RULES

So I’m 35, good enough shape. Familiar with working outdoors and physical work. College dropout but smart enough I think with a 90percentile SAT score.

It seems like a job of puzzles. That’s got tediousness and math and problem solving. And I’m looking for something with some level of autonomy, and deference to my knowledge. And intellectually stimulating. My work history isn’t related but I believe I have the skill set.

I get there’s a spectrum of job types but am I anywhere in the ballpark of the job description?

I want to update the electrical panel in my house and I’ve used the above panel before without plug on neutral. Now that I’m looking for another one I can only find the panels with plug on neutral option.

Is that the only thing available now because of how many AFCI and GFCI breakers are required?

Any advice is welcome!

3 options I have in mind

use the 16amp outlet and run an adapter to plug sockets.

purchase a generator for more power. (would need advice on specs)

Power my equipment with gas

I'm in my summerhouse with a dead car battery because I left the keys in the ignition.

I do have this AEG battery charger and a spare PC power cord that I could use to hook it up. Would this work and be safe to do?

We have 12 dimming recessed cans in our basement in an older house (1955). Since we moved in, we have been blowing through lightbulbs wake quicker than anywhere else in the house.

After a few weeks to a month and a half, the bulbs would start flickering to varying degrees then start burning out. Now, even new bulbs start out very dim.

One interesting thing is that bulbs slowly dim when we turn off the switch. They dont just turn off immediately.

Any suggestions on a potential cause? We have an electrician coming out but earliest is next month. I still want to have a professional look things over but I'd like to improve the lighting in the meantime if possible and prevent any bigger issues.

I am trying to get a rough idea of what to expect to pay for having 2-3 outlets added to our garage. The panel is in the garage and the walls do not have any drywall/insulation currently so nothing would need to be torn open. The outlets would be less than 10 feet from the panel.

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I had one guy here for an unrelated issue and he quoted me about $1200 but wasn't sure if that was unreasonable. I'm based in Charlotte, NC.

Hello all. I have a frustrating issue I would like to get your input on.

I have been having problems with my dishwashers breaker tripping. My dishwasher trips. I would unplug the dishwasher and reset the breaker. When I plug the dishwasher back in it trips immediately. I tried reseting the breaker and plugging a phone charger in. It worked as normal. I then tried plugging the disposal in the same outlet and the breaker tripped immediately again.

This doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes everything appears to work. I called to have an electrician look at it the other day and of course everything was working just fine. Then today the same issue happened where it trips when an appliance with the ground prong is plugged in.

I was certain it was an issue with the dishwasher but it seems like the outlet may have an issue as well.

Any ideas on what's going on?

Few receptacles and switches aren’t working around the living room and bedroom. I started with a receptacle that was working and went on to the next and the next one. I have a voltage meter and every receptacle showed proper voltage hovering around 120v.

I changed one receptacle down the line thinking it was the receptacle but it still didn’t work.

What am I missing? Do I have to change every receptacle down the line? A loose neutral? (I didn’t see any from a few receptacles I opened). Also, the receptacles are very old and are the back push in ones, does that maybe have something to do with it not working down the line?

If the main heading isn't clear, I'm going to add a subpanel to my basement when I finish it. Should I run new circuits for the stuff that is currently wired into the main panel for the stuff in the basement for easier maintenance and cleaning up my main panel? I have the furnace, water heater, washer and dryer down there.

Got this from a building inspector. He said the fuse used in the picture is a "chair leg". I thought it was some new electrical term that I wasn't familiar with.

Needless to say, this did not pass inspection.

Edit: Yes - this is actual leg from an aluminum chair cut to match the length of the fuse.

https://preview.redd.it/frapy9j6qe5b1.png?width=287&format=png&auto=webp&s=689ebbab227c9094512760feddf7a48ad627caab

This outlet is controlled by a light switch that also controls the ceiling light. How do I fix the wiring to change the outlet to always hot?

We have an enclosed 12’x40’ enclosed patio on the back of our house. Two of the sides are the exterior walls and the other two are screened. For some reason, only a single receptacle was install at the far end and it would be great if we had two more.

The first local would be on the opposite side of the master bedroom where a receptacle exists. The circuit is already on a GFCI breaker.

The second is would be on the opposite side of a living room receptacle which is not on a GFCI circuit.

This seems like a straight forward installation but wanted input from the pros before I start cutting into the walls.

Had a wiring job done a few days back. The cost for the 75' of 10AWG wire on the invoice is 2x the price that I would pay walking into Home Depot. About $200 vs $450...not a massive amount, but also not pennies either. Same brand, specs, everything.

I politely asked the electrician about this and he said that he gave it to me "basically at cost" and that this is what his parts house charges.

Is it me, or does this seem a bit off?

Edit: Those of you coming in here as condescending jags...here's the full context:

We just spent $20k (without complaining) with this electrician re-wiring our entire house,and then 2 months later we found out that we needed this additional circuit added for a new kitchen appliance. Electrician said he'd give me "a good price" since it was a very simple job...literally just running 75' of 10AWG through an easily-accessible attic to the breaker. Instead, he sends three 20-year-old apprentices that took most of the day, because one of them appeared to be trying to train the other two, and I'm staring at a $2,300 bill for something I could've done myself.

So yeah, I'm gonna question stuff.

Edit 2: some of the guys raking me across the coals on this are ridiculous. "How dare I question any part of the process or the prices". Lol. Some of y'all are the same ones who would get a bill for $1,000 to replace the brakes on your car, and excoriate the dealer for 'ripping you off'. God forbid someone be trying to process sticker shock, or express confusion that the electrician's words didn't match up with the invoice that I received. Smh.

Hi, thanks for looking, I've had good help on here before :)

I want to replace the existing fitting (top left and right of image) with a metal one (bottom left of the image). As you can see, the metal one has 2 extra earth wires compared to the existing fitting.

There's only one wire coming into the fitting from the ceiling. Assuming the metal rose fits this mount, would it be ok to wire the live and neutral wires of the new fitting as before, and wire the 2 new earths into the earth terminal?

And if the metal rose does not fit this mount, I could replicate the setup using a pendant light terminal block like this? https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-de3shbor73/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/3558/89154/ctv2vdvxlf4__11053.1677587017.jpg?c=2

Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YSPPG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had bought this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-Type-BR-35-Amp-2-Pole-Standard-Trip-Circuit-Breaker/3006469

But it technically worked but doesn't fit properly under the metal plate cover: https://imgur.com/a/E3Ud27R

Hard to see but bottom half of breaker is below the opening and I would need to push/bend plate to get closed

Would a square D one fit better than a Eaton? https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-HOM235CP-Homeline/dp/B00CONKJ8O/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3W1NGH7KSFHCH&keywords=square+d+35+amp&qid=1686479477&s=hi&sprefix=square+d+35+amp%2Ctools%2C79&sr=1-7

Hi all

Im trying to figure out what could be the issue here.

I have a Consumer Unit in my garage but it keeps tripping the RCD on the main CU in the house but only when I activate the sockets.

There are 5 sockets in the garage and I’ve opened them and ensured all LNE connections are secured properly but the same issue persists.

Is there anything else I can try?

I’ve uploaded photos of each CU

https://i.imgur.com/uyUTzt1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bLpBSOa.jpg

So we just had a bad bit of storms go through the Houston area and power kept going on/off for awhile then finally came back on after a few hours once the storm was out the area. Laying in my bed watching tv (it’s an insignia fire tv) it just randomly shuts off and I see my directv box that’s plugged into the same outlet also reset. I try to turn the tv back on it eventually does the same thing but this time I happen to have my closet light on and noticed that light flickered as as well and seems like my wifi upstairs resets itself. I’m assuming something shorted or was a culprit of the power surge, any ideas or suggestions on the next steps to take to make sure everything is safe and gets working normally again?

Thanks!