I don’t quite understand why the corners seem to be fine but the rest is completely black.

I managed to make three to four last time but I would like to know it's limit. Get it's not optimal but it's what's at hand.

Why do most of my home developments get this strange chemical swirl on the negs

Is anyone selling a Durst rcp 20? Preferably one already converted for ra-4!

due to some medical weirdness, i’ve come into possession of a pint of my own blood. i’m fairly new to the darkroom, but i am curious - is there any way i could use it in tandem with chemicals for an interesting effect? i hate to let it go to waste.

and no this isn’t a shitpost lol

Could someone tell me what causes these brown streaks on my test strips please?

Hello everyone, I have shot some rolls of Kentmere 400 at 3200, with the intention to develop them myself at home with Microphen at stock solution.

I would have expected the Massive Dev chart to already have an entry, but apparently not. Going off of their guidelines I should be developing at 20 minutes at 68 degress for a 3 stop push.

Has anyone else done this same combo? If so, what times did you use? I have a fear that 20 minutes is too long and is going to cook the negatives

I have been developing 35mm/120 film for a few month now. I am very new to this. When I have been drying my film, I am using Photo-Flo and using my fingers to squeegee the film. Then I put them into the drying closet until they are dried.

However, the drying process is leaving drying spots due to my having hard water. With the photos attached being the worst examples.

What is the best way to clean the negatives that I have now to remove the water spots and how should I go about preventing this in the future?

If anyone has any questions, I am more than help to answer them!

I did find this article from Lomography that shows exactly how to clean the negatives. I just want to make sure this will work and not damage them before I do so.

Any other advice is greatly appreciated!

https://preview.redd.it/qfls1uokslge1.jpg?width=2247&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34d6d694cd6ebafc67a557a9dac06176a8c4f513

https://preview.redd.it/get5urokslge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a605b00c1dc607d5efd65bbb5d24783f5151b46

https://preview.redd.it/d6yn7rokslge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=25afb7addc909ee2a16a68b679bf6e7b327375fa

Hi at all! After shooting Agfa APX 100 and 400 for the last couple of weeks and developing it in FX-39 II my photos came out with very pleasing results: Contrasty, sharp, nice grain texture.

Just recently I switched to HP5+, developed it and was kind of shocked how bad the results looked like and I am quite sure that the issue is not part of the camera and/or scanner setup as nothing has changed there. HP5+ development was done with Massive Dev Chart (FX-39 II 1:9 for 14 Min., 20°C). I picked some photos for a comparison shot with the same lens and under similar lighting conditions (shutter times, aperture should be roughly the same). What really struck me is the lost definition within the grain structure so I double checked my scanner (Plustek 8200i) but it seems to work fine. Question is: Could this be a development issue?

Edit: See comparison in comments.

Edit #2: See second roll in comments.

I’m surely not new to the darkroom. Been processing for 40+ years. What I am new to is multipart powders (I always used Unicolor or Agfa or Kodak liquids. When mixing Cinestill blix, you dissolve part A powder in water. Then when you add part B powder, there is an endothermic reaction which lasts about 5 minutes. My question is this: after adding the part B, should I wait for the reaction to complete before stirring? Or is it permissible to stir while the reaction is happening?

It was my first time developing film. All these greyish blue patches appeared over it. What did I do wrong?

Has anyone ever used the "Edwal s No-Scratch" oil for negatives that show scratches at the base?

Is it worth it? If the negative has several scratches in different places, is it optimal to just cover the entire negative surface?

Thanks.

Barely used, still in box and comes with the original film tank and a paper tank too.

I see very little about the DuoLab but loads of CPE2 stuff. I’m giving it a go as I don’t have space for a CPE2.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Got it free from my uni, still unopened and sealed

I ended up losing half the images from a photo shoot I did.

I was processing 8 x 10 sheets of film in a Stearman press tank. After running out of HC 110, I opened a new bottle. The next image was severely under exposed, and I assumed that I had forgotten to allow for Bellow‘s compensation. Oops! My bad! The next image looked the same I had finished processing half the images before realizing that bottle was actually a T max developer instead of the HC 110.

For those who are unfamiliar, tmax is diluted to 1+4, but hc110, dilution h, is about 1+59. I guess i understand why my images were underexposed / underdeveloped.

Hey folks,

I'm about to kit out my home for a darkroom setup, and I was looking to find what the minimum number of tanks, and what model of tanks, I should get from JOBO to be able to develop the sizes in the title. I likely won't do anything more than 4 rolls of either 120 or 135 at a time, and probably only 1-2 of either of the prints at once (unless I get good enough to multitask).

Thanks for any advice!

I didn’t print.. yet, but got it set up. It will probably be a little cumbersome and annoying, but I’m glad I’ve got the room for it for sure!