I shoot a lot of portraits for my job and my technique has come a long way over the past couple of years. I am getting pretty happy with my current lighting, posing, and composition skills but am still improving on my post processing workflow.

One thing that I have been trying to figure out lately is how to add that final texture to an image that a few of my favorite portrait photographers are able to do. I could be wrong, but after staring at images for hours and hours, I think this is mostly coming from skin retouching of some sort, but I can't quite figure it out. You can see this in the work of Bill Wadman, Matt Carr, and Dan Winters amongst others. Here are a few examples:

Wadman: https://www.billwadman.com/?itemId=wdlvz2g3qmuqvrolsgmfk6x6ksqe8z

https://www.billwadman.com/?itemId=y37akhjg5bp682f5lwu5cl6yyj28zd

https://www.billwadman.com/?itemId=gnnyet1beoaxbfbui12x18hf868j2k

https://www.billwadman.com/?itemId=i9o5jcv4niagu0bh4vb4y09m8nyuvm

https://www.billwadman.com/studio?itemId=wi92d9v3hivaztr3gi8tho07l7xl88

Here is an example of a recent portrait I shot that I believe to be missing that "feel": https://imgur.com/a/qk5NhOe

The closest I have come to replicating what I am looking for is by masking and blending a texture layer in photoshop....but that didn't quite do it. Any ideas? Is this just good dodging and burning?

I would like to know what you would've done in my place. I wanted a dreamy optimistic bright look to inspire a "team work" vibe. I tried adding vignette to emphasize the two persons but I don't know if it's visible.

https://preview.redd.it/b6s4elhuerxc1.jpg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1dd9e953f50eba087279e71f5369f25b56c5d56

After

https://preview.redd.it/7eg1j6ixerxc1.jpg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=284defe3e47cf214c5563236ed2ae12cfa7f68b2

Before

Hi, I'm currently exploring the possibilities of iPhone photography. It seems to me that everything is in good focus and the ground is as sharp as possible? What do you think? The photo is further edited to enhance the sharpness/focus because it's not possible to focus everything (at least most of the details) at such a distance with the iPhone camera hardware I guess?! If anyone wants to shed more light on the topic, please feel free to share in the comments. You can be sure that it will be much appreciated. ^^ And yeah, I know - the composition is not one of the best. I'm learning. Sometimes I'm afraid to ask stupid questions, but if I don't, I won't improve or learn. Thanks!

• AFTER

https://preview.redd.it/hl8x2i5j4qxc1.jpg?width=2884&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c658ed0e21a8270abb17bb9cb7b97cf4f72871cc

• BEFORE

https://preview.redd.it/trb9mhhl4qxc1.jpg?width=2884&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eaa08fade5779cbadf70e71ce475e943ebf95103

Opted for slightly less dim versus higher exposures personally a fan of some “darker” photos. Your preference?

Having some serious moire patterns going on in my DJI Mini 4 Pro footage and not sure how to fix it without doing it in post.

My sharpness setting is at 0 but I feel that lowering it more may make my footage look out of focus, anyone got a fix?

​

https://reddit.com/link/1cgey3n/video/p7lquothcixc1/player

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Hey! I am going mad about a problem in Photoshop since I've bought a Mac Studio M2.

There is a slight/big difference, depending on the photograph, between Camera RAW and Photoshop. The image in ACR is well saturated, has smooth tones and deep blacks. But when I open it up in PS as object/smart object or copy, it loses saturation and the blacks get lifted resulting in grayish shadow tones.

Is this normal? Or what could it be? As a professional photographer it is super important to me that I have a consistent and reliable workflow and this problem is starting to driving me crazy!

What I tried so far:

Reset Mac
Reset and reinstalled multiple version of Photoshop
Tested it on a sRGB, Display P3 and Adobe RGB screen
Made sure everything is in Adobe RGB
Flicked all the options in Photoshop, like disabling GPU or using Apple CMM
Calibrated the screens with a Spyder 5Express, Spyder X Pro and a Calibrite Display SL
Tried different image formats and raws from different cameras

Left = PS and Right = ACR

I am currently continuing to develop special film emulations, the aim of which, unlike most Lightroom presets, is to really fulfill all the characteristics of the respective films in order to create the most realistic look possible, which stands out from Fuji film simulation/Lightroom presets etc.. In this case there are 3 films: Silver Salt 500T, Cinestill 400D which is based on Silver Salt with some modifications, since both films are in turn their own versions of Kodak Vision3 and therefore have a similar basis. And last but not least the Kodak Gold 200.

BEFORE

Cinestill 400D

Kodak Gold 200

Silbersalz 500T

​

And the second one with the same emulated films:

​

Before

Cinestill 400D

Kodak Gold 200

Silbersalz 500T

Hi there,

I'm an Olympus shooter and I have the 8mm f1.8 fisheye. I want to de-fish some of my images, but I'm struggling with creating a repeatable workflow.

Normally I do my cropping and straightening first, and this is when it made sense for me to de-fish - But after I de-fish, I am unable to recover blown highlights - It's like the de-fishing is creating a lossy copy.

I have tried using OM Workspace and saving as 16-bit lossless TIFF, as well as using the DxO OpticsPro plugin for Apple Photos, and the lens correction settings in Lightroom - but same issue each time.

Any idea what might be happening?