Vcc=10V, R1=10k Ohms, R2=15k Ohms, RC=2.2k Ohms, RE=1.5k Ohms and the BJT has β=80. In the DC biasing state, find the currents and voltages at the terminals of the BJT and conclude about the operation of the BJT.

I failed to read the warning on my new space heater, and I’ve gone through life without a single person telling me that you’re not supposed to plug space heaters into extension cords.

Long story short, everything that was connected powered off suddenly when I noticed the extension cord I use was very hot to the touch. I’m now aware that the space heater caused it to overheat. My question is, will waiting for it to cool down fix it, or is it toast?

Sorry if I don't use the right technical jargon, but I am not a native speaker.

Okay, so I got a bit of a weird problem I guess:
In my new home I have a small bathroom with an LED mirror that works fine. It is connected to a switch with a little dim orientation light on it. As the room has no windows, there also was an old vent that was broken. It was connected, but didn't work anymore. So I took it down, bought a new one (same make, newer model) and fitted it. I connected everything (pretty sure all of it correctly) and when I flipped the breaker and got back to the room, the vent and the light were running as expected! I was happy! So I pressed the light switch to turn both of it off, the vent turned off aaaaand the LED strip started to rhythmically blink.

Logically I disconnected the vent, and the light went back to working normally.

Now I've read that the blinking can occur if you have a light switch with one of those orientation lights in it, which as I said, I do. But the fact, that it doesn't do it when I disconnect the vent, kind of confuses me. Could it still be that or what would you suggest? I don't think there's a relay in there, but I'm not sure, so I thought about that as well.

Anyway, thanks for your help.

I've been adding UPSs in my house lately, and the next thing to get one is the entertainment system. The problem is, I've got too many things to plug in for the plugs available on the UPS. It only has a few battery plugs, but I'd like a couple more. I would also like surge-only plugs. NOTE: I have tested my loads, and my planned battery-backed devices will only use about 350w combined at most. Maybe another 300-400w max on the surge-only side for Xbox, Wii, and other miscellaneous thing.

Now, I've heard it is not advisable to daisy chain surge protecting devices, but I've also seen on this sub that it should be fine provided the first in the chain is your best surge rating (ideally) and more importantly, you know your load will not exceed the capacity of any of the units.

My plan was try try to buy some of those shop-syle long power strips that have a dozen plugs or whatever but no surge protection. I could use one or two of those to get more plugs on either bank or the UPS so long as I make sure to manage my loads properly. That said, I am finding it extremely difficult to find any kind of power strip on Amazon that isn't surge protected.

What do you guys think? Should I just daisy chain surge protectors? If not, what the heck do I search for to get non-surge units, or where can I find them outside of Amazon?

Is it safe to use a 4 prong extension cord for my dryer that plugs directly into the existing chord or should I replace the whole cord to the machine with a longer one? Also curious if a 12 gauge extension cord will be sufficient to run my washer. Thank you for any advice very much.

Hello, so I'm an apprentice going through the IEC program 2nd year and was wondering if any journeyman were on here I could ask questions to and get more insight. I am not a commerical or residential electrician. I do street lighting and traffic signals so my hands on learning is limited.

We have two outlets in our bathroom on opposite sides of the room and tonight discovered that neither are working. However, the lights are still working and are in the same circuit as the outlets. I verified that the circuit breaker didn’t trip just to be sure and there is no gfci reset button on the outlets that I can see. Any ideas on what could be happening?

I saw this wire coming out of our house but not connected to the ground. There was a metal pole nearby (3 feet)

Example in a picture

"If a laptop charger is plugged into the wall but not into the laptop, is any electricity flowing through the charger? I was touching the tip of the charger and then touched it more to see if anything was going through. Is there any electrical current present in that case?

Also i was not touching the charger on purpose atleast the 1st time

Putting in a new water heater and wanted a timer to shut off at night. I see an upper and a lower element each rated at 4500w. So the 240v timer box needs to be rated 9-10kw correct? The total watts connected being 4500 is confusing me, I'm sure they both run at the same time.

Hi I want to know if it’s up to code to run 2 lines of 6/2 wire to Nema 14-50?

Is it safe to splice , and then connect the wires for my pre-lit tree ? I put electrical tape over it also. Now the tree lights back up ! I just don’t want to start a fire .

I got a used floor lamp a while ago and I can't see anything on it indicating the manufacturer. It's like the CB2 big dipper and it's dimmable.

I got it with these two large LED led corn bulbs.

It was working for months with my broadlink smart bulbs but now it only works with those led bulbs I got it with.

Every other bulb flickers but the big LED corn bulb works without issues.

EDIT

Ok it's crate and barrel so I'm pretty sure it's the meryl arc floor lamp.

It says accommodates 16w CFL or 150W incandescent.

My broadlink are 10W could it be that it's below the minimum wattage?

I also should emphasize it was working with the led bulb for a while but now it doesn't. Maybe it never really worked 100% but nothing changed. It happens with all my led bulbs now so I hope I didn't ruin the lamp! At least the big corn bulb works 100% without issue still. I order a 16w led smart bulb to test (I want smart bulbs everywhere).

We are looking into options regarding led recessed lights. In our old house, we had standard can style lights that we converted to led's. This worked well for what it was. Most of the Led fixtures I see now have a simple plate style design that is cut into the drywall after it's installed. This worries me with regards to the blow-in insulation. Are the can style still a thing anymore? Opinions?

My bathroom has one circuit. There are 3 switches, two for lights and one for the exhaust fan. There are also two GFCI-controlled outlets. Sometimes I mistakenly flip the fan switch when I wanted the light. Every once in awhile the GFCI trips when I turn the fan off quickly, maybe about 1/2 second.

I am in a wind energy project for my college that is creating a test stand for students to test their own wind turbine rotor blades for a class on our campus. My team is using two Air 40 48 V wind turbine generators that are rated to be 160 W and already outputs DC voltage with its built-in rectifiers. These generators are going to connect to their own separate Primus Wind Control Panels that has an ON/OFF switch for the generator as well as a circuit breaker. The panel also has a display that is able to read the generator's voltage, current, energy, and power output. The issue I have is that my group has decided to use a heater as a load for each one of the generators that will also be connected with the control panel. Currently, I can't find a good heater to use to connect as majority of the ones that I can find are corded electric devices. I am posting this to ask for advice for what heaters I can possibly use or if there is a way for me to use these corded electric devices with the DC output of the generator. If there is an alternative loaded that can be used to be powered by our generators then it is welcomed as long as it can be powered by a DC source.

Air 40 48 V generator manual: https://www.primuswindpower.com/files/8514/2973/5527/Primus_Air_Manual_English.pdf

Heater that was being considered: PTC Car Heater

Figure 1. Back of the Primus Wind Control Panel being used

I recently insulated my garage and installed a cheap 5000 watt electric heater to heat it above freezing during the colder months. Because the heater just has a basic switch and not a true thermostat and because it's mounted up towards the ceiling I put an Honeywell CT410B 4-wire line thermostat to control the temp.

I know this style thermostats is probably not the most accurate in ideal conditions but I've been having trouble with it and not sure why. I used 10ga wire and a 30-amp circuit as recommended but the heater kept kicking off well before reaching the temp indicated on the dial. I noticed that it was building up heat in the box over time which was then causing the thermostat to cut power to the heater. This isn't really noticeable until it's been running for a while and isn't noticeable at all if it's set to a lower temp.

I used wire nuts that were rating for 10ga wire and I've redone them several times thinking perhaps it was a poor connection causing it to heat up. It is admittedly hard to get a great connection between the stranded wire on the thermostat and the rigid/thick 10ga wire so the braided wire seems to mainly wrap around the 10ga when tightening down the wire nut, could that be the issue?

I also used a fiberglass box that seems to trap the heat and allow it to build up more so I'm thinking perhaps it's undersized for housing these connections.. I took the cover off and let it run and it did seem to get to a higher temp before turning off but still below the indicated temp on the thermostat by quite a bit. I noticed that positive wire nut would be warm but also that wire coming off of the thermostat itself so perhaps that is to much for this thermostat to handle?? On the heater itself it can be switched to 3000w, 4000w and 5000w so if that is more then the thermostat can handle I could perhaps try keeping it at 4000w instead and just have it run more to reach the desired temp...I wonder if that would help?

https://preview.redd.it/3hndjigxqa2e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3ae8c5ced1eabf42d54c19d7cfa3d3e2ed19daf

https://preview.redd.it/fjazfigxqa2e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf12db5bd85f7f49a1c6e50ba3145e471db292f4

My power went out for about 15 minutes the other night and in the morning a bunch of outlets weren’t working. I reset two GFI breakers and one GFI outlet and that fixed almost everything.

The problem is one single outlet in my kitchen didn’t come back on. I know it worked before because the coffee grinder has been plugged into it for years.

The outlet is along my kitchen counter, and all of the other counter outlets work. The house is new enough that I expect modern code was followed, so it should be on the same circuit as those other counter outlets. The first of them (closest to the panel) is GFI, which I’ve reset a few times now.

No other outlets in the house are dead.

Any idea what could be going on here? I’m going to replace the GFI outlet to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

Hi I’m hoping someone can help me. My power usage doubled from Septembers bill to Octobers bill with no change to usage or anything extra plugged in. The usage for October is equivalent to the power we used in January of this year when we had vehicles plugged in, extra heaters in our well house and the furnace and fireplace running pretty steady. I had an electrician come out and he couldn’t find anything to explain the extra power usage. I now have to pay the power company $250.00 to come test the meter which takes 2 weeks. My question is, at the power pole we are drawing 14 amps pretty steady, can someone convert this to how many kWh that would be in a month. Even if we used 25 amps for the calculation to include things like water pump running, doing laundry etc. it’s only myself and my husband here so those things are minimal usage. Any ideas or help on this is appreciated!