What’s going on guys. I have a quick question and just trynna figure out what’s up. I have LS Vtec turbo set up on my 95 EG sedan. The speed sensor doesn’t work, I’ve changed speed sensors , even changed clusters ( I have an EM1 Si cluster). When I tried putting on an OEM EG Cluster it still don’t work. Any idea what can be causing this? But that cluster works on the other EG I have. Any idea ? Please let me know!

Hello everyone, so I recently decided to paint my b series valve cover. The only holes that I covered up was where the oil cap goes and the valve cover breather. I left the spark plugs holes, and the other ones open. Does it matter if I didn’t cover the other ones? Can someone let me know. I seen on some forums that it doesn’t matter. I just want to be sure , please let me know.

I am building a B20V engine. Currently running on:

• B20B Stock Block (Bored to 85mm)
• B16B Head

With B16A Exhaust Cam (Got Scammed)

• 85mm Toda Pistons

• Eagle Conrods

• ARP Head Studs

• CNC Block Guard

• B16B Intake Manifold and Throttle Body

• K20 Injectors

• AEM Fuel Rail

• Mugen 4-2-1 Extractor

Looking for inputs on what to change or improve on. Thanks in advance!

Here’s the cars details -1989 civic hatch -b20b4 engine -ls transmission -p75 obd1 ecu -rywire budget harness with chassis adapter -iacv delete -no knock sensor -no intake arm atm and vacuum port next to map is plugged

If any other info is needed let me know.

We got the car running the other week but it just stays stuck in limp mode. No check engine light or codes, runs and sounds good. I’m at a loss at what it could be and it’s driving me crazy. Any ideas would be much appreciated

I’ve had this set up for almost 3 years now . My car is always garaged and hardly driven. It’s on e85 bt as of recently it’s been running extremely lean . Any idea what could be causing this ? Weather conditions are always fair . I live in California .

I have a B16A that was swapped into an EG before I bought it. It had been stuttering every once in a while and the check engine light would come on but most of the time it ran fine. Recently after an oil change it started running rough and the check engine light is on continuously.

Most importantly the rev limiter has dropped to something like 4000 rpm (I don’t have a tach) and it’s running super rich and back-firing.

I’ve disconnected the battery, changed the fuel filter, the spark plugs, and the oil again. It’s still running like shit and the check engine light is on constantly.

A mechanic buddy tried to pull the codes but couldn’t get the OBD1 to talk to his machine. We tried to do the jump wire flash code thing but that didn’t work either.

I don’t want to start throwing random parts at it, especially if it’s seriously hurt. It starts every time, but idles high, and again, hits the rev limiter really early.

Any suggestions at all would be appreciated.

EDIT: if anyone searches for a similar issue and finds this post, it appears to be the ECU, however finding a 30 year old ECU has proven to be difficult.

So after further inspection of my gsr crank seems as though the journals are fine , but the ends of the crank have a bit of scoring on them , and also this counterweigh looks like its been sanded or been scraping on something

Is this crank still good to use or is it trash? Need help asap so i can proceed

So i got some pistons rods and crank which i was told were out of a b16b , will they fit into a b18c block? If not what are my alternatives? Any help would be appreciated

Is the shock tower sensor needed on a b series swapped ek

I need to change the bearings in my b16 transmission. Im saving up for the parts and im looking at a difference of a few hundred dollars between the ones on ebay versus synchrotech. Im tempted to buy these no name bearings to get going sooner (running a d15b8 that burns oil atm slow and annoying) but im not trying to be a guinea pig and wreck my precious with inferior parts.

So anyone here have luck with these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/125864049468?mkevt=1&plmtId=1110700101&mesgId=3014&mkpid=0&emsid=enull.m161719.l174380&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid&bu=44611038782&trkId=58f05b5c-2cb5-3ae2-b213-43c854586bfa&cnvId=29f8e0f4-fcbc-4b3b-8055-f5fe3c8c9490&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20241111112419&segname&recoId=125864049468&recoPos=1

I’m looking for a b series engine preferably a jdm engine from Japan dose anyone know how and where I can get my hands on one?

Fan turns on when I turn it to ignition even when the engine b20b I replaced my thermostat inside the housing and I only took the housing off and the ground and switch I also replaced all the big hoses in the coolant system. After I finished everything and bled the coolant system I noticed the fan stays on as soon as im in the ignition when turning the key.

Hey guys, just picked up a b18c1 with an si trans to swap into my 98 civic hatch. I was doing some research but couldn't come up with a solid answer and figured you guys knew best. I know that I should source a crv p7j ac bracket to keep my ac (which looks pretty close to my b18c1 p72 bracket) For power steering I've heard that I should use a b18c1 bracket with my stock pump, and then find a longer belt. What's your guys experience? I would like to keep my original 6th gen civic ps pump and buy whatever bracket would work / belt.

Anyone Know the differences between a B16 and a b18 crankshaft ? What are the signs to tell one from the other ?

What is the most powerful stock B series? Some places/people say it is the b18c from the jdm Itr and others say b18c5 from the usdm Itr? Which is it?

lookin at b18s for my 97 civic sedan aside from 18a1 comin from the integra rs non vtec an 1.8 is it different from the 18c1 im lookin to either do a stroker kit orrr turbo

I have em1 project car that I am going to have a b18c in it that I want to build it out to be a oem+/street car and I want to do it right. I am unfamiliar with b series and was wondering if any of you guys have brands you like to use that make high quality reliable performance parts, like a ktuned for b series. Thank you

Project LSV

I have a 1997 CRV B20B4. ICM went out in the OEM distributor about 8 months ago so I replaced it and that fixed it. Just last week, the same issue happened again. This time I decided to buy a new distributor from rock auto however when I put it on the car would crank and start, but idle terribly like it was misfiring all cylinders or something. Also put new NGK plug wires and spark plugs. The distributor I purchased is the one from Autoline, TEC type. Part number: D8038N

Not sure if this is the issue, but when I disconnected the distributor’s harness plug one of the inner white plastic pieces that go over the inner pins came out of the harness socket. I put it back in but I’m not 100% sure it’s in the right way, though I can reconnect the plug to the harness so I suppose it is?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.

Bought these about a month ago, I wound up going for bigger injectors than these. I’m looking for around $400

What could cause my car to run rich and start trying to stall and die at idle? It’s only when warm but My rpm’s will go to almost as low as 400 and my afr gauge will read super rich like 9. I have a new battery, dizzy, ecu. And plug wires are fine