I have a newly acquired 2015 Dodge Charger R/T with 100k miles that appears to be in decent shape and am interested in learning about mechanical work and making repairs/modifications on my own vehicle.

I have above average tool experience but essentially zero mechanical experience. For further context I'm currently wanting to check my spark plugs, intake manifold, fuel injectors, and other components that don't involve going too deep into the engine. But further down the road I may want to upgrade or replace internal engine components. And a HUGE maybe on working towards adding boost.

Is this a good value for a novice? Or way too much?

I got a new key fob to replace the old broken one, the new one is uncut but I was able to program it to the car and the buttons work. However the old key that is cut is unable to start the car but can turn the car on. Everything worked fine before I got the new key programmed.

Does anybody know of a solution for this issue? I’m having the new key cut today and I’m going to see if I can do anything else with it

My car revs fluctuate with the cold engine. I have a Bmw 318i 2008 (N43b20a). What might be the problem? Could it be a vacuum leak? Where I should start looking?

Car is currently at the mechanic but patience is not a virtue or mine. While driving it earlier to work I noticed steam coming from the radiator but my engine appeared to not be overheating immediately pulled over and noticed that my coolant was somehow bone dry and what appears to maybe be oil coating my alternator belt other parts. Waited a bit for the engine to cool down and applied coolant only to notice it completely pouring out of the radiator. As well while waiting for the tow truck my car battery ended up dying and would only start with a jumper pack. Assuming the worst that my engine is dead or a head gasket but could it possibly also just be as simple as a busted radiator and belt?

Is it like a big block 4 or did they slap a Lil kia engine in and call it a day?

How much roughly will this set me back? I’ve not bought the car yet, but trying to work out whether it’s worth it.

Took my 2017 Infiniti QX70 to be serviced by a Jiffy Lube. Once the work was done the engine light, no key and AWD light were on. The car would drive correctly and would change gears. A U0101 code was popping up in the scanner. What could they have done? Update took the car to the dealership and they had it for a week and changed the vale body.

Car is a 2022 mazda cx-3 akari (4 cyl 2.0L). About 45000km, I am the only owner, bought brand new, serviced regularly, never had any problems with the car except tyre pressure system warnings and 2 tyre issues (1 patch repair, and 1 tyre replacement last year). In the last 2 years, the alarm has gone off at least 12 times. The first thing I do is go and do the pressure at a service station, and then if it alarms again I will go to a mechanic - this has been working, it is unequal pressure (except those two times), though I can't get a read on pressures while controlling the hose myself, to know the psi variance.

Yesterday I had my car serviced at the mazda centre. They have on the invoice that tyre pressures were checked and tyres rotated. Today the alarm activated so I went to a mechanic. Luckily, it was only pressure... however one tyre was 42 psi, two tyres were 36 psi, and one tyre was 32 psi. About 6 weeks ago I set them all 44 psi after the system activated while I had a lot in my car (this has happened before and the mechanic told me to increase pressure).

I am going to call mazda on Monday to ask some questions and have a chat because it was suggested that maybe they didn't check, but maybe they did and something else went wrong. So I am wondering a few things:

1. How could the pressures end up so different like this?

2. Does it sound like there could be an issue with the sensor system OR my car/tyres elsewhere for it to alarm this many times? Or is that normal for some cars, driving styles, whatever?

3. Is there anything else I should be asking them about or exploring? I am trying to understand more about cars as I get older and look after my car so appreciate any tips.

Thank you :)

For starters: I drive a 2016 Chevy traverse.

I've noticed lately that when I'm stopped at a red light/ stop sign and I start moving again, there's a popping (only word I know to describe it) coming from the back of the car. It's like small thuds when accelerating. This only happens when I start moving again or I'm driving very slow like in a residential area/parking lot.

I got new tires at Walmart and asked the mechanic if he knew what that could be and he said he didn't hear it when driving the car so he couldn't explain it.

Couple of days ago my Mercedes gl420 2009, engine om629 bended on front left side and I have found a leak using soap-water test. It was leaking even more but after rising and lowering car couple of times it seems to leak less. Why could that be? Do I have to replace the whole strut or just airbag? Thank you

Forget which code exactly but one of those two, whatever one is for the o2 sensor in bank 2 or something.

But I got the code to go away twice with cataclean and stayed gone a while each time, it's back again and not gonna do a 3rd round of cataclean.

If the engine light goes away on its own and comes back again does that mean anything? It's been on a few days but today for a few hours it went away before coming back again.

If the light goes away, is it likely during that time the problem is not happening and sensors are functioning properly?

I bought used 2013 ford f150, the monitor for the reverse camera has been out since I got it. It just turns blue for a few seconds. The temperature dropped below freezing the other day and the camera worked. As it warmed up it went back to going blue. Any ideas on possible causes.

2011 Scion xB

5k oil changes since 92k. Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W and 0W seasonally

Thanks to anyone who helps

Hey all.

Working on my cousin's 2001 Lincoln town car with the 4.6v. he bought it as a beater and started getting some overheating issues and coolant leaks.

I pressurized the system. Found a heater core hose leaking from where the hose clamp hasld rubbed through. Replaced that piece of hose. Pressure test now held. Filled it with coolant. (Didn't have time to bleed. Hack repair I know). And sent him on his way.

He said it was fine for a few days but then it started getting hot again. He said after a few drives it appeared to be pouring coolant.

So I look at it today. First thing I did was go to bleed it. It drank nearly 2 gallons of coolant... So it definitely had dropped alot of it's own.

After bleeding it with a no spill funnel. (Until the coolant started boiling and coming back up the funnel). We ran it and I monitored the temps. Fans kicked on at 220 and stayed on as the car slowly rised to 230 degrees and then up to 233. We shut it down.

The best thing I can guess is. Their is no leak until the car overheated and then it spews coolant. I imagine it should be sitting around 200-210 as most cars that I am familiar with do.

Since it kept increasing once the fans were on for several minutes and never cooled down. I have to think it's a low flow of coolant situation. Which makes me think water pump.

Car was in a front end collision and the radiator was not replaced... But it was driven that way fine for quite some time before this happened.

Let me know y'all's thoughts.

2017 mx5 rf gt 2.0 l i4 skyacyive ….Hey so raking my brains trying to find anything on where it is located to start online just says under the throttle body which if I am not mistaken the alternator sits directly below the throttle body on the nd just a little help and photos or video if you can Now the second thing I can’t find the correct gasket for it I have found like 7 different style of gaskets and notta. Do I also need a housing gasket or do I just say screw it and rtv everything. The only reason we are doing it is because occasionally it will increase temps to 210-230 at idle and hold steady till i get going and the oe ones I guess had problems this problem started after topping off the reservoir with water. Anyways long winded I know but as they say when in doubt ask reddit

I’m currently shopping for a used small/med SUV. This is under the hood of a ‘21 Nissan Rogue Platinum w 22k miles on it how does it Look to the professionals? Anything I should be concerned about?

Hey all, I'm in Ohio and my current car (2006 Subaru Impreza) is rusting to pieces, I'm constantly fighting it and I'm so, so tired of it. It's to the point now that it's essentially unfixable and I'm getting rid of a car that only has 125k miles solely due to the rust. I did also figure out the car spent its life before I owned it in Buffalo, NY.

I never want to deal with that level of rust ever again.

I plan on buying a (used, probably 2010-2015ish) car in the spring, and I will fly somewhere not rusty and drive it home.

What are the best states for this? I know in general, South or West, but I'm sure some places are better than others.

Wife's Tiguan. 132k. Cyl 1 spark plug has oil on the firing electrode. I'm assuming I need to replace valve cover and PVC. Any guidance on this job or links to a step by step process of it?

I have new coils for it just installed first. Still has a misfire with engine light on.

Can I use sto oil treatment with full synthetic motor oil?

I drive a 2006 F150 XLT 4WD with the 4.6l 2v V8. It has 146k mile on it. It developed a tick which from what I can tell is the timing chain. I am planning on replacing the entire Camshaft Drive Kit- everything in this bundle:

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6004-462V

My father in law has experience doing repair work. I understand that it's a pretty extensive repair, but I'd like to give it a go. Does anyone have experience with this model, and/or general advice before I start?

Hey Reddit, I really hate to be that person asking for help, but I'm in a tough spot. My tire blew out, and I had to use the last of my paycheck on gas to get through the week, so I'm tapped out with no way to cover the repair. If anyone could spare $85 to help me get a new tire, it would make a world of difference. I’d be incredibly grateful, Thanks for even reading this and for any kindness you can offer.