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After i played music and wait for a while it keep doing this weird sound, i dont what is it and how to fix it

For more information, its new and it is a edifier r1855db. Yes, i do put it near my pc, router and modem since my room is small. And i do use jack 3.5mm cable extending because the jack cable was too short (this cable extending is new too)

Also is this normal?

This one is on the bass part (i dont know how to call it), i have checked the passive speaker and its normal none of them, only appear on the active speaker

I'm looking for some small speakers to go on top of my crt monitor. available space i have on top width is 27cm and height about 17cm would like to fit both speakers next to each other, they will need to be shielded also if possible. I have seen the yamaha ms101 but they are way too expensive max id wanna spend is probably like 150 GBP Thankyou

I just bought Edifier G2000 and now thinking about some around 100€ budget subwoofer to go with it so any suggestions what should I buy?

Also If someone want my opinion for going these speakers they sound very good for money if you can get them cheap like I do (39€)

I am just now starting to learn about the world of audio hardware with practically no prior knowledge. Long story short, I had a soundbar with a subwoofer for a long time but through unexpected luck I recently got a set of Edifier R1280T speakers for free. The sound quality is much better with them, but they lack the bass that I'm used to. Can I just buy any old subwoofer and connect it to my computer's CS-Out port and use it in conjunction with these speakers (which are currently connected to the Line-Out port)?

Trying to find info about using them with a subwoofer leads me to a lot of posts saying you can but you have to split signal and lots of other complicated stuff I don't understand, but it also all seems to be about using them with things besides a PC. So I'm at a loss about what I believe is a truly basic question.

Edit: apparently CS-Out is for subwoofer. Post originally, erroneously said SS-Out

Hey, I'm looking to buy the newest version of the Creative pebble speakers v3, mainly for their Bluetooth connection

However I already own the Pebble v2.1 with a subwoofer.

I really like the bass that the subwoofer provides so would it be possible to somehow add a subwoofer to v3 speakers?

Dont know if its worth it, only around 50$ Which is 17$ more than the r19bt (which im planning to buy because of small size and sound better than the pebble plus 2.1 with a budget price too). I need a small size and budget pc loudspeaker, is this a good one for my need? I dont really care about sound quality much, just want something to do the job with some basses in it

I am looking for a 5.1 desktop sound system for my PC. I use headphones when my wife is home but when she is gone I need to play on desktop speakers so I can monitor the dogs. What is everyone using? I am currently using Logitech Z506 that I got used. The range is nothing compared to my Beyerdynamic gaming headset. Considering an upgrade but really can't find but 2 options.

Any Recommendations?

I dont know if the r19bt sound better than the plus since the edifier r19bt got discount price by alot and its a good deal (around 32$ which is 3$ Cheaper than the pebble). I also planning on buying the edifier g2000 because it has small size (which i need my table is only 120cm and i have a 27inches monitor) but its overpriced and “designed for gaming” tag so im not sure if its a good idea to go for the g2000.

Then i checked out the r19bt which has 8.5cm x 17.5cm x 13cm (w.h.d) pretty small, fit my desk perfectly and cheaper. Im thinking of buying it since the pebble out of stock everywhere, but wonder if its better than the g2000 and plus 2.1. Which one to go for?

Edit: i live in vietnam also

I'm wanting to treat myself to some nicer speakers sometime soon. Any recommendations for some nice desktop speakers at or under $500?

I have a modern motherboard with a Realtek 7.1 codec onboard. It's perfectly acceptable to me, and the drivers include an option for balancing audio - it's great in theory, as I can't put my surround speakers in a sane location.

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But I'd like a better solution if possible.

Is there a (free/cheap) automatic room correction tool for Windows 11 that will let me balance the audio better? Or even a good manual one like a mixer with VU meters and a volume knob for each speaker?

EDIT: ID10T error- Solved.......

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Hello all. I have a inexpensive Cyber Acoustics CA-3602FFP 2.1 speakers and Arctis 7 headphones.

I really enjoy the physical volume knob for the speakers, but the bass from my speakers is REALLY high. Even with low volume, the bass is overwhelming.

It's fine with the headphones on, and I KNOW that the issue is that the speakers plug into the headphone dongle which somehow prevents me from adjusting the EQ for the speakers...

I don't want to have to switch audio sources, so I need to use the Arctis passthrough feature, but I ALSO need to find a way to control the EQ on the speakers...

I've tried finding a software solution, but this is not my area of expertise, so I have not had luck. The balance works fine with the headphones on, and the Arctis software has no effect on the speaker balance. I can't disconnect the sub because that's how the speakers are powered. The sub has no physical adjustment on it that I can find either.

Hell, I'll buy new speakers (within reason) as long as I can keep a physical volume knob (keyboard-based is not an option).

I get headaches, and being unable to have sound on without overwhelming bass is driving me nuts!

Any solutions?

Hey,

I just got a pair of Kanto Yu6's and wanted to know if there was any way to have the audio playing from both my Yu6's and Yu2's. The Yu6's are plugged in through an optical audio cord directly into my motherboard io, and the Yu2's are plugged in through a USB cable. The Yu2's audio output is under USB audio DAC, and the Yu6's only play through the Realtek Digital Output. I tried looking online and it said to use the stereo mix in the recording tab to have the audio playing out of multiple devices but to no avail. I just want to be able to use both my Yu6's and Yu2's at the same time for listening to music. Help Please!!!

I live in vietnam and i tried to search for the creative pebble plus 2.1 everywhere but couldnt find out one. Any alternatives and suggestions?

Im planning on buying a headphone soon but not now since i dont usually use headphone. Only loudspeaker. My budget is around 35-50$ or more if needed. I also planning on buying the edifier r1855db since its almost the same price as r1700 and r1280 in my country (around 100$) but dont know if its worth to spend money on it cause i dont really care about sound quality too much and im out of money rn thats why im on budget

Edit: also its better if its wireless, but maybe its hard to find a wireless one in this range. I use it for my pc btw

There used to be a 5.1 option that has RL RR (rear left and right) but that's isn't showing up anymore, how do I get that back?

So I've got a $155 dell gift card to spend to acquire speakers or a soundbar for my PC. The speakers and PC audio sections are very limited. Luckily Dell will price match Amazon. Here are the options I'm looking at, willing to expand budget if necessary.

• Logitech Z625, $160 on Amazon. But I hear a lot of people hating on Logitech speakers.
• Creative Sound BlasterX Katana, $200 on Amazon. Read some mixed reviews.
• Logitech G560 Lightsync, $180 on Amazon.
• Bose Companion 2 Series III, $149. Seem overpriced but okay.
• Creative Speakers Pebble, $28 if everything else is a rip off
• Bose SoundLink Micro Portable Bluetooth Speaker, $99. Not really PC, but I heard these are okay for showers.

I know of the Edifers and Kef Q150s and so on.

Not looking for an expensive sound system. Just something a tad better than what I already have.

The Logitech Z200's. Now they aren't amazing speakers, but they are serviceable and have a nice aesthetic to them matching my rig/monitor/etc.

Though after years of use and blasting it as loud as it can go at times, its seen better days and starting to show signs of issues.

I was looking into the Creative Pebble 3 as I've been hearing a lot of good things about it but it's design is kind of, odd. Not sure they'd look very well with my system.

There is also the bose companion 2 series iii, though not sure about those. I know Bose makes good stereos but I heard mixed things about their standalone speakers.

I was also interested in the Logitech z313's. I've heard a lot of mix responses on this, from they sound great with eh bass to sounding awful with no bass.

At the end of the day though, I just want something not too expensive but better than the Logitech Z200s. Even if it is another Logitech.

Hello! I have an old set of jellyfish speakers & sub that I’d like to adapt to use a different input. The input on them is USB and they have a separate power source. Is there an easy way to accomplish this? Thank you!

An example sound system for PCs I can give for what I'm talking about is the Ampex AX575MS. It's old and outdated though. Do you know any high quality sound systems for PCs like the example, preferably the best, or among the best? Again, if there's no universal best, what is the best in your opinion?

I saw this page:

https://en.creative.com/p/speakers/creative-t100

Scroll down and you can see a big horizontal mention below the bluetooth description that you can buy their wifi receiver that supports aptx and such. Little did I know that the speaker DOES NOT support that, despite there being a full page mention about this 1/2 way in. Not only do I have this speaker, now, but I also have this expensive BT dongle that I can't even use.

What the hell?

Sometimes, but not consistently, sounds play as loud static right after I've booted my PC and switched to it on my USB switch. Changing my audio device from the Windows taskbar menu to something else, then back to my headphones, fixes it. There's a fairly long chain of stuff between my computer and my headphones:

Gaming computer > USB A–B cable > powered USB switch > USB A–C adapter > Apple USB-C–3.5mm dongle > 3.5mm TRRS male–female cable > 3.5mm TRRS male–male cable > headset

I use the USB switch to switch between my work computer and my gaming rig. I only ever notice the problem on my gaming rig, never on my work computer. Both are Windows 10 machines.

I've also only been using this setup for a few months. Before that, I had analog audio running from both the computers through a KVM switch, and didn't have this particular problem, but I did have various other audio quality problems to/from the gaming rig. I had the Apple dongle laying around, and using it fixed my other audio problems, but introduced this one.

I'm suspecting that the problem is something to do with the combination of the USB switch and the Apple dongle. I've kind of been looking for an excuse to get something like a Schiit Fulla anyways, but would that actually fix the problem? I'd hate to spend the money if it didn't.

Hi all! Have been lurking in here for a while and I’m looking to pull the plug on my first setup rather than buying general pc speakers whilst trying to stay below £300

I plan on being sat pretty close to this setup with speakers either side of my monitor. No plans for a sub just yet as I don’t want to upset the neighbours!

My motherboard is a ASUS ROG Strix Z690-F

So far I’m looking at:

Aiyima A07 (Lm4562)

Aiyima DAC A5 pro connected via USB

RCA cables

Banana plug cables? Or general 16awg wire in bulk?

Foam acoustic pads to angle the speakers

Speaker wise for the moment I was thinking something like diamond 9.1 or seeing if I can pick up a set of used Q acoustics. They seem to be a better speaker? and a lot smaller!

Any recommendations would be great Tia

Hello all :)

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I have bought DAC Aiyima A5 Pro to use it along usb (windows) and RCA output (R1700BT), I have followed the steps to install the drivers and rebooted the pc but there is no output sound.

Windows shoes the bar with sound but actually there is no sound from the speakers, any ideas what could this be?

I have also tried headphones output but it does not work.

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Thank you in advance.

So i want to be able to hear my switch and my PC audio at the same time so I can talk to my buddies on discord while playing my switch - all through the same head set. I've managed to be able to hear the switch, but now my microphone output is for some reason also coming through the line in? So now when I press "listen to this device" to be able to hear my switch, I also hear my own voice. Anyway to get my microphone back on the right output while maintaining my switch audio?

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I've already tried updating my drivers.

Hello,

I'm looking to upgrade my PC with high end sound. What speakers, sub, dac, amp etc. do you recommend?

These will purely be for listening and enjoyment, not for a studio setting.

I have a budget around $2000. Thanks!

Hi,

I was cleaning my laptop and messed up my right speaker when I was cleaning it. Now whenever I have the sound on it makes this annoying loud sound. The sound doesn't stop when I plug in my headphones via the aux port.

When I plug in a bluetooth speaker it works fine and the sound coming from the built in speaker stops. I don't want to deal with replacing the built-in speakers, I use this laptop as a desktop pc anyways since the battery also died a while ago.

I am looking for a budget bluetooth stereo speaker that can do the job, I am open to other possible solutions in case I am missing something.

Thanks!

My apologies if this isn't quite the right sub to ask, but I was wondering if anyone had any software or hardware recommendations for ripping CDs. I used Windows Media Player for the longest time, but it's mediocre at best, now I use MusicBee, and it does a lot better job, especially with replay gain and keeping errors to a minimum, but figured I'd ask before I re-rip the other 90% of my collection. On the hardware side, it's just a plain ol CD/DVD drive, nothing special.

So the speakers I have are the Bose companion 2 series 3 (which sound great for me) and this may be an odd question cause I’m new to having actual desk speakers. So I play a decent amount of pc games and whenever I launch a game the speakers will hum slightly (maybe a second) and then a subtle pop and then they sound perfectly fine in the game. I don’t know if that’s normal or not. Also not sure if this is the right subreddit or if it should be in a game subreddit so if I need to post else where I can but I appreciate any comments about this that I may get

I have a PC with Win10, specs don't really matter except for ones I list below - I leave it one 24/7/365 except when a reboot is required, and I listen to streaming audio from SXM all day long - within the two weeks or so I've started having an audio problem where the sound will sputter for about 1/3 - 1/2 of a second, then repeat the sputter every 15-20 seconds - makes listening to anything intolerable, and what's odd is the problem gets worse the longer the PC is running, happens more frequently and the "blurting" sound lasts longer - after rebooting the problem disappears for a day or 2 then returns.

I've gone over everything with a fine tooth comb, updated the Realtek audio drives - there's two of them plus an audio enhancer:

Audio inputs and outputs:

FxSound Speakers (FxSound Audio Enhancer)

Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)

Stereo Mix (Realtek High Definition Audio)

The last one is new, showed up after I updated audio drivers, including another one listed under Network Adapters called "Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller.". I've tried disabling them one by one and rolling back drivers but nothing helps with the audio device noise problem - and I didn't update drivers before this problem started, did it after in an attempt to fix the problem. The sputtering comes out of any external speaker connected to the rear 3.5mm audio line out port or the front headphone line out port, so it's not the speakers that are the problem, it's the sound card. It's almost like some sort of static charge builds up on the audio chip that causes distortion to worsen over time, and rebooting temporarily pulls power from the chip and that clears the static charge. That may not be exactly what's happening, but that's the way it acts - something deteriorates the audio over time, and it occurs from any audio source I'm trying to listen to, be it SXM or a podcast in a browser or from listening to music with MediaMonkey.

I tried disabling the software sound enhancer FxSound and that doesn't change anything either. I wonder whether I damaged the audio chip by overdriving it - one of the podcasts I listen to moved to a different production studio and they had major problems getting their audio levels correct - they were so low even with speakers set to max volume it was hard to hear them speaking, and people complained about it for months until they started using a different podcast service, now everything is fine with their pod's sound levels. But prior to them fixing the issue I installed a Chromium browser extension called "Volume Master" that was theoretically able to boost the audio output level by up to 600%, but in reality it couldn't do more than double the volume, but that was more than sufficient to resolve the low sound levels from that podcast until they fixed it - I used.this extension for at least 6 months:

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/volume-master/jghecgabfgfdldnmbfkhmffcabddioke?hl=en-USsI have no idea how that extension actually works - how it provides more power to the sound output, but suspect it's like overclocking your CPU, which can damage your CPU if it gets too hot. Did I possibly overdrive the audio chip and damage it? If yes, why is the sound fine for the first day or two after a reboot, then it starts having problems? If it was damaged I'd think it would put out sputtering audio all the time. I bought a USB audio adapter in case I did indeed fry my audio chip, tested it on my laptop and it works fine - but due to the complexity of my PC/monitor/external speaker wiring (with several splitters to run audio to other rooms in my house), I basically have to disassemble the entire desktop to access the rear panel, which of course is a royal PITA, made worse by me stupidly installing a bunch of strain relief ties for various cables on the back of the desk's bookshelf system that limits how much cable I have to work with, so I can't just pull the PC chassis forward and spin it around to get to the back, I have to unplug EVERYTHING - then plug the short cables back in using a mirror once the chassis is back in place - some cables don't have enough slack to plug them in even when the chassis is only rotated 90 degrees. So replacing the existing rear 3.5mm port with the new USB audio adapter is not a simple job, and I can't plug it into one of the front USB ports because the rat's nest of 3.5mm audio cables currently hidden behind my monitor would clutter up the desk to the point where I'd constantly be accidentally bumping into the cables and disconnecting some - that's a non-starter, the USB port I use must be in the back.

Anyone have any ideas about what I may have done to my audio chip, meaning did I describe this correctly and did fry the chip, so I have no choice but to disconnect everything to install the new USB audio adapter in the rear?