I have a honda civic lx 1997 with a blown engine I got from a friend. Frame is rust free and he replaced a lot of things(about 3500 in just part in the last few years). I wanted to know what would the best route to go for power? I am working with a 20-25k usd budget with labor.

Hello, I’m swapping a k24a rbb into a eg civic. I was wondering if anyone knows a way to keep the ac condenser but remove the power steering pump?

Hi, I have a 1987 Honda Integra (1st gen with popup headlights) and plan to do a K-Swap. I have sourced a K20A3 complete engine with an automatic gearbox. (I know A3 is the trash version but in my case it is the cheaper option as well as a decent upgrade from 75bhp to 160bhp). My question is I need a manual gearbox. I have sourced a Honda Accord 5 Speed gearbox that also came with a K20A, and I wanna know if I need to do anything with the ECU. Should I be able to reflash and use it or do I need a different ECU that came with a Manual engine? Also anything else I should know.

TIA

Anyone else ran banjo bolts for coolant line and if so where did you guys tap into for coolant lines?

Hello, so here's the deal, a friend of mine bet a chunk of money with a friend of his that he would finish his K20A2 swapped RWD EJ Civic by the end of the year. He wanted to buy the Skunk2 ITB's but unfortunately they will take too long to arrive. His budget is around ~3.5k$. What ITB's setups would you recommend that would arrive in a maximum of 20 days? (to an european country)

Cheers

Hello I wanted to get some information if it matters what motor I go with on my 2006 civic si it’s my daily for work so I don’t care about performance wise. In my area it’s easier finding jdm motors than the k24a2 with low miles TIA!

So i’m a 17 year old who works at caddilac, I kinda got no bills to pay or expenses, So I decided i’m gonna build a k series but i’m not sure what ones i should look into, I have a decent budget snd trying to complete this over winter time, i wanna be pushing a realistic amount of power to have some fun for not a crazy amount, any of yall got recommendations?

So trying to fix my friends 11 accord. Originally was a noisy VTC actuator. No cel just annoyingly loud. But while doing that, found chain tensioner with missing teeth. Got a new one, replaced put everything back together. Sounds and runs better then before but p0341 and traction control light on and won't turn off.
Heeeeelp lol was told maybe to try taking cam sensors and vvt solenoid off my k20 to test each one to see if it's any of those.
What do i do lol Thank you!

Hey everyone, im having some issues with my k24. Recently shuddered and came to a stop on the highway the other day. Still cranks but wont start.

First guess was maybe injectors or spark plugs but they seem to be all good. Next guess was cam sensors but not sure if theres a way to test those. So unsure 🫤. Fuel is getting in and out of the injectors fine and there was spark when i multi metered the plugs.

My second guess would be it needs to be tuned properly?! Its got a haltech1500 elite ecu in it and from the little playjng around ive done with the nexus nsp apps i cant seem to find an issue?

Everything seems to be working fine and most of the parts are near new. Could i be correct about it needing a tune or could it be something else? Like i said it cranks but just wont turn over and start.

Hey Everyone I recently bought a crv with the k24a1 engine and auto trans. I was looking to see if I could do simple bolts ons and modifications to the engine. Just wanted advice from what other people have done or what I should consider doing. My budget isnt super high but im willing to spend for at least the mid range. Also its 4wd if that makes any difference with the modifications. thanks

Wanting a FUN DAILY DRIVER 2006 Acura TSX Needing recommendations for the following -72mm Intake manifold -72mm throttle body -Cold air intake -Other bolt on recommendations Already has cat-back

Heard a lot about Hondata and stand-alone ecu's is this a good idea, are they hard to figure out, or can you easily push your engine past its limits with it? Is it easy to use? Would a Cobb access port do the same thing? Should I just take it to a tuner once l'm done with bolt ons? Is 300-320 whp unrealistic with a stock bottom end? Should I look at a set of cams or are the factory vtec cams fine? Heard a lot about k20 head swap is it worth it for what I'm wanting? If you have any general advice for me feel free to drop whatever ya got in the comments.

Has anyone swapped a uk (not sure if US version is diffferent I have the uk version) ep3 engine harness onto a k24a engine?

Hi, I am considering building a K24A1 turbo because I’ve always wanted to. This post in regards to the tranny’s (USDM, JDM, and Canadian).

I have a 05 CRV that I have had for 12 years and I love it. I just rebuilt the tranny this year because it’s Canadian. I have found some affordable listings for K24a1 blocks and heads and am considering the build again. - But I don’t want to end up with a build that requires a specific transmission. I plan on putting a manual AWD crv tranny.

How can I tell if the block will fit JDM or USDM vs Canadian? From what I experienced this year, the bolt patterns are different.

I have a k20 that is burning and leaking oil that is gonna cost around 1500 to repair it has 170,000 miles and I would like to turbo it but I wasn’t sure if I should get a new motor for a cheaper price with less miles or just upgrade this one?

Could any one explain why the PRB manifold has this open port area is it for like another type of servicing or something or could there be a turbo application or something?

https://preview.redd.it/8lnaku1o20wd1.jpg?width=1946&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1bd001c4a961fed41edafb2503d5152754b45b80

Should i trust this website? https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/ I hear some gud reviews and some awful reviews, kinda got me scared to trust them, im trying to build a k24a high comp motor and i need guides and chain and tensioner. should i trust them??

I have a 04 RSX chassis. It has the 04 fuel tank but because how things worked with parts, it has a 06 RSX type s sending unit. The fuel pump and such works fine, however, the fuel gauge doesn't read accurate. The gauge cluster has been re-calibrated already. The correct pins in the connector are getting battery voltage.

Should I replace it with a 06 RSX sending unit? Or replace it with a 04 RSX sending unit?

Hey guys! Quick question. Has anyone have experience with hondata customer service and warranty service? I think I have a bad ECU out of the box. I sent it to them with the form and it said they may have to charge more for repairs. I'm assuming only if isn't under warranty. But just curious is anyone has good or bad experiences with them?

Hi guys, I've tried using the CivInfo forums to no avail when it comes to recommendations about my rebuild.

Here's the current spec:

K20Z4 Head K24A8 Block Drag Cartel 3.2 Cams ARP Headstuts Porter RRC inlet manifold 1000CC injectors (don't know what brand they are) K-Tuned fuel rail 3" custom single exit exhaust + big bore exhaust manifold (Copy of Toda) Uprated radiator (ProAlloy?) Hybrid Racing Intake (gets fed cold air at all times as it's been routed to one of the foglights in the front bumper.

I'm not 100% sure what fuel pump is used but as far as I know, it ain't stock. Not sure what oil pump has been used, whether it's the OEM or been updated but I would guess one from a JDM 8th Gen Type R has been used.

Eagle Rods & CP Pistons were used in the original build.

The bottom end was built by a company called Laskey Racing in the US, my paperwork also states that we have a very common 0.5mm overbore as well.

The engine currently burns oil heavily, I've now found oil in the coolant as well (due to it overheating probably before I changed my waterpump due to an overheating issue), so I will be rebuilding shortly.

This build made 260whp at a hub Dyno after tuning.

Any tips on how to improve the build going forward will be appreciated!

All 4 cylinder walls look like this and each one has 160 psi compression and goes up with wet test to 190 psi, runs rough and sounds like it rattles (no smoke from exhaust)

Like the title says, do I need this?

K24A on standalone

No power steering

No brake booster

No AC

No boost

No EPA junk

I’ve just rebuilt a K24Z3 with a K20Z3 head.

What is the break in process like after a rebuild?

How frequently should I change the fluids and to what RPM should I get it up to or stay under?