I have the sct pro4 truck. Had it for 3 years now. I've gone through 4 steering servos. The original one it came with eventually stripped. So bought a 3rd party one. Forget the brand. $40 one. It was working fine. Although I didn't run the vehicle for about a year. I was using trx4m trucks and my axial grave digger more. I started using the pro4 again. Suddenly the servo starting to brown out. Which I found out what that was. Bought another 3rd parry servo. I couldn't get the servo horn off. The original plastic one. The screw was shipped at the head. So I cut the horn. With the new servo it came with a new horn Only issue is it wouldn't fit well with the bottom of the chassis where the servo sticks out at. Finally talked with a guy from a local rc shop. They found one that fits it. From the mt10 truck. It was ok for a few, but then that one stripped out.

Bought a reedy replacement servo associated recommends for the truck. Now I know the radios aren't great. With my cr12 tioga radio crapped out. It's the same stock radio as the pro4. Now it's doing the same thing that radio did. Which is when you bump it or shake it. eradicate steering happens. The steering servo moves without turning the steering know. I tried to switch on the receiver channels 1 and 2. To see if the steering improves when switch to 2. It didn't work. Now I switched it back, I lost forward and reverse. The steering makes a weird noise when connected. I take off the serov horn and the servo moves normally. Albeit the radio issues that is.

Anyone have had issues with this truck and steering?

Does anyone know if there is an SLT file for this part or if it is possible to buy just that part without having to buy the $11 Upper Plastics Set? It is ridiculous to me that you have to buy the entire set just to replace a tiny, easy to lose part.

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Hey everyone, so I have this reoccurring issue that happens with my Pro sc10 2wd where I'll be running it for a while, and out of nowhere the left side dog bone will pop out of the socket. the car is practically stock other than the motor, ESC, and servo upgrades. Any help would be appreciated!

I am building my first RC10, I have the 40th anniversary edition and I’m confused when building the shocks as to which shock piston number to use. They are fours sets numbered 1, 2, and 3. I can’t locate any information on which number to use. Any help? Instructions location is Shocks Build Bag G Step 1.

I have a team associated reflex 14b. I noticed when I was driving the last couple of times power delivery to the front wheels was lacking. So I did what I was supposed to do and disassemble it without really knowing what I’m doing.

When I took the center diff out it was almost empty of diff grease. But when I spin the diff it seems like it’s dragging along. So I’m going to do what I always do when I don’t understand something, I’m going to disassemble further.

First question is, is there a solvent I should use to completely clean it.

Second what brand and weight of diff grease do you suggest.

I mostly run this in the back yard, at the park, or on the street. It’s been on a track a few times but that’s not what I use it for.

I was planning on getting the fast Eddie’s bearing kit eventually maybe it’s a good time to do that too, while it’s on the bench. But I might just put it back together and leave good enough alone if it ain’t broke.

How are you setting these for high grip clay and stop roll over? I have the shock collars all the way up, .1 pulls turned sideways 1.4+. Someone at my local track says buy front shocks from the buggy and buggy rear shafts and convert to b7 front end but that’s expensive for a truck I just spent 800 on..

So about 2 to 3 years ago I picked up the pro4 sct. The general tire body one. Well maybe a year later give or take. The stock steering servo went. I replaced it with one from my local rc shop. Not a reedy one. Can't remember the name. It was about 40 bucks. I didn't use the truck for about a year. Then a few months ago my grandson wanted to use it. When he did the truck would stop mid run and only have steering. Turns out the steering servo was browning out the system. So bought another $40 servo. Problem with this servo was the servo arm it came with wasn't fitting well. The original I couldn't get off cuz the screw head was stripped. So I cut it to get the 1st third party servo out. Found that the mt8 servo horn would work. Bought one. Installed it. Thought it would be ok.

Well not even a week later the servo was acting sunny wouldn't turn left all the way. The screw came loose. So tightening it. Few days later it stopped working again. When I turned left and right it would make a weird clicking noise. With the horn disconnected. It barely turns either direction and makes clicking sounds. My question is anyone who has owned this truck have issues with the steering servos? My next one I'm buying a reedy one that in the parts section of ta website suggests for this truck.

hello, I am in the look for a new 4wd buggy, I like the specks of the 14B but the body form to me looks meh, I do like the body of the Typhoon, is there any body with that shape that fits the Team Associated 14B?

Hey all,

Currently building my first kit, a B7.

I’m at the point there I have built the gear differential and am ready to place the diff into the housing and seal it up.

When I rotate the diff in the lower housing I can feel and see the screw side of the diff scrubbing the inside of the diff housing. It appears that one of the screw heads is very slightly catching it upon rotation. This happens whether I put screw side to the left side or right side of the housing.

I have mic’d all screws to ensure they’re proper length and that they are as tight and seated properly. I’ve checked to make sure the bearings and diff height shims are seated correctly.

I’m out of ideas aside from clearancing the inside of the housing with a dremel.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

Hey guys looking to finish 2 RC10’s. Looking to finish one in billet and one stock to a factory team. If anyone has any parts lots they’re looking to move lmk!!

Here's my TC3 I got years ago. An original Saleen Mustang body finally bit the dust, so it has a new 68 Mustang body. Due to the 200mm body, the stock touring car wheels looked kind of dopey, so I designed some new rims with a 5mm offset for appearances.
The car is still using the original motor, speed controller, servo, and crystal radio.

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Does anyone own the cr12 tioga truck? If so have success with shock replacements/upgrades. I purchased some injora ones, but they're too thick on the bottom eye holes. Can't fit both the shock and lower suspension arm together where they connect to the axle at.

Does anyone know of any good wheels and tires that fit this thing I burn through the factory ones in no time at all. Off-road, street carpet? It’s a rare hub size…. Or can the drive hex hub be upgraded to a larger size? I’m still new to this hobby but I feel there must be better options out there?

The problem is that I have a 1/8 motor which is a 1/5mm bore which I need mod1 gears. So is there any mod 1 spur gears that I could buy.I check online and I didn't find anything

Bought a mt10 in the last few months and have run several batteries through it. The last time my kid was running it it stopped moving and we both assumed low voltage. (Running a 3s)

As it stands right now I've been trying to re-bind the esc and can't for the life of me get it to work. Could it just be a bad esc? The videos I've dug up are specific to the mt8. I get the fast blinking green when I hold down before powering on. All we are getting is the fan running and the steering is functional. Is there something I'm missing? (Still kind of a rc noobie)

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I have the A550 rally car. It has a brushless 4300kv motor and is currently running 2s fine. Do you think it could run 3s or is that too much?

Hello. Long story short I have a problem with shop as they say box is to big and they want more money from me for delivery. Can someone measure the box of a kit for me ? I assume the size is compared to b4 or b3.2 and others, so that would be helpful too.