I posted a while back about looking at this 65. I finally am ready to go pick it up. Hopefully some more pics in the morning.

So I had recently changed out my push rod tubes in my 73 Super as well as adjusted my valves.

It starts, idles, and drives on flatland, however, When I went to get on a bridge over a railyard, it wasn't getting anymore acceleration or power. The throttle was on the floor and it just felt like it was actually losing HP. It did not feel like it wanted to power through it.

Additionally, when I am starting off from a traffic light, there is no longer the power and acceleration there once was.

Is this a compression issue? Is this a side affect of the valves being too tight?

I see all the VWs in this group! All the support we give one another. I'm wondering a couple of things after my cruise today.

1. do you see people taking pictures or videos of your car. Either parked or driving .
2. How in the heck do you go about finding these pictures.

I was waiting for a red light and noticed a lady behind me in a big dodge truck with her phone out and giving me the thumbs up. So I of course "HAD" to play with the air ride. Front, back , side to side. Few minutes later, I get next to a young guy in a mustang. He gave me a thumbs up, so again, I "HAD" to play with the air ride. Front, back and drove off with a lean. A block later there were a group of people phones out , thumbs up (and a small out break of slug bug happened) again you guessed it.. I just "HAD" to do it.

I've had people video going down the highway, parking lot pictures, and even had a kid draw it . But I have no idea how to locate or if it is even possible to locate pics like that..

Any ideas? Okay rant over, now back to your regularly scheduled program..

I have an engine that's been sitting outside for quite a while. The oil looks good and under the valves looks immaculate. How do I know if I need to rebuild it or just refresh it with gaskets etc.

During the Airhead Parts Treffen: racks holding BBQ, tent, chairs, tools, picnic basket, and more.

Parked my Sea Blue ‘65 next to a Sea Blue Karmann Ghia during the Airhead Parts Treffen a few years ago.

I'm getting ready to work on my 1600 dual port engine that's been sitting for 10 years IIRC. I don't want to do an all out rebuild, but what can I do to the engine to ensure that it will run well and somewhat reliably? Replace gaskets, change oil, flush out gunk, inspect for cross hatching? Etc.

Also how hard is it to replace lifters.

Looking to get my 67 on the road. Looking for a mech in the Dane county area of Wi.

july 2023

october 2024

i'm curious as what i can find that could give me the best performance and reliability on my 73 1600 dual port with a 34-pict-3 carb setup ( currently running a duralast 009 dissie setup ) i forgot what brand my coil was but it looks like a factory one i had replaced it a while ago by now

i'm looking into maybe upgrading my distributor and coil for more performance

i accidently ordered the trigger shifter knob and had it modified to fit to the regular stick but it has no threads, i managed to tighten it on and its stayin on so we're good

whats funny is, its helped me feel the gears better compared to the other one, used to crunch 2nd really hard and i still sorta do but not as bad it just feels more direct feel wise where i'm at

my beetle died yesterday becuase it was running like crap and was skipping and misfiring and flooded itself

( it had been developing this problem for a little bit by now )

my dad came to help and we found out the distributor stopped making spark from the points

the old distributor had new points and a condenser aswell as a rotor so he swapped them all

only reason i stopped using it, is because the shaft broke and it was unusable by that point but had some parts replaced to keep it going before that happend

he told me that all the parts that were on the replaced one looked cheap and junk

and well? after that it started and ran but it was still floody, the carb was adjusted enough to get it home to do further tuning

he readjusted the carb again and set the points gap aswell as the distributor timing

the car runs fine now hopefully, i have not driven it after he adjusted the points and distributor

i hope this issue is gone but it seemed okay after he changed the parts but the points had a big gap and it had a weak spark and powerband but it ran smooth atleast

( which before it didn't take much to get some speed )

just to note i have a duralast 009 setup with a 34 pict 3 carb on my 73 1600 dualport

https://preview.redd.it/6394qe5lroxd1.jpg?width=1273&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8df9c76bf72a84c8a6d767a1b422b5f5a3d6405e

Bought myself a little gem today. Zenith Blue. Been sitting in a dry barn somewhere between 1986 and 2019. Completely stock. Previous owner who found it in storage changed the floor carpets and the fuel rubber hoses front and back, added a clear fuel filter to inspect whatever's coming out of the fuel tank. Passed technical inspection last week and got its plates back, but fuel filter fills up with brown stuff pretty fast from the tank when running, even though the fuel tank has been taken out and some of its gunk has been cleaned out. Gonna buy a new tank, suspecting rust in the old one. Gonna install a new solid fuel line aswell, and perform a thorough carb cleanup and re-gasketing, come spring. Driver's side door issues: Door itself sags a bit, window crank mechanism is sluggish and hard to operate, and the small triangle shaped front window in the door also is hard to operate. Gonna take that apart as well and replace the necessary parts. Driver side seat is extremely hard to move back and forth.

Apart from that - nothing special, other than whatever wear and tear it received during its 18 year tenure as a daily driver :-)

I have a 1970 Beetle with a 1600cc engine. I just acquired it so I called progressive to have it insured and they said that they can't insure it but would need to go through Hagerty. So I did.

Hagerty said that my vehicle in fair condition is valued at about $6000, at good condition about $12,000 and in perfect condition about $30,000. Does that sounds right to you all? I was a little skeptical about the $30,000 but I see online that restored ones are going for high 20s and even low 30s. Just wanted to get your thoughts on it.

Also, in case anyone is looking, Hagerty charged me $305 for the year for full coverage at 0 deductible and full value of about $10,000 as it's a running project right now.

Hey folks. I got a 1973 bug a few weeks ago now. I’ve been having some trouble getting the R hand running light and the license plate light to work. As I understand, they run on the same circuit. I’ve replaced all fuses in the fuse box. Tried to confirm that the relevant wire is connected to the fuse box and is ran to the engine bay.

I can trace it to underneath the back seat and then lose it into the left side of the chassis. I’ve looked at the grounds for the right tail light and all seems to be good there. My reverse lights are also not working but I am under the impression that might be an issue with the switch. Otherwise, my right back turn signal and brake light works. I’ve replaced both bulbs and still no dice. Any ideas? It does look like the engine was pulled once but they seemed to have attached all the wires back up correctly.

I would love if anyone has some insight. Thanks!

Edit: hello all, Dr dipshit here with an update. Apparently one of the fuses I had just replaced had blown. I must have caused some chaos when installing the new tachometer. Lights are working. Check the fuses first all!