I’m trying to resurrect a 20 year old MTX Subwoofer which the surround just gave up on.
Problem seems to be finding a quality replacement that has a correct(ish) profile to it.

The T-series seems to have a surround that was fairly flat on the inner half of the suspension, then curved more as it got closer to the basket.

Now, this is my first attempt, so it may be a non-issue, but I’m trying to keep from fixing it with wrong parts and then it blows because of it.

Any help/thoughts/suggestions appreciated, and TIA. MTX Thunder-6000. 10”

I want to experiment with crossovers. I own some 2.2 uF capacitors that are actually made for this use. I wanted to experiment with second-order crossovers, so I bought a bunch of inductors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B094HVCJW2

They seem to work fine to create a high-pass filter when I use a 68uH inductor from that set.

I can buy a better inductor later, but are these fine for experimenting? I don't know what sort of bad effects on the audio I should be listening for. I wish I could find some kind of demonstration of what a "bad crossover inductor" is supposed to sound like so I can know what I'm supposed to be listening for.

Hi All,

I am starting to build a squeezebox speaker for the house. The plan is to reuse an existing center channel speaker. I am currently waiting to receive a squeezeAmp, which contains an ESP32, additional IO, and an embedded amp that utilizes TI's TAS575x stereo class-D amplifier for up to 2x20W. The squeezeamp and DC power supply with be installed internally in the speaker case.

For the Speaker, I got a second hand Paradigm CC-170 center channel. It has 2 mids, crossover, and a tweeter. My thought was to use the two mids as L/R and somehow mix the L/R for the tweeter.

And now that I am typing this out, duh, I guess doing that would be removing the crossover from the mids. I guess that's not great.

So perhaps mono would be the way to go? TAS5754M supports Mono Parallel Bridge Tied Load (PBTL) according to the data sheet. So how would this be wired?

Okay, what do you guys think of this setup:

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-RC180-55-2-x-7-Res-Core-Neodymium-Woofer-4-Ohm-295-248?quantity=1

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-AMTPRO-4-Air-Motion-Transformer-Tweeter-275-094?quantity=1

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-XO2W-2K-2-Way-Crossover-2-000-Hz-260-140?quantity=1

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-KABM-30M-1-x-30W-Bluetooth-5.0-Amp-Board-with-EQ-Programing-Port-325-530?quantity=1

I'm not sure if that crossover is right. This would be a first build with parts that aren't cheap Amazon crap. I kinda like the idea of two rectangular speakers, it seems different.

I want to make myself a balanced cable. For that, I bought a single crystal copper cable with 8 braid and a shielded cable as it's suggested by the seller. The shielded cable is simple enough as the cables are colour coded. However the copper braid are not. How do I tell apart them? Can I separate them before hand and braid them after? Do the shielded cable sounds like snakeoil? Can I connect a 4.4mm on the headphone end to a 3.5mm to the source? As I don't have portable dac with 3.5mm I plan to make a balanced cable for home use and non balanced for outside.

When researching what wood materials to use for a speaker enclosure, I never saw PAL mentioned once.

Well, it is mostly empty since it's made out of small wood pieces, but how much would that affect audio quality negatively compared to MDF for example?

I just want some heads up, please don't be too hard in the comments.

I want to know why people that build high-end passive speakers use those gold contact banana plugs terminals that also support bare wires instead of going for spring-held wire terminals.

I mean, I don't want to sound offensive here, but does it actually affect sound quality at all? Compatibility and quicker disconnection through banana plugs is always good to have, but if i can buy a simple wire terminal for 20 cents on AliExpress when a gold contact screw-in one is 6 dollars, the cheaper one will always be my first choice, since most people put it behind the speaker and it won't be seen.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

want to connect my amp to my audio interface, amp has Left 3.5mm female and right 3.5mm female and the interface has the same thing but in 1/4 inch jacks. I have a lot of speaker wire and i am trying to find screw in connectors that i can solder the wire too to make my own 3.5mm to 1/4 male to male cable as premade cables are pretty pricey for what it is. been looking on amazon and aliexpress and everything seems to be stereo or 4 pole

Hi, I'm very new to the scene and I've been soaking up as much information as I can, and have decided muster up the courage to design and build my first speaker. I've decided to tackle my center channel speaker because the one I have was a kit one, that came with the AVR. I'm going to upgrade, but I really like the idea of learning to do everything myself, and I planned my build, as far as components and crossover. I still need to plan the box, but this is what I have so far.
Its a MTM design. I wanted to make a 3 way, but since its my first, I figure I can make a 2 way and cannibalize the components later to upgrade it if I feel my humble system needs it.

The AVR is a
Onkyo TX-NR7100

The Drivers
2x Dayton Audio DSA215-8 8" Designer Series Aluminum Cone Woofer
1x Dayton Audio ND25FA-4 1" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter

Crossover Components
Dayton Audio 0.27mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Air Core Speaker Crossover Inductor Coil
3 Ohm 10W Resistor Wire Wound 5% Tolerance
Jantzen Audio 3.3mH 15 AWG P-Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio DPR20-10.0 10 Ohm 20 Watt Precision 1% Audio Grade Bifilar Resistor
3x Audyn Cap Q4 10uF 400V MKP Metalized Polypropylene Foil Crossover Capacitor

The Crossover was designed in VirtuixCAD
I haven't done this before, so I'm really unsure if it would work or not. I'm still unsure how the drivers Impedance works with the crossover components there, and I'm not sure if I'm using the "Target" line correctly in VirtuixCAD (the reason I added the resistors in the crossovers, or if they were unnecessary.

Any help is appreciated. I just don't want to damage my receiver, and I want clearer dialogue. Those are my goals. Thanks for your time and knowledge.

Crossover Layout

Shopping Cart

I'm currently drawing up my front baffle but I'm a bit torn wether I should go with ported or a sealed enclosure.

Some additional information: I currently have a sonos surround set (gen1 playbar and gen1 play1 surround speakers) which I find lacking in bass. The room is roughly 50m2 and the speakers will be 2m apart and 5m from the listening position and placed mere centimeters from the wall. The speakers will be 250mm wide and 400mm high and will be fitted with a sb17nrx2c35-8 woofer and ds2608 tweeter. The speakers will be fitted with spikes/rubber feet to decouple them from the closet they will be standing on. I want them as efficient as possible since I plan on driving them with a tube amp in the future.

The crossover will be build based on REW data after building the speakers, so tuning afterwards is possible to some degree. Music wise will be mostly metal/rock and some radio and hip-hop. I would like to hook up the television as well and we watch mostly action/sci-fi movies with the occasional tear jerker movie.

I lean towards ported with the port in the front baffle since it should produce a burleyer base. Am I correct with this thought or should I go sealed?

I need new posts for my just my amplifier.

When you purchase posts are the same posts used for the amp and the speaker side? I assume yes but wanted to confirm. I never saw anything indicating any for one side or the other.

​

https://ibb.co/g7m1jkX

Hey everyone, I'm tinkering with a new design that blends features from some of my past instrument projects. Picture this: a spring reverb with pre-gain and post-EQ. It's got a PT2399 in the feedback loop and a snazzy resonant low-pass filter after the delay. I've run some simulations, and it seems like it should work in theory, but I'm wondering if there might be any glitches or improvements a seasoned designer could catch.

Check out the schematic below.

I need to cahnge the transistor part because it sends 5v constant even if no audio is playing it i dont have any extra transistor but i have different resistors, and the transistors wont operate on full power it just wastes power by making heat. would love some answers😄 (sorry for the bad writings)

Built this box for my 86 f250 and it’s got 4 skar vr-12s on a rp2000 I had a 3cuft sealed box before and could get a 139.2 at like 60hz which is to high of hz for me, so I built a bigger box and put a 3 inch aero port in it, its like 13 inches long the box interior dimensions are 60x25x7.8 which is 6.5 cuft+ and it does a lot worse than the sealed but it also vibrates a lot so I bet it leaks and just loses a ton of bass from that but could it really lose that much? It’s down to 136 at most.

I've been restoring an old console i got as a gift from my mom, it's an mx3282 bheringer console that had missing components and a missing psu. I replaced the old capacitors and also adapted an atx power supply to be used on it (i placed some LC filters to lower the switching noise and also some ferite beads) ,although not ideal i got it to work on line level signals but as soon as i conect a mic to any of the xlr inputs and hold the mic i get a high pitched noise on the channel.

How can i identify the causes of the noise ? is there a way to test if the problem is caused by the mic or the preamps?

This link leads to a daw recording of the noise: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UvkFuPZgR4YMC1hNqWkiXKAj1sEiadnW/view?usp=sharing

Edit: The rumble on the background of the audio is from my ac and not the console and the psu is grounded properly.

So I’m trying to bridge the gap between Dayton 12 and Sonny sscs5’s, I’m thinking I should be able to incorporate 2 8’s to fill in the gap. Xover on mains set to 80, sub set to 140 (max) and it sounds good but some drums come through the mains and they just lack ANY punch, the sound comes through but has no impact. Mains are being driven by a denon at 130 watts @6 ohms. There’s nothing inherently wrong with the setup, everything is working as intended.. I just want moar. So I’m looking for a sub amp with decent power, maybe 50 watts per channel or 100 watts on an 8 ohm load if I wire them in series, Or is it parallel? I’ll check before I wire anything up. Anyway, looking for up to 250 hz so I can integrate it where I want it. Any ideas?

There are a lot of fancy, expensive speaker feet for sale, but would something like these little felt pads, or small rubber pads, work about as well?

Hey, I'm trying to build a signal combiner to convert balanced stereo to balanced mono and I found this circuit online. I'm just wondering what the potential downsides of such a circuit might be?

https://preview.redd.it/clujkj9hvowc1.png?width=675&format=png&auto=webp&s=c53908ae23799c9a6c5a5bd1677e9783d887fb22

Looking specifically for issues 1985 - 1999 in PDF. Audio Amateur may have changed its name to "Audio Electronics" at some time.

Also see:
https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/comments/kfokal/ive_scanned_in_old_issues_of_the_audio_amateur/

Even print copies (ebay) are hard and $$ to obtain .

The www.worldradiohistory.com had the all online for a while and then the issues disappeared.

If anyone grabbed them while they were up and can share, much thx in advance!