I’m about to install a new ABS/master cylinder module on my 2002 4R. Does anyone have any tips for the install as I am having trouble finding a video for my year model.

Found this Momo with a little leather damage for dumb cheap with a hub. Thinking about swapping it for something black wood grain.

Question. I have a lot of rust on the exterior under all the doors. What is the best option to remove it and clean it out? Live in Columbus Ohio.

‘98 auto, 4wd, 270k miles

Entire truck lurches and rear end squats a couple inches when shifting between drive-reverse.

• Already greased the drive shaft zerks (no difference)

• U joints aren’t sloppy

…. So what could cause this?

Only other thread i’ve found online with these symptoms (specifically the rear end “squatting” after shifting into gear) solved it by replacing transmission entirely.

…But I want to isolate the problem before even entertaining that.

I’m unsure how a worn rear diff would cause the whole truck to squat when shifting into drive, but haven’t ruled it out.

Worth noting there’s a also a pretty persisent grinding / humming noise coming from the undercarriage whenever my foot is off the throttle. I’ve drain and filled the tranny a few times (fluid came out pretty rancid and burnt-smelling) but the thing shifts flawlessly.

Anyone have similar symptoms?

Found it under my seat, no idea where it goes

I’ve been shopping for different options and need some advice…

I’m trying to put together a very budget setup, I was looking at the 5th gen rear energy suspension bumps for the front. My only concern is that this only replaces the rear LCA bump stop while the LCA has a front and rear?? Is it important that both of these are replaced at the same time for continuity in sizes? Let me know what you guys have been doing.

Currently going to try replacing the rears with 5.25” extended bumps off of similar year blazers and jimmy’s

I’m chasing a traction control issue when accelerating from a stop. The VSC and Trac lights are not on. When accelerating from a stop, the squiggly line traction light will flash and I lose accelerating power. If I step on the gas hard, it seems to not give it a chance to fully activate and I only lose power for a second. This started happening after I got new tires, Falken Rubitreks. No changes to suspension. It’ll happen on a flat surface and a hill. It didn’t happen when I engaged 4x4 and was driving on snow. I’m not sure what I should do next to try to fix it, it seems like a different traction issue than people tend to have with these. I cleaned the ABS sensors but maybe they’re bad? Not sure if they’d only cause a traction issue when accelerating from a stop though.

I had a person point towards these to solve my problem. I have a 2000 limited with bilstein 5100 3inch lift. Both oem axles have leaked grease from the joint from the lift. The guy said that a lot of people talk good about them in this Reddit and I also wanted to know that if these are ones I can just put in and don’t have to do anything else? Thanks!

Since I got my truck (1999) the rear wiper has not worked. Rear window/water sprayer/demister all work fine, but the wiper wont.

I replaced the wiper unit from a wreck hoping it would work, but didnt.

I followed Toolman Tim's guide on split wires from the boot being opened and closed too much, but they are all fine.

I looked over the wiring diagram and Im struggling to make sense of which wires from the rear ecu <> wiring connector at top of boot are.

I'm being defeated by a wiper! Does anyone have any suggestions how I might track down what appears to be a single wire break? (since everything else works)

Anybody ever had an issue getting a corner light to fit? My passenger side I changed bulb and replaced in 30 seconds

Driver side screw don’t line up when the lights lined up in fender fender don’t seem to be damaged I broke the bottom bracket that holds corner light I’m so now I’m strictly relying on the screw to hold it

I’m replacing lights again eventually I just really wanted to get a corner light for now

Just to break the back housing and the screw to not fit I’ll probably just end up zip tying the corner light to the housing just trying to get some kinda tips to help keep the light in

Rebuilding the block on my 99 4Runner and was looking to get a rebuild kit. Thought they’re supposed to expensive but I found this one and was curious to see if it’s worth it or not

I just bought a limited 2000 4Runner but I can’t figure out the second row, does it fold down flat? It’s possible I’m just blind TIA

99 4R limited 4wd center and rear locked. Just hooked up my new Scangauge thinking I’d be able to monitor trans temps, but no read? Is it possible there’s bad wiring from trans to ECM or do 99s just not read trans temps period? TIA

Check engine light blinked 10 times, replaced the plugs and wires, this came out of cylinder 4. Any suggestions?

Wv area

So my LBJ finally gave way a 300K, and I can’t get the tire off, (I’ve tried with my impact), the CV axel is broke in half, and it’s clearly not drivable. So if anyone has recommendations of how to fix this let me know, cuz I’m lost in the sauce.