So i recently acquired a pair of earthquake sound eq12s8. Im trying to build a cabinet for them but cant really find any information online about building mid range boxes. Any input helps. Thanks in advance.

As the title says, I've bose soundtouch 20 speaker. It's dead, and I'm from India (not much scope of getting it fixed) I've successfully opened it up, I love the sound quality of st20 so was thinking to have it saved by powering it using external amp from fosi audio. Is the idea good? Also, bose doesn't mention wattage specs of speakers, of the idea is good, how much power of amp should I go for? Ps, I've external active sub also, hence subout port is necessary for me to have which fosi is giving in few options of their amps. Im already excited that if it works, I'll finally have losless audio on st20 speakers. Thanks in advance dear audiophiles

building a dual-mono to drive a pair of Magnepan LRS - ordered a dual-TPA3255 board ("SAMP-200" advertised @ 1200w) and now sourcing a switching power supply. Found a 40V 30A unit that should do the trick as I've read of some frying said board @ 48V.

appreciate any and all comments and direction, this will be my first build.

I just bought an amplifier (Wuzhi audio ZK-HT21 2.1 ch 160W X2 + 220W. I have bought a lower powered version before and it didn't had this plugs, also, in the pictures I found on the internet they don't have them either, so what are they for? One of them says "subwoofer audio output" but there's already the outputs from the back and this one's have 3 pins!?

hi, i am not at all into audio or anything like that, but i just wanna ask some more experienced people about the speakers i just bought for my laptop setup recently.

so its a cheap speaker, and it comes in to channel making it 2.0 (i think?) so my first thought was that it would be a stereo speaker but after testing it with those L R speaker test on yt, apparently its not stereo(?) it turns out that it always plays the same audio from left and right speaker, even after i tweaked with my windows settings..

now my question is can you make a mono speaker, stereo?

Yet another newb here. I'm building two sealed enclosures for full range speaker drivers for my desktop gaming PC. I've designed and built a prototype for my very first DIY speaker which sounds pretty amazing if I don't say so myself (compared to my old ones anyways). My second design fits my speaker driver specs for physical volume by <1% error. I'm very happy with it but I think it can be improved. For that I have a few areas for questions, things I don't understand yet.

1. Should I mount the speaker on the outside or inside of the front panel? Does it matter and why?
2. When designing an enclosure, should the driver's physical volume be considered?
3. Are thicker sides always better or are there downsides? I think the rule of thumb was 2cm.
4. If my enclosure volume is precise, do I need stuffing? Is furniture stuffing the same as speaker stuffing?
5. I am using shielded cables but since I am DIY'ing my enclosure, should I shield the inside of the enclosure too? Does it have to completely enclose the speaker driver to be effective? Does shielding do anything if it isn't connected to ground?

I know it's a lot so feel free to answer some or all of my questions. Any other tips or improvements are welcome too. Thank you! Here's a picture of my enclosure design:

Without mesh

With mesh

https://tidal.com/playlist/dc14f15a-7f49-4967-a9f3-e0ee043ae9c3

I have used these songs to test audio equipment for about 10 years now, I hope someone finds it useful

Currently our home amp is 600Watts per channel class A/B.
Specifications:

• Power: 600W x 2
• Frequency Range: 5Hz to 100kHz
• Load Impedance: 4-16
• Input Impedance: 10K-22K
• Input Sensitivity: 350mv
• Total Harmonic Distortion: < 0.1%
• Signal-to-noise ratio: 80dB 
• Power Supply: AC 220V 50-60Hz

All of the output channels have been occupied both A+B sides by the speakers we have

Our subs are 2x 8ohms per channel in parallel making it 4ohms (200 watts per woofer, 400 watts per channel). I have also connected a small box that contains the mids and highs.

Should I get a 2nd amp meant only for the mids and highs? (combined power of 200 watts with mids + highs per channel)

I know this amp we bought is way too powerful for our current system

Also we usually use about 1/8th of the power most of the time as it really powerful

Hi everyone,

Sorry flair is wrong, didn't find one for recessed speakers.
I bought a house, and it turns out there are 2 in-ceiling speakers in the kitchen. I finally found where to wires come out of and made sure they connect to these speakers using a battery.

I want to find and suitable small bluetooth amp to drive them but I'm a bit lost with power wattage necessary. I unmounter one of the speakers to find RMS info, but only got brand part number.

It's paradigm, part No: 2010901020. (See image, sorry it might be a bit distorted)

I tried searching a bit, but I'm mostly getting results for ebay listing of paradigm studio 100 V3, or CR-60, that seem to be tower speakers, without all the info I thought I needed. For the CR-60 it looks like it says suitable power 15-80W (if it even is that speaker). Would I need an amp with twice that (for 2 speakers)? How much would I really need in terms of power?.

I though maybe someone here could help me with that.

Thank you.

Edit: Added the extra info on what I found so far.

https://preview.redd.it/qygm90uydcxd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b6977f7e2c0975447a85fb4c2315c4a923bcbbb

Hi, I'm currently in the design phase of a device that needs an headphone amp. I wonder how the TPA6130A2 performs with higher impedance headphones, as it is feature wise exactly what I was looking for. Unfortunately the datasheet doesn't provide performance characteristics above 32 Ohms, however the output voltage seems to be more than high enough.

Whats your experience/thoughts on this amp?

Hey! I am trying to find a good transistor that can take a 20-25v power source, and have its gate activated by a GPIO pin (DSP powered separately). Im not exactly sure what to look for. Would this work https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/2n5457-d.pdf ?

Any advise on what kind of glue to use to fix this vinyl on the bookshelf speaker please

I’m sure this has been asked, but what is everyone’s current reference guide for how to make a DSP? I’m not talking Dayton PCB; I’m talking design your own circuit and write your own software.

This is my first project i am planning currently don't shoot me down. I have selected following 3 speakers. I have not followed any guide. Please help me with the process.

My goal is to build 3 way studio monitors. Not looking for super flat frequency response but something that can be preset eq'ed between casual and mixing mode.

1. Epique E180HE-44 7" DVC MMAG Extended Range Subwoofer 4 Ohm per Coil. (25 to 3,000Hz, 200W RMS)

2. Dayton Audio PC105-4 4" Full-Range Poly Cone Driver (80 to 15,000Hz, 40W RMS)

3. Dayton Audio NHP25Ti-4 1" Titanium Dome High Power Neodymium Tweeter 4 Ohm (3,000 to 20,000Hz, 40W RMS)

I want to make sure the speakers above are a good choice. Please advise!!

Next, i would like to learn about crossover ,power supply, connectors and boxes.

I am looking to DIY some BT bone conduction headphones in a Dirt Bike helmet so I can listen to music while I ride but still hear my surroundings/radio.

Ideally, I would have some transducers in cutouts in the helmet padding and then have the amplifier, battery etc outside the helmet.

Obviously this is not going to be an audiophile grade setup but I would love to get a fidelity level that is acceptable for music. Are there any transducers out there that can produce that quality?

I have also looked into getting a pair of Shokz and disassembling/repurposing but havent been able to find much. Has anyone tried this route?

Hooked up a dayton audio spa500dsp to a sub and box i had laying around. The sub measured 3.4 ohms on the multimeter so I know it works. I have the rca cable going into the left input. My laptop shows it's receiving signal but the sub is not doing anything. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Hello r/diysound,

I'm hoping some of you can help me out since this isn't my area of expertise—I usually stick to telecom and networking, but I’m always up for a challenge. I have a 30x30 shop where I want to install speakers (hardwired is fine), and I’d also like to add outdoor speakers for a hangout area, mounted on the exterior of the shop.

I figured having two speakers inside the shop and maybe two speakers on the exterior are more than enough for what I am looking for but you will know better than me.

Ideally, I'd like to have the option to control the indoor and outdoor speakers separately, so I can turn off one set while keeping the other on, and vice versa. I don’t need anything extremely loud, but I do want clear sound with decent quality. Heavy bass isn’t a priority for me.

As for the budget, I’d like to stay under $1,500-$2,000 if possible, but I’m open to adjusting it based on what this project might require. Any advice or recommendations on the amplifiers and speakers would be much appreciated!

I need to use a subwoofer for a physics experiment on resonance but I’ve never used this type of equipment before. I thought this subwoofer had a spot for an RCA cable. How the heck do I connect this to my system?

I have a set of well loved Behringer Studio50/USB speakers in which the amp was drastically killed from an electrical surge- Scorch marks on the PCB & completely exploded components... However the drivers & enclosures are great.

I'm looking into resurrecting them with a Fosi Audio TB10A, or maybe spend even more time and integrate a Dayton KAB-2150

I figure it's going to take me $USD 50-100 and at least couple of hours to get it all built and dialed in, and I've done plenty of electrical work so I know what I'm getting into. (not to mention feature creep-itis)

On the other hand, I can pick up a set of Amazon specials (like the Edifier R1280T or the Swans OS-10) for around $100-$150 and they would suit my needs OK, but without the time outlay.

What would you do?

I have never even played close to loud, but somehow this sub now just is making a fart noise now and then.

Instead of scrapping the whole thing, is there a replacement driver you could recommend?

I'm trying to make a 6th order BP subwoofer for my car. I chose this setup after considering other models with various drivers, and modeling them in WinIsd. I've managed to model a 6th, with my targets. And I'm close to my max available space for it (1.75 out of 2 cu ft). I believe an 8th would be larger and I would not be available to accommodate it.

I just want to confirm a couple of facts. The latest model designed, is one considering the effects of an hpf filter for subsonics, and LT to simulate cabin gain. I aimed for an as flat response curve with these filters on, and tweaked for max low extension. Removed the LT filter to confirm sub excursion is within limits, with the filter on. I just want to confirm that this is the most efficient way to design it with minimal box size. Because i was thinking if my procedure is wrong, it might be hard to make changes as increasing box volume after making it is hard. Where as if i model for flat response, without the filters, i can just eq it down as needed.

Obviously I will have to measure cabin gain at the listening position, and installed and oriented the way I intend to do the final install. So the second question is, can I do this with any random sub, in a random box. Extract the cabin gain function, apply it to my model in winisd for more accurate modelling?

I can provide the driver details, and the modelled box details if you require.

Are there any other good waveguide tweeters that could be a good option to pair with the Purifi woofer? Any cons to using a waveguide tweeter for this?

I'm looking to built a 2-way speaker with the Purifi PTT6.5W04-NAA-07 and two passive radiators per speaker (Purifi PTT6.5PR-NF1-01) inspired by the March Audio Sointuva and the Buchardt Anniversary 10. Based on WinISD modeling, Purifi recommendations and the Sointuva I will likely go with a ~15L box.

This is my second build after the CSS 1TDX, and I am hoping for a significant step up in sound quality. I will likely use a Hypex DSP plate amp (FusionAmp FA122 or FusionAmp FA252) and do measurements once I have the box built (using REW & UMIK-2). I like the idea of using a waveguide tweeter to help match the directivity of the woofer, crossover a bit lower, and perhaps reduce ceiling/wall reflections a bit (like in the SB Acoustics Satori TW29BNWG).

Any experienced this? Solutions?

I know this topic has been beaten to death with no consensus but I'm restoring a set of Kappa 6. One of the polydomes failed. If I went the redoming route it would require me to cut up the other intact polydome so that they would match which I don't want to do, so I've decided I'm just going to replace both drivers.

The Midwest Speaker Repairs reproduction driver and Simply Speakers reproduction seem like the best options. As has been pointed out they seem to be virtually the same driver with a slight difference in diaphragm material between the two. Has anyone heard both and have any preferences?

https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/product/mw-audio-mm-2150-3-inch-dome-infinity-copy-midrange/

https://www.simplyspeakers.com/replacement-speaker-dome-midrange-m-330.html

I bought this amp a couple of years ago and all was working fine, however a month ago, I upgraded my solar system from 12V to 24V. The amp supposed to be ok, as it was advertised 12-24V. Today I opened the box (to check something else) and I found this. The amp was still playing, the sound was alright. One of the coils came off during taking the board off. When I checked the power consumption, it takes around 3W on standby on 12V, but that goes to 12W for 24V and that goes into a heat. Definitely a design problem.