At idle oil pressure is around 30 but at cruising speed it is almost always 60-70 cold and warmed up. What should I check? Thanks!

The current ground extends from the neg. terminal to a thin metal crossmember just in front of the battery. It appears to be heavily corroded, and I have had a problem with battery drain. Alternator is tested producing 13.25v, and there are no parasitic drains measured.

Would it make sense to run the replacement ground to the car's frame rather than to the crossmember? What gauge is recommended? What type of insulation is best?

https://preview.redd.it/q7j2b4v89h4e1.jpg?width=4600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53ee7d04dc142f21ea2f7a8d6b8dbc77684547bc

This is a Hyundai Elantra 2010. A clear liquid is leaking from that plastic part highlighted just under the passenger side door. Can you please help identify what it could be? Is it safe to drive? Thanks

2008 Chrysler 300. So, after for driving for about half an hour, this is the warmest my engine got. It's 20°F (-6°C) where I am. I'm not having any mechanical issues, just need to know if this is an expected temp after 30 minutes of driving.

I have a road guard ignition interlock in my car. Pulled into gas station and the car died. Blow device went into its three minute countdown allowing me to start it back up. It wouldn’t start back up. Car has good battery and power to everything except for speedometer light, tach light and the road guard won’t power up. I turn the key and the car won’t come out of park. I checked every fuse under the dash and inside engine area fuse box. Any ideas what the issue is ? Thank you

So my brother just bought a 2021 Nissan versa. He showed me the engine and we happened to notice the coolant was a little low. I topped it off with a little coolant I had in the back of my car maybe 3/4 of an inch to get it between the high and low mark. I noticed his was blue and mine was orange but I figured it was probably just a different brand. The coolant I added was pre diluted so I’m not a total idiot. I looked up what my brothers car takes and it says” blue colored silicate free HOAT (Hybrid organic acid technology) how serious is this and do we need to get his radiator flushed and refilled or will it be ok?

Anyone have any experience removing 2009 Acura tl engine from the top? 3.5L FWD. if so, any suggestions on how to make it easier? Thanks in advance

Hey guys! I recently did a clutch job on my 2014 Ford Focus and it has me feeling really confident in the garage. I've toyed with the idea of flipping cars in the past but I just haven't pulled the trigger yet. Now that I have a clutch job (among other things) under my belt it has me thinking about flipping a car much more seriously.

In my state I can only legally sell 2 cars per year, so I'd like to find cars that have a lot of potential value I can add. While the Focus is a car I have experience with, it doesn't have a lot of upside potential as a cheap, nearly disposable commuter car.

I'm hoping to identify a specific car that has a known, expensive issue that I can become reasonably competent fixing. This will hopefully help me make some cash on the side while also keeping more of whatever that car is on the road. The first thing that comes to mind is BMWs with stretched timing chains but I'm curious if anyone else has thoughts on a car that would be a good candidate for what I'm trying to do here.

Hello everybody. I recently replaced a broken CV axle on my 2007 Subaru Impreza. At the same time I also replaced the oil in the differential since I was down there anyway. A short while after this I started getting a very low whine whenever the car was slowing down and over time it got louder. Eventually I checked and found the differential oil leaked out and I then learned of the crush bearing I should have replaced. Long story short I flipped the bearing around which stopped the leak and refilled but the sound eventually came back even louder. It seems to have no relation to braking, but just this morning it seemed like it was causing the slowing down from not pushing the gas pedal (not sure what the term for this is) to allow down a bit faster and the start going again from a stop to be a bit slower. Then my check engine light came on. I won't have time to check the codes till I get home from work but I wanted to see if it could be my new cv axle or the differential itself. Thanks!

Hello,

I have a 2007 Honda Pilot and I suspect the transfer case has failed.

Can I start the vehicle and put it in gear with the transfer case removed and see if the grinding sounds go away?

This would be troubleshooting only, NOT actually running the vehicle on the roads with the transfer case removed.

Thanks

I bought this car new in 2019. I have used the heated seats every year and normally keep it on the hottest setting. This year the lowest setting is so hot on the driver seat. Uncomfortable hot and noticeably hotter than the passenger seat with the passenger seat on the highest setting and the driver on the lowest setting. It turns off and on normally with the button. I have been trying to do some research and so far all I can come up with is a possible actuator problem, wiring problem, or the actual unit not working correctly which will result in me having to reupholster the seats. It is a Limited FWD with heated and ventilated seats. Any ideas? No regular mechanics that I have talked to will work on it at all. Is there some way that I could check the actuator or wiring to see if that could be the issue?

2006 pontiac vibe/toyota matrix 1zz-fe engine

Coolant overflow reservoir empties very quickly, only after engine has been ran.

Leak never progresses past the reservoir, after it is empty a week can be driven and the radiator stays full to the brim, no issues with overheating.

I tried taking the reservoir off and coating it in a sealant. Did nothing. I read maybe a faulty rad cap? Someone please steer me in the right direction here because it's driving me nuts! Thanks

What’s everyone’s opinion on the cheap parts off Amazon. Replaced VVT solenoids on daughter’s 2017 Hyundai. These things are like $60 for the pair from some company you can’t pronounce on Amazon but ended up spending almost $300 at the local parts store because I’m too afraid to try the Chinese or Korean stuff off Amazon. I’m I an idiot?

Heard a noise on the highway Saturday and found this. Took it to a nearby tire shop and the guy agreed to patch it but said he couldn’t guarantee the work and refused to charge me. I’m thinking this means I should just replace the tire. The set has just 7,000 miles on it so thinking I can get away with just the one. Is this the way to go or should I just wait a few weeks and see what happens?

Got at least one failing sensor battery of three, one is new. Dash light acting erratically in the cold. Should I get four aftermarket and have the shop install them all at once, or just have the shop give me their parts and install only the ones failing? I am of the “ain’t broke don’t fix it” crowd, but since the three are original on a 2016 Sienna I figure they will all fail soon. Last shop was over $100 for the sensor with install.

I know very little about cars and want to get to the point where I can fix my own vehicle (2016 Hyundai elantra). Are schematics/diagrams available to the general public somewhere? Is there a YouTube channel you suggest? Any advice on where to get started would be appreciated

As the title says, manual transmission shift control cable snapped on my 2005 Kia Sportage. Part seems to be unobtainable for now, I have checked the scrap yards and so on but so far no luck.

I appreciate any suggestions as to how to fix this. I was thinking to have a good welder fuse the end point to the cable with some sort of coil or sleeve (probably do the same to the other cable just to avoid a future failure on the other end. Usually I would just bite the bullet and replace the part.

I'm in the EU by the way and to give everyone some context, the only quote I've received is 140€ and no delivery date (which I'm not even sure what to think of lol).

https://preview.redd.it/qvzr7kdize4e1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1db9fb2f068cbfbbcd114db676973035ab6bf1c7

https://preview.redd.it/06j5cdejze4e1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=304f5bf6983e6735aeb2cdc38d236d9019a91303

My boy gave me a ride home yesterday from work and I went to move his electric seat backwards and it like derailed the seat and moved sideways kind of when we push it back and a piece snapped off does anybody know what might have happened or what this is?

Good morning,

I have the following problem with my Megane III with automatic air conditioning and am faced with a puzzle:

Everything works perfectly for the first 10 minutes or so, both the air conditioning and the heating. After these 10 minutes, the blower continues to work but no more air comes out of the air vents in the car, regardless of whether I leave the control to the automatic air conditioning system or make manual settings, I can adjust the intensity but there is no air flow.

The problem occurs regardless of whether the air conditioning compressor is switched on or not.

So far this year, the car has been serviced and a new battery fitted. The cabin filter was recently replaced, but this has not led to any improvement. According to the fault diagnosis via obd port, there is no fault

. My guess is that some flap has closed and is preventing the air flow, but what is causing this?

I would be really grateful for any further ideas and solutions.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 2009 Honda Accord Sedan with around 80K miles. My battery light came on a couple days ago, and then my battery died on me when driving, indicating an alternator issue. I drove on a bumpy dirt road for 10 miles last weekend, and I almost think instead of having a broken alternator, some of my wiring could have gotten loose. What wiring could I check before I swap out the alternator for a new one? I have already cleaned the battery terminals and connections at the battery itself.

I am pretty sure the issue is not my battery - I went into Autozone and they recharged it for me, and they detected no issues with it. In addition, a couple weeks ago I left my lights on by mistake, jumped my car, and then the battery recharged on its own when running the car. I know my alternator was working then a couple weeks ago, which then makes me again suspect a wiring issue.

EDIT: here is a short video of my car under the hood. wondering if this sound is normal, and if it's not is it likely coming from the alternator? https://youtube.com/shorts/WHwuuRMN1G4?feature=share

I checked mass air flow sensor and it was not dirty. (whiped it down either way) Air filter is clean as well. Battery is brand new. So is my starter i just replaced. What can it be? I used OBD scanner and i got 3 codes.

PO720 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit.

P0100 Mass Or Volume Air flow circuit.

P0505 Idle Air control system.

Nissan Maxima 2000 GLE V6

I have a 2012 Kia Forte. I recently changed the timing belt, alternator, and did a good amount of other work. I also have a 2002 Toyota Camry. It’s..not well. Needs a new Cat, AC compressor, plus an AC line leak, and a lot of cosmetic damage. Both cars are just shy of 200,000 miles. I know Toyota is a better quality brand, but it’s ten years older too. My question is, which car is worth keeping with longevity in mind?

Hello! I drive a 2021 Hyundai Elantra SEL, about 30k miles so far. Lately I have noticed that when I am accelerating on the highway, between 60-70mph, I will have a very short stutter in the acceleration every 5 seconds, just like a slight drop in the power, whether I am accelerating or maintaining speed. It happens in clusters, where it'll occur 3 times in a week, then be good for another week, then do it again 2 times the next week. I took it to the local Hyundai dealership since I still have the powertrain warranty, but they said they could not replicate the issue.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! And is this something I need to address immediately or is it truly a "wait till something bigger happens" type situation. I'm not very familiar with cars but I am techy, so I could probably follow instructions if I at least know where to look, assuming it's nothing too serious as I don't want to do something stupid and void the warranty. Thanks again!

As stated 08 mitsubishi outlander with a 3l. When driving on the hwy the car went bang!. That's when the asc off / service required light came on and then I noticed it won't shift out of 3rd gear and the idle was pulsating. The transition from park to drive is rough as well The scan only popped up maf codes. So I replaced the maf sensor and cleaned the throttle body. It stop pulsating (mostly) at idle but is still rough and stalls out randomly. Any ideas on this one?