My husband's 2015 Chrysler 200s won't turn on for the 3rd time in the past year or so, and I'm worried it's the engine. It's got 112,000 miles on it, which seems to be around the time the engine would go bad. We still owe $3,600 on his loan, so I'm at a loss for what to do if the engine ends up being the issue. At that point, it'll cost us more to fix his car than to just pay off the loan. I'm hoping it's something minor so we can use it as a trade-in for a different car, but I have no clue what to do if it's an expensive fix or can't be fixed. What should we do to get the most money back as possible to help pay off the loan?

I wanna get this Chrysler key chain, what are the origins of it? Is it really vintage

Hi there,

I have a 2016 Chrysler town and country with a 107K miles on it - check engine light came on with code po868 “low line pressure” - I had a flush done in May … took it to Jiffy Lube to have the codes read and was told that it looked like there was a leak, I’m so frustrated bc this problem at this point already cost me a thousand dollars in May and here we are again, because the dealership failed to diagnose the leak which I asked them about - looked at the papers from May and they had written will disguise checking fluids with dye at a later date but they never gave me that option in May even when I pointed out that this would be early for a transmission fluid based off the mileage … anyways, I’m venting at this point. Anyone tell me what would likely need to be replaced and cost - am I safe to drive short distances?

The shop wants to replace my 2y/o fan again because it’s not turning on and causing the van to overheat. I’m not doing that again. I connected the fan directly to the battery and it powered on just fine. To me there’s an interruption in the signal to turn it on. I want to just bypass the switch and just jumper wire the fan to something else in the engine. What all turns on with the key?

I need an oil bath air cleaner for an inline 8 1946-1948 Chrysler. I know I’m probably asking a brick wall considering it’s such a specific part for a specific year and engine but if you guys know anything please let me know!

How much crack to you have to smoke to be a Chrysler engineer? After 20 years in this business I am always impressed how poorly these cars and trucks are built.

Is it acceptable?

I feel like a lada would be more reliable.

I found out i had a bad engine fuse relay and fuse box (they are a single part) and was wondering if anyone know a site that might sell some I been looking at ebay and they are cut missing parts.i really appreciate it very much.

I have a 2015 town and country limited and when I go to turn on the heated seats they stay on for like three seconds and then turn back off. Is thus a common issue? Easy or hard fix?

Amazon has the $19.24 just-the-text edition -> https://amzn.to/3Z5VKnu

As well as the more Chrysler-style hardCover at $39! -> https://amzn.to/3BgeMhe

The real bargain is at Apple Books at $5.99 but that's a digital edition.

https://preview.redd.it/jqrgsek8631e1.jpg?width=180&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9ddcc5784296431dea413969137b18f8412875f6

I'm looking around at various prices and I'm seeing anywhere from like 1200 to 1500 bucks.. but when the dealer told me the Heater core needed to be replaced he quoted 12 hours of labor brining the price to over 3 grand which is more then I paid for the car!

Now I know heater cores can be a big job but 3 grand? Really?

He's also quoting me 1200+ to replace the Dash cluster.. I can get them online for like 130 - 200 and aren't these things just plug and play? Why the hell is it so much? Just because it's a dealer?

Anyways I'm getting a few things I can use to help. A small Plug in heater for a car to help move a little heat and keep my windshield defrosted. I'm also getting LED lights I can mount on the dash around the clusters to see them at night in the dark.

Honestly I find myself really loving this car despite the issues. It's quite, comfortable, the sound system is to die for. IT's a bit underpowered but that about the only fault I can find and paying 2k for a car with less than 120k miles on it and no leaks or anything to speak of in this day and age this solid ( it seems ) feels like I did okay.

My 300 C has a gen 1 WIN module. I’m curious if a gen 2 or 3 module is compatible and a suitable upgrade since mine is on its way out.

I got my a hole in one fixed tire then a few months later the TPS stops reading two tires on the passenger side. I rotate the tires and no change. Now the the front driver side says it's around 20 pounds and the drivers side is 37. Manually checking them and the front is 39 and the rear is 37.

Anyone know what is going on or had this happen?

Hi,

My car don't have an OEM fuse box and I don't know what is it's correct serial number. I bought 04869000AJ, but ABS doesn't work with it. Can someone help me, please, and tell me what's the original part's number? Thanks.

Got 102k miles on it.

So I am replacing my fuel injectors, however do I need to code them? I've heard mixed messages so if anyone can clarify this, that would be great. Trying not to pay $500 for a garage to replace them and do it myself. Thank you

So first off the Dash Illumination lights don't work. The cluster works just fine but the back lights don't so I can't see my Speedo Ect at night.

Second the Vents won't switch on the dash, they are stuck blowing out of the dash vents and won't switch to floor or Defrost.

Finally it's no throwing heat At all. This has me the most concerned but I feel like this is also related to the other 2 issues.

I did some digging and some talking and found out that All of these I believe are also controlled by the BCM and the Sebring is KNOWN to have issues with the BCM going bad. Still, I'd like to hear other people about this if they had similar problem and what it was for them. I know the heat issue could be the Core is clogged but I'm holding hope.

Car goes Thursday to find out.

I would be driving from kentucky to California round trip. Would my car make it and be fine afterwards? I wont do it if i shouldn't i live my car i just wanted to explore the options before this trip.

I have about 105,400 miles and it’s in today for a new muffler. I took it to a new place. My DIL claims the place my husband and I have used for years, Joe’s, somehow cheated her (I don’t remember details) so she went another place and they treat her very well.

So I figured, it’s just a muffler, I’ll give them a whirl. I can always just not go there again if I’m dissatisfied. I am waiting back right now for an estimate, took it in today.

Anyhoo, I believe I’m a tad behind on preventative maintenance so I consulted my car manual and it says to check the timing belt and replace spark plugs. I talked to Joe’s today to see if their system logging my previous service says these two things were taken care of. If not, I plan to tell the new place and have it done. They asked on the phone when I made the appointment if I knew if it had been checked, thus my call to Joe’s who just called back.

So I just got off the phone with Joe’s, and I do need spark plugs. But he said my car does not have a timing belt. I said, what up? It’s in the manual. Nope, says he. At the end of the conversation I asked again, are you sure my car has no timing belt? And he said absolutely I am certain it does not.

A cursory internet search reveals auto parts places selling 2009 Sebring timing belts. Help? What is the truth here? I‘m beginning to think my DIL is correct and I need a new mechanic.

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I absolutely love our 2004 Sebring Convertible and want to keep it running smoothly for years to come. We've had it since new, and since it's a convertible, we only drive it in the summer. It has around 60k miles, with no rust or corrosion, and the engine is running well so far. However, I’m aware that certain issues are common with this engine, like oil sludge buildup, timing belt wear, and water pump leaks.

What should I focus on to prevent engine failure or other potential problems down the road? Any advice or maintenance tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Had the battery changed twice, had alternator changed twice. Now the battery is testing bad. We could rule out the voltage regulator because that, on this car, is connected to the alternator. Could it really be bad battery cables? My mechanic says no but he hasn’t checked the inside of the cables for corrosion. He’s just assuming they are good based off of the outside condition of the cables. I’m having it checked out professionally soon for a diagnosis, just wanted to see what you guys thought and brainstorm. (There is a recall on it for the occupant restraint control module also….) Not sure what that is.

I’m having the issue where blinkers/wipers don’t work unless the car is in auxiliary. I replaced relays and fuses, replaced the multifunction switch and still nothing. It seems to be a common problem but the common fixes haven’t worked. Any ideas?