I'm not completely clueless, I know how guns work. I would love to get into gunsmithing as a hobby, but I really just can't settle for such expensive equipment. What is the bare minimum?

I(M15) just came into possession of an antique 1890's Colt revolver, and so far it seems like my family hasn't been taking good care of it. It's got a small warp at the end of the barrel, and the double action on it is broken. I think the issue with the action is just the spring, but it could be deeper. The issues are besides the point: I won't be the one fixing it. Can anyone point me in the right direction of who to ask/Where to go? I work on a few other guns but this things a relic... I don't trust myself with it. I just need to know who I can trust to fix it, like what qualifications or titles they should have. I tried to reach out to Colt, but they haven't responded. DM's open!

I'm trying to find out if bore lapping will help the accuracy of my rifle. I picked it up a while back and put some iron sites on it. The thing shoots well at 50 yds but opens to over 10" at 100 yds. Upon inspection of the bore with a bore scope what looks to me like major stepping was discovered starting just past the throat as light lines and getting progressively more prominent all the way to the muzzle. To the naked eye the bore looks pristine. This is my first time dealing with this issue and only found out about lapping recently. Any educated input is appreciated.

Can anyone guide me to a place I can buy a replacement stock for this gun? thank you!

Wanting to change barrels on my model81 from 32 remington to 300 savage.is it as easy as just changing barrels or do I need bolt parts and or recoil springs too?

So I cleaned my Winchester 1300 for the first time today and it took a while to figure out why the bolt and slide wouldn’t come out forward even after I was able to remove the pump I then figure out it was hitting the receiver but it could come out the bottom after u compress the sell ejector spring. Sorry for bad pic but anyone have insight on to why it’s like this? Every video of disassembling the guy they go out the front. It’s not an issue more just curiosity. 20ga gun.

I've already posted on r/arisaka, and r/milsurp but thought this sub might have some good suggestions also. I'm in the process of fully stripping an Arisaka T-38 that has probably been sitting around in a closet since 1945. I'm unable to get the rear tang to come free from the wood. The screws came out just fine, but the tang feels like it's glued into the stock. I've tried lightly tapping with a punch, but no go. I tried heating it with a hairdryer and then tried tapping it again. Still nothing. I can't even get it to wiggle. The tang is recessed into the wood, and short of prying, I can't see anyway to get a purchase on it. The stock is in nice condition, only a few dents and dings, and I really don't want to do any damage. Looking for any suggestions about how to gently get this piece to break free.

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This is something that my father picked up I think during his time in Germany in the '60s. It fires just fine, but somehow the ejector rod is missing. Is there a common ejector rod that would work in there, because we can't seem to find the exact part.

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The cylinder on a friend's Ruger is frozen. I managed to swing the cylinder out but I cannot get it to rotate. The ejector rod moves freely. The hammer and trigger are also rusted frozen. What is the best way to clean and get this revolver in working order?

So I bought a beautiful inland m1 carbine, and a coworker gave me a paratrooper stock with the folder on it. I tried to fit the receiver into the stock but it won't fit. My receiver slides in and out of the original stock like butter, but the new stock feels like it has to be pressed down and held. I'm afraid to force it down because it's an actual WWII piece. I just want to put it in the paratrooper stock, and put the original away. Please help

I'm having a hard time finding parts for my PPS43 kit to convert it to semi auto, I cant seem to find the striker, firing pin or drop in hammer fire trigger anywhere. Also wondering if there is anyone here who knows how to mill the pps43 bolt or at least has the capability to that wouldn't mind helping me out

I am trying to build a Webly Mk 6 revolver out of resin for an art project. I am having difficulties in finding schematics or patents for it. Any tips?

I asked on here about my 270 bolt not working on the 4th round each time I use it a few weeks ago. Well I finally took it over to a GunSmith and the dumbest thing was wrong with it. The issue was the bolt was dry. He used oil on it and now it works fine. I feel like such an idiot

Hello everyone, so a quick question - to those that have a shadow systems pistol or know someone who have done work to them; is there a way to make a left handed/ambidextrous slide release? A friend of mine is very interested in picking up one for concealed carry after trying mine. The issue is he’s very much left handed, so a left handed slide release would be great. I don’t know if, because the firearms are similar to glock it Would be easy to mod with a Glock gunsmith or not.. thanks for any help!

Hey y’all!

I’ve had this 94 for a few years, and it has never had a functions ejector. It looks like it is sheered off at the back end.

I’ve looked online for a replacement, and I either can’t find the ejector to match the one out of my shotgun, or they are out of stock with no restock time.

Does anybody have any suggestions on how to go about fixing this without buying a whole a new barrel and assembly?

Thanks! I attached photos of the barrel info, serial number, and the assembly of the ejector. The broken piece is the straight piece on the top left of the group. Pictures

In case anyone was wondering, the two trigger guard screws on the American Krags are 1/4-26 tpi.

It took me a great deal of headache to work it out and get it right, so hopefully this post will save someone else that same hassle.

Hello gunsmiths of Reddit. So my predicament is me being a newbie over tighten the screws for my red dot and it snapped. My screw extractor kit came in an I’m preparing to remove the stripped screws however I just remembered that the screws came in with red lock tight. I have zero experience with lock tight but through research saw red is supposed to be permanent. I learned heat would help. So would a torch to the screw work and would it damage my slide?

Idk if this is important but I can access the screws through both the top and bottom of my slide. My slide is an M&P 2.0 compact CORE

I just ordered and received the "old style" 4 click hammer and trigger set from Taylor's. These are supposed to be "drop in" parts. I am very mechanically inclined, having done trigger and spring jobs on both my 1911 and 9mm, but these wheel guns are a whole other animal. Has anyone done this conversion and if so what am I up against. (FYI- I have already had the floating firing pin system fail once after only 50 rounds. IMHO this system is junk)

So I have an m&p 2.0 CORE. I had a holosun 508t on it and loved it. I put maybe 500 rounds with the red dot on (mixture of slow shooting, training, and a few mag dumps thrown in). The issue I have is when I was practicing my shot placement in an indoor range for the first time my red dot flew off. Later I found out the screws snapped and now I have some of the screws stuck in the hole used to mount the red dot and I can’t screw on the red dot again. Any ideas how it happened and how I can fix it? I want to try before buying a new slide. Rn I’m just running irons but I prefer having the red dot.

CONTEXT: the screw hold both the red dot and mounting plate. You don’t screw in the mounting plate then the red dot or I’ll have the back of the red dot sit a hit high and won’t co witness with the irons since the screw heads don’t sit flush . At least I was told that’s how to Mount it.