I'm considering picking up one of these bundles for travel, because they are in about the same price range (2200 - 2300 Euros). I already did some research and watched a bunch of reviews, but I'm still not that sure.

I usually prefer to use JPEG out-of-camera and tend to be lazy with editing my photos on the PC. Weather sealing, IBIS are both pretty important to me, AF should be good enough for me on both bodies.

From what I hear people generally prefer Fujifilm for their ooc JPEGs, but I'm not sure how good Sony has caught up with the 6700 in that department.
I think the film simulations on the X-T5 are pretty nice.

The Sony E 16-55mm seems to be a considerably sharper from f/2.8 than the Fuji 16-80mm and it's also faster. It lacks OSS, but that's not a problem for me in that focal range, especially with IBIS. A comparable lens would be the Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f/2.8 which is heavier, a bit dated and also it doesn't come bundled with the X-T5, so it would mean a significant markup.

What's also somewhat important to me is the telezoom, in my pricerange would be the Sony E 70-350mm f/4.5-6.3 and the Fujifilm XF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6.
Dustin Abbott did a comparison of these two lenses, and it seems, that the Sony is a tack sharper (especially fully zoomed in) and the AF seems to be a bit better. The Fuji on the other hand seems to have slightly better bokeh and is faster.
In general those two seem to be much closer than the standard zoom lenses.

Body-wise the X-T5 seems to be more my thing. Judging by the lenses Sony seems to be a bit ahead.

So which one would you get?

I have a chance to buy a used Canon 5d mark ii for $300. It comes with two batteries, charger, cd card, and converter. I know the person and they say it’s in fantastic condition, and was recently furnished. This would be my first ever camera. Is this a decent entry level camera?

This is my recently acquired nikon 70-210 F4 you can see this while looking through the lens, it looks like it’s infront of the aperture (looking from the back of the lens) it doesn’t rotate when the focus is changed and doesn’t move when the zoom is changed, any ideas what it might be?

I need a camera to study fluid movements at home.
I've already tried a GoPro 12 and with 240FPS + slowdown in the video editor the result wasn't bad.
I've also tested the Sony ZV1.
I've seen that some smartphones also have this function, but I don't know if they have good quality...
I'm looking for something in the 1000FPS range for video recording, under 500$ (used)
Can you recommend devices that record video at these speeds?

My difficulty is not in using the devices but in knowing which devices have this function because I don't follow the camera market.

I am a total beginner so would prefer something easy to use but with the potential to do some tweaks to get a better shot. Thank you in advance.

Price limit ~£300

I have a family session coming up with all adults:

• 4 siblings (ages 34-40)
• and their grandparents (65 and 85)

I like to do a mix of “posed” shots and candids. With the candids I like to prompt people, which is easy when it’s parents with their child or a couple interacting. But I’m at a loss with this group.

Any suggestions on the kind of shots you would get and what prompts you would use to get genuine emotion?

Thanks all!

Hello all,

I am currently using a Sony A7III and want to set it up for travel.

The scenarios I would imagine myself using would be very general in a sense of taking photos of architecture, scenes, and then people on occasion as I see them while walking around.

I current have my AF mode to AF-A and Area to Lock-On AF expandable point. This is activated using my AF-ON button. My thinking is if I am taking a picture of a building or something not moving, I can adjust my focus point, BBAF, and take a picture. I would also want to use this for moving objects by using my focus point to select a moving subject and track it.

I have my AEL button mapped to Eye AF as if there is a human subject I want to take a picture of, I would like to focus on their eyes.

I'm wondering if this is an acceptable setup as is for these type of moments or if there is a better way to do this?

Thanks!

Hey y’all! I’m an aspiring sports photographer who doesn’t have too much experience shooting at night. I have the opportunity to shoot a game at Fenway that happens to start at 7 (much later than I’m used to). My primary lens for baseball is a Sony 200-600 f5.6-6.3 (I love the ability to get clean outfield action) and I’m hoping to be able to use it for this game. If anyone knows anything about professional baseball stadium lighting, is it worth it to bring the 200-600 or should I just stick to a 70-200 f2.8 for this game? Additionally, does anyone have tips for shooting at night? Thanks!

Correction: *Exposure mode keeps jumping around (Not focus mode)*

Anyone else encountering this problem?

Currently I am using two Sony A9s (gen1). One day, one of them starts constantly having this issue where it would not stay in Manual focus. It may randomly jump to Shutter or Aperture priority, and back to Manual, then jump again. It gets more frequent, throughout a shoot. It was such a headache, I decided to replace it with another one. It’s been over a year since getting the second a9, and I’m getting the same problem as well!

Now both a9s are having the issues of not staying in manual. Usually if I turn the dial to anything and back, it may temporarily resolve the issue before suddenly jumping modes again. Is there a fix for this and is this a common problem with the first gen a9?

I’ve come from the A7iii, A7ii, and A6000 and have never encountered anything like this before.

I have a question to pose. Would it be beneficial in any way to develop a step zoom lens? For example, instead of a 24-70 zoom, the lens could be "clicked" to specifically the 24,28,35,50,70mm focal lengths. Could this idea help at all in terms of weight, size, and/or quality in a meaningful way?

I bought a Sony dsc f707 for infrared photography (and because I really like the image quality, plus it was 10$), and wanted to know if shooting infrared without any filters would blow out the sensor, as they are more sensitive to infrared.

I would like to shoot full spectrum and only in infrared so I guess I’ll be getting an Infrared filter regardless, but don’t want to blow out the sensor and damage it by shooting infrared in the daytime. Would I need a ND filter to reduce the intensity of the light during the day regardless of if I have the IR pass filter?

Info on this on the internet is a little spotty, as some people use both ND and IR pass filters to shoot IR with this camera, but I’m using the magnet method so I will have control over the exposure of my pics. Only video I’ve found on the topic the guy uses a 720 nm and 850 nm filter to only get those wavelengths but doesn’t mention a ND filter.

Any help or thoughts are appreciated

I have a Canon EOS 7D, this error is only showing when using my Wide Angle Lens, I have already cleaned the Lens Contacts. My Prime lens and Zoom lens work fine. I have tried using Google to find a fix but it only showing me solutions to clean the sensor. Is there anything else I can try or do I just need to get a new Lens? Any help is greatly appreciated, still new at this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C5vpjrSLiX5/

There is clearly significant photoshop work in the image, but I am wondering if there a way to achieve that neat cross-hatch type of flaring on the stadium lights using a lens or filter or something? Or was that effect just added in photoshop/post? And if so, how?

I honestly don’t know anything about cameras at all.

I’ve never had a real camera before, but I am constantly taking pictures of scenery, animals, plants, fungi, etc. Today I was sitting by a pond and saw a pair of ducks that were just so unique and pretty. My iPhone camera was not doing what I needed it to do. I mainly take photos of mushrooms and other fungi I find on hikes, but I also love to take photos of wild animals & birds just living their little lives. My iPhone has gotten me some awesome photos, but it’s really just not cutting it anymore!

I would like to spend less than $500. I’m broke and I also don’t fully trust myself to keep up with photography as a hobby (I have ADHD, so I’ve purchased many things because I thought they’d help me pursue my passions… they’re all in a box in storage now). I don’t know if there is a good option for around $200, but that would be most ideal. I know I also need to look into lenses, but how do I know which ones I’d need? I take up close photos of mushrooms, but I also like to capture entire landscapes.

Additionally, how would I go about making money from nature photography once I know what I’m doing?

Keen to try an alternative to wifi-app transfers for SD card to phone (or PC). Does it matter whether I get a USB 2.0 speed SD card reader, versus a 3.0 or 3.1/3.2 Gen2? ie is there an advantage for a reader that's rated for 5/10/20 Gbps vs one rated for the slower 480Mbps?

I know one megabyte per second (MBps) is equal to 8 megabits (Mbps) eg a UHS-1 card of 104MB/s can transfer theoretically at 832 Mbps. I assume this means USB 2.0 is too slow and anything rated 5GBps will easily get the fastest possible transfer speeds to my phone. But keen to know real world experiences, esp if you've tried both USB 2.0 and USB3.0 or faster!

hi guys! so i really want an alternative to the canon g7x ii and it’s very expensive and sold out everywhere so… these are my options to get

canon sx740hs sony rx100 mark 3 and the panasonic lumix zs100

which one do you recommend more to get that canon g7x like pictures and also do you guys know any other alternatives?

Like:

What was your first camera, and which one would you have preferred to buy? What were the mistakes you made that took the longest to correct? What did you invest in initially, and then realized could have been different?

I have a few 82mm freewell filters from their m2 series. I also bought a step-up ring from freewell to use on a lens with a 77mm thread. The freewell step up ring magnet is very weak and doesn't secure the filter well. I'm wondering if I have to use the freewell step up ring or can I use any magnetic step up ring? Thanks