So I have built a couple of portable Bluetooth speaker builds now and each time want to step up the quality. My last build I used a 12v 18650 battery pack and the Dayton KAB-250 bluetooth board to power 2x Dayton ND91-8 3-1/2" drivers. The speaker works great and I want to build one almost exactly the same but want it to charge with a normal USBC cable like any portable speaker you would buy off of the shelf. My last build requires a 12.6v 1A charger that I have to keep up with rather than being able to use a common usb-a to USB-C cable. I am having some difficulty figuring out the best way to go about doing this. I am open to anything.

Hey everyone,

I'm in the midst of planning an event and I'm grappling with the logistics of powering my audio setup. I've got 2 EV ETX 18SP subs, each rated at 1.8kW, and 2 EV ETX 35P tops, each with a 2kW rating. This totals up to 7.6kW of output power for the speakers.

Now, I'm stuck trying to figure out the size of the generator I need. A friend mentioned to me that the output power of the speakers isn't directly equal to the input power they require from a power source, and that it would be a completely different figure. I understood it in such a way that you simply need to add the losses and the actual power needed might be higher. So, based on this, if my speakers have a combined output power of 7.6kW, I'm assuming I'll need a generator that can handle more than this due to the efficiency and power loss during conversion.

My question to you all is, would a generator with a capacity of 7.6kW plus an additional 25% to cover losses and inefficiencies (which brings it to roughly 9.5kW) be sufficient? Or is there a different way I should be calculating the necessary power to ensure my event goes smoothly without any power hiccups?

I’d really appreciate any advice, experiences, or insights you could share to help me make sure I'm on the right track with planning the power requirements for my speakers.

Thanks in advance!

Right up front I know jack about audio equipment and have always found understanding power requirements for equipment confusing so please ignore my ignorance. I have a small aluminum boat that I built a custom deck and compartments into to make a poor mans small bass boat. Wanted some form of a sound system so I bought two JL audio MX770-CCX-SG-TP speakers and at the recommendation of another forum a Fusion MS-RA55 head unit. At the time i didn't really have a plan or the space for an amp and other people said the RA55 would run the speakers ok. For the most part they sound fine but they are really being under powered and id really like to get more when I'm cruising at full speed. The RA55 built in amp says its (25 watts RMS/45 peak power x 4 channels) the jl's power rating is 25-75 watts RMS (225 watts peak), found a video today for a marine kenwood KAC-M5014 which has these power ratings

• 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms
• 75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms
• 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms

Basically all I want to know is if this will be a good paring with my current setup. $200 price isn't terrible but if I could get away with something cheaper that is decent quality and a small footprint then I would prefer that. No plans on growing the system down the line since I don't have any more room and those two speakers should be plenty.

Appreciate any advise.

Thanks

Hey im building a budget amplifier and noticed that my 6J1 Preamp output is single ended but my class d amplifier is btl. Anyone got any ideas or boards they could recommend? I was looking at this chip (MP7720 20w class d) earlier and wondering if y’all think it could do

I’ve a hand-me-down JVC RX-558VBK, home theater surround 5.1. The line input on the subwoofer has become disconnected requiring repair. Should I locate a service for repair or replace?

I have an old Tannoy SFX subwoofer enclosure + driver and two Dayton Audio DMA80-4 3" drivers. The electronics in the subwoofer are all fried. Would it be possible to possible to create something all-in-1 with that enclosure? Any interesting build ideas welcomed.

https://preview.redd.it/k0cdm675vusc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5976b4871ac25d7aaaff6e477b5573cb30cdca6f

I’m a bass player in a rather newish metal band in the Midwest. Currently I have 2 cans that I would like to combine. A peavey 410 and a peavey 215.

What I want to do is make 2 cabs with 2x10” speakers and 1x15” speaker. My issue is I have no idea where to start with building the enclosures.

Any advise or does anyone know where I can go plug numbers in and get the required volume?

Hi who knows/what are the most efficient pa subwoofer designs out there?

Have found some compact dual 10 subs and single folded horn 12’ (mth30) that are really efficient but are there any other subs that hit 104+db/1w and are reasonably small? Subs dont need to go lower then 40 hz

Box is supposed to be tuned to 33hz but i missed the port width so om not sure what will happen as this is my first build and i dont really understand port tuning and such. Vb is ~1,2 cubic feet, port width is ~1,7 inches, port height is ~ 13 inches and port length is ~ 23,7 inches. Everything but port and top is assembled so i can make different port if needed. Distance between baffle and wall (where the port slot opening will be) is ~1,7 inches. Box is for 10 inch subwoofer. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Hi all!
I got a pair of Jamo Studio 180 for free, pretty beaten up, so I have decided to have this project of restore and/or trying to improve them.

My plan is to add some dampening material on the inside and build a crossover with an actual base (on the speakers, these are sort of hanging freely and soldered with the speakers joints.

These are the models of the inner drivers:

Jamo 22503 - woofer
Jamo 20471 - midrange
Jamo 20132 - tweeter

What I would like to do is to design a crossover filter that can help the work of the drivers. However, I can't get the data of the drivers. Jamo's website does not seem to be very helpful, and I get no possibility of contacting a technical support.

What would you do in these cases? I do have a decent measuring microphone for taking each drivers freq response. If this is the case, what would you suggest? Any hint is well appreciated!

Thanks!

Im looking to upgrade the system on my pontoon boat that has a hard top bimini. I am looking at either 2 JL M6-880ETX 8.9” tower speakers or 4 JL M3-770ETXv3 7.7” tower speakers and the MHD600/4 JL amp. Ive got three batteries and run a honda 1000 generator im not real worried about supplying the power thats pretty covered. But as far as sound what do yall thinks best.

hi just got into diy speakers. wanted to know if there was a comprehensive part list or video that would explain everything. have close to 0 knowledge about audio and just thought it was an interesting hobby to embark on. thank u

Hello!
I am building short-folded horn subwoofers with 21" drivers. What parameters should I look for when choosing drivers? Enclosure size is about 870x580x850 mm.

I am interested in high pressure, since it will mostly be used for 140 dubstep / dub.

Here are a few that I've found so far that can be shipped to where I live, which ones would you suggest out of these? Or perhaps there are better options? My price range is 500-600EUR.

https://preview.redd.it/s793owh79vrc1.jpg?width=1963&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4b00dc7c8e850af45455494214f60fe7653c493c

https://preview.redd.it/ypu29vh79vrc1.jpg?width=2050&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0643389a101b04764996b4ebf1a69cdcd694ae5a

https://preview.redd.it/5mmr76i79vrc1.jpg?width=2067&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=565cf3eb1cff5027574a448f2a39c8d3be14126c

https://preview.redd.it/9jm5rvh79vrc1.jpg?width=740&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1a4ad915721c1f6e22dfe9972531656e23dca88

https://preview.redd.it/k5mplwh79vrc1.jpg?width=707&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77f1fa1eaddc79824b312052a8d06929362b559c

https://preview.redd.it/0vxwyvh79vrc1.jpg?width=879&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=773510888e5e8fabe91d10541f659d5c4be02416

I Want to do 3 separate Potentiometers on my speaker build. My First one works well enough i have it connected to ADC_1 and MP4(Which is set as output GPIO), That one works. However whenever i try to use any of the other ADC Inputs they don't work. Unless i set the other pin they are connected to, to an Input GPIO, then it sort of works (Only changing values slightly, which isn't enough). And anytime i switch the first one to a different ADC it still works on the ADC_1 block in sigma studio. Im using a ADAU1701 btw

First time posting here so not sure if right flair, but have a pair of R-28PF speakers that I am trying to convert to passive after they stopped working. Initially I could flip power switch a few times and they would just suddenly start to work. Alas, the fix stopped fixing, and now all I hear is a small popping sound in the speakers. I figure it is the amp because when I run a “sub audio out” to my powered sub, the noise is carried over and can be heard through the sub.

After taking amp out, deciding I am going to try to attempt to convert them to passive speakers and purchase crossovers and an amp.

Anyone have suggestion or guides that will help w this process ?

I'm planning to build a speaker similar to the DIY Sound Group HT-88.

I'm thinking of using the same woofer, Celestion TF0818 woofer and the B&C DE250 compression driver.
Does anyone know if these will work well together?

Also, does anyone know what crossover the HT-88 uses? Does anybody has a similar crossover design? I'm aiming for a crossover frequency of around 1450 Hz for the B&C DE250 , but I'm not sure about the specifics.

Does anyone know what size the ports should be?

Lastly, I'm in Europe and wondering if there are any alternative waveguides similar to the Denovo SEOS-77 that I can find here?

Thanks for any help or advice you can give!

I've got a line on a pair of klipsch speakers with k-47 drivers. I stumbled across a post saying that they'd do well in a sealed 12 cubic foot enclosure. Any thoughts about using them in a full Morty build, instead of the typical UM18-22?

i currently have a 200 liter subwoofer in a 4400 liter room. opening the door into a bigger room makes it kinda like a 6th order speaker and it sounds a lot like the winisd model i made for it. with a big spike (and a lot of wind) at 30 hertz. in the bigger room with a volume yet to be measured it gets pretty loud at the opposite corner of the door. right where it has a window. now i was wondering if i could model this as a 8th order enclosure for if the windows are open and maybe even make an extension to get other resonance frequency's. i have looked for software to model this, but didn't find anything other than hornresp which i can't seem to get working for anything other than a horn. does any1 know what software i should use for this?

hi i know next to nothing about sound or speakers so talk to me like a baby. i want to embed an audio player in a wearable art piece i'm making. basically its like a large hat and i want to put a speaker that can play audio so when you put it on, you can hear an approx. 5 minute audio of me speaking. ideally it would require minimal upkeep - i'll design a way to access it but i wouldn't want to be going in to press play or charge any devices or anything. also, since it will be worn, it would need to be a) wireless and b) not super heavy. any suggestions for how to go about this or places i could go to learn more?

Hello all,

I'm in the process of trying to rebuild a two-way monitoring speaker out of refurbished parts.

Some guy has put up for sale a mackie Mr8 mk3 Amp module. This amp pushes 80-100 watts to the mid-bass section and then makes a crossover at 3000 hertz. (originally uses a 8 inches polypropylene)

Another guy has put up for sale this 8 inches jl sub for about 40€ but doesnt know the ref (no label) albeit it looks like a 8w0 or 8w1 (dont know if it is a 4 ohms or 8 tho)

I just wanted your advise, I really like the jl brand and their reliability. But could a 8w0 or 8w1 fit the bill for a bass-mid section up to 3000 hertz (ported enclosure with the rights dimensions of course) ? It is a 8 inches poly cone, with around 100 watts rms of indicated power supply.

Hey! I have some very bad white noise / coil whine on my speakers that are going through an adau1701 DSP. What is a simple white noise removal circuit in SigmaStuido?

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https://www.focal-america.com/product/30-a4/

There's one on marketplace near me, brand new, guy is asking 250 CAD but I would probably talk him down a bit. Would it make a good driver to build a DIY home sub? How would it compare to Dayton RSS265HO, which retails for 243 CAD (+tx) at solen?

I’m currently trying to operate my Billy Bass using an xy-t50h amplifier and Bluetooth module. I wanted to know if this could be connected to an arduino nano in any way to try and run some code as well. Here is a picture of the amplifier.

One primed, one built, paint coming soon!