Bought a couple of these at Christmas to tease and cats and dog. Works a treat, but the controller is terrible. Needs a minor degree in applied computational science to figure it out. Is there any way to upgrade the controller to a stick or something?

I'm debating purchasing a Team Associated LT10SW, but given it's non-standard dimensions, particularly the 127.8mm wheel base, I'm having second thoughts. Initially, I figured that the short wheel base would proportionately work with a Beetle or Baja Bug body - but I'm finding that pretty much all of the bodies available are in the 250mm wheel base range that fit SC trucks like the Slash, rather than shorter wheelbase buggies.

Can anyone suggest a beetle body that would fit a 128mm wheelbase & 492.4mm vehicle length? I'm not super concerned about width since I'd prefer to have body coverage similar to a SC truck. (I'd honestly consider a body from any rear engined RWD 2 door car - I'd like to keep a vintage vibe)

My end goal is a RWD, rear motor, "Beetle buggy" that I can casually run at the track (outdoor - dirt, indoor - dirt/clay - and maybe occasionally on carpet) - my thought is to have similar driving characteristics to an off-road VW Beetle based buggy - with looks to match.

If I can't find a body that will work, I'll probably end up going with another AE 1/10 SCT - but I really like how the LT10SW handles on tighter tracks (at least from what I've seen on YouTube, & based on its dimensions) - but ideally, I'd like to go with a lighter weight 2wd buggy platform vs a heavier truggy platform.

So I have these two types of batteries for my Gorgon. (First hobby grade RC btw). When I ran these on the stock motor, the lipo clearly outperformed the NIMH in both acceleration, and run time. Lipo gave me about 15-20 minutes versus about 10 on the NIMH which makes sense.

The stock motor burned out in 2 weeks, so I put in a hobbywing brushless quicrun 3150kv and esc with a 15t pinion. I used the programming card and tuned the cutoff voltage to 3.4v.

Now when I run the lipo I still get about 15-20 minutes, but with the NIMH I also get 15 minutes even with the cutoff voltage the same even though the battery capacity is only about half the mah of the lipo. I know I can disable the cutoff on the esc when I run NIMH and if I did that, I'd probably get well over 20-25 minutes of run time.

How is this possible? I'm not mad because NIMH is so much easier to use and charge but I'm not seeing any advantage to the lipos I bought on brushless.

I made this with tape and a shovel… if anyone has any tips PLEASE let me know. It’s falling apart and I made it 40 mins ago 😭

Would the antenna worked if I cut it in half?, and add a 3D printed part so it stay straight. Will that make the radio signal weaker? Thanks

Hello! So my dad and I want to start building r/C cars as he did back in his days as a Father Son project and we're planning to build the tamiya grasshopper II (2017) but we dont know what we need to build it, all I could find is that the box contains grease, the engine and the esc but other than that idk what we need. So if someone was willing to help us, please be welcome.

Hello! Just wondering if anyone can help me here - not your usual question I'm sure.

Long story short, my daughter and I recently decided we'd start doing a photoblog/vlog covering our days out and other bits and pieces. I wasn't keen on having our faces on it, so we came up with the idea of using Sylvanian Families (little animal dolls) to tell stories.

You know where this is going...

So it's got me thinking. The Sylvanians are 1/16 scale, but they're quite wide so I'm thinking 1/12 or possibly 1/10 with a booster seat.

So aside from the question of where to find half decent (not Chinese crap) RC cars, that have opening doors - would anyone, by any chance, know which scale would best fit these little dolls? If anyone has these toys to hand and a selection of scale models I'd be indebted to you if you could give me the best scale to go for.

Hi guys, I'm using the Mk2 Escort Tamiya MF01X kit as an entry level rally build. I've done the usual like replace the tamiya pogo sticks on the suspension and swapped out much of the plastic suspension support for the metal replacements and I've got some bearings coming to replace the plastic bushings.

My question is outside of moving up to brushless stuff(which I'm holding off doing until I manage to consistently get around the track without kissing the guard rail or rolling the car every turn), is that feasibly as far as I can push this little kit? I know it's not a HPI or even one of the shinier tamiya XV0 kits, but it's what I've got and plan to use for the time being as an inexpensive toe dipper.

If I like the hobby and stick it out the plan is to go as far as I can with this before upgrading maybe in a year or so. Any thoughts would be appreciated 👍

Hey everyone! This is my first time posting a question so bear with me. I have a rustler 2WD that I got used on eBay as a roller for $50. I believe I have over powered it by putting an arrma blx100 system in it out of a granite 4x4 I used to have. I've upgraded everything but the problem i have is anytime I hit the throttle a little, it wheelies like crazy. I put 6oz of weight in the front and it didn't help much. I also have aftermarket 2.8 wheels and tires on it. Any suggestions on helping this?

New sideguards, new pins in all the driveshafts, new chassis plate, new fan, rebuild shocks and diffs.

I’m very new to rc car stuff and I found this old Helion animus I had years ago, the motor doesn’t work so I was thinking to change the electronics on it but I don’t know where to start or what to do.

Pic of the car rn:

Current setup:

Front Diff: 8000 cst

Rear Diff: 5000 cst

Front and rear springs: Red Carten Rally springs, manual says they are 7N

No sway bars, but they are available to purchase (1,4mm or 1,6mm)

Tires: The stock 26mm wide rally tires