Had the battery changed twice, had alternator changed twice. Now the battery is testing bad. We could rule out the voltage regulator because that, on this car, is connected to the alternator. Could it really be bad battery cables? My mechanic says no but he hasn’t checked the inside of the cables for corrosion. He’s just assuming they are good based off of the outside condition of the cables. I’m having it checked out professionally soon for a diagnosis, just wanted to see what you guys thought and brainstorm. (There is a recall on it for the occupant restraint control module also….) Not sure what that is.

I’m having the issue where blinkers/wipers don’t work unless the car is in auxiliary. I replaced relays and fuses, replaced the multifunction switch and still nothing. It seems to be a common problem but the common fixes haven’t worked. Any ideas?

Help i got a 2012 chrysler 200 need security code for radio serial number T00BE227156499

My A/C went out and took it to a shop. They are quoting $3000 to repair. They have the rear evaporator core ($700) expansion valve ($240), all new rear lines ($1150) plus labor and tax. To me this makes no sense if it’s the lines why would they also replace the evaporator and the expansion valve. If it’s the evaporator and the expansion valve why would I need to replace the lines?

Looking at parts on rockauto I see the evaporator for $50 and the valve for anywhere from $12-$25. I also see valves for $125 but these seem to be the front system. Similar I find evaporators $370, appears to be the rear with expansion valve but says valve not included. Am I wrong or are the parts I need closer to $75 for the evaporator and valve than $940?

I have also noticed adds from a company offering replacement rear lines that are high pressure hoses vs metal. Seems risky and easy to nick or cut. Anyone with knowledge or experience, are there any good?

I am fairly handy but I am limited in my knowledge of cars and hvac, how hard is it to do myself? I’ve watched some videos on replacing the evaporator and valve and that seems well within my skill. My concerns are running new lines and charging the system after. Any advice or places to look for this would be appreciated. I’m not sure I’m watching quality YouTube’s.

Is it worth just changing the evaporator and valve myself and seeing if it holds a vacuum before even considered the line?

I have a 2007 Chrysler Town and Country Van with a 3.8L engine. Recently the alternator went bad but at the same time I started having transmission issues (wouldn't go into high gear). Is it possible that the transmission is fine and just getting the alternator fixed will solve my transmission problem?

Under Chrysler and DaimlerChrysler, everyone knew Chrysler was born in 1924. Fiat moved the date to 1925 somewhat arbitrarily... but to celebrate this year, I've written a book, called Century of Chrysler, about the first hundred years. It starts with the creation story and moves on through the years, drawing on interviews, my time at allpar, and so forth. The best buy is the IOS version on Apple Books, but there are Kindle, hardcover, and softcover versions too, the later only at Amazon.

I invite you to take a look... https://amzn.to/3Bdmmcw

My 2015 Town and Country minivan needs a new engine. This feels like bullshit. It only has 100k miles. Is this what we have to accept these days? It will get donated but feels like I've been cheated out of at least 50k miles, maybe 150k. Grrrr Chrysler.

I’m trying to figure out a cylinder two misfire in my wife’s 2014 Town and Country. It’s slightly noticeable at idle, it’s still drives well. I’ve replaced all of the plugs, coils, and injectors. Last year I replaced a couple of bad rocker arms, and checked all of the ones that I didn’t replace, so I wouldn’t think that would be an issue. I don’t have the rocker tick either. What are my next steps, a compression test?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/176522402169?_skw=Chrysler+Town+%26+Country&itmmeta=01JAZ3VMX8WKZQ04HESF751B1E&hash=item29198e1979%3Ag%3AoWEAAOSwga1m6pLt&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0Mxmj%2BiGvOveHXEBClPb29guG6HlCPYjTF1oaH%2BsYr3pKyMU5%2FaXrrXSjH2Tm3lAIXTOn75jx40S5VRnIWuFlWY%2FoXu6s%2BL00DCbSiDYRrRtpmq1l6f3OmeP1VC5%2BP8xk4tGx3d5eF%2Fcy1qxpcviLc7ccnltPSDiGqhoAJgi94VgqfXEMCCWMVvr1JlJAGo3NmiPkANIAQ0H3ojRPW9fqempoi4doruzSdgKmtX84uz3NNl0WJ0qQnWWGQeZhwnjzkQRSEPJ%2FawzdXv0rA8IaWk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR97O7uPXZA&fits=ake%3AChrysler%7Codel%3ATown+%26+Country

https://www.ebay.com/itm/355991009522?_skw=Chrysler+Town+%26+Country&itmmeta=01JAZ3VMX9N24DJV781A62BHWA&hash=item52e2b7b8f2%3Ag%3AAsEAAOSw-2ZmzplU&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8Mxmj%2BiGvOveHXEBClPb29gOj8fOEzBDm%2F%2B07hZriGWo%2BO%2FX5HI2vM2uSSmezgnCMeR1ArCWM5YNdEW6q%2Btk0BRri18qxvjoQFQJuUcK3%2FxTU89gckx8lfEKMPuph4%2BzvJ8QxuMKfyF3K%2BNoV1gfwtUnFIuvZcpJTDQddmVSx6igwauMlzPBKTPGIf1InF7vIJUS2PQGEERP%2FEelusJfR3xTil9ACX95laSSlGkXoi3n%2F1G1zF%2FcfDYuyp7orZefkofLKAWM9ntr7rckxRXgAvNE4XU1yebDH1YUhz1EJfbvTBHuztDUuzEtrAg4eBbjZA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR97O7uPXZA&fits=ake%3AChrysler%7Codel%3ATown+%26+Country

https://shop.exhaustdistribution.com/2011-2016-chrysler-town-country-3-6l-front-left-right-catalytic-converter-50447-50448-2/?srsltid=AfmBOoopraCr3QCi98-2KW9JJVT0q-S8eEuniI33PPTQm4_

I need both, bank 1 and bank 2 catalytic converters, but I have no idea if all of them will be good quality, or if there are any specifications I might need to look for in order to know if they will fit. It’s my first time buying stuff like that really. Sorry if it’s obvious or not a right place to post this. Sorry also for the format of the post, but only one URL can be put in a post in a normal way. Thanks in advance for any help :)

I have a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica that has been experiencing power issues (slow start up) I went and got a new main AGM 12v battery set it up made sure everything was connected no problem, I check the doors with my key fob everything is working fine. I got to turn my car on it begins to crank and then everything shuts off! Key fob does not work to the car anymore nothing! The horn doesn't even work! What did I do wrong and what should I do?

Hey there! I got a Chrysler Grand Voyager 2009 and got some checklights. Wanted to check the error Codes with a obd 2 Reader through a Smartphone app. I already tested it on My Ford Fiesta so i Know it Works. But it has issues to connect to the ecu from my chrysler. The App also ran all protocolls it had while conncting to the ecu. Does anybody has some advice for i would be very thankful

Hello, I want to buy a 2005 crossfire (automatic) can you share with me your experience about what do I need to know about this car before I buy it regarding maintenance, services, and etc.. By the way I live in the U.S. NJ. Any feedback will be very helpful <3

Hey y’all, I’ve got a 2007 Chrysler Sebring and the backlight went out again after I got it fixed, the place tested the cluster over and over again and determined the cluster itself isn’t the issue, it’s likely something wrong with the car. I’m no where ready to get a new car or get this fixed, I work night shift which means I need the light. Is there anyone who can recommend some button lights or something I can put under the cluster itself so I can at least see? Something that’ll get me home. Thanks.

Edit: Sorry I somehow made the post wrong.original post Here's a link to a post on my profile of the issue with video but... It didn't start without fluid and didn't stay running longer than about a minute. So I went to replace the pump, ended up replacing the pump, sending unit, lines, filter, fuelrail, injectors-etc whole fuel system minus the evap system and charcoal canister and such. It now starts and runs but very rough. It's surging when it gets full throttle but sounds ok when it's got partial throttle.

I have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country. Heat and AC in the rear, but nothing in the front. It is not the blower motor as that was just replaced. Any suggestions/advice. I’d love to be able to defrost my front windshield before the snow flies.

Drivers and front passenger doors lock and unlock with automatic lock as does trunk, but rear doors do not. Radio, cd player, and cassette deck work fine. Wipers are good.

But no heat or AC in the front. And it’s not the blower motor.

Advice?

I know it’s possible, but I need a guide on how to do it. I’ll film everything along the way. My plan is to take measurements of both 2014 and 2015 models, or any models after 2015, and see which one is closest to the 2014. Since I’m doing it all myself, my costs will be really low. Yes, safety is a factor, but I think it’ll work out. Plus, I’m only swapping the engine assembly, so it shouldn’t be too complicated. If it does get too crazy, I’ll just go with a different engine and say ‘fuck it.’

CAR DETAILS It’s a Chrysler 200, 3.6L V6, with 213,219 km.

ENGINE PROBLEM The rollers slipped and the rods aren’t working properly casing timing issues and such, causing a knocking and ticking noise. This means the timing will be off and could cause misfires, eventually destroying the engine.

WORK DONE ON THE CAR I’ve already replaced the oil cooler, but I should have taken care of the spark plugs and other things while I was down there. When removing the engine head cap, I was told the threads might come off with them, which would mean I’d have to replace the engine anyway.

OPTIONS FOR FIXING

1.	Take apart my current engine, which is manageable, but I have to hope there’s no long-term damage.
2.	Buy a new engine—but if I’m getting a new one, I want to upgrade it.

CONSIDERATIONS The car has 210k km, and I live in Alberta, Canada, where winters can hit -40°C (-40°F) and summers range from 25°C (77°F) to 30°C (86°F)

Hi

I want to do some performance mods that are not too expensive. I know there is gonna ton of people that are gonna respond to this with anger but I don’t care . Yes I get, it’s Pacifica but I’m stuck with this car for a very long time so I might as well make it enjoyable. I’m 18 so anything helps. If you don’t have anything useful to say then please don’t leave a hate comment.

Just changed my battery today, battery charging system light still on…..hopefully it’s the alternator because I can’t afford anything more expensive

Hey all, I’m having some trouble with my engine and have come to the conclusion that changing the camshaft sensor is the best fix although I’m not sure.

So yesterday, my engine started sputtering on the highway shortly after the check engine light came on. Checked the codes and it threw up a P0344. I had been running it on low gas for a while as things have been rather tight lately but after fueling up and putting some gas treatment in it the sputtering calmed down and doesn’t seem to happen anymore. The engine light is still on though. After watching videos of what to do, I’ve come to the conclusion that changing the Sensor is the best bet. Any thoughts or idea?

Edit: I have an 07 Chrysler Sebring Touring with a 2.7

I started having a problem with my 2.7 liter, 2006 Chrysler Sebring. If I drive it, I might not be able to turn it over again when I need to leave wherever I went. I still have power, I can turn on vents and roll the windows down. I've seen a common issue is fuses, or the bushing on the transmission cable. But I'm able to start the car either the next day or several hours later. My aunt who gave me the car recalled there was a starting issue before, but can't recall what it was.

Hi everyone, i have 2015 Chrysler 200 and i just noticed this blinking light. Does anyone know what it is? This is a passed down car to me so im not as familiar with it!

This Chrysler Aspen has 138k miles, every option imaginable, a tiny bit of aftermarket, and I'm driving it from CO to VA in the next couple of days (then back, then to VA one more time)!

Just thought I'd share cause I love this car so far, and it's getting its first real rest (: