Hey all,

I recently got a free formation bar and sub and have run into issues with it (like everyone else has). I’m wondering if there is anything worth to try to salvage out of it. Like could I take the drivers out and use them for some speakers or attempt to make it passive? I realize that factory eq wouldn’t be there anymore, but could that be mitigate with adding some eq of my own? Any input on this would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Hi all,

I would like to make a couple of "soundbar like" shaped speakers for an outdoor scenario that would be integrated into a wall structure firing out over a large open pool area and surrounding open space.

I have been looking at some IP rated speakers that have horn loaded compression tweeters which I understand are good for achieving a long throw in terms of audio performance.

These are the speakers I am looking at:

https://www.kicker.com/48KMXL8

I have two spaces about 1.5 meters long into which I could fit a soundbar like shaped enclosure which could fit perhaps upto 6 of these speakers in a row. My view would be to run these two soundbars as left and right channel.

What I am not familiar with is how these speakers could or should be arranged, ie would filling up the space fully with speakers placed close together be a bad idea, should there be a minimum distance between the speakers and in terms of constructing and enclosure into which would fit, would there be any recommendations.

Are there any companies our there who can produce custome enclosures alone into which speakers can be fitted (and preferably IP rated for outdoor use)

Any suggestions appreciated.

I am a novice and have no knowledge accept for very basic understanding. I bought this secondhand a few years ago and I was having problems with my L speaker going in and out so I figured there was a connection loose. When I opened the back panel this is what I found. The L speaker wire is not plugged in to the yellow port where It's expect it to be based on the setup. When I tried to plug it into the yellow port it just made a humming sound out of the L speaker and no other audio was coming through. Then I noticed this little orange wire hanging off the R speaker connection. While connected to the R connection I spliced it into the L speaker wire. I now have audio coming out of both speakers, but my balance knob only recognizes the R side as being connected. When I turn it to all the way to L speaker only it's silent and when I turn it all the way to R speaker only it's coming out of both. Can anyone tell me why this might have been rigged up like this?

I have 3 "speakers"

My bass amp I can connect wired and it will work like a regular wired speaker that's in the left of my room

TV speakers that's in the center of my room that's connected to my PC via hdmi

Echo dot that I can pair to my PC like a Bluetooth speaker that's in the left of my room

How can I make this a 3 speaker surround setup, I use a PC running windows 11 and planning on using it for games, and movies (I know it wouldnt be that good for music) I also don't have a reciver

I purchased a sheet of teak veneer for my C-Note speakers and it ended up being a lot less uniform than I was expecting. I wasted time being indecisive before the return window closed, so I'm curious if you good people have suggestions for where to orient the front of the speaker. Originally I was going to put the dark section on front (with the pattern oriented vertically) and wrap the lighter parts around the sides, but I can't decide if I should just save this for another project and find something with a little less pattern.

https://preview.redd.it/jxt0jdkf8r2e1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea21fd93c2b72fabfd29d955df261f7a90d76573

Hello!

I want to build my own Partyspeaker. It should be portable and for outdoor use. My idea is a SOUNDBOKS (clone), just more powerful!

Im new to this so if you have some tips for me that would be awesome!

I am trying to use a car radio a few car speakers and old Bluetooth speakers. What kind of battery could I use so it doesn’t need to be plugged in 24/7 dont want it to be like super heavy

My son’s receiver stopped working. What do you recommend for, 4 3-way 12” subwoofers? He has the Cerwin Vega AT-12.

Hello everybody, I recently acquired the DIY Audio bug and I'm already working on my current build. I honestly wanted to go all out on my first build, I'm a engineering student and I happen to work with a lot of simulations softwares like COMSOL and ANSYS so I had big plans to design my own cabinets, run all the simulations, plan everything and be able to say I did it all by myself. Unfortunately, as you all can Imagine, that did not worked out very well. After about a week of a lot of studying and reading about the topic I realized how complex and how much detail, and knowledge goes into such builds. I was essential trying to put years of experience in a first project. Bad Idea. Therefore I decided to chill down and find a build plan online. After some research I found this design from FANE.

https://www.fane-international.com/downloads/Cabinets10inchTrapres.pdf

It's a 8'' , horn loaded PA system which is exactly what I was looking for.

First of all, has anybody did such build before or know FANE speakers? I know FANE as being a famous company for guitar amps and pretty much all the information online is, not surprisingly, about guitar amps.

Second I do have a problem already, the problem being that the horn in the build is discontinued. Is it a huge problem to change the horn? Should I change the compression driver all together? If I do change the CD all together, what exactly do I need to look for so I find one that works well as a replacement for this CD140?

I unfortunately don't have access to a wood shop but I do have access to a CNC at the university. I already did the CAD file for the build if anybody is interested, I would be happy to share it.

Thanks!

Even on the lowest volume setting my phone has, most YouTube and streams are way too loud. I've tried and failed any possible software solutions, so now I'm wondering if there's a potential hardware solution.

Anything I could do to the cable or jack? Any ideas at all?

I'm looking into designing a horn for a compression driver (1.5kHz+), and while the theory looks pretty straight forward, I wasn't able to find the required input parameters from the drivers.

For my understanding, the idea is to match the acoustic air impedance of the driver (Zdriver) with the impedance of air (Zair). This is done by increasing the horn area from the throat (At, high pressure of the driver ) to the mouth ( Am, low pressure of air):

https://preview.redd.it/4945c6vy1b2e1.png?width=595&format=png&auto=webp&s=f0acb0b65bfda3448733d22152f6fba3329f3ae5

I also found one for designing exponential flared horns ( k is the flare rate, WL the width or diameter at the mouth, W0 at the throat, L the horn length):

https://preview.redd.it/rrc4s6hv1b2e1.png?width=629&format=png&auto=webp&s=b9f7391f3f5cfc74ff3ac0ccb41effb338229d95

What I couldn't find is values for the acoustic impedance (not electrical) of the driver ( in my case, Lavoce DN10.172KS) and anything but empirical values for k (0.2-0.4 [1/m], which does not produce anything usable for smaller horns). Is this something folks calculate backwards by building a horn and then measuring the response or is it just a trial & error approach ? Or is there a difference between the theory of how the horn works and how those are designed. I found a lot of designs and even a few models but nothing about the math behind them.

(reposting here as it seems this is the more appropriate subreddit, apologies)

I have an old Jamo E5 2 sub and having been planning to make a 6th order box for it. However, I can't find a spec sheet for the part, in fact I can barely find anything about the speaker its self. Its part no. 20416, its an 8" driver and the box is about 28L with a port diameter of 7cm. Without knowing if the FS is around 28 or 65 I won't know what kind of box to make. I got it second hand for nothing so its a "for fun" DIY nothing serious, they gave it to me because at some point the driver got replaced and they didn't want it because its "too loud". The cone itself is yellow woven as opposed to black, which is odd because the one picture I found for the part no. shows a black cone, but the sticker on the magnet says 20416, its quite the mystery!

I'm asking for suggestions and ideas/advice rather than someone to do the work for me. Anything that can point me in the right direction, or suggestions on what I can use these parts for is greatly appreciated

Things I'm considering:
Model the current box in Akabak, test other Jamo speakers around the same part no. to see what makes sense.
Get a new driver and use the old amp in a fresh box (I'm unexperienced in knowing how to match a driver to the amp).

I recently built a portable speaker, and there has been some discussion in the post about Speaker/Amplifier max RMS and how that impacts the battery. For my 400W subwoofer, I measured an average of 5 Amps at 12V (60W). My Soundboks, which has 3x75W drivers and a 9Ah battery, advertises a runtime of 6 hours at max volume—suggesting an actual power draw of less than 18W.

To explore this further, I created a MATLAB script that analyzes MP3 files. It performs a frequency analysis to calculate the average power consumption, which can then be directly translated into the DC draw from a battery. It also estimates power consumption within specific frequency bands for a given speaker.

For simplicity, I assumed 100% amplifier efficiency and a flat frequency response from 0-20kHz since my focus was solely on the energy content of the music itself. After running the script on a few songs, I found that only about 10-15% of the max RMS power is consumed on average. I thought this might be interesting for others who are considering how to size their batteries.

Below, you’ll find the output for one song and a comparison to a pure 400Hz sinusoidal signal. I'll also add the script if anyone wants to experiment with it. It’s straightforward to use—just update the max RMS power to match your setup and point it to an MP3 file ( for some reason I can't post a link and an image, I'll just post the link or plain script text as comment)

https://preview.redd.it/7vkzu5x0qr1e1.jpg?width=1139&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90279fc0a477309a59a60f059871f86bd1a08762

https://preview.redd.it/3c1d96x0qr1e1.jpg?width=1210&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cfc32de753872b775c30ffe0c779d2effda1fe7

Hello dears!

This is my first schematic and first post here.
I draw schematic based on baritonomarchetto pcb 

can i use your smarter brains collectivly and pin out some obvious errors in this schematic

https://preview.redd.it/js22snlvfm1e1.png?width=1002&format=png&auto=webp&s=2869ea19bc47bfe6c0ccd924b0991b65a4fed636

I am making a sound system for an art installation my idea is making the super scooper design for 18inch drivers but half the size and make it with 8inch drivers. Im also variations in the design as seen in the picture. Does anyone have an idea of how much this will affect the sound quality and Hz range? And in what way it would affect the sound of these speakers?

Hey buddies, I currently run about 1600 peak watts in my portable PA system (550 x 2 from speakers, 500 from a sub). I like the lower watt setup because I'm in a lot of situations where I can only run one outlet, but I have been trying to figure out what 18" sub I would like to add to my setup. I've really been considering a pre sonus AIR18s but my only concern is the 1200 peak watts (about 600 rms). I have never blown a breaker and I would like to keep that to be the case, so is this sub viable for that? I am def worried I would just have to hold it back when running one outlet. I am also looking at another 500W 18" sub. If that would also have a high probability of blowing breakers (at 2100W peak total) I could just get the 1200W and another 50' extension cable. the AIR 18s has a 129dB SPL while the VQ1800D (the 500W) is a 124dB SPL. thanks

Good afternoon, looking to get a first turntable for my son, some entry model. Does anyone know if a standard turntable can be connected to our Yamaha crx-e300 for it to work as speakers? Thank you

First speaker build. Wanted something with a bit more LF SPL than my Soundboks while stretching the word portable :) Originally had wanted a folded horn but after diving more into the whole topic figured it wasn't the best solution for that particular task.

FaitalPro 15PR400, 400W RMS, 130l volume, 2 double flared ports, 45lbs (without battery/amp), tuned to 35Hz, SFB-1000D runs with 500W@12V on a lithium battery. (I was surprised how little a 400W sub actually uses at max excursion, even when playing bass heavy tracks, I rarely exceeded 5A DC drawn from the battery)

Made from 3/4 coosa bluewater composite panels (waterproof, lighter & stronger than ply though less rigid-> used lots of bracing), cut on a waterjet. Ports are 3D printed.

Its actually not that bad to carry, I made a rack with straps so it sits nicely on my back and carry battery + amp in my hands. Then I only need a 2nd person for the soundboks & turntables and a 3rd for the beers.

Next step is to build a smaller 80-20khz 2way with 10" woofer + compression horn that sits on top and houses all the amps, dsp, bluetooth and battery, so I can get rid of the Soundboks completely. That one can then also be used standalone, just with less bass.

I rent out a pretty basic system for events as a budget alternative to a full DJ. My clients lost the fuse holder but later found it. After placing it in the speaker they noticed there was no fuse in the holder, and someone went to purchase a new one. I sent him the correct typing and after returning and attempting to install the new fuse the system still did not work. This event was 1.5 hrs from me so I am unable to inspect. Any ideas as to issues here? I am quite paranoid and I'm hoping after the system is returned to me I will be able to figure it out... If it's not something simple with the fuse or holder what else could it be?

Hello everyone, im not sure if this is the right place for this, but im working on a protogen head (hahaha laugh at the furry.) and i had an idea that i thought would be very cool. That idea is why im here and not on a fursuit making/cosplay sub. Essentially what i want is, there's two circular pieces on the side of the head that look like speakers'/antennas. I want to make them actual speakers tho, but ive never done any kind of speaker work or anything, so i guess what it really comes down to, is what are some good kits/parts or good placea to start looking into something like that? I was thinking something like two bluetooth speakers that are wired together or something (again, never done this so idk what's possible exactly. Sorry if this is poorly explained. Im super new to any of this.

Hi everyone,

I am new to the sub and would like to collect some of your knowledge for an upcoming amp project.

I am planning on designing my own class A/B or B amplifier, likely BJT based. I am an electronics engineer, mainly focussed on analog and power electronics, so I have a reasonable idea of what I am getting into.

However, I would also like to add digital inputs to the amplifier to connect it directly to my TV or other gear. Specifically, I was thinking of adding an optical input. This will require an audio DAC and a bunch of other digital electronics with which I am less familiar.

For this reason I am planning on buying that part of the system. I have found some modules from 'Ian Canada' on audiophonics, but am a bit at a loss of what I would need and what has decent price to performance.

While we are in the realm of DACs, it would be nice to be able to stream directly to the amplifier over wifi. Is there an easy add-on or all-in-one digital system for that? Would it be a problem (reception wise) if I place it within the metal housing of my amplifier?

Thanks for the help!

So i got this camecho brand stereo for my 2009 vw passat 2.0T tsi comfortline and i am wondering whats the best network can set option / other options to have it set to for my car to get the best outcome for my sound quality ( less distortion better bluetooth connection ) as well as looks /features & just basic functionality on the stereo? Is there a way to upload through sd card or usb computer/phone connection to upgrade anything and does my can bus being located behind the stereo itself affecting the quality? *Keep in mind i also replaced from door speakers with 250watt pioneers and then the backs door speakers with kenwood 150watt or 180watt (somewhere in that range i forget now i got no box bought them second hand) my guess would be a amp added if anything along with proper set up of the stereo settings? Just unsure how to attach a amp as well lol if needed any tips on easy ways to add the amp ( also planning to get a subwoofer with a seperate amp because thats what online recommends is 2 seperate amps one for door speakers one for the subwoofer itself to prevent any distortion) thanks hopefully this reaches where it needs to so i can find solutions! ✓🛸