated dryer you could probably apply it right before printing.

They use a 800w microwave emitter and a waveguide, use a slightly higher power or experiment on what works for you.

I think for our uses, that this could be a valuable technique we could explore moving forward.

What are your thoughts?

sci-hub.st -10.1002/adfm.200601011

https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/sciadv.1700262#body-ref-R16

After firing for the first time the mount start freely rotating making it difficult to loosen them from the muzzle. It may be design-related since the steel rods engage on round surfaces. Or maybe just me. Has anyone had similar experiences?

Moved to .6 nozzle and ran some calibrations. Hopefully this turns out well!

Any good files for vertical grips? Thanks

I'm working on a Sumac, and wanting to utilize the Hoffman Grip with the lower. My issue is I'm not too savvy with CAD software yet and struggling to redesign the grips duckbill to fit with the sumac lower. I have the files for anyone that can help.