When I heard about this comet I was super excited as a/c to report it would be significantly bright and I had missed my chance with comet Leonard and ZTF in previous years. But due to persistent bad weather I was convinced that this year would be no exception and the comet was also getting dimmed day by day. Just when I almost gave up, I finally got a clear sky in the evening of October 21 and managed to capture a series of shots. However, thanks to light pollution, it wasn't naked eye visible.

Exif : f/2.5, iso 200, 6s × 53 50 mm

Canon EOS 1300D

Takahashi FSQ-85EDX AM5 w/ ASIAIR Mount Processed in Siril/PixInsight/Photoshop 30 second subs, ISO 400

I have a Short qurstion which i never really found an answer... Does It make a difference If i get 5 hours of light with 5second shots or 3 Minute shots? Pleased somebody clarify :)

Shot on Nikon D5600 (Stock camera,not modified)

Youngono 50mm lens

Untracked 380 shots

2 second exposure time per shot iso 3200, F2.5

Bortle 2 on a resort in Maldives

This my first attempt on Antares Rho Ophiuchi nebula complex

Stacked through deep sky stacker, edited through Adobe Photoshop and camera raw Graxpert used for gradient removal and denoising Used starnet to remove star, add them back Used adobe Lightroom to enhance contrast and colours

Hello everyone,

I put together a resource page on my website and wanted to see if I was missing anything important. You can find it here - Resource Page.

thanks.

I'm just a novice and I do have a telescope. Any tips how to integrate my basic telescope with iphone 12 promax so I can take some good moon shots?

Just used a long exposure ( 12 min in RAW )on the s24 ultra, with a basic tripod.

Unsure on what my friend used to edit the photo.

The two brothers Castor and Pollux perfectly aligned with Mars 20 x 6 sec lights, no DOF, no tracking EOS 700D + kit Lens 18-55mm Siril for stacking

Hello everyone,

I would like to understand what is best for me to buy to start with astrophotography, I have already opened discussions in the past about the possibility of buying material for astrophotography, however, not having a car in Rome I have never been able to move too much from the city and the idea of ​​starting has always been postponed. I have a modest equipment in terms of cameras but I see that high-end cameras are not needed to do good astrophotography, in the future I could buy a dedicated reflex without a filter on the CMOS sensor.

I have some questions to ask you

1. what are the cheapest astro trackers to buy in addition to the model I have listed below, if there are valid alternatives?

I know this model "Star Adventurer GTI": https://www.astroshop.it/supporti-per-fotocamere/skywatcher-montatura-star-adventurer-gti-wi-fi-goto/p,75964?utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=75964&utm_campaign=2410&utm_source=froogle-it&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsoe5BhDiARIsAOXVoUs-oq0YCPowqELWfGRYI-JzyAzwGohHc1dHS1iK3BacCIqARSWQ8KUaArxZEALw_wcB&utm_content

I'm also evaluating mini trackers like these, for example the lx3 essential mount

https://www.omegon.eu/it/supporti-per-fotocamere/omegon-montatura-minitrack-lx3-essentials/p,70825

on a photographic level I would like to try to photograph galaxies as well as the Milky Way and the sky in general, I imagine that with a mini tracker it will only be possible to photograph them without being able to use too long focal lengths, I have several lenses including the 55-250mm Canon telephoto.

2. Maybe at 100mm it would still be possible to photograph some galaxies or up to what focal length can you go with a mini tracker and how many seconds of exposure?

3. while instead you confirm that the equatorial eq3 mount that I see below is not suitable for astrophotography as it is also because it does not have motors?

https://www.astroshop.it/equatoriale-senza-goto/skywatcher-montatura-eq3-2/p,16080?utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=16080&utm_campaign=2410&utm_source=froogle-it&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsoe5BhDiARIsAOXVoUtSWTVbi3IUc1GP3WyB5G7HoFZTlHOoqctAfX8z5UzEC1-3xCE-3moaAgrpEALw_wcB&utm_content

4)the eq3 has a maximum load capacity of 5kg as well as the star tracker and the motorized version has about the same price, so perhaps the Star Adventurer GTI star tracker remains a better choice than the eq3 mount why less bulky?

https://www.astroshop.it/equatoriale-con-goto/skywatcher-montatura-eq3-pro-synscan-goto/p,11663?utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=11663&utm_campaign=2410&utm_source=froogle-it&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsoe5BhDiARIsAOXVoUvp5Q0lTRWBSmB_53CG1TkR_WXUtJanciq_6GkD4_-Oxk1UWr0QXmYaAmDjEALw_wcB&utm_content

I have to choose a photographic tripod, something that I would like to use for astrophotography and for photography in general, maybe if I go on a mountain excursion I would like to take it with me, so also transportable

the models that were recommended to me were the Manfrotto 190 series and 055, but with my budget I could only buy them used because new they cost around €250 and used they can be found for around €100

with similar specifications I found this:

https://www.kentfaith.it/KF09.105_kf-concept-70-177cm-treppiede-per-fotocamera-in-alluminio-treppiede-per-fotocamera-portatile-in-alluminio-per-viaggi-e-lavoro-macrofotografia-m1-bh-35l-vecchio-modello-sp4022m3

it weighs 1789g and seems to be very heavy as well as the Manfrotto 190 series, the brand seems to be quite reliable in terms of quality.

5. can this tripod be put on an astro tracker like this?

https://www.skywatcher.it/Skywatcher/astronomia/montature/star-adventurer/

This time I’m posting an image of The Fireworks Galaxy, NGC 6946. This face on spiral galaxy is calculated to be ten million light years away, and forty thousand light years wide. At least according to Sky Safari.

The data was captured over four nights in 2020. The LRGB was collected on 12, 13 and19 August, the Ha on 31 October. The totals are: Eight 900 second Ha Twenty-seven 600 second Luminance Nine 600 second Red Seven 600 second Green Five 600 second Blue All with appropriate Master Bias, darks and flats. The Master Integrations were integrated into a SuperLuminance yielding a Luminance integration time of a nice round, 10 hours, my longest yet. This is also the first time I managed to capture narrow band data and have enough of a complete data set’ with calibration frames, to integrate it all. In fact this is the first time I’ve processed this 4 year old data because I thought the color subframe imbalance was too much to work with. Apparently I was not correct.

The equipment I used was: TEC 140 APO ED QSI 683 WSG 8 Astrodon Type 2 31mm unmounted filters in QSI 683 intrinsic filter wheel. Astro-Physics/Baader Planetarium Vario Finder Scope and mounting system for Autoguide scope. Starlight Xpress Lodestar Autoguider camera. All carried on a Deep Space Products Hypertuned Celestron CGE Pro (my autoguiding graphs were beautiful).

Capture was controlled with Sequence Generator Pro, and autoguiding controlled perfectly by PHD2 Autoguiding. All processing done in PixInsight. I started with WBPP and went from there. Honestly I’m really just getting almost competent with PixInsight these days, so I spend so much time doing and redoing things that I can’t really tell you what I did. I do use Blur, Star and Noise Xterminators, as well as a whole lot of Seti Astro Scripts. I really depend on SETI Astro FindBackground and ADBE. I’ve used DBE with PixInsight since I started with it and ADBE gets the same result quicker and easier.

There’s a lot I like about this result, and a lot I don’t. I definitely over sharpened the stars (you can see it in the little guys) and I left some tidal tails on the table trying to tame a too red background. I’ve been watching Adam Block’s PixInsight Fundamentals for a while and they’ve pretty helpful in learning this craft. I realized in mid stream that I had no idea of how to integrate the Ha data. I posted on the Adam Block Forum and found out after the fact that there are more elegant ways to do that blending than what I used. I’m certainly learning, and the original data is uncorrupted.

All in all I’m about as happy with it as a perfectionist can be. Thanks for looking. After I post this I’m going to have a look on the 60 inch in the living room.

I posted this text before with a bad link. One more try then.

150 frames 30s ISO 400 Takahashi FSQ-85EDX Nikon D750 H-alpha modified ZWO AM5 / ASIAIR Mount Optolong L-Pro Filter

Still learning the particulars of stacking and editing using parabolic curves in Photoshop. Built my own flat and subtracted in Photoshop. Light pollution here is horrendous.

R8+RF28mm STM pancake ISO 25600 13 sec exposure (x12) f/3.2

Stacked using Sequator and post processed in Lightroom

Hey all, first post. Found myself at Great Sand Dunes National Park last week and am trying to get back into wide field astro. Looking forward to critique and tips/tricks for better foreground. Sadly I didn't have a light source, it was a Bortle 2 area and no tripod...just a camera laying on a hat on top of my day pack.

Looking forward to mingling.

ZWO ASI533MC Pro. Askar 65PHQ. SVBONY SV220 Ha-OIII dual narrowband filter. 403 x 30s subs for a total integration just shy of 3.5 hrs, taken over 3 nights from Bortle 7 skies. Calibrated and stacked in Sirilic. StarNet++ star removal and generalized hyperbolic stretch in Siril. Recombined starless with stars, final saturation, and stretch in Photoshop. GraXpert AI Denoise. Cropped.

ZWO ASI533MC Pro. Askar 65PHQ. SVBONY SV220 Ha-OIII dual narrowband filter. 1721 x 30s subs for a total integration of about 14.5 hrs, taken over 4 nights from Bortle 7 skies. Calibrated and stacked in Deep Sky Stacker. Channel separated in Photoshop. StarNet++ star removal and generalized hyperbolic stretch in Siril. Recombined starless with stars, final saturation, and stretch in Photoshop. GraXpert AI Denoise. Cropped.

First attempt to photograph the Andromeda galaxy went quite well I think

Just got the AM5 I’ve been waiting a few months for, and as luck would have it I had a pretty clear night right away. Didn’t have long to shoot M42 before it went behind the trees but I got several 3 minute exposures. No more than 10 useable.

ASI2600MC and ASIAir Plus, stacked with ZWO’s DeepStack software. Only lights and darks, I took flats but didn’t realize the software requires bias frames to use flats at all so they’re not used.

I feel like the center is overexposed, but the rest of the image looks just about right. Any tips are welcome before I try again. I was going to bring exposures down to 120 seconds or less on my next try to see how it does, but some pointers to get me closer to success more quickly would be much appreciated.