I’m in the market for some shocks and springs to lift my 2004 4Runner 2.5-3.0 inch. I’m set on the OME 2886 springs all around… but I cannot between the Bilstien 5150s or the OME 90000 nitro charger sport shocks. I need options.

Thoughts? Wasn’t the easiest job in the world but also not too hard, very happy with the results looks like stock fender flairs.

Cheers everyone.

After trying to find any sort of right answer, I have struck out. I am moving to Utah in May, and will be bringing my 4runner. Currently deciding between the short or long tube Doug Thorley Headers. I can’t find any concrete answers on what the emissions are like in Utah. I would rather do long tube headers, just not sure if they would pass. Any information would be great.

Hey yall so I just swapped the OEM tail lights on my 05 4runner with OEM 2006+ tail lights. I kept the bulbs that came with the "new" ones, although I believe for the turn signal, it's the same bulb as the old ones. Everything works fine, but my left turn signal is hyperflashing. I swapped the bulb with one of my old ones, and it still hyperflashed. The right tail light is perfectly fine. Any advice?

Hey all. I’m thinking about ordering a scanguage for my 2004 v8 Limited. I have a Blue Drivers OBD2 reader and I can monitor data live, but it does NOT have the transmission temperature as an option that I can select.

Will a ScanGuage be able to do it on a 2004? (Note 2003 and 2004 4Runners have a less sophisticated electronics system. The 2005+ has a CANBUS system.)

Has anyone used this full magnaflow replacement on their dying OEM exhaust system? If so please reach out id love to hear your experience with it. I know them to be a good company and i even have a muffler of theirs already on my car but just wanna know if i can trust the rest of their products on my baby 👶

I'm currently fixing up little problems on my 4runner for a 23 hour trip home after my honorable discharge from the navy. Im having a couple of different problems but the one ive been trying to fix for years is the parking break. I cant tell which direction to pull the thing up or down in the drum and i know for a fact its loose currently, but im afarid everytime i tighten it itll be too tight. Any help would be appreciated thanks

Photo is for attention haha 😄

Visiting family in Bakersfield and stopped off at O'Reilly's...on the way back to LA to get a tool to remove my oil filter and swap it out. Normally a less than 5 minute job.

They somehow didn't have the correct tool and the manager tried using a pair of channel locks to take the old filter off.

Well, he did that while I was in the store looking for the correct size tool.

He couldn't remove it, and I decided to head back to LA and use my tool back home.

Turns out Lil homie made the tiniest of holes in my filter which caused a qt and a half of used Amsoil to spooge out all over the driver's side of my 4.0. I didn't notice until I was over the ridge route, when the smell of cooked oil on my manifold started smoking.

Fortunately I caught it then and checked the oil level which after my rebuild never ever got low was now over a qt down.

Topped it off, made it back home and put a new filter on and did an early oil change for good measure.

PSA. Don't trust Oreilly's employees with your runner. That could have turned into a very large problem. 😬😬

Lights would pop on then off occasionally. Now are stuck on. I still have full breaking power. Nothing feels odd. What should I check first?

Yesterday I noticed that my passenger side inner CV boot was pretty badly torn. I don't know how long it's been torn for but I would estimate a few months (I know, negligent of me not to notice earlier). I'm worried I should replace the whole axle because it's been awhile without the issue getting addressed and my current axle might be damaged. What causes damage to a CV axle and is there a way of evaluating the need to replace vs. re-boot?

I'm hesitant to replace the axle with aftermarket because I've read mixed reviews online. I don't do any crazy wheeling so I'm sure aftermarket could be fine, but the Toyota reliability angel on my shoulder says that OEM is the way to go. OEM CV axles are $300 each though! Parts for a reboot kit would be around $80, and I'm enthusiastic about taking it apart and learning more about the engineering in the process (even though it's super messy).

To slightly complicate matters I've had a hollow front end clunk for ~6 months. I haven't been able to isolate the cause of the issue, but I'm worried it could be caused by my cv axle. I've checked my sway bar end links and bushings and they're in rough shape, so I'm planning on replacing those too. Based on my research and intuition I suspect it's the sway bar and not the CV axle causing the issue, but I won't know until I've addressed both. Here's a thread referencing the front end clunk.

Thanks for any insight you can provide. The answer that I want to hear is that it's ok to just reboot the OEM axle, but I'm willing to replace the whole axle with OEM/aftermarket if that's the practical and correct thing to do.

https://preview.redd.it/voj93lbzasge1.jpg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c0ea1851b258f26409fdbc1d9252c2ab49420bd7

I'm planning on lifting my 07 V6 sometime in the next few months and I've been doing lots of research online. It has ~110,000 miles with it's original suspension to it's due for an upgrade. I've read this forum which provides a detailed overview on all things 4th gen lifts and watched many of Tinkerer's Adventure 's videos (highly recommend btw, very objective and detailed information on Toyota IFS). Nonetheless, I still have some confusion if I should replace my rear coils or just the the shocks, and generally I could use some advice on my thought process.

My goals are to achieve a smoother ride experience when driving on washboard roads, moderate trails, and on-road. I figure I might as well get a small to moderate lift in the process (something between 1-2 in in the front and 1-2 in in the rear). I don't do any crazy wheeling and don't intend to. One of my favorite things about my 4runner is it's reliability and simplicity, so I don't want to make too many changes to the suspension to keep with that ethos. I don't want an aftermarket UCA, diff drop, sway bar relocates, etc. I drive stock tires right now but plan on upgrading to 32's (at most) in the next few years when my tread runs out.

I'm pretty set on getting Bilstein 6112's for the front suspension. I've heard Fox 2.0's have a smoother ride experience, but Bilstein seems more reliable and it'll be an upgrade from my stock suspension nonetheless. I'm debating between Bilstein 5100's and 5160's for the rear. I keep hearing the expression "buy once cry once" and I agree with that sentiment, so part of me thinks I should just go for the 5160's. However since I don't do any crazy wheeling I know the 5100's would be completely adequate. Any thoughts on 5100 vs. 5160? (I've read exact threads on this topic just for the record, I'm just looking for opinions for my specific use case).

Another source of confusion is if I should upgrade my rear coils. Just to clarify, for the rear, the coils are what's responsible for lifting the vehicle, not the shocks? In other words, if I want to lift my rear I have to upgrade my coils, correct? Secondly, how much do coils impact ride quality compared to the shocks? I don't mind the stock rake on my truck so I'm considering 2 in lift in both the front and rear, or maybe 2 in front and 1 in rear to slightly offset the rake.

Thank you for any insight you can provide. I've tried to do as much research as I can before posting, as I see the same questions asked over and over again and I don't want to be that guy.

I’ve got a 2004 Limited V8. One day I was using an OBD2 reader and somehow stability control and traction control became disabled. I love it.

ABS still works ATRAC still works in 4WD Lo.

When I drive in the winter snow I feel so much better because the car isn’t interfering with wheel spin or little slips and slides.

How did I disable it? How do I NOT accidentally fix it?

Edit: it’s a 2004 v6 sr5 with 252 xxx miles on it 🥲

Anyone have this happen? Tried to get gas today and when I tried to pull the release lever, nothing was happening. Had to basically use my pocketknife to get a gap, and pull with all my strength to finally pop it open. Looks like the hinge is bent 🙃. Does the whole latch need replaced?

I’m running -12 offset 9.5 rims on 265/65s. I just bought 285/70s and wondering if they will fit without a BMC with the -12 offset. Another question, anyone know if a diy BMC will pass PA inspection? There doesn’t seem to be very clear answers on the threads I could find.

So I finally did it! Took me a long time but it was worth it ! Thanks to Mark from T4Wired for a nice product.

I didn’t even know my 4x4 selector had lights lol

I’ve got all my other connections completed, but I cannot find where the speed sensor wire is. Anyone have any experience with this connection?

Those of you that have changed out the stock head unit to something new, what did you end up going with?

Hey all, fairly new here. Have a 2007 V8 limited. Found this while just browsing and got me thinking about upgrading my suspension. Would this work and would it be a good idea? I do some light offroading/camping.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/calgary/toyota-tundra-suspension-parts-2022-3rd-gen/1709946106

I just bought this 2007 4Runner SR5 with 200,000km about two weeks ago for $11,000 cdn. Got a pre-purchase inspection at Canadian tire Nanaimo and they told me front sway bars links and bushings need replacing, so I take it to a mechanic down island and they just quoted me $4000+ for the following:

Ft Strut Assemblies left and right 2 x rear Shocks Ft Inner sway Bar Bushings And links 2x Ft Lower Ball Joints → Warn 2x Ft Axle Shafts → warn 2 x Ft Axe OutPut Bushing Kits - Loose

Other than the suspension the car is in pretty good shape, but I have no idea how they missed so much during inspection. Will definitely be giving them a call. My question is wtf should I do? My plan was to build it slightly and have a capable SUV for snow and off road. Feeling very defeated and lost with what to do now. Any suggestion on how I can save money or whether any of these repairs can be done by someone with little mechanical experience? Any suggestions on parts? All advice is appreciated, thank you.

I just love the way she sits!

I learned how to prevent the fog lights from coming on at night when you want to run the engine for a little heat, but while staying more or less incognito.

Set the parking brake. Lol