I'm so torn between the Wildpeaks and the Toyos. I was dead set on the Toyos until I saw the reviews on their website saying they are horrible in the rain and as the tread looses life. The Wildpeaks are so heavy!

I've decided to go with the 275's. It's a daily driver that makes it to the snow many times in the winter (snowboarder that likes to chase storms/powder) and hits the backcountry/mountain trails in the summer (camper that likes to spend weeks trying to fish not so known lakes in the mountains). So it needs to be a good rain/snow tire (when it really matters). It's a 22 OR no KDSS.

Does anyone here run any of these or have any experience with tires in these conditions. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

So i posted about the step i got for hitch n got backlash from some of our friends from this sub. But i am really curious and want knowledge about that how it is different from the full STEEL or ALUMINIUM bumper on the rear for tire hang n all and also on the front with hitch. Why person hitting from rear can’t sue that person who installed that bumper which is really heavy and rugged??

Hey everyone, has anyone had this happened to them in their 4runner? I have a 2018 4runner. I bought it used back in 21’ and of course by the time all the paper work was done it was night time. As I was driving home I noticed on the steering wheel on the right side the lighting was flickering. I let the dealership know and they didn’t give a shit. Whatever. The light on the right side totally gave out shortly after and now the left side is starting to flicker. Is there anything that can fix this? Or would I need a new steering wheel?

I have a 2022 SR5 Premium with all the nice features like adaptive cruise control and auto high beams but no auto headlights?? Can someone tell me why that’s the case

Just posting this here since YT told me he just released this vid. Cheers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rQb9Q3RsOc

I have a 2006 Toyota 4Runner Sports Edition 4WD with 159,000 miles and I have been wanting to get a lift on my 4runner literally forever (at least 3inches) and I have no car experience whatsoever. I also need to get my shocks and struts fixed as well since they are rusted and cracked, so is this something I should get all at once? How much should I save for parts and labor? Is it a bad idea to get tires and rims off of facebook marketplace/preowned? What lift kits are affordable while still having good quality? what size tires and rims should I be looking at? What brands? I've been doing research but it is always good to hear from real people who aren't trying to sell me something. Thank you !

Hello,

I'll try to make this as short as it can be. I installed icon 2.5 ext travel coilovers in the front a couple months ago. Everything was fine until I got it aligned. After that it would grind from a stop or hard acceleration and sometimes on left/right turn.

I've taken it back to the alignment shop 3 times with no help. Went to an offroad shop, and they had no idea but were able to rule out anything being loose or rubbing.

My concern now is that it seems to be getting worse, I can now hear the grinding during acceleration, braking, and coasting. UJoints are greased, there's no play in the wheels at 12 and 6, and noise doesn't go away in 4wd.

I'm leaning towards something with the brakes or dust cover at this point, but I appreciate all the help I can get.

2022 sr5 with 2.5 in front, 2 in back. Full skid plates.

It’s a tad chilly in my current location.

Joined the 4Runner crew, thought I’d be responsible and do my own oil change. Oil filter housing was absolutely LOCKED on, had to use a torque drill to get it to budge. After going through war for 45 minutes, I managed to get it off. Thought I’d be proactive and change the housing to a metal one. Popped in the original middle piece from the plastic housing, popped in the filter and was gently placing it back in, and made sure to torque to recommended specs. Lo and behold, O ring did not sit right, turned on the car to make sure for no leaks, went into the garage to start tidying up, and what is that I hear? A whizz similar to holding your finger over a garden hose. Yup, oil everywhere.

I’ve got a 2016 4Runner that I run the DRL at all times when the vehicle is on. Only the left one has gone out.

I’m assuming that means it’s most likely a burnt bulb, correct? Not a relay issue or anything else?

Does anyone have a recommendation on best brands for a 9005 HB3 LED fog lightbulb?

This is what I currently have.

I will be paying off my 5th gen ORP by the summer and I'm already brainwashing myself, from watching all the YouTubers review the 6tn gen, to get another vehicle. Yes, ofc, the iForce isn't what I would ideally want, but honestly it's been a solid engine for the past 5-ish years it's been in production. Even TCCN agrees with this and seems like all reviewers are saying the ride quality and the material quality of the fancier trims is really nice. I will admit, I am a sucker for nice interiors.

Anyways, one thing I have been reading a lot and also the redditor in this sub that went from LC250 to 5th gen 4R and also reviewers and even Jason Cammisa are all saying the same damn thing; the LC250's interior is cheap af for the price, come on, Toyota! Sure the base 1958 is supposed to be basic... but did Toyota really have to give it the cheapest interior? Also, the hybrid is pretty useless since it gets bad MPGs like a regular iForce would... so added weight isn't worth the little better torque off the line.

Call me a hater, but the LC250 makes no sense to me. If I wanted the boxier form factor, I'd just go for the GX550... but as a 4Runner junkie, I think the Limited is an amazing buy.

BTW, all I optioned in my build of the 4R Limited was the Portabella interior and the retractable side steps. The 1958 is full base without any options.

Does anyone know of a locking gas cap for 2024 Toyota 4Runner that won't cause the check gas cap message to come on.

What y’all think

Better looking to my eye in this more conservative trim, but still on the fence after seeing it in person.

https://preview.redd.it/m2bvneziszge1.jpg?width=3136&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bef71c599b3a6ec62ded676e9726945c82ea4bcb

Hello!

tldr: my alternator/battery is either overcharging at 15-18v or not charging at all and dropping into 11s.  Trying to understand if this points to a bad starter or something else.

History: battery light came on two weeks ago and I cleaned battery terminals and it went away.  It came back intermittently about 1.5wks later and then was driving at night(headlights on, more power draw) and dash lights started to dim and ¼  mile later could only drive very slowly in first gear.  Pulled over and there was a thick sulfur-ish smell.  Came back 45mins later and was able to get it started and it seemed fine but after driving ¼ mile it happened again(no smell though) and I pulled over.  After waiting, this happened one more time and then I got a jump and was able to drive home.  Seemed like an obvious case of battery undercharging and there being an issue with alternator.

My battery was almost 5yrs old so I bought a new one and then drove directly to Autozone to have the car tested.  Battery light came on while I was driving but was off once I got there.  They tested battery/starting/charging system and all passed.  The battery light turned back on shortly after I left.  Once I got home I tested battery with car running and it was at 18v.  I turned it off and was closer to 16v and it discharged from there over time.  I then thought I had a bad voltage regulator and that my initial assumption(undercharging) had been incorrect.  I replaced my alternator with a reman and after doing so the light came on after about 5mins of driving and voltage read 15.8v with the engine off. 

I left it alone for a couple of days and battery moved back down to 12.3v but when I turned on the car and drove for a bit the voltage dropped down to as low as 11.6v.  So, at this point, it seems like both problems can be present: sometimes it overcharges and sometimes it doesn’t charge at all

There’s a thicker wire between alternator and battery and continuity is fine.  I’ve tested continuity between the three wires in the alternator harness and the harness that connects to the fuse box—and there are no wire breaks.  I tested that the white wire from the harness has continuity with the Alt-S fuse but am not sure which fuses the other two wires(assuming IG and Alt Light) connect to. 

Additional history: for about the last year I’ve lived with an issue where I can’t consistently start the car when turning the key.  Sometimes it will start on the first try but other times I have to continually pump the clutch until it catches.  After that it runs fine.

No OBD codes are showing up.

Any recs?  I have to reply to 15posts before they’ll let me post at toyota-4runner org so am trying here first.  I saw an old post elsewhere where somebody mentioned they had a similar issue that was resolved with replacing the starter but they were short on details.   Was hoping to have something a little more definitive before I replace another part that isn’t the problem. Also, I’m about to fry my computer from all the excess ads that pop up in all of these forums.

Thanks!

97’ 4Runner with 281k miles. Bad oil leak and engine started smoking, maybe due to being run with little to no oil?. Initial diagnosis was valve covers needed to be replaced, as well as spark plugs and new timing belt/water pump kit, brake fluid flush and air boot intake replacement? Shop estimated $3k on Friday and I approved the repairs to be done, and I got this message from the lead mechanic today. Will the initial estimated repairs make the car run again or will I need a new engine like he is saying? Replacing spark plugs and oil every couple thousand miles is a lot more manageable than an engine replacement for me financially. I’m not too well versed with engine mechanics so any advice is appreciated, please be kind <3 thank you

Anybody have any experience running drilled/slotted rotors off road? I've never had them before and I'm looking to put new rotors on and I see that they claim to be for off roading with better heat dispersion....etc. Curious to hear from people that have ran them or know somebody that does.

I see they’re having a sale and I’m curious how the install is. I’ve done my skids and sliders from them myself so I’m somewhat competent, I just don’t want to mess anything up. Found it kind of odd Sherpa had torque specs on their install guide and RCI doesn’t. Thanks!

Purchased an ‘04 Sport — came with 3 Yokohama Geolander H/T G056 and back right is Yokohama HTX. Decent tread depth on all 4. Will taken through mountains to ski and light to medium off road in summer.

Best plan of attack? Find one matching, replace all 4, good to drive through the winter?

Anyone know of any new old stock of 5th gen’s sitting around?