This may not be the right sub or could be over most people’s heads (it’s over mine fore sure), but I am in the process of developing my own light meter to analog photography and have come across the issue of “cosine correction”.

My basic understanding is that the cosine correction accounts for semi-indirect light that is impacting the light sensor. I can find a correction diffuser to fix this but do most hot shoe mounted light meters account for this issue? Can ignore this and just assume all my readings are spot metered since this correction factor seems like it would be more useful in something like matrix metering?

Does anyone know what's going on with Splashlight Studio in NYC? There was a post on IG about them going into foreclosure 2/13/25. They've always been inconsistent with paying their freelancers on time or at all. Have they finally imploded and permanently closed?

A friend of mine is a biology teacher at a local community college. He's looking for a simple way to get reasonably high quality photos from his lab microscopes. He's got about $500 to spend.

His microscopes are Zeiss PrimoStar and Nikon Eclipse E100 microscopes and Flinn MS5035 dissecting scopes, if that's helpful.

Some options that's he's considering:

• A mount/adapter for his Nikon D5200.
• A new/used digital camera with a mount/adapter that would only be used for this project.
• iPhone mounts (probably multiples so that more students could use them on more than one microscope).

Also open to other ideas for how to best get this done.

Hey guys i am looking for a good sharp telephoto lens for my r10 with a k&f adapter. Currently working with the 75-300mm which is absolutely 💩 so I'm looking for something decent as the CA on my current lens is really upsetting my love for the hobby. I want to take pictures of birds and occasional astrophotography. My maximum budget would be €800

Hi :) - I'm considering taking a 4x5 field camera from NYC to Ireland in the next year. I've never had a problem hand-checking film in the US. But I have read that it's a bit of a shot in the dark in the UK and Ireland re: whether you'll get a security agent who'll agree to hand-check film at all, let alone properly hand-check large-format film. I'm struggling to find a place in/around Dublin that will develop large-format film (both color and b&w), or a dark room that will allow you to develop your own film without a membership. Perhaps it's unnecessary, but I am worried about my developed film being lost (or x-ray scanned) if I send it back through int'l mail.

Is there a film developing lab you know of in/around Dublin that would process 4x5 color and b&w film?

Hi all,

Currently I am looking for a background which is portable. I have seen one which I would like, but ofcourse it is online and it only has 2 reviews with 3/5 stars. What would you suggest? And do you have experience with certain brands? I'm trying to make the best decision to buy something! And are there people using reflectors as background? Thanks a lot!

I have a photograph which was taken in 2011, which I am printing the first limited edition print of in 2025. Should the date on the COA be the date the photo was taken, or the date the print was made? Or should I include both?

Hi as the title states I’m unhappy with photos I received from a photographer. I will include the Pinterest board I sent photographer, photos I received, and photos from their portfolio (which is huge btw).

Some additional details I had mentioned to the photographer was I liked the look of soft box studio lighting that looks “natural” and/or soft natural lighting, I would like some photos with studio lighting that was “dramatic”, and no props or additional items in frame; The overall look was to be classic and timeless. They suggested two studios and of the two I picked one that I saw had paper pull downs with colors white, black, navy, and beige. It also had rolling walls for backgrounds, huge windows for natural light that had blackout curtains. This photographer had also used this studio before. I also mentioned to the photographer (not over text) that I had booked an extra time 2hrs so we could make sure the images we got were flattering. I wanted to be able to take periodic breaks and make sure that my wardrobe, makeup, poses, etc looked as perfect as possible. We could look at the photos we’d just taken every 10min or so and if things looked off, ie my bra was showing or my hair had fallen weird we could fix it and redo a few shots from that segment and have time. Anyways fast forward to the actual shoot and basically nothing went quite how I expected but she’s the photographer and I can’t see what’s happening on her end. We didn’t use the white pull downs even though I mentioned it she said the white wall would work, we didn’t use the black pull downs because she said the blackout curtains would work, the couch and other items I didn’t want in pics ended up in them because she said we had enough time to play around with them (which I regret should’ve gone for quality over quantity of backgrounds). I had also mentioned specifically wanting studio lighting for at least some of the pictures. She brought her one tiny soft box light that was around 10x12inched if I had to guess. And the breaks I wanted to check for wardrobe, makeup, poses, etc were super rare and her just holding the camera out and super quickly flicking through everything, so quick that I couldn’t really see what’s was going on in the photos. And when I would periodically ask hey does my hair look okay, does my leg look better bent this way or that way, etc. she would just say yes. On top of all that now that I’ve received the photos I feel like they look the opposite of classic and timeless with good even lighting. Am I totally wrong? They aren’t the worst photos but this may be my only maternity shoot and I really wanted to feel beautiful and have images I can look at now and enjoy as well as 50 years down the line. Btw the shoot was $800 including $200 for the stupid. Ideally I would love a partial refund and to book someone else before baby is born. I would be willing to do redo photos but given the experience actually shooting with her AND the quality of the photos I would rather not shoot with her again.

Hello everyone,

Please forgive me if this is a returning question, but I had trouble finding similar issues. I may simply lack the terminology to describe it.

I have had a number of images over the years where patterns of tight repeating lines would cause 'curved line artifacts' to appear on them in various resolutions (please see image: https://maciek-zawada.pixpa.com/images-of-japan/54971983-824901-photo-6).

Please observe the truck to the right of the frame. Depending on what size of screen you view it on, it gets various degrees of messed up. This is the least visible when viewing the image full size. So I do understand that various resolutions will do that to an image sometimes, but there is an inherent issue with the image itself that causes it. Even when viewed full size there appear to be traces of the curved lines visible on the pattern and they get exaggerated when scaling down.

I mean, it does not happen often and I get that 3-4 times per a couple of thousands of images, but it has plagued a couple of shots I really like.

I understand this is a result of a specific interaction between the camera sensor and the pattern, but what I would really like to know is if anyone knows a way to mitigate the issue in post-production (I use Lightroom for my post-prod).

Thanks and have a good day!

I'm just curious, has anybody ever sold their photos to a clothing company? Particularly any of the more famous brands? I don't know much about the process, but I've seen a few shirts lately with pictures on them that got me wondering whether photographers offer up photos to the company, or if the companies approach the photographers.

I'm not asking based on any intention of selling my photos, but it could be an interesting pursuit someday in the future, it's just not something I'd ever really thought about before :)

Use this thread to share your submission(s) for this month's set of prompts. For the full set of prompts click here, and don't forget to join our discord server for regular discussions about the project and all things photography!

Schedule of our community threads:

This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.

Info for Newbies and FAQ!

First and foremost, check out our extensive FAQ. Chances are, you'll find your answer there, or at least a starting point in order to ask more informed questions.

• Want to start learning? Check out The Reddit Photography Class.

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Need buying advice?

Many people come here for recommendations on what equipment to buy. Our FAQ has several extensive sections to help you determine what best fits your needs and your budget. Please see the following sections of the FAQ to get started:

• What type of camera should I look for?
• What's a "point and shoot" camera? What's a DSLR? What's a "mirrorless" camera? What's the difference?
• Do I need a good camera to take good photos?
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Hello folks. I'm off to Saudi Arabia shortly for a work trip and plan to take my newish Lumix M43 camera with me to get some shots in any spare time I might have.

I previously had my old Lumix LX100 zoom jam on me during a trip to Spain during a very dry summer. I have mostly been able to fix that with cleaning and hoovering (tedious process). Yes, that camera is a dust monster by design, but being in a dry and dusty environment using it was not a good idea.

Does anyone have experience of protecting a camera when shooting in dry arid, dusty environments and can advise on any precautions to take please aside from the obvious? This is my first time travelling with an interchangeable lens camera.

• Only swap lenses indoors/vehicle/maybe evn under my jacket?
• Stick to my weather sealed stock lens and don't change at all?
• Keep pouch/bag to hand to hide the camera away if dust starts to blow around in the wind?
• Inspect and clean regularly. Bring cleaning kit.
• Especially blower thing to blast lens and thoroughly inspect before cleaning.

Any tips much appreciated! Thank you.

Was booked for an outfoor photoshoot earlier this morning. The model had picked the location, which was about 2hrs drive away at a remote nature reserve, on TFP basis.

Got to the location an hour before the agreed time, and scouted the location.

The model sent a message 40mins passed the agreed time that said "woke up sick"

I am just furious that I have wasted the past couple of days preparing for the shoot

Thank you for listening to my rant, and getting this far. Im just curious, how would you deal with similar situation?

I will be traveling in a few months and would like to bring a monopod with me on a commercial airline in the US/Canada. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge if these are allowed in carryons or are they a checked only item? Thanks.

I’m going to be interviewed later this week for my first long-term photography job. It’s a position at a family company in a rural area and I would be living on the site. What kind of questions should I ask during the interview? I was told to have questions about the job ready.

Right now I have some questions about their post-processing system but that’s mostly it. I want to be more specific and aware of the details of the job I’ll be taking.

Any advice or ideas would be appreciated.

So I’m going to Chilean Patagonia this fall for three weeks, and I’m trying to figure out what I need to bring for storage. I shoot on the Sony a7Rv, so storage is already an issue. The majority of the trip will be pretty remote so I won’t have a ton of time to back things (photo and video) up to the cloud every night. My plan was just tons of memory cards and SSD’s to have two copies of everything. Any other tips from people who have done these long trips to keep all your data organized and stored in multiple places? Thanks.

I was recently watching a YouTube video about a rectangular hood that can be purchased for certain lenses and the company makes filters to go in front of the hood.

It seems to me like having a filter in front of the hood would almost defeat the purpose of using a hood as any stray light will still cast glare on the filter that would then be picked up by the lens.

Then I also got thinking about the professional 300 and 600mm lenses that Sony makes which have filters that drop into the lens behind most (or all?) of the optics.

My question is what’s the difference? Does putting a filter in front of the hood cause issues? And what are the advantages to a filter that drops into the lens closer to the camera sensor?

So i'm a bit of a noob when it comes to photography as I'm only a first year right now in uni and wanted some advice on what to use and how to make the best of it. First of all i will be using a canon 90D since that's the best camera i can rent from the uni. I was asking some other people that did sport photography and they said the gym was fairly yellow and recommended lenses with an aperture of 2.8. l've been looking around and saw that any shutter speed above 1/500 is good. Are these things good to go off or should i be using and looking out for others bits. Specially what canon lenses would be best suited for indoor basketball photography and what settings should be good. Thank you!

I’m booked to do a catalog photography shoot. It’s for shoes and I will be shooting with models as well as the just shooting the shoes themselves. Any suggestions on settings or a lens that is a must for something like this? I’m new to this format. #photography #lens #catAlog #shoes

I'm an automotive, wildlife and nature photographer.

Currently I have one Instagram account for all of my photography. I've received both positive and negative feedback from others with larger followings in regards to my page being so mixed up with the subjects, and it has caused me to overthink / get stuck. I'm not trying to get famous or anything, but I do want achieve a better following simply for support (my support system in person is almost non existent so I often become discouraged).

I can see the pro being that it'll be more specific to someone's interest, but I also see the con being that it's more to manage and I won't be posting as often since it'll be split up. So I'm torn between whether I want to keep going and just have it mixed up (it's kind of who I am) or to split the automotive from the wildlife and nature, so it'll be more categorized and professional.

Thoughts? Advice? Personal experiences? Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone,

I have a photograph that I would like to get printed at an extra large size. 48x72 to be exact, so I'm looking at 4ft x 6ft for the print. I know this is not going to be an inexpensive endeavor.

I've done a bunch of research on where to get things printed. Online it looks like Bay Photo, White Wall or something like that is the best way. I've gotten a lot of smaller prints done at Shutterfly (used to use Costco) which has worked well for what they are, but their printing does not go that big. Does anyone have any other suggestions or guidance on where?

The second part of my question is the frame. I know I can't just buy one this large off the rack. I can't seem to figure out a good option on how/where to get a frame that is that big.

I'm in the Seattle area if anyone has any local recommendations for either printing or the frame too.

Thanks for any tips and guidance you can provide. Appreciate it!

I just ordered a canon pro-310 printer and want to make photo books/albums of my favorite photos. If you do this, what is your preferred method? Do you buy photo albums and slide them in, just use an adhesive on the back of some sort of paper book or print & bind yourself? I feel like the first option seems like shame for how expensive the photog equipment, printer & paper are lol. Also do you have a favorite paper for this? I'm planning on ordering some from Red River.

I have an upcoming show, and will need several larger size frames for a few pieces. I have the opportunity to place the display pieces for sale, and would appreciate any recommendations where to purchase frames at a good value. I can't afford ultra pricey frames, yet don't want to cheapen my work with lower quality frames. Somewhere in between, I'm sure you guys know that sweet spot and have a go to place for purchasing decent quality at an affordable price. Thanks for any advice and/or recommendations!

Hi there. I am in the process of designing my own Lens Cap for the Sony 400 2.8. As the model stands and I would like to adapt to other Super Telephotos that don’t come with a Lens Cap, I wanted to ask if people who own them could send me the dimensions of the front element, more precisely the inner diameter of the protective lip.

How would I go about creating this through photography or is it even possible?

Dear all,

Currently have a canon 7d with a Canon 100-400mm for track use, but looking for something shorter for pitlane use. Budget is around £400, happy to have second hand! Have been looking at canons 24-70 f4, 24-105 f4 or 28-70 f2.8. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Pete UK

Today, I did an unpaid photoshoot for a local football team (I’m a hobby photographer). I was happy to help! But the photos turned out a bit grainy because it was foggy, and I forgot to set my ISO manually—some shots ended up at ISO 2000.

I’ve used Darktable and RawTherapee before, but they weren’t great at reducing noise. Determined to get it right, I started a 7-day trial of Adobe Lightroom. Their AI denoise feature worked flawlessly.

However, I’m considering canceling before the trial ends. Since I don’t shoot year-round, committing to an expensive annual subscription doesn’t make sense for me. Instead, I’m looking at ON1 Photo RAW for $60—a one-time purchase. I can afford it, and I don’t edit much beyond basic touch-ups, cropping, and denoising. Even if it becomes outdated after a year, it’s still half the price of Lightroom.

The most important feature for me is AI-powered denoising and being able to adjust the background—I need it to salvage some photos. Of course, I’m also working on improving my camera settings to avoid these issues in the first place, but mistakes happen, and having the right editing tool is essential.

Would you recommend ON1 Photo RAW for my needs?

What do I do as a photographer, my camera and gear with SD card was lost in luggage flying. I think they have 3 months until they can find it or refund but I have client photos in there I need to deliver soon. It was my mistake for checking it in but I had kids and my hands full to carry on a camera bag. Refund and explain situation to client ?

exactly what the title says! I'm trying to finish making a baseline portfolio this weekend because I'm trying to request a photo pass for a small show (relatively unknown artists but bigger than DIY, held in a bar/lounge) coming up on the 15th! i have a couple questions and would also appreciate any input anyone may have, especially fellow concert photographers who have sought photo passes early in their career.

bare minimum, how many pictures should i include? for reference, i am planning on having a main page with images that link to galleries, with the gallery categories being: concerts, street photography, landscape, portraits, events (categories subject to change)

considering i don't have a ton of photos I'm currently absolutely sure of including (mainly because i have a backlog of photos i need to edit lol . hundreds 😵‍💫), would it be best to forgo the categories i have the fewest ready for - street photog/landscape mainly? those categories wouldn't really be relevant for this specific situation anyway.

mainly know i have to include some concert shots (of course) and want to include some portraits and other event photog as well. i have some from drag shows and open mic nights that take essentially the same skillset/could pass as concert photography to someone who wasn't aware those events weren't concerts. i feel like including them, as well as some of my more intriguing portraits, could be beneficial as they add to the variety and are in a very similar vein to concert photography especially with the costumes, staging, and lighting.

any advice is appreciated! been doing concert photography since i was about 12-13, though only got my hands on a DSLR last summer so only been really serious about it and growing my skillset/connections/career since then! there's likely some pages in the FAQ that could help me with this but i was hoping to get some info tailored to my specific situation R.E. seeking a photo pass for a smaller-scale band.

apologies if I'm somehow breaking the rules with this, did go over them! not really sure how flairs work so hope i used it right