What stock axles will work with this setup ?

Hey y’all, first time ever buying a motor I plan to build but I had a couple of questions on one I found

It’s a K24A2, its got the rbb-2 heads and came out of a 07 TSX. I was wondering if the rbb-2 had the 3 lobe cams if 151,000 miles is an issue as well as any other advice or things I should look out for when going to look at the motor

I can’t find a reliable number for the torque on connecting rod bolts online. I’ve got a K24A and I picked up some brand new OEM rod bolts. If someone can pull the number for the service manual that would be great.

Whats the best k20 series motor for boost asides from the A2 (theyre a bit pricey rn), without needing to swap to low compression pistons? Wanting to get it to around 300-350 hp. So far im leaning towards the a3 or the z3, though I believe the z3 would need lower compression pistons. So, best budget k20 motor for boost?

I Got a K24 A8 a while ago from an 08 accord. It kind of difficult to find any stats or information about the A8 specifically. I am hoping someone here could tell me if the engine is any good for around the 230 NA power mark.

What transmission adapters are there for the k24a3 or what transmission could I hook up to it while keeping my integra front wheel drive

I finished the swap but it drives terrible. im getting mixed readings from the tps and it has a limiter around 4k. could this be the tps or is this tune related. stock ebay turbo k24

I got a K24A that i’m currently building to swap into my TSX. My engine is high mileage and I can definitely feel that at higher speeds (~100+) it struggles more than it should. Original plan with this new build was to go turbo, but some careful consideration has me leaning towards NA. Mainly 1) money and 2) it’s still FWD and i’m more track oriented than I am for straight line speed.

My current thought process is 88mm pistons, ~12.5:1 CR, DC Elite 3.5 cams (high duration), super tech valve kit obviously, Type S oil pump, 750cc injectors with E85 (gotta love Iowa), catless header, and possibly also getting ITBs later on, otherwise sticking with a RBC intake.

Being i’m boring out to 88mm, will a k20 head be less usable being a 86mm bore? I know there are advantages to having the smaller bore head but only seen discussions involving stock bore K24s

Anyways, i’m guestimating that this setup should get me to 280whp, but what are your guy’s thoughts? And remember, being track car i’m okay with sacrificing low end torque as I shouldn’t be below 4k rpm all that much other than cruising on highways

Budget swapping my EG after selling my 10th gen type r. Just looking for bolt ons for now, I owned a rsx so i’m knowledgeable.. from my understanding should have no issues with what i’m building. K24A2 w Accord 5 speed, motor and trans from 2003. Now the ECU, does it matter? RSX vs Element Hondata ecus. For my setup, what is best? I understand i’m going with a 5 speed non lsd transmission but motor and transmission together come out to less than $1300. Also what harness would be best?

Silly question, I know it is, bear with me… Will stock clutch for the rx8 work with pmc plate and flywheel adapter? I found a stock clutch kit on Amazon for 80 and it would really help keeping the costs down for my swap as it’s on a budget and I just recently got a haltech for it so I’m trying to get it going a bit faster

Attached is my current swap list for my EF. Am I missing anything? The engine itself is complete and freshly rebuilt. Stock rsx prd ecu, stock rsx type s engine harness, and six speed trans.

Any tips on how to reduce the cost would be helpful as well (anything I should change on this list). This is my first time swapping!

Thank you!

Hey guys, I got a built k20/24. Head is a hand ported JDM k20a It has DC4 cams, 12.5:1 compression, Manley rods, supertech valve train obviously to go with the cams. My question here is about a plenum spacer to go onto my Skunk 2 ultra series. Car currently is putting down 279whp. Would it benefit from a spacer ? Stopped making power around 8600 rpm and went flat, and I know these cams have more potential so I’m assuming it could help.

I’m swapping a k20a2 motor out of an 02 RSX, into my 1990 EF hatch. The motor itself is complete. Virgin harness and prb ecu.

I’m a little confused as to what I should do when tackling the wiring. Would it be best to use the stock rsx harness? And how would I go about mating everything together if so?

My car was swapped with a b16 prior to this decision. But, the poor thing gave out 😂

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks!

I’m looking to build a Miata as a project this summer and swapping the k24 from my 2004 Acura into it and eventually boost it. the goal is 350-400 horsepower. I’ve watched videos, tutorials, read up on threads surrounding Miata specific builds, yet still have a few questions. My main concern is the drive train and transmission. I want this build to be reliable enough to have fun at the track every once in a while, while still being able to hit the streets and cruise.

1: what transmission and rear diff would be able to reliably handle 300+ horsepower ? If I don’t turbo it, is stock trans and diff reliable

2: how much power can the k24a2 reliably make without cracking it open and building the internals

3: for those who have done this swap before, how bad is the shake/rattle and how do I minimize it

Any other tips and advice would be greatly appreciated. I don’t want to start this project until I have a better understanding of what all I’m Getting myself into. Money is not much of an issue and I understand that this build will be very expensive

Hey all. I’m looking for some advice on boost. I picked up a JDM K24A for a RWD swap I’m working on. It’s an RAA block with RBB-1 head which from what I can find means 11:1 compression.

I’m looking to make 350-400 hp boosted for a daily driver car. I’m upgrading to 50 degree cam gear and DC 2.2 cams and dual springs in addition to type s oil pump. I’d like to leave the rotating assembly stock. Will the original pistons be an issue at 11:1 on 91 pump gas? Any recs on turbo size? I’d like to use a comp oil less turbo for simplicities sake if possible.

I’d certainly choose reliability over power at the end of the day, so if I’m on the bottom end of that HP range, but reliably, I’m not upset. 350 is more than enough to have fun in a 2200lb car. All advice is appreciated

I was change the spark plugs on my JDM K20a. The third plug was covered in oil. The motor runs fine it doesn’t misfire or blow smoke. Do you thinks it’s the third spark plug seal which will need replacing or something else???

The title really says it all. I'm wanting to do a Frankenstein build (K24 engine block and a K20 engine head). But I'm not sure where to buy half an engine. Any tips?

Looking at getting some work done to my JDM K24A High Performance, and wanna do a valve adjustment, and was gonna regasket the valve cover and such, so figured if I'm in that deep, may as well do the timing chains (I'm at 160k)

So I did some searching, and just want to make sure I'm not missing anything, hopefully someone can help.

Chain Guide 1 - 14520-PPA-003 Chain Guide 2 - 14530-PPA-003 Chain Guide 3 - 14540-PRB-A01 Timing Chain - 14401-PPA-004 Tensioner Assembly - 14510-PRB-A01 VTC Sprocket - 14310-RBB-003 Sprocket - 14210-PRB-A00 Chain Case O-Ring - 91302-PNA-004 Solenoid O-Ring - 91333-PNC-006 Spool Valve Filter - 15815-RAA-A02 Front Crank Seal - 91212-PNC-003

I feel like I'm missing some gaskets or something, and is it recommended to replace the Sprockets?? I'm not burning oil, but oil is disappearing, just not sure where lol.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Should the colored links on the timing chain line back up with the cam and crank marks after rotating a few times?

Fighting to get it started and wondering if I keep messing up timing somehow. Thanks.

I picked up a z3 short block with 240k miles and I started tearing it down until I noticed this gouge on one of the pistons. Should I replace the piston or is it still usable if filed down to smooth it out. I’m currently doing a full rebuild so any help would be appreciated. The motor will not see any boost but will be FBO in my 8th gen si

I have a 1997 Honda accord 2 door and I have a k20z3 engine with 200,000 miles on it. I haven’t really messed with the engine yet because I don’t know where I should start on it and what I should upgrade or replace on it. I am eventually gonna put a turbo kit onto it and want it to make at some where in the 400-600hp range. Any advice?

Is there any tips or tricks to better seal the spool valve on the side of the head? I am just covering the side of my engine with oil. Putting on a new strainer gasket today but are you doing anything else like Hondabond or something?

I have a 2011 honda accord with a k24z3 and 5 speed manual trans that currently pops out of 5th gear. I'm looking for info on what trans can just bolt in without any Xtra work. Such as the mounting points and everything else