I have a thermalright frozen 360 and I have no idea on how to daisy chain, each fan has a male and female 3 pin and 1 4 pin female connector to plug into the included hub. Do I just daisy chain the 3 pins and plug the final one into the motherboard? TIA

As you can see the psu is face up under the gpu and mb, that are both going to be water cooled. Right now I'm worried if any leak were to present itself on the left side of my rig that it would short the psu right away. Due to potentially leaking on the psu. I bought an acrylic sheet at home depot and was thinking of placing it as a barrier under where the gpu is going to be mounted. I would bend it at a slight angle so water would travel along the back closest to the case to either left or right of the psu.

I'm trying to build a loop with QDC's for my GPU / CPU blocks. Can someone link me QDC's and correct EPDM tubing that I can get in the states? I was looking at them and im really confused as to which to pick and if they'd work. any help would be much appreciated thank you!

It will equalize pressure on the loop to the surrounding air.

While sounds great but to equalize pressure it means it needs to release or absorb air from the surrounding when the coolant heats up or cools down. Isn’t this will promote growth? Well at least it will foul the coolant sooner than if we do not use this?

I had an intense gaming session. Everything was running optimal. Back plate on the graphics card was hot AF, so decided to power off the PC and give it a 15-20min break.

Came back, powered in the PC and pop

Now won't post. I observed the motherboard after I pressed the Power button, all RGB was working, also noticed some flickers that weren't normal. RAM has RGB, also flickered.

Keyboard and mouse RGB were okay.

Utility lights on the graphics card worked as well.

Water pumped is working

Okay, this is where it gets interesting and probably has a lot to do with the issue that I can't pin-point exactly.

I was attempting to remove the graphics card, plug my monitor(s) to the motherboard to see if I could get a post which would in turn, prove the that this issue lies with the graphics card.

I unscrewed the screws that mount the graphics card to the case. No problem.

But..

When I reached to grab the part of the graphics card that mounts to the case so that I could wiggle the graphics card out of the PCIe slot, I felt a very soft electrocution sensation. Given that I had flipped the master switch on my PSU, so there should be no electricity flow right?

Also, I was unscrewing a the plug fitting to my graphics card (my system is liquid cooled) and I experienced the same electrocution sensation. After I removed the fitting, I could see some of the liquid after the plug was removed (call me stupid) I stuck my finger to feel the liquid. Same sensation.

I unplugged the PSU completely, check the part of the graphics card that mounts to the case. No sensation.

Checked the metal plug fitting again. No sensation.

Stuck my finger in the liquid again No sensation.

And now we're here.

It's late where I live so I decided that I'll investigate more tomorrow.

I'm not extremely knowledgable when it comes to troubleshooting. Thank you in advance for any feedback or help. I have reason to believe that the graphics card is kaput, but I could be wrong, that's why I'm asking here. Again. Thank you

I should mention that occasionally I would plug in a USB cable to one of the ports of my motherboard. For example a type-A to mini-USB to plug in to my condenser mic, I would touch the metal on mini-USB adapter that would normally plug in to the mic and I would experience the same electrocution sensation. I never thought too much of it because everything seemed to work okay, until today.

Tomorrow I will drain the liquid from my system refill it, plug one my monitors to the motherboard and see if I can get a post like I mentioned earlier.

I've tried a few different ones from AliExpress but none of them are as soft and squishy as the ones EK uses on their distro plates.
I'm just trying to replace the black string in my distro plate with clear.
The AliEx ones are noticeably stiffer the only way I was able to get a leak proof seal is to tighten all screws to the point of micro-fracture cracks appearing.

thanks

I saw so many questions, related to what to use, conflicts etc.
Lets explain a few things, to help you make a better choicce.

pH Levels and Water Types (yes there are several water types)
A pH close to 0 indicates a highly acidic substance, such as hydrochloric acid (HCl), while a pH near 14 indicates a highly basic substance, such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH).

The pH of water can vary depending on its source, category, and processing methods:

Best to check your sources pH level either using pH paper or buying a digital reader. They're not that expensive and if you're going to make this a hobby, best have one.

Small shifts in pH can have significant impacts, especially in cooling systems.
For custom cooling loops, a neutral pH of around 7 is ideal because it minimizes the risk of corrosion and ensures efficient heat transfer.

Below figure shows the resistivity chart of Pure De-Ionized water, at pH7 it hits its peak of 18.2 Mohm-cm

Resistivity chart for Type 1 Pure H²O

Mohm-cm = Mega ohm per Centimeter in layman's terms The "Mohm" part tells you how much resistance the material has (a lot of Mohms means a lot of resistance) the higher the resistance the harder it is for electrons to flow through the solution.

De-Ionized Water and Its Effects on Cooling Systems

De-ionized (DI) water, also known as Type 1 Ultrapure water, has a high resistivity when at a neutral pH of 7. However, its resistivity decreases if the water becomes slightly acidic or basic.

In custom loop cooling, we typically use pre-mixed solutions or mix our own with de-ionized (DI) water. The de-ionization process removes ions, leaving the water "ion-hungry." Over time, when exposed to metals like copper, DI water will absorb copper ions (Cu²⁺) to satisfy this hunger. This process contaminates the water with Cu²⁺ ions, which gradually lowers the pH, making the water slightly acidic and increasing the risk of corrosion.

This is why regular maintenance is essential for cooling loops. Cleaning them yearly helps prevent contaminant buildup, maintains an optimal pH, and extends the system’s lifespan.

Also DO NOT MIX METALS, That makes things a lot worse!

For example, copper cooling blocks corrode and release Cu²⁺ ions into the water, making it slightly acidic.
While this may not be an issue on its own, adding aluminum fittings or blocks introduces additional complications. By doing so, you've essentially created a Galvanic cell, causing the water to behave like an electrolyte solution. This leads to the destruction of the aluminum parts over time.

White goop, if a clear solution was used this is most likely Aluminium Oxide OG: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/d3nc2k/weird_white_deposits_forming_in_my_waterblocks/

For the Nerds, this happens because aluminum has a more negative electrode potential compared to copper. When the two interact through an electrolyte, this electrochemical imbalance triggers a process known as Galvanic corrosion. The byproduct of this reaction is aluminum oxide. When dry, it appears as a white, powdery, sometimes flaky substance. When wet, it becomes a problem because it can clog the narrow channels in your cooling blocks, reducing the performance of the cooling system and raising the device’s temperature, leading to further issues.

So you have a Copper Cooling block,

Your absolute best choice is Nickel-Plated Brass for any component that is in contact with water.

• Corrosion Resistance: Nickel plating provides an excellent protective layer over the brass, preventing direct exposure to water and minimizing corrosion.
• Durability: Brass is strong and resistant to wear, making it a popular choice.
• Compatibility: Works well with both copper and aluminum components in the loop, especially when properly plated.

Second best choice is Stainless Steel

• Corrosion Resistance: Stainless steel is highly resistant to rust and corrosion, even in the presence of water and various coolant additives.
• Durability: Extremely durable and has a high resistance to mechanical stress.
• Non-reactive: Stainless steel is inert and doesn't leach ions into the coolant like copper does, avoiding the risk of electrochemical reactions.

If this helps make sense to just a single individual, Well that makes me happy.
Leave a comment if you found it useful
Best of luck with your Cooling and Over Clocking endeavors!

Kind regards,
Nicklorion #NR 1 in the Netherlands, according to 3Dmark atleast, which means shit. XD
[3DMark NL results](https://www.3dmark.com/search#advanced?test=spy%20P&cpuId=&gpuId=&gpuCount=0&gpuType=ALL&deviceType=ALL&storageModel=ALL&showRamDisks=false&memoryChannels=0&country=NL&scoreType=overallScore&hofMode=false&showInvalidResults=false&freeParams=&minGpuCoreClock=&maxGpuCoreClock=&minGpuMemClock=&maxGpuMemClock=&minCpuClock=&maxCpuClock=)

Source for some of it:
The CHEMISTRY OF COPPER IN WATER AND RELATED STUDIES.
https://accelconf.web.cern.ch/p01/papers/tpah106.pdf

Hey I know this isn’t a fancy custom loop or anything but figured yall are the experts and could answer a question for me.

Just picked up a 5700x3d and this liquid freezer 3 yesterday. Planned on top mounting the radiator but failed to realize that my RAM would interfere with the clearance. Slapped it together in this configuration late last night just to get by till I figured out how to proceed, I definitely don’t want to leave it like this due to limiting my GPU upgrade options (already a tight fit for the modern 3 fan GPUs with the dual 140mm fans I had mounted before the aio)

So basically, I’m planning on detaching the fans and mounting the radiator at the top of the case with the fans on top and outside of the case. Wondering if there would be any issues with this (besides a bit of wiring mess but I can work with that) and what fan orientation would be best: fans pushing air down through radiator into case or pulling air up through/out of case. Either way i have my set of 140mm fans for front mount intake or exhaust also

For reference I run my case open air with no front panel, the bit of extra noise doesn’t bother me and I keep it very clean and as dust free as possible . Also that black factory case exhaust is probably doing nothing lol

Sorry for the essay

Before you ask: MO-RA will not be cheaper, because i already have the rads and idea how to install them externally in aesthetically acceptable way using DIY materials. The rads in question are Watercool Heatkiller-L 360.

Some time later i am planning to re-organize my build. I run tripple rads inside O11 Dynamic EVO case, everything running in series but building this was a pain and i felt like i am squeezing things inside. Using 4090 and 5800x3d with plans to upgrade, i dont feel like running even more heat-producing hardware will be comfortable. I want a get a nicer looking case, like Fractal North that is capable of housing front 280 rad and move everything else (except pump\res and that 280 intake rad) outside. I ask anyone with more experience than myself to look at my schizo drawings - https://imgur.com/a/xjzz8sm

And tell me which way to connect them will be more correct.

I feel like in this particular scenario parrallel conection using T-fittings and 90 degree fittings would work better. As for mounting the rads - they are flat and boxy from all sides, all i need to do is wall-mount a suitable size flat shelf, superglue some neodymium magnets to it's surface and just stick the rads to magnets - you will have to apply considerable force to move it.

There will be a place to put a second pump\res inside a case if almost all the rads are outside. So the overall loop order will look like this:

Pump\Res 1 => Pump\Res 2 => 280 front rad => GPU Block => External Tripple Rad => CPU Block =>Pump\Res 1

There is an idea to use quick disconnects on in\out of the case points for ease of maintenance, when you need to drain the loop or even add another external rad.

Another question is: how do you fill a loop with dual pump\res running in series? you fill the cooland trough one res and only using it till it fills and only after that you turn on both pumps?

I am new to aquasuite and I’m not seeing anyway to adjust the fan curves. There is no fan mode tab that I have seen others adjust their fan curve on. If anyone could give me any pointers that would be great.

Help!

I want to clean ROG MAXIMUS Z690 EXTREME GLACIAL.

I know I can't take it apart for cleaning.

But I want to clean.

ekwb told me to use EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner + Superflush.

But can rust and dirt be removed?

I'm Japanese, but I'm not good at English.

However, there is no information unless it is in English, so I posted it on raddit.

https://preview.redd.it/gp1bhraqqwzd1.jpg?width=3120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=74ca759eb8dbd24e8e73b7fb1099ab49809b31ff

I posted this in r/watercool but given the limited audience there, here I am.

Having received my rad, I wanted a filter for obvious reasons. They've mentioned in that thread they're working on a solution. In the meantime, I picked up some of this and a couple sets of these.

The magnets have enough grip and pull to stretch the filter tight enough so it doesn't get pulled too much into the fan. I think a couple more in the middle of the vertical/horizontal sides to make it that much tighter will work perfectly. The filter breaths well enough I think to work without too much of a negative effect. I may try with a more open material, but I'm not yet done with the setup so I'll cross that bridge later. With some previous reviews of somewhat similar setups, I think it had been seen to cause a ~1.8°C Δ. With a larger radiator, I would imagine that to be reduced somewhat. I'll try to test that when I can.

Quite simply, I rough cut the filter, attached a pair of magnets to a corner of the filter, and shoved it into the corner of the fan cover. Rinse and repeat. I'd not realized at the time of purchase that the fan cover was not aluminum, else I'd planned to epoxy the magnets to each corner. The benefit is no modifications are required.

Thought some of you would like to know there are inexpensive and easy solutions should one need.

My motherboard does not have a tempresture sensor port, but I would like add one for monitoring my custom loop.

Does anyone know of a one that can be connected to one of the internal USB pins and a g1/4 sensor fitting for the loop, or otherwise how I can let my system monitor the water temps?

• I'm running a 9600x and 5700xt (planning to upgrade in the next few months) with two 360 radiators in a Lian Li/Dancase A4.

Hello There. I am building a new system, and I am going to fully water cool it.
I really like the looks of the EK Quantum Velocity2 AM5 Nickel + Plexi water block.
But since EK is presumably going out of business the block seems to be sold out globally.
Therefore, I wanted to ask if anyone here has a spare one which they are willing to sell.
Any hints and offers would be much appreciated.
I hope I do not violate any rules with this post.

So this area in the distroplate/ gpu section does not get filled and I don’t know how to do it. Its my first watercooled pc, any help is appreciated.

Im getting ready to drop in the new 9800x3d to my rig and its time to do a fluid swap. Been thinking about adding some uv green dye to my DP ultra green just to give it some more pop.

Any issues here?

I have the 5800X3D and a inno3d 4080 super 2 slot, with a 360mm standard thickness radiator + 240mm standard thickness each with a12x25's, both cpu and gpu are liquid cooled.

While drawing 280W in OCCT my gpu hits 85 degrees, even when air cooled it hits high temps, although it didn't used to, just repasted fairly recently, it's spring here nothing crazy temp wise.

Highish fluid temp to, at 45 degrees.

I'm aware OCCT is a stress test but should the gpu be this hot?

Through out this the 5800X3D temps have been totally fine.

To curb this is have currently set a lower power limit, so the gpu doesn't go over 75 degrees. I also figured out my temps went slightly lower with all fans set to exhaust.

Thanks heaps!

Edit: forgot to add a photo, it's in the description

Nobody has it in stock.

I'm building a external radiator setup, and i'm wondering what kind of fittings I should put on the hoses coming from the radiator box. I'd like for the hoses to be able to swivel some, to prevent leaks from the hoses pulling on the radiator box's fittings. Is there anything like a double joint, or a 360 degree swivel? I'm finding plenty of air fittings, but not water fittings.

So I have 2 d5 pumps and the option to either get:

a. Two d5 tops with tall reservoir combo which will look incredible.

b. Get a dual d5 top made from heavy brass and single reservoir, it seems will run quieter but will look like pair of balls and dick.

c. Standard dual d5 top made from acetal and single reservoir. Will still look like dick but cheaper. Not sure with the noise though.

Anyone have experience with the dual d5 top made from brass? How much difference they made?