Absolutely a blast. Can't wait to do a long trip once I get more confident as well as get my license lol.

So I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the lighting. I just replaced the 20a fuse last week.

10a fuse, which appears to be the line that goes to the headlights and taillight if I'm looking at the diagram right. The 10a fuse looks alright but no lights. I've trace the wiring.

I am well aware a multimeter would make this signicantly easier. But, I'm kind of suspecting the fuse housing circuit itself? The bike can be on a full battery and no lights. I will make a mention that the turn signals still works. But I ain't exactly good with lines and stuff like that so close together, even colored shaded on paper

2015 Gen 2 When I got it last November it had so much trouble getting up to temp even though it has the thermobob kit installed. But I tested it to make sure it could reach temp and cool off without issue. The fan would click on at around 240 back then. Now if I let it idle it'll get up to 270 before the fan clicks on and I can hear what sounds like boiling if I shut it off there. Can anyone point me in the right direction for diagnosis? Or is this ok in the summer and I just have to top up coolant?

My 2016 is used 90/10 on/off road. Last week I went out on a trail and once I got back on the road it was really jumpy and acting like it wasn’t getting fuel consistently. I shit it down, restarted it, and it started running normal again immediately.

Today, I went through a drive through and when I got done it started doing it again. It idles just fine, but once I put it into gear and get above 10mph, it starts acting like it’s not getting enough fuel and jumping. Tried using the choke and it doesn’t make too much of a difference. Only seems to happen while in gear.

Do I need to clean the carbs or what could be wrong with my bike?

Or is this already below rock bottom?

I recently turned 18 so my father and I have slowly started to look for used cars/bikes for me. We found what seems to be a great 2009 KLR 650 for $2000. I myself dont know much about bikes in regards to different models, mechanics, things to look out for. I was hoping i could get some advice here on common problems, advantages and disadvantages, and just some general knowledge that a rider should have about his bike.

Any help is appreciated 🫡

I recently stripped the 3 rubber gromets with threads? that connect the fairing to the dash frame? I am trying to find replacement parts but I am not sure exactly what part I need from looking at a schematic. It is the rubber part the 3 bolts on the top of the fairing connect to. The 92154 part is just the bolt and doesnt include the threading rubber part? I have the 2023 klr

https://preview.redd.it/7iiyk1xv9jsd1.png?width=655&format=png&auto=webp&s=93c4b82661e8fe037712d10f81d193000df2d145

For some reason, gas has begun leaking from the gas cap area, causing the paint to start melting.

First KLR, loving it!

Got home from a ride Sunday and I’m just now realizing my rear right turn signal is missing the clear plastic cover.

I haven’t dropped the bike on that side in months. Had to have just broken off from bouncing down the road, you can see the part that is held on by the screw is still there.

I'm about to hit 600 Miles on my piggy. Is there a complete kit I can buy to do the oil change. Would you recommend a k&n filter?

Might as well change the name and get it over with

Hi everyone, i can’t find the torque for the cylinder head bolts (12mm) on my 1gen klr 650. Can you help me? Thansk

A Gen 3 KLR gets hit with an EMP, what electronic parts do you think are necessary for the vehicle to operate again (just point A to point B, no need for speedometers)?

Or is it better to try to protect the electronics inside?

Ended up with an extra bearing putting my crank case back together, whoops. Can't find mention of it in videos. Where did this thing come from?

Just curious who’s added an ST2 Brake Module to their Gen 3? I just added one and have some questions. I can’t upload a video here, but the gist of it is that the modulator is supposed to flash the brake light when engine braking or downshifting. Problem is, I turn on my bike and it flashed the tail light in a random pattern when idling (standing still), and in a faster random way when I rev it. Anyone else had this problem?

Gen 2 2012 model.

Changed the rear pads and the wheel is now super tight.

I've let out some brake fluid from the nipple, and no difference. Brake disk has a small lip, so I'm not getting full wear out of my pads, buts that's not the issue here.

Removed the cotter pin and loosened the axle nut. Wheel turns much freerer. Not free. Just freerer.. Makes we wonder if my wheel is aligned properly for chain tension, but is on the marks both side.

Tighten up axle and replace cotter pin... Wheel is tight again. Brake pedal has plenty play.

Took it for a short drive less than 1km, disc is super hot, obviously.

When I replaced the pads, those pistons went in full depth...so I'm sure they are good

What's going on?

Nor sure the how but there it is. Tire split open as if going backwards. Wheel was inflated to 28lbs. 300lbs max on the bike between me and my 8 y/o. Logging road, some blast rock but mostly standard Vancouver island logging road. Heidenau K60 scout less then 3 years old by DOT stamp, not sure milage, was on the bike when I got it. What do you think, finish the season or swap to something else, what are you running?

I just realised i’m leaking this black oily liquid from the rear suspension linkage, i guess it is from the suspension. I never had this problem so before taking down everything and reassemble the suspension i wanted to ask the community some advices. Thank you!

Sorry about yet another doohickey related question; my 2001 klr 650 with 27k kms was riding fine when it lost all power and i had to walk of shame it home. After ruling everything else out, I've torn into the crank case and sure enough the doohickey is in pieces and the spring is missing. I'm a little worried that if I replace the doo and spring ill still have a non starting bike.

Any advice on things to check (timing?) while I have the crank case open, before i put everything back together?

Been combing over the OEM parts list and can't seem to find the little switch that plugs into the spade connectors. It connects to part #46091A. Anyone know the part number or where I can get a replacement?

Update: Found this part https://www.japbikespares.com/kawasaki-klr650-87-18-forseti-front-brake-light-sw by a brand called "Forseti". It looks like the OEM part that is missing in the diagram/that I am having trouble finding. I'm going to order this and see if the part works/fits. Forseti Part #FBS008-K56

My new (to me) bike is missing the tool box that goes in the rear rack. I doubt the tools were very comprehensive but it bothers me to not have that box filling the hole. Where can I get one? (I checked Ebay)

The advice to people, especially on their brand new gen 3 KLRs, that they need to replace the doohickey IMMEDIATELY is just absurd. Y’all act like if people don’t do it RIGHT NOW that their bike is a pending death trap. In my experience, and from the words of so many other KLR owners, and the words of certified Kawasaki technicians, it is not as dire or important as this community makes it out to be.

For you newer gen 3 riders (myself included), don’t replace a perfectly functional, brand new component on a brand new bike just because people had problems with that part 20+ years ago. Why, for the love of God, would Kawasaki make a bike that needs parts replaced as soon as they’re assembled??? The answer is, they don’t.

Just chill out guys, and if it becomes a problem later on, replace it then. These stories of “yep! Replace the doohickey RIGHT AWAY, guys!!! I just hit 75,000 miles on my KLR and it failed on me, so do it now!” Like… yeah? A minor mechanical failure at 75,000 miles… makes sense??? Absurd. Your bikes are fine, go ride.

Hey, I've recently been on a trail with my Tengai, and I had the unfortunate experience of falling in a more difficult spot. Thankfully, both me and the bike were fine, except for the clutch lever, which got caught on a rock and had its end bent significantly. I guess I was lucky it didn't break, since I only have the OEM plastic handguards that can't help in situations like these.
So, before my next adventure off the asphalt, I figured buying some proper metal handguards is a must - the only problem is I can't seem to find any specifically made for the Tengai, and I'm not sure the ones meant for the KLR would fit. I should also mention, I'm looking for something that's ideally available here in Romania, or at least some other european country I can get it shipped from.

On another note, I recently had a problem with leaky fork seals. I had them replaced with OEM ones, since I couldn't find any after market offering that would fit Tengai forks, and now, perhaps a bit too late since the forks are already back on the bike, I was considering buying some fork boots as well. The Tengai comes stock with some blue plastic fork boots, but I bought mine second hand and it didn't have those anymore. Do you guys have any recommendations on some fork boots that fit the Tengai (not OEM ones, they are super expensive)? Also, is it possible to install them without taking out the forks?

I'm also considering getting a fork brace, but I'm not sure if it's worth it, as I can't say I noticed any sort of wobble so far on the bike. And again, I can't seem to find anything for the Tengai...