Hi all,

Sorry for the probably ignorant question, but we got a pair of 500w @ 8ohm 18" drivers, and wanted to design horn loaded bins for them.

Disregarding the T/S parameters, is this too little for them to be put into horn bins, or is that entirely dependent on the thiel-small and other parameters?

I am an avid woodworker, electronics tinkerer, and I appreciate a good sound system. So a project like this seems right up my alley.

I was wondering if I spent in the ballpark of $500-700 on a kit of speakers and crossovers would I actually be getting a better value than my set of ELAC DBR62? How about something at $1k+ like the Revel M36 or even $2k a Kef R3 Meta? I mention these 3 sets because they stand out in each of their price ranges as being good values.

I've seen it mentioned that it's a better value but direct comparisons seem to be lacking. Any advise on where you think they would stack up against commercial speakers would be appreciated.

Ultimately I don't want to spend time and money building an okay set of speakers. I would be willing to save a bit more and get a set of woofers, tweeters, and crossovers that will improve my setup.

Bonus question. If I wanted to get into the quality range of $2-3k floor speakers, are there kits out there that will compete?

Building a set of bookshelves out of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood. Plan to line the insides with dynamat. Internal dimensions are 15x9x8. Before I seal it all up, I was wondering what the hive thinks about the need for internal bracing. I'm not against the idea of y'all think it's necessary, but it also costs me some box volume.

My gut says not necessary, but didn't know if there are any general rules of thumb for when bracing becomes more of a requirement???

I'm in the process of finishing 2 V.B.S.S subwoofers using the 20hz tune.
2x - GRS 18PT-8 18" Paper ConeGRS 18PT-8 18" Paper Cone

I'd always thought that in order to get "sub" 20hz infrasonic you needed a sub ("speaker") that would reproduce it. That said.. I think I just had a eureka moment?

Reading the graph below this is saying that the subwoofer will produce sound at the "10hz" range just much quieter than we want (70 SPL ~ 70dB) when playing the track at 96/101/106 ect. Is this why people add like 12 of these to a room? More subs at 70 SPL turns into More sound which equates to I feel 10hz in a movie?

For example:
- 2 subs at 70 becomes 76
- 4 subs at 70 becomes 80
- ect?

https://preview.redd.it/cinjyvnel7ge1.png?width=887&format=png&auto=webp&s=fe1cd728952dc597ac5b0f807979f93f25aa0e47

If anyone e has recommendations / tips and tricks this is my first build and would love to hear them!

I'm currently building 2 vbss subs stock standard. In the plans he's got an additional 1/2 inch front baffle to flush mount.

Question: is it possible to use a rabbit bit to flush mount the driver into a single 3/4" mdf front baffle and remove the need for the 1/2" sheet?

Hi there,

I currently have an FP2200 that is causing a bit of bother.

I’m reasonably good with audio electronics but this one is a bit of challenge.

I’ve eliminated the PSU as an issue as channel A is functioning as normal and the power seems to run in parallel.

The output transistors test ok in circuit and measure the same as the known good channel.

On the scope there is nothing at the output or at Q19/Q20.

Does anyone have any suggestions or come across this before that may be able to offer me a pointer?

Many thanks

Just powered on my soundbar/sub for the first time in a while, it was sounding a bit off and I checked and the base came off of the bottom of the sub. Is this something I could fix, was thinking about just gluing it back on but I wasn’t sure if that would work.

I've gotten interested in using a 3D printer to build speaker enclosures ever since I saw this video: Youtube: Building EXCEPTIONAL speakers using MODERN TECHNIQUES

In the video, he uses a piece of software called "Hornresp" to figure out the tuning of the...horn? Port? Transmission line? This is what I find confusing.

When I started looking into different types of "labyrinth" speakers, they mostly referred to Transmission Lines and quarter wave theory. Most of the general wisdom around them said it was easiest to design them with fully parallel "ports", but that you could get better response when designed to taper down as you get FARTHER from the driver for marginally greater effort. Some people design them to taper down as you get CLOSER to the driver, but this is supposedly a much more difficult design. And the last important thing I took away from my reading was that the "port" in a TL should be roughly the same area as the driver.

When I look at his design, I suppose it could be the same area as his drivers, but I see the large air space where the drivers live compared to the small port and it just seems like...a port? Like a normal bass reflex system? But longer.

I see stuff like this and I have the same thought - is this a TL or just a port?

I obviously haven't figured out quarter wave theory yet. I am interested in the possibility of using my 3d printer to build enclosures with superior bass response. I don't know if I should design a typical bass reflex system or try to tackle learning quarter wave theory and design a transmission line. I'm also trying to figure out if I can design an intermediate enclosure to help with prototyping. I don't figure I'll get the port correct on the first try and would like to be able to quickly adjust the port and try again without having to print an entire enclosure.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi!

I have some ND65-4 drivers lying around, and I was thinking of making some veeery simple speakers for my office computer. I was thinking about 1-1.5 liter volume, which is around what the specs say for a sealed volume.

Now I realized I also have a pair of ND65 passive radiators. Could I plop them into the same enclosure, or would that ruin the sound if I do not also increase the volume and tune them?

I'm not looking to make a great speaker here. I'm just wondering if putting the PR's in can make them worse, and if I should just stick to the sealed box?

I have some paradigm titans and the foam surround is toast on them. I was hoping to use them in my bedroom just for some music and night tv, nothing special. Can I just buy some 5.25" off parts Express or somewhere and swap them in?

Hey everyone, I'm converting the radio in my 1960 Cadillac to Bluetooth and I am looking for a board with some specific features. I want something with a power/volume potentiometer, along with pause/play and song skip buttons. Ideally, the buttons should either be on a separate board or have physical buttons. Also, I don’t want any Chinese voice prompts lol.

I’ve done a similar project before on my 1959 Plymouth, but the board I used had buttons for volume control, which was fairly annoying when needing to turn it down. I used micro switches and soldered them where the original buttons used to be.

If anyone knows of a board that might work for this setup, please let me know! Thanks!

Here is the one I did in my Plymouth
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU0twVf9fik

all i have to start with are a set of midrange drivers from a paradigm cc350 and a couple sheets of wood not really worried about how they’ll look, function over form. what im wondering is what kind of tweeter would be optimal to pair with these and if id be able to try to build these into an acoustic suspension design like my cambridge soundworks model sixes.anything and everything is appreciated

Got some EV SX300s for free! How do I set these up?

Got 4 of these speakers for free from a gym that was closing down. Also came with two of small versions of them, so 6 total. I’m entirely new to this level of audio technology and have no clue what all id need to properly set them up. I’ve been told by someone I need a pretty crazy amp as well as a subwoofer to go with them as well. If anyone could help me out with some recommendations and information would be much appreciated. Will be setting these up in my garage gym.

I have 2 pairs that are giving me really bad audio and just don’t really work. Dont reallly know what to try aside from cleaning them. Any good products or strategies?

The wire casing running under the headband has worn though. Can anyone point me to the correct replacement part? Also does replacing this wire require soldering?

Hello,

We're a non profit org and got a sound system donated a couple of years ago. The room it is in is now going to be used for activities and we're worried they might get damaged.

Thus we would like to build some sort of cover or protection onto these to make sure they're safe but we're not quite sure where to start.

Any tips or tricks are appreciated

https://preview.redd.it/1tg231l6j5ee1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f458d7fb42c61dd5a15b711143c21def7ae2159c

https://preview.redd.it/7kkii0l6j5ee1.jpg?width=2408&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc534f5e2364e8f3d5e2e2c878088b108c5c076f

Hello, guys, I bought second hand set of speakers and the woofers are falling apart, not sure if the previous guy did use some hard chemical to clean them or some thermites, moths or something is disintegrating the thin part of the woofer... so I have like 6 or 8 woofers that I would like to fix.. I live in Thailand... any advice??
TIA
Models: Diamond 11.3 + 11.0 + 11CS

https://preview.redd.it/4ec10h66frde1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9b92f1d8e3a3e856a09808a9937cf0d8280221a

Cardioid hifi/studio loudspeakers generally are cardioid down to about 100hz (e.g. Dutch & Dutch 8C, Kii Three). It seems like cardioid subwoofers generally need more space to work well (e.g. two subs stacked with one facing the rear polarity inverted and delayed).

Curious to learn: Would this type of cardioid subwoofer design (scaled down) work in a living room near back walls or does it also require significant space behind the sub for the waves to cancel out?

https://preview.redd.it/afrhl76u8mde1.png?width=2276&format=png&auto=webp&s=8f83c41aefe2c872a3625db1540fb18e73e2cc1a

Hi all, recently picked up a full Mordaunt short Alumni 5.1 for 20 quid, unfortunately the amp board is dead, making a hissing/buzzing noise, and absolutely no signal.

Looking at the like of a TPA3116 to replace the blown unit, just looking to keep something cheap and cheerful, just seeking a bit of advice on if anyone’s used this sub board before or if there any better options, looking to keep it cheap and cheerful.

Cheers 🫡

Hi everyone! I'm looking forward a pair of desktop speaker! Though, the only connetivity option is a 3.5mm aux in. I'd need a way to play my electric guitar through them, however I have 2 output audio cables (it's stereo: 1 Left, 1 Right). Is there any way to connect the signal to any sort of "Y"-like adapter and connecting it to my speakers? Would both left and right signals be played through the speaker or that would collapse to one only?

Im building speakers at the moment however I'm not very familiar with amplifiers. I need some recommendation of high quality brands for my selection

I need 6 channels , approx 750 W per channel

Maximum budget is 2.7k USD preferably a class D amplifier with DSP

Any recommendation on where to start looking would be much appreciated

I have had my eye on the Linea Research 88C06 but its out of my budget

Hello, I have a problem with my amplifier. It usually plays fine, but I have noticed that when I slightly lift it and start tilting it in any direction, the sound starts to change. I mean, the sound disappears on one or the other channel or has a slight hiss. What could be the cause? Could it be the relay? Thanks in advance for your help.

I have two subs wired together to present 4ohm to a 4ohm 1000w mono amp. Would it be worth it to get a second 1000w amp and run one sub per amp considering they would be at 8ohm separately?. (they can be wired as 2ohm each thanks to DVC but I understand that's bad for the amp) Each speaker is rated at 300w rms 1200w peak and this is an AC home mono amp that probably is hitting way below 1000w.