I have a 1996 4Runner with the 3.4 and I'm having starting issues. It starts great when cold, but I have to crank it for 10ish seconds before it starts when it's hot. It'll crank right up if it's hot and it's only been off for a few minutes. All symptoms point to the fuel pressure regulator so I've tested it and it holds a vacuum (I tested it for about 10 min). I've replaced all the vacuum lines I could find. The intake tube is new. Spark plugs (gapped correctly), wires and coils are new within the past year. Cleaned the throttle body and IAC. My biggest question is, vacuum routing. My vacuum line coming off of the fuel pressure regulator goes to a hard line under the upper intake manifold and then to a soft line to the chamber on the intake tube. But when you crank the engine, there is no measurable vacuum on the line. Shouldnt there be? When I disconnect that line while it's runnng, there is no vacuum. I've checked it and there are no blockages (it's also new). If I disconnect the chamber that it attaches to, there is vacuum there when it's running. Any suggestions?

I have developed a significant coolant leak on my 97 t4r it seems to be coming right above the front differential from a metal cannister looking object on the engine, can anyone tell me what this is ?

I hate to do it but I don't want it to sit and get worse. I'm in North Carolina and looking for advice. 2000 sr5 4×4 280k miles, transmission gave out recently and was told it was damaged beyond repair. I have already bought a new car and want/need to sell, I'm just curious if I should cut my loses or repair and sell with new/used transmission. I recently did the timing belt and am reluctant to put more money into it. Thanks y'all

hello everyone. i’ve just recently gotten the codes P0100 and P0110. I’ve been having issues with hesitation when i accelerate for the last 3 weeks to a month prior with no codes. i tested the MAF sensor and had no idea what was “good” or “bad” from the readings because there is nothing that i could find ohms wise. not even my Chiltons book has the correct readings for it. i don’t have a live readings OBD2 reader.

did the unplug the MAF sensor and try to start the car test and it didn’t even start. so my dad and i thought, “okay it’s not that”. he had me try and press the brakes and the gas at the same time and it hesitated or something and he said he thinks it’s the coil packs. One has been replaced by the previous owner, so maybe the other ones are on their way out too.

So i go to drive home yesterday and as im taking a turn into my neighborhood, it stalls. thank goodness it’s night time and im going slow. the battery light and the oil pressure light came on and i was able to slow enough to force it into park. the brakes didn’t work or the steering 😵‍💫. very scary. that’s when i started it back up and slowly drove it to my house and pulled the codes.

Do i just buy a new MAF sensor? Do i replace the coil packs too? I’ve tried searching the forums and people have replaced both and have seemed to fix it. Do i even have an IAT sensor? I think my MAF sensor is combined with it from what i could see.

I’ve replaced the spark plugs twice, IAC valve, TPS. i’ve checked and fixed vacuum leaks and tears in the intake hose to the TB prior to this when i had a high idle. I’ve replaced A LOT of things but what else should i take a look at next? I don’t want to keep throwing parts at it, then again the parts are all old and i plan on keeping this car forever until the day it finally dies, so they need to be replaced anyway😕

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I know i always come here for advise but im stuck and could use some advise from others who have maybe had the same problem. I’m thinking of getting the MAF sensor to start, but then again it could be something else that’s causing it and not just the MAF sensor failing.

Thank you in advance! Wondering if there is anyone who knows a good mechanic shop in Charleston South Carolina.

02 sr5, still going strong 💪🏻

Just a few days ago I picked up a 1996 Hilux Surf SSX-R, it is running and driving still but needs new Shift Solenoids. I am looking at Toyota OEM from Japan as they are less than Toyota USA. Is there a good brand on rock auto that anyone can reccomend? Or just stick to OEM. And since I will be dumping and flushing the trans fluid. Does the trans fluid I put back in need to he Toyota OEM? The only transmission fluid I have replaced other than manuals is a Prius CVT fluid and that is very picky about having to be Toyota OEM. Are the A340F picky? Or as long as it meets modern ATF standards it’s good to go?

Is rough country really so bad I should bite the bullet and spend the extra 400 for the billstein set up?

Leak is occuring on passenger side

It's been raining pretty steady for a few days and I noticed this small wet spot start to appear on the passenger side roof. Do you guys know what the cause could be and is there anything I can do about it?

Thank you in advance! I am getting a misfire in cylinder 2. I get a shake every other time I turn the ignition on and gets worse when I put it in drive. When I replace the spark plug and ignition wire it drives like a dream for only so long and then back again. Is this a timing belt issue or fuel injectors? I’d love to hear how I can diagnosed this myself without going into a shop. Thank you again!

Had the old oem wheels on this baby for too long and I had to get her some new shoes, praise the FB Marketplace gods. She looks so pretty now☺️

Just put on some 265/75R16 BFG KO2's on my 2000 SR5 with stick Suspension and no rubbing.

I live in the Midwest so I can't wait to drive this in the snow.

Bought it just for being a v6 with manual and e-locker.

2000 4Runner in CA that wont pass smog due to check engine light. Codes are showing as:

• P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 (stored)
• P0330 - Knock Sensor 2 (stored)
• P0171 - System Too Lean (pending)

From what I've searched, I would need to have repaired/replaced:

• Mass Air Flow Sensor (for code P0171)
• Knock Sensors (for codes P0325/P0330)
• Valve Cover Gaskets (leaking)
• Intake Manifold Gaskets (if knock sensors require them to be removed)
• Sensor Wire Harness (brittle and might as well replace if in there)

4runner has 260k on it. And there is zero desire to ever get rid of it, just maintain it as needed. Timing belt has been taken care of. All else is regularly maintained.

With all that - is there anything else I should consider having done while the mechanic 'is in there', since there is so much labor to replace these sensors? Anything else I should be aware of before speaking with my mechanic?

1999 SR5 2WD. Looking to upgrade the suspension and ride quality. I know it’s a 25yr old truck suspension so I don’t expect luxury, but my suspension is the original so would like to see an upgrade. I also see some slight vibration at 70+.

Not looking for lift, 1in would be fine, but anything bigger would make my 30.5in tires look silly.

Stock bumpers, won’t be loading her down with weight.

Would swapping UCAs be smart to do at the same time?

Just replaced the heater control valve on my 2000, and the cable comes loose whenever I change from cold to hot.

Any ideas on how to fix this?