in case anyone needs to stock up on goodies, I got an email this morning saying there is a 12% coupon code for most things via the team associated website. Use code 40BDAY.

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I’m wondering if anyone knows if there are any aftermarket a-arms with adjustable rear toe that fit the sr10m? Thanks in advance!

Hey all, looking for some advice on how to better tune the setup I'm currently running for my driving skill/style. For some context, I've been racing for around 3-6 months and would still describe myself as a novice, but slightly better than when I started. Main issue I have as a racer is consistency, where I'm crashing more often than I'd like trying to achieve faster laps. Track I'm running on is medium-sized tech-y with a pretty high level of grip. Primarily running 21.5/17.5 stock class, though I'm debating on if I should just focus on 21.5 until I get better.

Ran the 6.4 in 17.5 and the 6.2 in 21.5 last weekend and been having some issues, moreso with the 6.4. The car feels squirrely/twitchy overall, with a tendency to snap oversteer if my steering input is too much. That may be due to the setup, which I copied from the local fast guy who apparently prefers his setup to be twitchier for faster inputs. The shocks feel okay, and the car seems to do fine in jumps. Setup is linked below.

I had a B7 that I sold which had a mostly stock setup, and that car definitely felt easier for me to drive. Only reason why I sold it was because all the parts I have are for the B6 platform. For now, I'd really like to stick with what I got until I get enough skill to truly appreciate an upgrade.

How should I change the setup to make it easier for me to drive? I want something a bit more stable, easier to control while still having at least some steering in corners. Should I try and reduce the steering speed in my radio settings? I'm open to any and all suggestions!

setup

I have a b6.2 now with plenty of extras tk keep it going but I got a friend trying to sell me his 6.4.

If both are setup right is the 6.4 that much better? Or just wait for a b7?

I'm just local club racing right now

Hi, I joined to ask some advice on how much these are worth nowadays, I found my old rc10gt with all the parts when cleaning out my parents attic.

All the parts are there just really dirty and could do with a clean up, I'm based in the UK and if I remember right my dad imported it for my Xmas between 97-99.

eBay prices seem pretty steep but they do look better than mine, are those prices what they are actually worth, if it helps I can post pics but the car is filthy at the moment.

Hi guys, took my pro4 to my local track over the weekend and had very disappointing runs. I could barely make the tight turns going at super low speeds. I was wondering if this is normal or if there are ways to make it turn tighter. I believe my endpoints are set correctly and the steering is going to the max, as when I turn to either extreme I can see the servo saver slightly work, which to me means its at its steering limit.

Thanks!

So I have this old OG RC10 from back in the 80's. Any idea where I can get replacement and upgrade parts? It needs new receiver, ESC and some steering parts.

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I have the sct pro4 truck. Had it for 3 years now. I've gone through 4 steering servos. The original one it came with eventually stripped. So bought a 3rd party one. Forget the brand. $40 one. It was working fine. Although I didn't run the vehicle for about a year. I was using trx4m trucks and my axial grave digger more. I started using the pro4 again. Suddenly the servo starting to brown out. Which I found out what that was. Bought another 3rd parry servo. I couldn't get the servo horn off. The original plastic one. The screw was shipped at the head. So I cut the horn. With the new servo it came with a new horn Only issue is it wouldn't fit well with the bottom of the chassis where the servo sticks out at. Finally talked with a guy from a local rc shop. They found one that fits it. From the mt10 truck. It was ok for a few, but then that one stripped out.

Bought a reedy replacement servo associated recommends for the truck. Now I know the radios aren't great. With my cr12 tioga radio crapped out. It's the same stock radio as the pro4. Now it's doing the same thing that radio did. Which is when you bump it or shake it. eradicate steering happens. The steering servo moves without turning the steering know. I tried to switch on the receiver channels 1 and 2. To see if the steering improves when switch to 2. It didn't work. Now I switched it back, I lost forward and reverse. The steering makes a weird noise when connected. I take off the serov horn and the servo moves normally. Albeit the radio issues that is.

Anyone have had issues with this truck and steering?

Does anyone know if there is an SLT file for this part or if it is possible to buy just that part without having to buy the $11 Upper Plastics Set? It is ridiculous to me that you have to buy the entire set just to replace a tiny, easy to lose part.

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Hey everyone, so I have this reoccurring issue that happens with my Pro sc10 2wd where I'll be running it for a while, and out of nowhere the left side dog bone will pop out of the socket. the car is practically stock other than the motor, ESC, and servo upgrades. Any help would be appreciated!

I am building my first RC10, I have the 40th anniversary edition and I’m confused when building the shocks as to which shock piston number to use. They are fours sets numbered 1, 2, and 3. I can’t locate any information on which number to use. Any help? Instructions location is Shocks Build Bag G Step 1.

I have a team associated reflex 14b. I noticed when I was driving the last couple of times power delivery to the front wheels was lacking. So I did what I was supposed to do and disassemble it without really knowing what I’m doing.

When I took the center diff out it was almost empty of diff grease. But when I spin the diff it seems like it’s dragging along. So I’m going to do what I always do when I don’t understand something, I’m going to disassemble further.

First question is, is there a solvent I should use to completely clean it.

Second what brand and weight of diff grease do you suggest.

I mostly run this in the back yard, at the park, or on the street. It’s been on a track a few times but that’s not what I use it for.

I was planning on getting the fast Eddie’s bearing kit eventually maybe it’s a good time to do that too, while it’s on the bench. But I might just put it back together and leave good enough alone if it ain’t broke.

How are you setting these for high grip clay and stop roll over? I have the shock collars all the way up, .1 pulls turned sideways 1.4+. Someone at my local track says buy front shocks from the buggy and buggy rear shafts and convert to b7 front end but that’s expensive for a truck I just spent 800 on..

So about 2 to 3 years ago I picked up the pro4 sct. The general tire body one. Well maybe a year later give or take. The stock steering servo went. I replaced it with one from my local rc shop. Not a reedy one. Can't remember the name. It was about 40 bucks. I didn't use the truck for about a year. Then a few months ago my grandson wanted to use it. When he did the truck would stop mid run and only have steering. Turns out the steering servo was browning out the system. So bought another $40 servo. Problem with this servo was the servo arm it came with wasn't fitting well. The original I couldn't get off cuz the screw head was stripped. So I cut it to get the 1st third party servo out. Found that the mt8 servo horn would work. Bought one. Installed it. Thought it would be ok.

Well not even a week later the servo was acting sunny wouldn't turn left all the way. The screw came loose. So tightening it. Few days later it stopped working again. When I turned left and right it would make a weird clicking noise. With the horn disconnected. It barely turns either direction and makes clicking sounds. My question is anyone who has owned this truck have issues with the steering servos? My next one I'm buying a reedy one that in the parts section of ta website suggests for this truck.

hello, I am in the look for a new 4wd buggy, I like the specks of the 14B but the body form to me looks meh, I do like the body of the Typhoon, is there any body with that shape that fits the Team Associated 14B?

Hey all,

Currently building my first kit, a B7.

I’m at the point there I have built the gear differential and am ready to place the diff into the housing and seal it up.

When I rotate the diff in the lower housing I can feel and see the screw side of the diff scrubbing the inside of the diff housing. It appears that one of the screw heads is very slightly catching it upon rotation. This happens whether I put screw side to the left side or right side of the housing.

I have mic’d all screws to ensure they’re proper length and that they are as tight and seated properly. I’ve checked to make sure the bearings and diff height shims are seated correctly.

I’m out of ideas aside from clearancing the inside of the housing with a dremel.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

Hey guys looking to finish 2 RC10’s. Looking to finish one in billet and one stock to a factory team. If anyone has any parts lots they’re looking to move lmk!!

Here's my TC3 I got years ago. An original Saleen Mustang body finally bit the dust, so it has a new 68 Mustang body. Due to the 200mm body, the stock touring car wheels looked kind of dopey, so I designed some new rims with a 5mm offset for appearances.
The car is still using the original motor, speed controller, servo, and crystal radio.

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