Does any one have experience with ED Brown extended striker plunger? I was thinking of adding it since when I installed Apex trigger and ultimate plunger kits for more solid reset and wall (the trigger upgrade is much better). Do yall think this will help for this purpose.

Sorry if not allowed.

If any of yall build parts kits here is an invite link to my builders group on discord. Just tring to end the gate keeping of building parts kits.

https://discord.gg/kXJWpKbm

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Hey all, does anyone have knowledge/experience with a 1980’s manufactured Colt AR-15A2 (Sporter II)? Recently a family member called me to come over and help him take the upper off of the lower so he could clean it easier after a range trip. I thought he was joking at first, but once I got my hands on it I realized it’s got a completely different takedown pin setup than a standard AR with a captured system. The pins have 2 flathead-like screws, one on each side, as you can see in the pictures. The screw on the right side does not budge when you try to loosen it and he had already tried to remove it in the past, cosmetically damaging it in the process. The screw on the left side however does unthread from the pin. From there (bottom right picture), we tried tapping the pin out from the upper/lower but it does not seem to budge with a punch and hammer, even after a few good whacks. I don't want to risk breaking the pin holes on the upper/lower, am I missing a step that needs to be done before this pin will budge? I've tried a bigger punch to try and punch the whole assembly out, and I've also tried a smaller punch that does all the way down to try and knock it out that way, but no luck. The only Youtube videos (very few) I can find on similar Colt rifles with similar pins, they all fast forward over the actual removal process of the pin. So my questions to you guys are: 

- Are these pins removable, or are they permanently installed to marry the upper/lower receivers on this model?

- Does anyone know the pin size on this model?

- If the pins are removable, does anyone know where I can source replacement ones?

Thank you all in advance

Howdy, so recently (~4-6weeks ago) I shot my rifle (14.5in pin and weld) with a suppressor for the first time. Afterwards it will only cycle certain ammo types. I typically shoot PMC bronze PSP (3200 fps mv) and pre supressor had no issues. Now the rifle will only cycle Winchester white box 62 gr green tip (3240 fps mv) or “hotter” I’ve tried adjusting the gas every way imaginable but when I shoot the PSP I get ejection but failure to feed, it’s as if the BCG doesn’t cycle far enough back to cycle the next round. Easy answer is only shoot 62gr but I feel as if a rifle that only cycles with certain ammo is next to worthless. Second easiest answer is a lightweight buffer but I also feel as if this is a bandaid for a potentially real issue. Where do I start? How expensive is this gonna be? I plan to replace the gas tube but want some expert opinion. TIA

Any insight on getting rid of this liftoff / play. Glock slide with grey ghost precision frame.

Bought bulk ammo of 1000 rounds of 5.56. are these safe to shoot?

I have an old 12 guage double barrel I'm hoping to get some info on.

Sub recommendations?

Hey guys, just found my bolt came into contact with some glue which has caused this.

Do you have any ideas on how to get it off, along with this once off if it can be how would I recolor it to black. Thanks heaps

I'm not completely clueless, I know how guns work. I would love to get into gunsmithing as a hobby, but I really just can't settle for such expensive equipment. What is the bare minimum?

I(M15) just came into possession of an antique 1890's Colt revolver, and so far it seems like my family hasn't been taking good care of it. It's got a small warp at the end of the barrel, and the double action on it is broken. I think the issue with the action is just the spring, but it could be deeper. The issues are besides the point: I won't be the one fixing it. Can anyone point me in the right direction of who to ask/Where to go? I work on a few other guns but this things a relic... I don't trust myself with it. I just need to know who I can trust to fix it, like what qualifications or titles they should have. I tried to reach out to Colt, but they haven't responded. DM's open!

I'm trying to find out if bore lapping will help the accuracy of my rifle. I picked it up a while back and put some iron sites on it. The thing shoots well at 50 yds but opens to over 10" at 100 yds. Upon inspection of the bore with a bore scope what looks to me like major stepping was discovered starting just past the throat as light lines and getting progressively more prominent all the way to the muzzle. To the naked eye the bore looks pristine. This is my first time dealing with this issue and only found out about lapping recently. Any educated input is appreciated.

Can anyone guide me to a place I can buy a replacement stock for this gun? thank you!

Wanting to change barrels on my model81 from 32 remington to 300 savage.is it as easy as just changing barrels or do I need bolt parts and or recoil springs too?

So I cleaned my Winchester 1300 for the first time today and it took a while to figure out why the bolt and slide wouldn’t come out forward even after I was able to remove the pump I then figure out it was hitting the receiver but it could come out the bottom after u compress the sell ejector spring. Sorry for bad pic but anyone have insight on to why it’s like this? Every video of disassembling the guy they go out the front. It’s not an issue more just curiosity. 20ga gun.

I've already posted on r/arisaka, and r/milsurp but thought this sub might have some good suggestions also. I'm in the process of fully stripping an Arisaka T-38 that has probably been sitting around in a closet since 1945. I'm unable to get the rear tang to come free from the wood. The screws came out just fine, but the tang feels like it's glued into the stock. I've tried lightly tapping with a punch, but no go. I tried heating it with a hairdryer and then tried tapping it again. Still nothing. I can't even get it to wiggle. The tang is recessed into the wood, and short of prying, I can't see anyway to get a purchase on it. The stock is in nice condition, only a few dents and dings, and I really don't want to do any damage. Looking for any suggestions about how to gently get this piece to break free.

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This is something that my father picked up I think during his time in Germany in the '60s. It fires just fine, but somehow the ejector rod is missing. Is there a common ejector rod that would work in there, because we can't seem to find the exact part.

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The cylinder on a friend's Ruger is frozen. I managed to swing the cylinder out but I cannot get it to rotate. The ejector rod moves freely. The hammer and trigger are also rusted frozen. What is the best way to clean and get this revolver in working order?

So I bought a beautiful inland m1 carbine, and a coworker gave me a paratrooper stock with the folder on it. I tried to fit the receiver into the stock but it won't fit. My receiver slides in and out of the original stock like butter, but the new stock feels like it has to be pressed down and held. I'm afraid to force it down because it's an actual WWII piece. I just want to put it in the paratrooper stock, and put the original away. Please help

I'm having a hard time finding parts for my PPS43 kit to convert it to semi auto, I cant seem to find the striker, firing pin or drop in hammer fire trigger anywhere. Also wondering if there is anyone here who knows how to mill the pps43 bolt or at least has the capability to that wouldn't mind helping me out

I am trying to build a Webly Mk 6 revolver out of resin for an art project. I am having difficulties in finding schematics or patents for it. Any tips?

I asked on here about my 270 bolt not working on the 4th round each time I use it a few weeks ago. Well I finally took it over to a GunSmith and the dumbest thing was wrong with it. The issue was the bolt was dry. He used oil on it and now it works fine. I feel like such an idiot