I’ve come across some rolls of tri-x 400 expiring in 1983. I have enough to use a roll or two purely for testing. How would you recommend developing film that is this expired?

Was thinking I would do a test roll shooting the same scene from iso 400 down to 12 or something. Advice on that would be helpful as well.

Hello! I am working on a project for my photography class. I am creating a presentation on different supplies and tips to help people get their perfect shot! I use a Canon AE-1 with black and white film for reference. If you have any tips you'd like to share it would be much appreciated!

Just came into possession of these and I'm used to plastic paterson reels, been playing around trying to figure it out and can't prevent this from happening no matter how little tension I use

Hello! It is often said that the autofocus of the Sony RX1 is slow and that it is one of its weak points. I am interested in knowing how slow (or fast) it is compared to the autofocus of analog cameras such as Nikon F4, Ricoh GR1, Contax or any other analog camera from the 90s and early 00s with autofocus. Thank you and best regards

Pretty self explanatory, I don’t have an enlarger yet and want to make some contact prints with 4x5. I have all the things necessary but wonder if my prints will be weird using incandescent or led room lights instead of a direct downward light. Any insight? If there isn’t, i’ll post results for future referencing to others.

Haaay, It's me. I did my first development and I started again and again! I'm pretty proud and exciting.

But I got nothing to scan them, so I have to move them to someone who can (unless I buy one, but that's a different story).

So my questions are :

- Should I cut the negatif strip? In how many pictures?

- In what kind of paper/document should I carry them, I've got nothing pro and cannot buy them until I move (I've to leave the place I'm now).

Please, give me your good technic, the ones the "pro" hates.

Cheers

Has anyone had experience processing black and white film as a positive? Besides well known films as Adox Scala, FPP super positive, etc I'm aware it can be done with Ilford's FP4, Delta 100 and Pan F Plus but I only have 3 rolls of Double X at hand, a quick google search show some resources to do it. Any experience in this will be very appreciated.

I mainly use cinestill cs-41, cinestill ecn-2, and xtol. A small yellow stain

I just did my first b/w development at home and think it turned out without any real problems from development process.

But I f-ed up and didn't get any photo flo. And from what i understand - i might get problems with water streaks now.

So my question: what is preventing me from buying photo flo and just dunk the roll into it at a later stage? is there something occuring in the drying process that will "close" the surface of the film such that photo flo will have no effect?

Ortho+ in DDX. Developed as normal but chemicals were at 24C so I cut developing time as per.

Camera is definitely not the problem. Trying to figure out if it’s a problem with my chemicals.

DDX was opened a month ago. Stop and fixer were and diluted about 6 months ago if this helps

So I bought a bulk loader with expired film in it, shot some of it and developed it. After developing I noticed there was a bar along the length of the film. I inspected a length of film on the emulsion side and this is what it looked like. Anybody know what happened to this?

Just curious on what might’ve gone wrong while developing my film? All my temp was at what it was supposed to be at and the time was correct

I met someone who has some large sheets of Kodak color paper available. This ektacolor Supra II seems to be 25-30 years old, not freezer stored. Is there any chance it’s still good? The cibachrome is no longer supported, right?

Ilford RC Gloss | split grade print

I’ve had no issue with my setup until this print tonight.

I repeated the same result a few times.

It looks underexposed, but that makes no sense considering the exposure I was doing (2 second increments at f11). The colours are also faded and the image is blotchy.

I’m printing in a drum, with a new batch of developer, fix and stabiliser (I mix 500ml at a time) I just made tonight.

The chemicals been opened for about six weeks.

What’s the likely problem here?

Thanks!

I'm experimenting with photograms and I just saw adam fuss work. Till now I could just make black n white photograms but I'd like to add some colors. Is there a way to do that!?

i'm not looking to do cynotypes or any other types of tinted photograms, i'd like to do photo grams with actual color.

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https://preview.redd.it/ym9nbvj7l8yd1.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8667fb0b16000b6839287fc9b93cb4202f17195

Took a break from printing fiber to bang out some little postcards!

Shot this frame a few weeks back while walking my dog and was lucky enough to get it into the America/Caribbean section of the Leica Fotografie International gallery so was dying to print it.

No fancy dodging or burning, just a simple split grade print straight from the neg and printed on Ilford Pearl RC.

I’ve found lately that if it’s a flat light/end of the day sort of vibe, printing the bulk of the exposure at contrast 3 and the last stop of exposure at contrast 0 works wonderfully for the sort of contrast I like.

If anyone is into to trading some postcards, I’d be super into it 🖤

Only have a few sheets of this paper left but printing infrared negatives on it just felt right especially with the molding on the outer edges. I have noticed working with this paper that 4x5 negatives print way easier on this paper compared to 35mm negatives. Exposure times for 35mm negatives are around 150 seconds at f2.8 compared to 4x5 negatives needing only 70ish seconds at f11.

My darkroom has a JOBO 2830 drum for prints. I plan on printing one 8x10 at a time. The drum says it needs 100ml of chemistry for 2x 8x10 prints. If I only want to print 1x 8x10, can I put in 50ml of chemistry to save on how much chemistry I’ll be one-shotting? For context, I’m using Bellini’s RA4 5L kit and a JOBO ATL2.

Once they took cadmium out of paper, it aged rapidly. I wonder if anyone has found a way to develop old paper that reduces the fogging and loss of gray scale?