Hi!

I'm wondering if anyone tried those little beasts in high power applications?

I'm thinking of building columns of 9x of FRS 8M per side, with producer claimed power totalling 270 watts RMS. Each have 30 W RMS and 50 watts maximum. And the second value concerns me if those speakers will even survive live signals? And possibly I need to impregnate them, Visaton offers special liquid for this.

Currently my amp can deliver 250W RMS per 8 ohms. It has built in limiter and I also have active crossover, just need to buy another amp to use it.

Additionally I want to cut bottom bandwidth with 120uF capacitors, and maybe some coil.

I bought two for tests and they play easy along my home setup with big speakers.

I have a pair of vintage Phillips 300 ohm speakers that I'm not sure what to do with. Junk or can it be made into something useful?

Just a general question and can really be interpreted the way you want it to but preferably drivers styled similarly to those in this image

I was thinking about getting a old tanker helmet and setting it up to work with my computer, but I need to figure out how to get this port CX-8650 into a aux

Any suggestions?

I'm looking place to find books

Amplifier | Receiver

I have some old stuff, and want to repair that, but need some books/manuals and I can't find but bits and pieces of them online. I'll go ahead and list the pieces here if it will help

Sansui SR-333, AU-20000, CA-2000

Phase Linear 3000, 300 (series two)

Ace Tone PS-1000 synthesizer

I know sometimes this stuff can cost me.

Hi guys! I have this pair of AKAI speakers with the rubber seal on the woofers degraded to the point of falling apart.

I'm considering if I should attempt changing the seal or just getting a replacement part for the whole woofer?

The weird thing is that I can't seem to find any reference of this pair of speakers existing to make sure I get the woofer size right. I'm wondering if it's a fake product or just a very niche variant that was only shipped here to the Nordics.

Any help is appreciated!

Hello everyone. I'm new to this thread and to audio dyi. i dont even think that my question really fits here, but i really dont know where to ask elsewhere. I have 2 monoblocks hypex nc400 and a class AB amp. i really want to use them in a biamp setup, for some kef reference 3 speakers, but the input sensitivity on hypex is extremely low, and everything is unbalanced. i cannot add some extra volume only on preout exists, so is there any way to increase it directly on hypex? some jumper settings ? i noticed that some ncx 500 diy kits have this option. Many thanks

Hey guys Bumpboxx freestyle vs3 is the patient. Replacing oem 10" subs with skar ix10 10" subs (checked power rating amd we should be ok) Replacing horns with skar tx525 5-1/4 mid-tweets. Again power rating should work

-first issue is left side speakers don't work. Checked wiring on current board, getting no read. -i wired in all 4 speakers into the working speaker port, sounds amazing but when I push high volume it cuts out.
-i have zero expertise in this but am capable. To me this seems that the amp is cooked. Willing to buy something with more ass to it. If anyone has any advice I'm all ears

I'm building a dorm-room stereo for a family member using some MarkAudio CHN-50 drivers (rated 7W nominal at 4ohms). I'd love to find an amp board that maxes out at 20W so they don't blow the speakers.

Most I stumble on are 50W rated and I don't think that's wise for this application. Ideally this would:

• be <$10
• have a program to set DSP filters (so I can pre-tune it)
• have an aux input
• have bluetooth 5
• have a volume potentiometer

Hit me with your suggestions!

A week ago I found on eBay a LM3886 kit. As the seller claims really low THD I got really interested.

So I ordered it and it came 3 days later. The seller also offers a "PCB version only", but I decided to try the ready one.

As other composite amps that I have this one also needs +/-15.0V for the op amp. The eBay seller offers a such PSU for a reasonable price so I got it as well.

I put up a setup and made some initial measurements. Picture 1 and 2.

Output power around 65W@8 Ohms PSU -> +/-34.0V. Picture 3

Output DC (input shorted) - 1.1mV - not bad at all. Hooked to a speaker it is dead silent.

The composite is stable and does not show any signs of oscillation though it lacks a Zobel network.

I tried to measure the THD of the kit using my Scarlett 2i2 (4th gen) which which itself has very low THD -106dB (0.0005%). Picture 4

The measurement of the THD of the kit (1W@8 Ohms) showed almost the same THD plot as Scarlett 2i2 THD plot, which means that the kit has THD much lower than 0.0005% Picture 5. Sounds very promising 🙂

So to finish the job I need to improve my measuring setup, probably using a suitable notch filter and low distortion 1kHz oscillator .

Any suggestions are very welcome.

https://preview.redd.it/0937v43fp96e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3399ab7d508bf61114f510b66bdeca0502e8b52a

https://preview.redd.it/f726y3yjp96e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f1ce503a7a409d7068305c0788ac0306462a1e7

https://preview.redd.it/ivb39v3mp96e1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cbdcb66d1b6b8c74de4432575bd91b6bd4be64ad

https://preview.redd.it/lh3maednp96e1.jpg?width=949&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f402ef58cca8fc1bfd9a90b1de786aff901f23a4

https://preview.redd.it/1cvpyquop96e1.jpg?width=949&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=07c9f337ca6e787d97112429e037641a87b0eb4e

Iems drivers, 10mm + electrostatic tweeter

i see no low pass filter on the 10mm driver, i guess is an high le bass focused but still, there is cone break up

This could be good if the dd was high impedance and had a Lp filter

When using and amplifier that can take multiple voltage (12v-36v) is the benefit of running higher voltage just to get more volume? Or would running the amp with more voltage give you more headroom and a cleaner sound at the same volume level?

TIA

Good day audiophile family 😊

I am on the look out to buy a budget Dac to connect to my home made assembled hi fi audio system. My requirement is to play using Apple Music from my iPhone via a wired connection to the Dac . Please suggest Dac that support usb input and iPhone audio formats to avoid compatibility issues . I have a list in my hand which includes the dragonfly red and the ifo hip Dac 3.

1. But my concern is if this is ok for a home use as it is a portable one or should we go for a desktop Dac as I intend to provide dacs output into my amp .

2. Will a portable Dac perform as good as a desktop da ? Are there any differences in terms of how we connect them- headphone and hifi system

Hey Yall,

SO, I have a "thousand watt" (it's kinda sketchy so who knows) amp, with two zones, two speakers each, so 4 powered outputs total, plus a sub-out coax. I'm planning to use that to drive 4 total speakers, two Peavy 115hs and two Create PS1500s.

I have two questions, one is about wiring and one is about advice.

The first is related to wiring. The Crate speakers have a "low out" connection on the back, which I'm assuming is a passthrough. If it is, is there any advantage to running either both crates on one line or a create and a peavy together, other than simplifying the wiring? Would it be easier or harder on the amp? Louder? Quieter?

I can't seem to find any information at all on the crates, so I don't know if it's got some kind of crossover going on, although I guess I could pull it apart to check. "Low" here could mean the lower driver, or low tone? I'm not sure there

The next question is regarding a sub. I have a decent deal on a 10" powered sub that can do roughly 125 db for about $100, and a better deal on a noname $40 passive 18" sub with basically no details other than it's "good at 350 wats."

Given the wiring above, which would I be better off with? I'm assuming I'd need a crossover of some variety for the sub to use it with the low out from a crate or something, or do a standalone amp from the sub out connection on the main amp, but doing basically anything aside from plugging it straight into the crate speaker puts it in powered, modern sub pricing territory.

https://preview.redd.it/cv4hlaf7k36e1.png?width=1210&format=png&auto=webp&s=b3664541eaff531321b702557e741f11eb3bd3a8

Just need to know if I have Net 1 right

https://preview.redd.it/yu783lx9k36e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e29421edf0f5b4312fe76f82db27f30f02c40e2f

Hello all,

I'm looking for some easy to set up and reliable speaker kits on the internet.

I know there are a lot of this kits on sites such as aliexpress, but I was wondering if any of you had on or more links in mind?

I would like the kits to include a battery (if possible regarding shipping policies) and a SD card reader.

I am no audio DIY specialist, so ease to set up is a must, also the output and overall quality of speakers should be kept in mind.

These are intended to be installed inside a special 3D printed enclosure, and to play sound for 10-30 minutes; outside in urban areas.

This is part of my end of year project as a product designer.

this amp loops audio ground to amplifier voltage in and killed the receiver

Recently purchased both. Keeping one. Which one should I return and why?

Hi guys I'm planning to build speakers with a classic design, something similar to the JBL L100. My question is, do you know of any good 12-inch drivers with a cone structure like the ones in the aforementioned JBL speakers? I've checked pretty much all the speaker shops in my country (Poland) and haven't found anything that suits me, so I'm considering ordering something from abroad. It would be great if they had an impedance of 8 ohms.

I’ve been using ZK1001 amps and can link them via TWS across diffferent seller/brands of same style amp successfully.

Just tried a different type, a stereo amp with TWS, and can’t seem to get these to link with the ZK’s. I can link them to themselves, but not to other amps with TWS.

Is the TWS feature universal or somewhat specific to manufacturers or chips?