I’m looking for a b series engine preferably a jdm engine from Japan dose anyone know how and where I can get my hands on one?

Fan turns on when I turn it to ignition even when the engine b20b I replaced my thermostat inside the housing and I only took the housing off and the ground and switch I also replaced all the big hoses in the coolant system. After I finished everything and bled the coolant system I noticed the fan stays on as soon as im in the ignition when turning the key.

Hey guys, just picked up a b18c1 with an si trans to swap into my 98 civic hatch. I was doing some research but couldn't come up with a solid answer and figured you guys knew best. I know that I should source a crv p7j ac bracket to keep my ac (which looks pretty close to my b18c1 p72 bracket) For power steering I've heard that I should use a b18c1 bracket with my stock pump, and then find a longer belt. What's your guys experience? I would like to keep my original 6th gen civic ps pump and buy whatever bracket would work / belt.

Anyone Know the differences between a B16 and a b18 crankshaft ? What are the signs to tell one from the other ?

What is the most powerful stock B series? Some places/people say it is the b18c from the jdm Itr and others say b18c5 from the usdm Itr? Which is it?

lookin at b18s for my 97 civic sedan aside from 18a1 comin from the integra rs non vtec an 1.8 is it different from the 18c1 im lookin to either do a stroker kit orrr turbo

I have em1 project car that I am going to have a b18c in it that I want to build it out to be a oem+/street car and I want to do it right. I am unfamiliar with b series and was wondering if any of you guys have brands you like to use that make high quality reliable performance parts, like a ktuned for b series. Thank you

Project LSV

I have a 1997 CRV B20B4. ICM went out in the OEM distributor about 8 months ago so I replaced it and that fixed it. Just last week, the same issue happened again. This time I decided to buy a new distributor from rock auto however when I put it on the car would crank and start, but idle terribly like it was misfiring all cylinders or something. Also put new NGK plug wires and spark plugs. The distributor I purchased is the one from Autoline, TEC type. Part number: D8038N

Not sure if this is the issue, but when I disconnected the distributor’s harness plug one of the inner white plastic pieces that go over the inner pins came out of the harness socket. I put it back in but I’m not 100% sure it’s in the right way, though I can reconnect the plug to the harness so I suppose it is?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.

Bought these about a month ago, I wound up going for bigger injectors than these. I’m looking for around $400

What could cause my car to run rich and start trying to stall and die at idle? It’s only when warm but My rpm’s will go to almost as low as 400 and my afr gauge will read super rich like 9. I have a new battery, dizzy, ecu. And plug wires are fine

Hello everyone. I just have a quick question. If I tuned my hatch on a GSR turbo swap with a B16 trans which made 280 HP for being bone stock nothing to special. If I swapped that B16 trans for a GSR trans recently, do I need a retune? From what I'm hearing because we switched the trans to a GSR the car should be somewhere right now around 350-306 HP. When I punch it it feels quicker that's why I'm wondering if I should even bother tuning? I do feel the power difference.

is there any real difference in the motors besides one being in the Honda Itr and one in the Acura Itr? Thanks

Hey y’all was wondering if anyone know if eBay half radiators are worth running plan on going lsv turbo was planning on running this is it worth it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/12653342515...mis&media=COPY

I'm completely new to hondas, switching from a subaru wrx but I've always loved hondas so I picked up this integra recently. It has a relatively fresh b20b swap (confirmed) and is on a p28 or p somethin' chip tune. Kinda forgot what number the guy said.

I want to go on a light boost route, nothing too crazy but I've ALWAYS loved boosted cars and most likely would eventually do the same to this. Is the b20b good with boost? I definitely want to build the motor to handle it, I'm not planning out on cheaping out too much except for the turbo kit.

BTW: I will be fixing up the car and all the small issues including paint before even thinking about buying anything performance related. But I've wondered what to do when I get to that point, and i'm not finding many definitive answers online on whats a good build route. Some people say not at all because b20b blocks suck at handling it but then on the other hand I see that with sleeved blocks or a block guard and a proper tune at low boost it'll be fine.

I'm throwing a b series from a 2001 accord in a 68' Austin. Most conversions use a manual. I would love to do that, but I have this one laying around. Would I need the TCM and harness to make it work? I know it's a long shot to do but if anyone has in depth information on how to go about this I would seriously appreciate it.

Just got a b20v eg hatch from a friend for free, but the car needs to be gassed at all times for it to be on/running if not it dies, but runs fine when distance driving without stopping,but right when you come to a complete stop car dies, the car is on e85 btw. He says it might need a retune but idk anyone ever dealt with this or has any solutions please help.

I recently bought a B20B8 swapped integra, and the engine redlines at 6800, but from what i can see the b20b8 should go beyond that stock, unless i'm mistaken. The rest of the swap seems pretty amateur, can position sensor had widest twisted together, the entire heater is gone, with the hose left dangling, no PS or AC, and a dead cylinder. I'm asking because i'm looking into swapping this with yet another engine, and wondering if i should go b18 or stick with a b20

I bought an Integra with a b20b 2 years ago with no ac or power steering. Originally I didn’t care about it but driving in the Texas heat is no joke. Recently heard of electric compressors and have no idea if it’s worth it. Not concerned about losing power with a belt driven just not looking to go thru the hassle of finding b20b parts. Car is not daily and only drive on the weekends when I can. Any help or advice is appreciated.

I have a 89' honda crx with a b18b1 swapped from a 92' integra. I recently finnished a rebuild and when car at temp and clutch in it stalls. I replaced IACV, fuel filter x2, put in seafoam x2. Distributor and other spark components at 400kms. Engine timed correctly and batt/alternator replaced 200kms. Engine idles 750rpm and runs correctly when cold but at temp if clutch in rpms drop to 500 and if i give gas it drops to stall or nearly does, unless i hold gas lightly it will drop for a few secs then rev back up correctly.

If i wanted to run OS pistons and that only i would just need the OS pistons themselves and the OS rings right? Yes ik the sleeve would need to be bored too, but nun else would need to change like bearings or gaskets?

Hi all I'm going to be changing the piston rings on my b18c1 soon. My question is should I change my pistons and Rods while my engine is apart? If I was to change the pistons and rods what should I consider ? And any idea on what parts I should be looking at buying? Is it possible to increase the power by using a certain piston size? I honestly don't have a clue where to start I've never gotten a job like this done so any tips, opinions and ideas are welcome.