I own a 2017 2SS and a day or two a check engine light came on and has not disappeared. Some background information. The night before the check light came on and was flashing but upon restarting the car it went away. This has happened several times over the last couple of months but now it's on and a steady light. The car runs well, throws all the gears fine, and the gauges read out normally. Start-up is a tad rougher than normal but nothing crazy. car has 50,000 miles but I bought it as a second owner at 36k so I don't know if the spark plugs or batteries have ever been replaced.

Anyone know what cold air intake would work best with a 112mm throttle body?

I have had this car for about two years and replaced the key fob 3x now as they just suddenly stop working..took to dealership and they have no idea on what the issue is but to offer a new key for $800 every time..Seems to be an issue with the receiver/module in the car itself but sounds like this cannot be repaired. The mobile app is the only way I can get into the car and I have to put the keys in the cup holder for it to start every time. Any advice is much appreciated

I've noticed that despite my SS having NPP, I always leave it in track mode, and even then it's a bit quiet for my taste. So I'm looking for an aftermarket exhaust that makes a smooth, sporty sound that's louder than stock. I've noticed a lot of the straight-piped exhaust systems are kind of choppy, and while some may enjoy the 60s muscle car sound, it just reminds me of a truck and isn't what I'm going for.

I saw solo performance has an axle back with an integrated x-pipe, which might be the answer to that smooth sporty sound I'm looking for, but I couldn't find many clips online. Does anyone have experience with this system?

Unfortunately, I can't mess with the cats or do any performance mods due to warranty and state inspection, which is why my search is limited to axle backs.

I ran codes on my 16 SS and it pulled the map and maf sensors, I replaced those, it’s still idling weird, like the engine will shift for a split second towards the driver side, it does this about every minute maybe minute and a half, and you can hear it in the exhaust, it will be running fine and then it will cut out for a split second, like it has a misfire, I really don’t want to take it to the Chevy dealer but if it get worse I’ll have to, I replaced the spark plugs a few weeks ago thinking that would fix it, I might need coil packs, idk. Let me know if any of y’all have experience anything like this with ur camaro.

Hey guys, This is my 2012 Chevy Camaro 1LS base coupe that I brought last year from a mom and pop lot (probably won't do that again.)

The car itself is still imo, in pretty good shape overall. However, I've learned after uncovering a bunch of hidden issues that the previous owner had oversized wheels on it and drove it hard.

When I got it, it ran rough and had a terrible vibration. The factory steel wheels (Two which were bent) the tires were mismatched, there's broken front passenger strut (that I haven't replaced yet,) the brakes were terrible, Parking break didn't hold. Front end tie rods are a little sloppy (haven't replaced them yet either..) It was rough.

Over the year I've cleaned it up really well and did what I could affford but I've been struggling to keep +cash flow coming in. Therefore I've been saving up to put what work I can into it.

So far, I replaced the bent wheels with replacement OEM steelies. installed power stop breaks all the way around, installed "middle of the road" wheel bearings, and Of course I did a tune up.

The car feels a little bit better, but when I accelerate past 45+ mph, the cars consistent vibration shows up. It's like it's a static, consistent rumbling, vibration, bassy sensation That doesn't change with speed.

Now, I noticed that my rear CV joints look okay but I haven't got a chance to look at the carrier bearing or anything in the drive shaft, I don't know anything about those.

I also have crappy tires and poo wheels, But If those are the issues, that doesn't make any sense to me why the vibration doesn't change with speed fluctuation. The car is a six-speed stick btw, with the 3.6 LFX.

What would you guys recommend? Freaking married to this thing for the next 4 years 😒🤔

Had to pull out of garage to safely put plow on truck , she never seen so much snow but looks good in snow

2013 1ss rs

Seen a couple posts archived here showing a loose or spongy shifter that moves side to side with no return. Since it's archived I couldn't comment. It's a known problem for i4 and V6 models on gen6.

You can get replacement bushings at fullmetalbushing.com

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Hi all,

I bought the Corsa npp system for my ZL1 but I’m having issues connecting it to my AWE x-pipe. I originally had a full AWE system but removed the axle back portion. The Corsa pipe has a 2 7/8” OD and 2 3/4 ID. The AWE pipe has a 3” OD and 2 7/8 ID. What’s the best way to connect the two pipes?

I was doing a Little burn out and afterwards a man told me to be careful doing that to much because the rear end is pretty much made out of glass. How true is that? It's a 2011 ls v6

I realize that in person dyno tunes offer the best results, but spending $600+ just to tune for long tubes on a 6th gen seems too much. My car is bone stock but I might add headers, what are the cheapest tuning options that I can do to get rid of the CEL and to optimize A/F ratio?

I’m looking to put some lightweight drag brakes on my 2010 ss but so far every kit I’ve found eliminates the e brake. This isn’t a dedicated drag car and I still street drive it, and it’s a manual so I need some sort of e brake. Does anyone know of a kit that retains the e brake, or if there’s a kit to add a different e brake to one of those setups?