I’ve got a diesel generator setup that currently requires me to manually start it during power outages. It’s a bit of a hassle, especially when it happens unexpectedly, so I’m looking to automate the process using Arduino. I’ve attached images of the panel to help visualize what I’m working with.

When I press the off button, it takes about 30 seconds for the generator to fully shut down.

From my understanding, I’ll likely need to emulate the start and stop buttons through Arduino, sending the required signals/voltage to the relevant buttons to engage or disengage the generator as needed.

I’ve shared this in a few related subreddits to get as much feedback as possible.

Link containing images

Hello y'all so me and a friend are doing our college project on a motion detected ambient light sensor and well this is our circuit so far and we needed help with it as we are not experienced at all lmao

Issue #1:We thinks there's connection problems with the PWM(NE555)

Issue #2: we're not too sure how relays(song Chuan) work yet and we also need help on putting the latch back to its original place when the user turns the whole thing off

Hi! Sorry for using a throwaway, trying to surprise my friends next year!

So I'm working on a Halloween costume for next year that uses RGB lighting. I’m working on a Halloween costume for next year that incorporates RGB lighting and patterns, and I'm looking for some guidance on getting started. My vision involves using about 5 RGB strips and a controller to create a effect. I have limited experience with Raspberry Pi's, "enough" experience with python, no experience with Arduinos, and I am comfortable with soldering if necessary.

Because this is my first time doing something like this I have some questions about the wiring, power, controller recommendations (being controlled from my phone is a big plus!).

Any advice would be appreciated!

Hello everyone, I Had a project I wanted to work on using a Rasberry Pi with a 7-inch screen. I came across a video that showed a man peeling an LCD polarizer off a monitor and taping the polarizer onto his glasses, essentially making what he's viewing invisible to anyone without the filter. I am looking to use the HAMTYSAN Rasberry Pi screen as a mini display to watch videos at work unnoticed. Do you think I can jerry-rig the polarizer off of this screen or does this method only work for older LCD monitors? Thank you

At the End is the TL;DR if you don't want to know the "why".

Hey everyone, I'm planning to replace my old wired doorbell with a radio one.
But we spent some good money to get the buttons custom fit into the wall, and I'd like to piggyback off that.
I already looked at the inside of the old panel, and it's just a simple 5V button that goes to the old ISDN thingy (idk what it's exactly, it predates my existence, and I'm 24).
But since it's hellish outdated, it doesn't work anymore, and hence we have no doorbell, so I'd really like to have a functioning doorbell by the end of the year.
I already have an old wireless Doorbell that works, but we didn't install it, since it “didn't match the aesthetics of things”.

So, here's my plan:

1. Open the button case from the bought doorbell and wire the electronics to the old button, so the old button triggers the new circuitry

2. Place the “Bell” part of the Doorbell in the house to have a temporary solution.

3. Figure out what frequency exactly the doorbell is using, so I can build a DIY version with a Raspberry Pi myself. (I tried googling the Radio Transmitter, but I couldn't find ANY documentation, not even in Chinese.)

4. Program a Home Assistant integration for said Pi.

I have a general Idea of how to do 1 and 2, but I have no idea how I can figure out the right Frequency using my PI, and would highly appreciate help.

TL;DR:

I want to build a DIY wireless Doorbell, want to piggyback off an old, but still working, Doorbell I've found in the Attic, but don't know how to build the receiving end of the whole thing, since I cannot find any documentation about the transmitter used online. Help Wanted.

Three wires only; blue still connected to a twisted pair of stator windings; and I have a red and a white wire; each burned-off the windings. They attach to another twisted pair, and a singleton from the windings - which color to which?

As you can see, most of the pads were ripped off the pcb as well. Anyone ever fixed a problem like this? I suspect that with a better setup it could be done.

Hello,

I'm a trained electronic technician, but don't know much about the possible connector's in a laptop. Recently I bought a HP 255 G10 laptop, I didn't cared in the beginning, but now I'm really annoyed, that I don't can see the keys with the letters.

I didn't yet opened it up, but my idea would be, as the LED lights can be always on when my laptop is on, that I put some small background lights in the laptop and connect them to the power regulator output for the internal voltage regulator.

Do you have tried something like this or any idea what I can work with? I'm curious to see, as I didn't found much information so far about it.

So this USB port in my couch was broken recently (the pins snapped off and out), and i would fix/replace it.

I can’t really find a way to get under it from behind the couch, so im wondering if theres a way to do this.

Thanks!

I cant for the life of me get this component back out, I've tried solder wick with flux and a solder sucker and nothing is working, am i done for?

New to repairing electronics, using a multimeter I've determined that there is no voltage across the motor. Its stamp says RS555PM 18V DC. The manufacturer Einhell kindly show a parts list and I can find the part here for 30 euros plus postage.

There seem to be tons of very similar DC motors, for a fraction of the price, such as this and this, however I cant find any alternatives with a threaded shaft.

The current motor stopped working after being dropped on the floor so I'm guessing something has came loose, but cant get in there to find out. it also seems dirty and full of black metal filings.

How do I proceed? if anyone has any advice on disassembly of an RS555 motor, of knows where I can get a threaded replacement at a good price I would be very grateful. Thank you.

It's cracked but i guess you notice it😅

Hey there everyone, I have been looking to create a little project up and was wondering if anyone else has seen someone else do this. I would like to create a USB dongle that acts like a HID, and in that dongle I want BT to connect to my phone to be able to use my phone as a keyboard and Mouse on a computer. I do not want to have to install drivers, or have to do any setup on the PC. I'm an IT administrator and would rather just carry a small dongle around to customer sites so I always have a mouse and keyboard in case I need it.
I was thinking of using a NRF52840 as my microcontroller since it already can act as a HID and has BT build into it. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or places to look first.

Much appreciated.

Hey there

I am currently assembling a very small DIY project inlcuding a stepper motor (17HS4401S 1.3A) controlled via a TMC2209 and an Arduino Uno behind that. Ive got everything running via a 9V external power supply but would ideally want to power everything without the need to have an external power supply.

I have a used 9V battery which wasnt really enough to power the motor. Could I run for example two new 9V batteries in parallel to power the motor? I know that the motor will drain the batteries quickly but thats honestly okay for me. As long as I get 10 mins of runtime out of the motor I am more than fine as the motor doesnt move a lot.

When the motor is trying to move the batterie drops down to 7.3V. So I guess two or more parallel batteries should be good then?

Sorry for posting a question which shows that I have little knowledge of the topic.

Do I need to solder to the GPIO pins? Or buy some kind of connector ?

https://preview.redd.it/01fcn0k782yd1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5392fa60b2637bda4be95a48400427de8feed13

My dad and I have difficulties fixing this due to the loose wire as picture above. All of the YouTube tutorials yell us it's a snap and fix and we're very confused. Please help reddit 🙏

I have a car which connects to Android auto through usb. I wanted to make it wireless. I want to make feasible using a esp32 since Raspberry Pi zero or Rasberri Pi 4 are quite expensive. Is it possible in anyway to do it?

we're trying to make a pcb using presensitized pcb. for our first attempt, we only exposed it for 90s(as per the instruction of the purchased pcb) and the developing solution(lye) did nothing. in the picture (our second attempt), we exposed it for 6 mins and got this. it took a bit of time to show the traces. we're not sure if it's bc of the exposure time or the developing solution that the traces aren't complete

Hello, lurker here that's a very amateur electrician. I can wire outlets to breaker boxes to code, connect and solder wires in automotive but my knowledge of relays, switches, and solenoids are very limited so while I know what I need, I do not know what to call it to purchase one. Or if it exists?

I have a diesel truck with a high idle function. The ECU requires a single pin to ground, and trigger a high idle.

I live in Canada and have a remote starter system installed that has two auxiliary positive 12V outputs that I can control from my phone. I want to tie one into a high idle switch.

So, I understand that I could use a grounded relay, however the signal is only momentary and I would also like to manually(physically) be able to flip the switch on or off when I am in the vehicle.

Is there a sort of solenoid with a physical switch that I could at the very least turn "on" with a momentary positive 12V signal, and then later physically turn off manually?

Thank you in advance for any advice!!

I'm broadcasting an UHF video channel from my Raspberry Pi which this picks up (using a UHF transmitter chip from Aliexpress). It tells the current time set to a backdrop of about an hour of vintage digital computer animation art by Lillian Schwartz, Ken Knowlton, and Robert Darroll, as well as other random "nostalgic" video artifacts like Space Invaders, VHS color screen, and footage from the old Atari Video Music visualizer.

I need to buy a relay that has went. Is there a store in Toronto that might sell these products? Is it necessary for me to buy the exact same manufacturer for a replacement or can I simply replace with the same rely form another company?

working on a special project for child, looking for a latching micro switch (similar footprint to picture), current switch is a OMRON V-32-3A3 NO. it's to function as a light so need long arm for actuation switch

https://preview.redd.it/s9fxv5gk6zxd1.jpg?width=368&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=89d1f8244678b3019da2f1c79d0ba6b40bb16e1e

So, I am building a custom LED controller for my old high school robotics team. It takes a 12V input and then steps it down to 5V up to 5A. It's based on an Arduino Nano, and it can control Addressable LEDs and those 4-pin Common, R, G, B LEDs.

The front copper layer is for signal wires, and the back layer is for power.

Right now all of the trace widths including power are 0.2mm, I know I need to make the traces larger to handle the higher current but I am confused about whether I should use ground and power planes, buses, or just size up each trace. Thanks and I appreciate all the help

I've bought a couple of old Herbert Terry Anglepoise lamps, a model 90 task lamp and a 1227. They came as spares or repair with the plugs cut off but I wired them to a plug and both the old and original bayonet style fixtures still work with new LED bulbs. I'd like to fit one with a cool light and one with a warm light, I have cognitive issues with light after a brain injury so adjusting the brightness is important. I imagined this would have been pretty straightforward as I was using dimmable COB lighting 6 years ago for growing plants, but I'm struggling to find a straight forward solution. I have a desk magnifier that features what I need, there's a wheel that turns the light on with a click and increases the brightness, but I can't find an equivalent product to convert an old desk lamp to an easily dimmable one. Is there a product out there or is this the next millionaire making business?

I found this clock radio in my grandpas garage and wanted to try it out. I plugged it in for a bit to see if it even turned on and the only thing that came out was a low hum from the speakers. The clock wouldn’t turn on at all. I opened it up to check if there were any broken parts or torn wires and everything seemed to be fine.

This is my first time working with radios and I have no idea where to begin in troubleshooting and fixing this so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Where can I get conductive rubber/silicone buttons like these? But as individuals rather than 4 like pictured? Where they act as the switch, and also the spring that lifts the button back up when not being pressed, as these do?

I don't even know how they would be categorized or labeled or what on like mouser or digikey.

https://preview.redd.it/1maqh7hhnwxd1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e38915282d9f85de017ac074ed31003930bb1598

I sort of understand measuring resistors with a multimeter but i am a little bit confused. if I have it set to 2M, and its reading 0.5, would that be a 500k resistor for example ?