We’re hoping to replace our 24 year old system with more reliable furnace and air condition units for two story house with 1800 sq ft of living space. What brands would you recommend and which one should we stay away from ?

Have a old lennox(sorry dont know the correct spelling) furnace that us struggling to keep up. I have contacted my landlord a handful of times and so far they have replaced the control board and the thermostat. They claim the furance is now “running” while this is true it is not pushing very much heat at all through the vents. I have installed a new filter 2 times as the first one bought was to thick per say. So i went with a merv 1 as that what was used for years. Where the gas exhausts out of the house through a chimney stack the inside wall in my dining room gets really warm to the touch. Should i be worried about how warm my wall gets? When i asked my landlord he said it was normal that the walls get hot

I have a Navien NRCB199 combi boiler/hot water heater that is throwing a error code 20 (high limit switch) and popping the thermal relief valve. I have tried performing a flush cycle and cleaning all strainers etc with no luck.

It seems like no water is getting through the heat exchanger in the heating circuit, it's that thermal relief valve that is opening up as well.

Thoughts?

First, I’m not knowledgeable at all about how exhaust is supposed to be set up coming from the furnace.

Backstory, 2 months ago, we had our roof repaired and the roofer realigned/properly fastened the exhaust piping for everything on the roof. Yesterday, I noticed this exhaust piping was not attached at all to the furnace. I assumed it was accidentally moved out of place during the roof repair. I moved it back over into place, but it’s not long enough to fit down into the furnace. It just sits on top of the exhaust port. Also, the piping started to separate in the other circled area when I moved it back into place.

My question is, is it ok to leave it like this until I can get a professional to look at it? I was assuming that the exhaust piping is acting like a vacuum to the outside and will just suck everything out to the outside. The unfortunate part is that this pipe has been completely detached from the furnace for some time. Our intake vents are in each room of the upstairs so I’m not sure how potential carbon monoxide exhaust could’ve been playing into circulation.

Thanks for any advice.

I know my Central Heat is pretty dirty I'll clean it, but I got home and saw it was cold, I look inside the heater and couldn't figure out what was wrong until I poked the cords with a plastic stick and when I did, it sparked and worked for a little while after it stuttered, everything was normal until it reached the temp I put it at, after that it wouldn't trigger again until I unplugged the cord it and pulled it out the wire and put it back in.

Don't have any knowledge of these and I'm not fond of poking and sparking wires in my home, and was wanting to know what could be the issue? And wondering if it's something that can be easily fixed or requires something serious. The blower motor and everything else seems to function just fine it's just the grey cord that's giving me a issue.

Thank you very much in advance for taking the time to read this post and possibly give insight!

I recently purchased a RP1724AJVCA/RH2T2417SEACJA 18.5 Seer system. Yesterday we installed in my home from a qualified individual, however he does not speak one word of english, but I can mostly understand him as my Spanish is getting better. The system looks great, I'm using the EcoNet3 thermostat. We are in the rural WNC mountains and the temperature is now getting below freezing. I did not purchase the heat strip kit because on the specifications it mentioned this system could heat with stability down to 8 degrees Fahrenheit. I've been running the system since 3am, its now 6am. It will not rise above 65 degrees. This is a newer home, with very little draft and very proper insulation. The air blowing out of the ducts is warm, but not very warm. I unfortunately don't have a temperature gun to measure the temp. I'm wondering what could maybe cause this in a brand new system? The existing system was a 2 ton Lennox Elite propane furnace. It was very noisy, and also didn't seem to heat very well. (Would take hours to heat the house up to temp) I am planning to replace the upstairs system that was a 1.5 ton, with the same system I bought for downstairs (Rheem/Ruud). Any insight would be very helpful. I have a 90lb wife with zero body fat that is going to be on my ass in no time about this. Thank you again very much in advance!

This issue only happens at night but from looking at other posts and stuff online, it looks like this has to do with the duct work.

Right now with it being winter at night, we hear a popping noise almost sounds like a water drop dropping on sheet metal.

From what I’ve read it could be due to ducts expanding as it heats and cools.

I can isolate the vents the noise is coming from (as in I can tell you which floor vents in my master the noise is coming from) but I’m not sure how to find where in the duct work the issue is.

I went down into my basement at night when I could hear the noise in my room but could not hear any popping.

My worry is that the duct or ducts creating the issue are inaccessible from the basement where the furnace is.

Any idea how I can solve for this? Going nuts getting woke up consistently at night from the popping.

I have a pet bird and I want to turn on the heating but I worry there might be teflon in there.

Hello r/hvacadvice

I would really love your advice. I am based in the UAE, which is extremely hot, humid and dusty. I had to replace my entire AC system for multiple reasons, the main one being the ducts have mold in them and the sound insulation with rockwool had fallen out (also the AC units were very old, used R22 refrigerant etc. etc.).

Now I am installing new ducted split systems (Carrier with an inverter with R410-a refrigerant), where the fan coil unit is concealed in the ceiling, and the compressor unit is on the roof. I have a total of 7 such units. I am conflicted about what type of duct + insulation to use and could use your recommendation. My selection criteria is durability, mold resistance, sound and easy to clean. I don't want to deal with mold (I have young kids), the insulation/rockwool falling out again, and when cleaning the ducts the companies here use a robot. Some people recommend the phenolic pre-insulated duct, others recommend the GI duct. Even if I go for the GI duct, I am unsure what is the best type of insulation to use (rubber or polyethylene or?).

What are your suggestions? On another note, I plan to use CARB certified zero ozone producing ionisation filters from Plasma Air, I seen a lot of divided opinion on those, so it's not the main topic of my post, but always appreciate the 2 cents.

Hi folks, I have built a home office and am wanting to put a split system aircon in but am running into an issue with which size units to pick.

The room is 3.1 x 3.4m so it's not huge but it has a lot of heat-generating equipment in it. There are four computers (one being a gaming pc that is pretty much a heater), a 12U network rack with a 48-port poe switch, router, NAS and a printer. It's mostly empty for now but there is some more equipment to be added, a couple servers in the rack, an NVR and some other bits and bobs.

To summarise - the room gets pretty hot. I can't currently keep everything left on at the same time as I have sweat rolling down the back of my neck just trying to sit in the room. I'm in Australia and it's currently summer, which doesn't help.

I did have an aircon mob out to quote on a multi split system. I'd like a ceiling cassette in the office and another one in the living room which is in the next room, going back to the one outdoor unit.

They've suggested a 2.5kw system in the office but I just wanted to ask other people whether this is likely to be sufficient? I don't think the aircon guy believed me when I mentioned how much gear is going to be in this room and how hot it all gets when it's run together.

I want to avoid ending up with an under-sized system. But I've also read that buying an oversized system is just as bad because the constant cycling will cause it to fail early and result in increased humidity, which would also be bad for my electronics.

If anyone is able to help with an opinion on whether a 2.5kw system would really do the job for this sauna I'd appreciate it, thankyou!

edit: forgot to add. two walls have full-height windows, one faces east and cops the sun until midday-ish. the other faces north but leads to a patio so doesn't cop direct sun

Just had a new unit installed it worked for an hour now it’s just blowing cold air, opened the panel and it turns out the tech kinked the rubber condensation hose while he was hooking it to a cpvc line now it trys to start and and gives me a “pressure switch open” code, I cut the cpvc in two and drained it and also unkinked the line but six hours later it’s still acting like it wants to start but fails

Recently had to have an HVAC technician come out on a weekend daytime call (Saturday). Furnace would not fire up. I thought pilot light was out. Apparently there's no pilot light any more. I had already taken panel off looking for pilot light so he just had to diagnose the problem. Total time of weekend visit was less than 1 hour. He determined that the inducer motor was bad and would have to order the part and come back during the week to install after part arrived. That service call was over $300. Monday he ordered the part after quoting me over $900 for parts, shipping, labor. Is this a normal price or is it high? It was too cold to pick around and find someone else, so I just paid it, but now I want to know. Thanks

I have a Daikin 12.5kw single phase ducted system. Recently through up an U0 error (Low refrigerant)

Had this topped up and fixed.

Now when cooling is on, the compressor runs for a minute, blows out cool air, then stops. After 5 mins, turns on for a minute, blows out cool air, then stops. It's a continuous cycle of this.

On test mode, compressor starts, runs for a few minutes then stops.

No error codes are showing up.

Any advice will be appreciated

This cycle happens once when I turn off the power to the unit then turn it back on. Once the blowers turn off, no matter what I have the thermostat set to the unit will not turn back on. Any idea what could cause this?

This has been going on for sometime and I thought I can try to fix things before calling an hvac tech. This happens when the temp outside is cold (~ 33 F) especially overnight when we keep the thermostat at 64F and kick the heating schedule at 7am to reach 71F.

On top of what I said in the title, after reading online about overheating and tripping the high limit switch, I wanted to change it but I can't reach to it to replace it (tight spot).

Today, it showed the yellow flashing code of 13 (LIMIT OR FLAME ROLL-OUT SWITCH LOCKOUT). I'm aware of the 3 hour reset so I turned off the power to the furnace because I was heading out anyway. When I came back, I turned it on and it worked.

This is annoying because it's a constant occurrence during the winter season. Any ideas to check before shelling some $$$ on hvac tech?

I am getting a single wall mounted heat pump Installed All included - the technician is giving me price as

• goodman series 26 - 18000 btu - 6500$
• gree 18000 btu - 4300$
• mistubishi - 18000 btu - 5700$

Which one is the best model to go for Does the prices make justice?

Thanks in advance and sorry if I did this post wrong, I know the rules say to list stuff about your furnace but I don’t know how to figure any of that out.

I rent and i noticed the house was getting cold so I looked at the furnace and I saw this. Im contacting the landlord tomorrow but I’m afraid this is dangerous and I’m unsure whether I should turn the furnace off or how to do that. I can feel air coming from the hole it’s really strong like pushes my hand back a little.

If you need any info let me know what it is and I’ll try to provide it.

I am new to this house (closing date was last Friday) There are 3 oil furnaces in the house, 4 heating zones, forced air. One of those furnaces has a zone control board attached to it (EWC NCM300) I assume this furnace heats 2 zones.

There are 4 thermostats, 2 on the first floor, 2 on the second floor.

Since we haven't moved in, I keep the temperature at 50 for all 4 zones. Heating in all 4 zones should all work (if I increase the temperature setting, furnace would start and there would be hot air) The basement is heated. it should be controlled by one of the thermostats (at least that's what I think)

Problem: After a few days, I noticed that the furnace with zone control board would kick on and blow hot air to the basement, but only to the basement. There is absolutely no hot air blowing in any of the rooms upstairs (which is understandable since the room temperature is higher than the set temperature) But what wakes up that furnace? and why it's only blowing hot air to the basement?

Today the weather is unseasonably warm (high is 61) and I was there in the new house for about 2 hours, that furnace did not kick on.

Any idea? TIA!

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I am installing a bypass humidifier and am looking for some opinions on which way to route the bypass duct. Option A would take off of a sloped part of the supply duct. Option B would take off from a straight part of the supply duct but would require moving the existing flue pipe.

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Yes, I am aware a steam humidifier is superior... It's not in the budget and I got this bypass one on a great deal. I already have a valve on hot water supply, so I will not be using a saddle valve.

Hi all, I live on the ground floor of an apartment, my furnace is on the ground floor and the chimney (PVC) runs up 5 stories and out of the roof of my building. When we are running heat and the blower is running, our CO alarm does not go off, but 1-2 hours after we stop using our heat and the blower turns off, our CO alarms go off (The alarm closest to the flue goes off), and when we open the windows, it vents out and goes back to 0ppm within 10-15 minutes. We think it is CO in our flue cooling down and coming back down the flue. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to remedy this? Also, it seems that one of the joints of the flue is not completely sealed, so perhaps the CO is leaking out of that space. We will fix that asap, but i still presumably would need to deal with the CO staying in the flue as well.

I am looking to install a new heat pump to replace my electric heating element heating. The coldest it typically gets outside in my area is 40°F. My thermostat is typically set to 80°F.

Will the heat pump have a harder time achieving the 80°F temperature compared to the electric heating element I have now?

Thanks!