How does one know for a fact that there shock tower is bent? If it is how could I fix it or get it fixed?

I’m going to put either te37’s, gram lights, or rays!

So first off I want to say I am not a mechanic by trade. I'm a parts changer and mild troubleshooter at most. I have a flipped 1997 trd 4x4 with auto tranny and rear e locker. I am currently driving a 1998 limited 4x4 with auto tranny and rear e locker. The tranfer cases are different so this may be a noob question, but are the rear ends geared the same? Are the third members the same? I need to rebuild or replace my rear end. My 97 trd is in AL and I'm in FL so I can't just climb underneath both of them at the same time to look for myself. Thanks for the patience with my noob question just trying to save a buck by using 2 runners to make a better one. 🤙

I can tell by searching that people will get pissed but I did look for the answer first… I have stock 16” wheels on my 97 and have ran two sets of KO 265/75r16 with no problems. The wheels were getting crusty so I found a set of wheels from a 2002 Tacoma and mounted some Toyo Open Country AT3 265/70r17 and the guy installing them said the rubbed. The only difference I can tell with the tires is the Toyos seem to have a more flared sidewall. Is there an offset difference between the two wheels. So I’m sitting on a grand of tires in my shed. Opinions? Thanks

Just hit 270k and I'm officially due for a new timing belt.

I know I should also replace the water pump while I'm at it, and although I recently did the thermostat with the radiator, I'm fine redoing it.

I'm wondering what else I should do. I didn't have any significant records of engine or transmission maintenance from the previous owners, but I do have a fine glittery sheen in my oil. My valve cover gaskets are pretty done... I know nothing about the transmission other than that it is working currently.

I'm getting recommendations for local shops to go to, and I want to have my list pretty solidified. This truck is my daily, and my aim is to do preventative maintenance along with the scheduled stuff. Give 'er the TLC she's been overdue for while ideally keeping time under the wrench at a minimum.

Thanks!

Im hoping you all have experience with hood protectors here. My 4R' is lighter in color, so in my eyes a lower profile, smaller one looks best. I looked at AVS's website, they seem like the biggest, most quality hood protectors. Their AEROSKIN seems to be the lowest profile, but it doesn't look like it's made for the 3rd gen. Any help would be nice.. If you have a pic, post it!

Curious if any of yall have hauled their deer back home in the back of their 4 runner or if they use one of the tailgate cargo racks or roof racks. I am afraid that hauling the deer in the back of the runner may not be worth it as the cleanup would be a nightmare even if I throw down a tarp/plastic

I was wondering if anyone knew what this little guy was called? Ended up breaking my cargo cover while moving some stuff and I think this piece fell out from one end, making the cargo cover worthless unless I replace it.

Anyone know what it’s called? Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new cover?

Thanks a lot

Have a 1999 4runner 3.4L V6, brought in with low idle and stalling in gear. Previous person working on it replaced Knock sensors and reused Old intake gaskets, causing vacuum leaks. They then proceed to replace the IAC, O2 Sensors, Valve cover gaskets , fuel filter. ETC to fix vacuum leak they created. They did nothing right and created more leaks both vacuum and Oil . Owner Brought to me to fix. I Replaced lower Intake gasket, Replaced Fuel Injectors, Replaced Valve cover gaskets, Replaced all cracked broken hoses. Vehicle now starts and Idles but has a PO171 Lean Code. Idles at a little over 1100 rpms when warm and Idles at about 600 at cold start up, which is opposite what it should be.

All my readings for TPS, Maf, IAC duty cylce are within range, O2 Sensors are working properly all numbers match another 99 4runner in the shop other than the Long term fuel trim of over 30%. at idle that decreases slightly when driving. I am thinking fuel pump. I do not have a fuel pressure tester for this vehicle and it does not have a port to check. Vehicle was smoked with no Leaks anywhere, Any advice on where else to look before dropping tank? Constructive advice only please.

Putting all my might into this drain plug and it won't budge. Any advice?

If so I was wondering all the info needed to know to dive into a project like this?

I am looking at the larger 13WL brake upgrade for my Hilux. However I have heard that the 13WL kit won’t fit in most 16” wheels. I am running Stealth F5’s 16x8 -25 with a spacer and have a good bit of room between wheel and brake parts. Can anyone confirm the 13WL kit will fit in these wheels?

spprecision.com which is the domain for "Xtreme Performance" is a scam site, im unsure if they sell remanufactured units for any of their products, let alone the "upgraded" units they claim to sell. I was looking originally at their site for a remanufactured and upgraded A340e for my 02 SR5, and after reading a bit about it, it seems to be either a fake or scammy site. I dont know the length of how they operate or what they do wrong, but from reading other reddit posts about it, i avoided it. Like everything bad for sale, it looks too good to be true, they say they sell an A340 with upgraded valve bodies and clutches, but this is not true, because one reddit post i read, said after they ordered a reman unit, they received a very obviously used, most likely high miles unit with oil and shit seeping out of it. Be wary of these sites, in my opinion it would be better to buy a low miles used unit, whether that be engine or transmission, unless you can be certain of how the remanufacture is being performed, oftentimes even professional builders/shops get shit wrong and your truck wont shift right because they assembled something wrong or forgot to add preload to a who's-its-face deep inside the tranny or whatever. Just my two cents, hopefully this helps someone.

Hey guys, I could really use some help on getting rid of my steering wobble. It starts around 45mph and it’s the worst when I’m going 60-80mph. It will have a gentle wobble 70% of the time, rough wobble 15%, and no wobble for the other 15%.

Things I’ve replaced: 173k - OEM LBJs, OEM Outer Tie rods, alignment 178k - TBU OEM calipers 13WL, slotted powerstop kit (I have 1” spacers) 180k - OEM Full rack and pinion assembly, alignment Polyurethane bushings, sway bar link PU bushings 181k - Bilstein 4600s with Toyotec springs 1.5” front, 2” rear, alignment 181,400 - Moog LCAs (I was too poor for OEM) New front sway bar links, (probably Moog from rockauto) 4- 265/75/16 Toyo Open Country tires, alignment. 187,925 - JBA UCAs, alignment

All I can think of next is: Tack welding the slip joint, and maybe new OEM LBJs and OEM Tie rods from the 15k miles of wobble wear/tear? Any recommendations of shops to take it to? I’m just south of SLC and I’ll gladly buy beer/leave tips for the techs.

I don’t feel the steering wheel clicking during the wobble very often. I’d say it happened 15% of the time when it was wobbling before I changed the LCAs. That was the biggest improvement from everything being replaced.

I’m a motorcycle mechanic, not a car mechanic, so any insight y’all have is helpful to me. I follow torque specs for each bolt, and replace any bolt with OEM when looking a bit too rusty. I’m in UT. So very few areas are rusty enough on the frame to watch out for.

Anyone confirm whether or not this would fit?

After my 4 runner sat for 4 days in 30-40F degree temps, it knocked for 1-2 sec on a cold start. But ran fine after than, and hasnt don't it since. 257k miles. I use 5w30.

I immediately shut it off and checked all the fluids, nothing was low. and re-started fine. I always let it warm up for a minute or so when it cooler out.

Has never done this before, is this cause for concern? Or just had no oil for a sec?