I have a window AC, gaming PC and monitor running on a 20 amp breaker. It keeps tripping. I have nowhere else to plug them since I live in a small space unfortunately. Is there any way I could change it to a 25 or 30 amp breaker?

my wired speakers black out whenever i use the 15.734khz frequency. whats the reason for it blacking out?

I’m looking to add a ground rod to this home that has a cold water ground. Per 250.54(D)(2)

“A metal underground water pipe shall be supplemented by an additional electrode of a type specified in 250.52(A)(2) through (A)(8)…The supplemental electrode shall be bonded to one of the following: (1)Grounding electrode conductor (2)Grounded service-entrance conductor (3)Nonflexible grounded service raceway (4)Any grounded service enclosure (5)As provided by 250.32(B)”

Would I be able to attach a ground rod to this meter? Since it is the service entrance, has service raceway(s) and would be a grounded service enclosure?

TL;DL. Can I attach a ground rod to this service entrance (250.54(D)(2)

Exactly what the title implies, how would you define a switch leg?

i’ve got this old neon sign that kicked the bucket, was flickering a little when i got it and quickly died once i tried to fix it. the glass itself seems fine but i’m having trouble looking for a replacement transformer. this is the one it came with. any suggestions on a modern replacement?

Is this a crazy idea?

The UK has a toaster I like. They are built within the UK, which I appreciate.

The US sells them too, but in a different color. Also, I think the US versions are built in China.

Suppose I buy both, a US and a UK model.

It seems easy enough to take the US plug and swap it into the UK model.

But I know nothing about voltages and hertz and resistance, etc.

So is this a dangerous idea? Are there other components in there that I would also need to swap? For example, would the heating elements be manufactured differently for the UK voltage, or would that part be the same as the US heating element?

Visually, the only difference I can see is the power cable, but I don’t know if there would be any other components that need to be swapped.

I have a circuit that failed when I turned on a light and got a little flash. I troubleshot the problem and found that when I tested an out let for power and all of a sudden the whole circuit came back online. I replaced the outlet and all is good now. I am not really sure how that took out the circuit and the old plug looked fine and no loose wires. Any thought what the cause was?

I moved into a new condo and noticed that the newly installed electric 38 gallon water heater is on a 50-amp breaker with #8awg wiring. The upper and lower elements show theyre for 4500 watts on the label.

Is it too big of a breaker with too small of a wire?

I found this webpage - https://www.palmerelectric.com/electrical-load-calculator

I have to enter Volt-AMP (VA) but on the name plate of of appliances I can not find VA - I can only find AMP and Volts - so if its dryer and its own dual 30A breaker - I have to multiply 30x240=7200 VA ?

if that is not the correct way - what is the correct way to find VA so I can enter VA on the above page?

Also for bedroom and refrigerator - how to enter VA because on the above page there is no space to enter those rating

We live in a 3 bedroom townhome in MA. Our electric bill is very high and a few times higher than our neighbors. Our usage is between 900 kWh and 1200 kWh, and we can’t figure out what is using so much electricity.

If we look at the meter and compare with our neighbors meters, our is spinning very fast all the time while the neighbors is spinning very slow or not at all. We are friends with our neighbors and discussed our bill and devices for them versus us, and there isn’t any clear difference.

We had for heating, and we have a refrigerator, washer and dryer, dishwasher, and electric stove for appliances. We have 2 laptops and a desktop, 2 tvs, and a handful or more of lamps. We have 2 kids and so do our neighbors.

I’ve tried switching the breaker on/off to find the culprit, and with the computers off, tvs off, washer and dryer off, lights off, the meter is still a few times faster than our neighbors. Unplugging and plugging the refrigerator seems to double the rate that it spins, but even with it unplugged, we are using a lot and basically everything is off in the house (no tvs computers turned on and most lights off).

What can I do? I feel like the meter must be broken or I am missing something because we didn’t have a bill like this before in our 2 bed apartment, and we have the same devices except the washer and dryer.

Thoughts? We are considering setting up a way to cut off power to rooms completely maybe even on a timer because we are consuming a lot even with everything turned off.

I have an island with a mini fridge and a mini freezer.

I wanted to power both off one circuit.

Should I use a 25 amp two pole breaker? I have one left over.

Will 25 amps toast a 12/2 line? Should I go up to 10/2?

TIA

I paid an electrician to run electricity into my pantry which is right next to my in-wall oven and microwave.

Standard 4 outlet receptacle in the pantry running off the same power that goes to the oven and microwave which is 240.

He said I may trip in the pantry if running the oven at the same time. So for example, coffee maker in the pantry while oven was going. I didn't really mind - wasn't going to be running the oven at the same time as really ever doing anything in the pantry.

The pantry outlets work some of the time. I don't think this is on a "tripping" style breaker. Pic attached. Some mornings the pantry outlets have power and sometimes they don't. This is unrelated to whether the oven or microwave is running as I've never even tried the pantry outlets while those appliances were running.

Are the pantry outlets getting too much power? What's the fix? Electrician is ghosting me.

I’d like to stick a WiFi box on the plug to my well so I can turn off the well if/when my wifi water alarm goes off.

Any recommendations?

I bought mislabeled lights so the directions aren’t accurate. I’m hoping I can link 6 of these on one outlet. Is this ok?

What happens if i use megger to test insulation of a motor from start panel , but motor has electronic control card , will it damage electronic part

I had to remove a light post from my driveway and am not sure how to close this up properly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Solved] The consensus is: Yes. Thank you everyone.

I bought an Oral-B Pro 1000 in the US that came with a charger that says on the bottom, "Braun, 110-130V, Type 3757, 50-60 Hz/0,9W."

I am in a 230V country, so I bought a charger that says on the bottom, "Braun, 220-240V, Type 3757, 50-60 Hz/0,9W."

I can charge my toothbrush on the 220-240V charger, but it seems to rotate/vibrate a lot faster than it did before. Is too much current going into the toothbrush, which was only intended for the 110-130V charger? The Oral-B FAQ doesn't seem to say that what I'm doing is wrong: https://www.oralb.ca/en-ca/oral-health/why-oral-b/faq/can-i-use-my-oral-b-electric-toothbrush-charger-abroad-is-the-charger-dual-voltage

But what do you all think? Maybe I'm just paranoid, and I can keep my toothbrush on the 220-240V charger all day long, without it burning up or exploding? Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/t0u66grr6szc1.jpg?width=1109&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2466599191fecdbff9587ceca00d9f7363a61ee0

https://preview.redd.it/9kww6grr6szc1.jpg?width=1477&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5bdececb54bd19dbc80c64868bf18f62f956a2af

Does this need to be a dedicated circuit for these things? 14/2 wire?

To rough in, what order would I run the wire to the boxes? (outlet, switch, fan)?

Hi, I have an outdoor Kasa camera that I want to put on my garage, but the only source of power nearby is my garage lights. Is it possible to hardwire the USB camera to the house power and how would I do that? Thank you in advance for any advice.