Check out /r/diysound and /r/diytubes for more DIY fun!

ve been using DT770 with my Scarlett Focusrite 2i2 for a couple of years now and they’ve never gave me any issues. I have dropped the headphones them many times and never any problems .

But the other day, I dropped my headphones, not hard, but after plugging them back in the left headphone isn’t working. I took the left side of the headphone apart and from the looks all of the solder is still there and attatched.

I’ve tried looking online and can’t find anything. It is probably a really simple fix though. Does anyone know or has had a similar problem? I’m really hoping I don’t have to go and spend $170 a new set today

Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew of a good adapter/receiver that can make a pair of razer kraken v3 x wired headphones into wireless headphones for my PC? I am imagining I would need a Bluetooth aux adapter to plug into the headset and then a usb receiver to plug into my laptop as I'm unable to access the Bluetooth settings. But I am not sure what products work with one another and if any of them would actually work this way. Plus I would still like for the microphone function to work as well so again unsure if that needs a special kind of adapter or not. If anyone knows a good way to go about making this headset into a wireless headset I would love to know! Many thanks

Why not spruce your Sony headphones up with a nice set of expressive decals? 🙂
https://xlntcut.etsy.com

https://preview.redd.it/a24rvra8iiwd1.png?width=1024&format=png&auto=webp&s=38ff4a55947a082a20cbf93ef15dc4b03bf6ecaa

What’s a good idea to make something good out of fake Monster beats pro as a first project? They have 40mm drivers and are closed back with plastic (cheap) covers. I mean: which drivers would you suggest installing (about 30€/$ from aliexpress) and how would you intervene on back covers

So as the title suggests, I'm looking for a 50MM driver that is kinda a suitable drop in replacement for my old Pioneer SE-401's sadly the left driver is blown and I can't|

A. Find a direct replacement.
B. Find another dead pair that I can parts strip (mostly due to cost and rarity)

So I come to ask, can anyone reccomend me a good replacement 50MM driver that would be an ok fit (I'm gonna keep these not sell em so I'm happy with whatever I can get)
Cost isn't a huge issue but I don't fancy spending like £50+ per driver haha but as long as they are about 50mm for just the driver and I could do a drop in that would be fab!
I've seen a few "50MM" drivers but they are more like 60/70MM w the flange/outer rim, I was looking at a replacement beyerdynamic driver pair and butchering them from their outer ring but idk if that would work or affect the sound of said drivers.

Note: I know the part number for the original replacement (SPEAKER ASSY - SXC-143) but due to the age it'll be hard to find that stock and trust me I've spent hours looking lol.
Also pics below are of the blown driver for reference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Dave.

https://preview.redd.it/c3ba3p8ccavd1.png?width=4000&format=png&auto=webp&s=291d160847c862a559eb2e5c6e8b03c652280f33

https://preview.redd.it/ia0dxfyccavd1.png?width=4000&format=png&auto=webp&s=7c82fd512ea515fec1968ddd22346ae356bcc188

https://preview.redd.it/wy9qi0fdcavd1.png?width=4000&format=png&auto=webp&s=ffa94d39df93093d37f308092b173e314ae337af

Okay, first of all, I apologise about my bad English. Now, let's get to the topic.

I want to do a dual input system for my Samson sr850, one jack 3,5mm unbalanced, and a balanced input. But, I don't know which is the standard jack input of balanced inputs. Could anyone give me a hint? I can do two cables (one on each driver) or whatever more compatibility has, as long it's jack.

Then, which plugs would you use? I mean, which brand and type of plugs do I solder on the headphones??

Any answer will be appreciated :)

I wanted to be able to use a little boom mic with my Hifiman HE-4XX headphones, and I thought: "Surely there is a boom mic that plugs into the left mono with a mic as well as having a right mono plug." Well, the only thing I could find on the market was this Meze Boom mic for $79 - I'm guessing it's a great product, but I wasn't willing to shell out that cash. I found this Behringer B12 Premium Headphone Cable with Boom Mic at Sweetwater for under $5 and tried to think how I could get the right channel from the stereo output over to the right using some set of adapters - But I couldn't find anything to suit. So I ordered the Behringer mic hoping I'd come up with a solution, and wondering if Sweetwater would still send me a bag of candy for a humble purchase of $4.90 shipped (they did).

Once it arrived, (after eating a Bit-O-Honey) I looked at the position of the volume control / mic mute box, and it was just about the same length down as my stock dual mono cord that came with the headphones. I wondered if I could clip off the right channel and solder on another cable, so I cracked it open without too much trouble (it just has 4 plastic posts on one side that lock into the other side, no screws or adhesive to deal with).

At this point, I worried about not actually having real mono plugs for the left and right. I thought, maybe I need to wire it up so the right signal is going to both the left and right channels of the plug? But when I checked my stock cord, I noticed it also uses stereo plugs for left and right, and it's just wired with the respective channel fed to the tip (usually left channel), with the ring (usually right channel) having no connection. In any case, mono plugs only connect at the tip as well and just have a longer ground segment, so I'm glad I didn't try to feed to both tip and ring.

There were convenient solder points on the board, it is actually marked with "L" and "R" - So I just clipped the right channel wire and soldered on my own 3.5mm cord I had laying around. The ground is on the opposite side, but was also not difficult to solder onto the pad.

I used wire cutters and a utility knife to carve out a spot for the cord to come through, and my "strain relief" was just a slot pinched into the insulation to slide it snuggly into the cutout hole. I was originally planning to angle it out more diagonally, but to do that I would have had to cut off one of the 4 connecting posts, so I had to go at a right angle.

Had I planned it properly, I probably would have bought another headset or maybe this $3.90 one with in-line mic, just to have a matching braided cable. Maybe I'll do that at some point (probably too lazy to do it until my original setup fails).

It's not the prettiest mod, but it gets the job done, and the mic is exactly what I was looking for.

Converting Behringer Cord with Boom Mic from Stereo to Dual Mono for use with my HE-4XX

I have not found any headphones more comfortable than the Philips SHP9500 yet. But I have pulled out the plug so many times moving around and it annoyed me. I have tried many bluetooth over ear and in ear solutions (haven't tried airpods which is next). If I could have the comfort of the Philips I don't mind not having ANC. Is there a bluetooth dongle that's decent for gaming but also usable for the airplane to watch movies? Ideally I would be able to attach the headphone portion of the dongle to the headphone itself to minimize any dangling. Budget ideally $200 and under am okay with waiting for a sale or used.

https://preview.redd.it/mfpfzt3ksssd1.jpg?width=2272&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82c4e011c1af0c8fae842cbe294ddf784db84ddd

I’m currently trying to repair a friend's headphones. He has an Audeze LCD-1 which has started disintegrating, at least the plastic. They still work electronically and sound wise (the earcups are in good condition)

since the headphones have a cable attached to each earcup (I am using earcup here because that was the nearest word I could find to describe the part of the headphones where the sound comes from). However he cannot use them due to their poor mechanical condition. Also he can not get them fixed since the warranty has expired.

So everything from the yoke and above needs to be replaced. First question, is there anyone who already have done this work? And with the work, I mean a complete rebuilding of the headphones from the bracket and up. So I can just print it and attach headphones to the earcups.

If that is not the case the plan I have is to take an existing headphone design and adjust the part that connects the earcups so they fit to his headphones. I think I can make the yokes but I was wondering if anyone has already made replacements yokes for Audeze LCD-1? For example similar to these:

• WH-CH510 replacment bracket

These are the headphones I have found that I am thinking of adjusting to his earcups:

• Tofty Headband 1

• Tofty Headphones 4: Aurorus Borealis Inspired

• Headphonesty: Best 3D Printed Headphones

Are there any I have overlooked? Any that are better than the ones I have already found? It is important that they can adjust their height. It would be nice if they are aesthetically pleasing but that is only an additional requirement.

So to sum up these are my questions:

• Does anyone have completely fixed the Audeze LCD-1 headphones?

• Is there yoke replacements for Audeze LCD-1 headphones?

• Is there any headphones I have overlooked in my search?

As the title says I have some dekoni nuggets I want to attach to my HD800s headband. The issue is the headband is a felt-like material and the 3M adhesive that came on the nuggets (I believe it's "VHB") does not stick to it at all.

Anyone have recommendations for an adhesive that my work on a felt/foam adjacent headband like this?

I have the hyperx cloud 3 wireless and i bought it thinking i dont need bluetooth.. yeah but after series of unfortunate events i had to move into a new place and i desperately need to connect them to my WebOS tv.. it has bluetooth, optical and hdmi but doesnt have usb b/c audio output.. how do i go about this.. i cant find direct adapters and i have no idea what to do

Hey guys. I was thinking of getting some headphones to use for traveling, since it's about an hour to reach my university. Having that in mind, I would like for them to have noise cancellation. I did some research, and I really like the Soundcore Space One and I'm thinking of buying it. Does anybody have any better suggestions that are around 70-100 euros?

It's alright if I go a little over budget if it is worth the money, but I would also like a case for the headphones to be included since I will be having it in my backpack for long amounts of time.

I need a little help finding a good driver, for my DIY project, I found a great website that sells loads of drivers speaker and headphone, I need 50mm, and I want it to be amazing. I found a project that uses these but I wasn't a fan of the graph

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-CE38MB-32-1-1-2-Mini-Speaker-Black-32-Ohm-285-131?quantity=1

So I found these, some people on reddit like these

https://www.parts-express.com/Peerless-HPD-50N25PR00-32-2-Headphone-Driver-Diaphragm-264-1510?quantity=2000

Here's the challenge, it Need's a low enough impedance to be able to run on a phone, the old drivers are 250 oHm and need a big AMP

Hello! I would like some advice to get a pair of DJ cans with the strongest possible isolation, of around -30 db or more.

I'll play the drumset with them , but I play a lot of electronic music oriented stuff. I need them to be "over the ear" , to really isolate properly.

My ideas go towards the V modas LP2 , M100 , Pioneer HDJx5 , X7 or x10 , however , I am open to suggestions as Long as the headphones are DJ cans.

Please , dont recommend IEM or Headphones which are not DJ targeted , as I have already tried some and didnt like them. Thanks!

Thinking about modding my Sony MDR-7506’s and I want it to be Bluetooth and still retain a 3.5 mm female port.

For the purpose of using it Bluetooth with my iPhone when needed, and then using it for DJing when I need too. Then it’s an all and one device for me.

But I want to keep it super tidy and have the Bluetooth receiver either within the headphones itself, or get a really tiny Bluetooth receiver that has a 3.5 mm female passthrough port ?

Any ideas?

Firstly, I'm not an audiophile or anything. I've modded stuff, but headphones are new to me. So I got some MPOW H19 IPO headphones at goodwill for $2. Pretty good deal. So, I'm left handed, and I'm curious if there's any way to reasonably do a physical mod that switches the right and left audio so that I can have the right side's controls on the left ear without surround sound being inverted.

Incredible. The powerful open sound of the Koss Ksc35 is a big surprise!

The unpleasant ear clip and the stupid high price: more than double the price of the KSC75 for both cabled and wireless KSC35 is rather strange.

But as a devoted Koss fan, owning most of the interesting Koss models, this is a must have that will make you appreciate The Sound of Koss even mote…

Hi all,

Just wondering if this actually works.

I have them sitting here, was told they fit, but they're quite small and round.

I can just someone stretch the Porta Pro pads to fit the KPH30i?

Dekoni says theirs works, but wasn't sure if it applied to factory PP pads.

Anyone done this?

Hi,

I have a Quiet Comfort 15 Bose headphone & it is starting to fail with a total loss of sound. Given that the failure seems triggerable by manipulating the left side of the headphone, particularly at the hinge area, and given that upon close examination I have found the cable between the speakers which runs through the headband, I'm pretty sure I have a bad cable (it's probably shorting out in areas where the enamel insulation has worn from use).

The problem I have is that I do not know where to source a replacement for this. I had thought about simply sacrificing an audio jack cable, but, as I feared, it doesn't have the needed number of conductors. The audio jack cable has three multi-stranded conductors (red, blue & copper) whereas the cable in the headband connecting the two sides of the headphone has 4 conductors (red, blue, green & copper).

Any ideas about where to source a replacement for this wiring?

ETA: Also, because the cable runs through various channels, total thickness (which seems to be somewhere in the vicinity of 1.75 mm) may be an issue.