Hi everyone,

I've been wanting to build my own keyboard with the following requirements:

• Low Profile Gateron Switch
• Bluetooth (2 profiles)
• Battery (of course)
• RGB LEDs on each key
• Rotary
• USB-C
• (Maybe a screen or scroll wheel later)

But first, I've chosen an ESP32-C6 (SoC) 40-pin. What do you think about this SoC?

And for many days now, I've been completely stuck on the power management of my keyboard.

I've chosen a 4000mAh LiPo battery (3.7v) from AliExpress, so I understand I need something to reduce the power to 3.3v for my SoC.

https://preview.redd.it/wxhwqcwzo3zc1.png?width=588&format=png&auto=webp&s=9d840d466a325f95a598e11359f7165f96d0a473

But the hardest part for me is how to charge my battery from my USB-C? What protection do I need (resistors, capacitors, etc.)? And if I plug my keyboard into my MacBook Pro (65W), what happens?

I'm not very good on elecs so please be kind, and explain like if I know nothing :(

And if you have any recommandations about this setup, feel free to tell me !

Thank you !

I built this as a POC to myself, and expanded upon my original idea. I'll show the project in chronological order. I did this a year ago and figured I'd share!

It is just 2 milk crates, a battery pack (with a fan inside it that kicks on/off as needed), and a portable mini TV mounted on a computer chair's wheels.

The TV and the Wii are plugged into the 2 AC outlets.

The TV has its own speakers. I mounted the OEM Wii sensor bar mount to the top of the TV with 4M pads.

I have made sure this is safe, even though I'm not an electrician. Technically all the wires are coated. So, I see no issues yet. I have also been using this for a long time, so the fact that my house hasn't burned down yet, is proof enough.

Now it has replaced my night stand, and there's an outlet close by to recharge the main power bank in it (using the surge protector of course)

The bottom has extra accessories & a surge protector in it. I took the front off the bottom crate, so i can reach inside. The surge protector only has one outlet in use, and thats to recharge the main power supply unit. I used a bungee cord to strap the two milk crates together.

I normally get 6-7 hours of playtime and I can emulate a bunch of different consoles, as well as play mkwii on wiimmfi with a classic gamecube controller. It's very fun.

Power Station I Used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144859956307?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=khrnxokoryk&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=U1CpovLuQRK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Mini 12" Portable TV (not the same brand as mine, but similar; can't find any like mine): https://www.ebay.com/itm/125991833345?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eqhr2ZKOSvq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=U1CpovLuQRK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If you're interested in seeing all 10 photos, I have other posts with 10 images on my profile. I could only upload 1 image here on diyelectronics)

I know it is a diode made my LittelFuse, but the part number (what I believe says 7GGIK) is not showing up anywhere. Any idea what it is? If it helps, this diode is from the power supply board of an ETC ColorSource 20 AV lighting console.

Thank’s for any help y’all can give!

Hey all, Not sure if this is the place for it but hope I can get some help. I am looking to use some ABS piping to fill with water and pressurize with air to pump water to my misters system that I plan on attaching to umbrellas on my beach wagon. Think those big black abs piping that overlanders use on their truck for a pressurized shower or water source. Mine would be much smaller and only used on my misters. What I’m curious about… is there a specific electronic or part that I could use to attach to my ABS system to keep it pressurized at a certain PSI level? For my truck system I can pump it up when I need it. For my wagon, I’d like it to stay at a consistent PSI so all I need to do is either open or close my water source to turn on the misters as opposed to pumping air into the system each time I want to use the misters. Thanks!

Hello everyone,

I am a really newbie here, I want to solder a battery to a small bluetooth audio board like the VHM-314 (picture attached) with a small li-po battery (like 3.7v 500mAh)

If I understand correctly, lithium battery need a management board (BMS ?) to work. Does the audio board I want need a BMS, or is there a component integrated doing the same thing as BMS (or is it integrated in the battery)?

Thank you so much, theses battery issues really freak me out.

https://preview.redd.it/y6zs4l0uj2zc1.jpg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=243f69a5c9bcf1b8a47dc29b51cf9bacf4288eac

Title. I need to make a logic system that controls the outputs to two separate circuits, and I think an orate fits the definition clearly. My current solution is a swivel type switch which the negative electrode is always connected to, and whichever plate it touches the circuit that’s on and when not touching anything it’s off ; the positive electrode is always connected to both the circuits at the same time. I wanna know if I can make a logic gate similar to what I need in a reasonable amount of time within a dimension about 6 x 8. It may fill the whole space or if that’s impossible to make or if I need specific components. If it matters everything is running off a 9 V battery and the loads are, for the first system, two lightbulbs in series of the Christmas tree type and for the pair and for the second one which is parallel three lightbulbs.

Hey guys, I pulled an E-Bike out of my moms basment after she passed away. It has the battery missing. I had the idea to attach the bike to an old monowheel battery that i have. The battery has 54,3V and 155wh. The idea was to connect it to a Step-Down-converter first, set it to 36v and connect it to the controller of the bike just to find out if it even works before i spend a couple hundred bucks on a new one. So I charged the monowheel battery up without a problem and wanted to mesure it. I pulled out my Multimeter, set it to 200V, connect plus to plus and the moment I touched the minus pole, it shot sparks and smoke and burned the whole connector. Luckily, it did not ignite. What the heck went wrong there?

So my cheap HP computer speaker is not working properly, whenever I adjust the knob either one(Left) of the speakers stops working or both do and the volume levels have dropped too, but when does give an output audio the speakers sound perfect indicating the issue is with the board, I am a student and not in position of buying a new set of speakers but I think if the current is supplied directly via skipping the regulator, it may work ? I am okay with losing volume adjustment controls as long as it works

please suggest how to do so,

more photos attached in comments

the regulator has 6 pins attached to the board and the speakers take power input from my pc directly via the usb port hope that helps

so hello everyone i have this powersuply ATX 300W and i want to use it for various stuff but the issue is that they autoshutdown when there is a short circuit wich isn't really good as i want to use it to turn 12V DC motors here is a picture idk what to do exactlly there is one ic wich is a DR-B2002 GF9E110141E and an octocopler COSMO B17 B14 i looked everywhere but didn't find something simmilar thanks in advance

Hello guys, so I got this school assignment to make a guitar amp. I don't have experience with this so any help would be greatly appreciated. Is this kit okay and would it work as an amp? Link: https://www.velleman.eu/products/view/?id=460656

Hello! I am doing electrolysis on some cast iron parts from my boat engines and I want to up the power. Right now I am using a laptop power source and the process is moving very slowly. I have a much larger docking station power source available however when I clipped the adapter to expose the wires I found a 3rd wire. Can anyone tell me what the small green 3rd wire is for and what I should do with it?

For the past four months, I've been working on a project similar to Voltra and Tonal. While I've managed to develop a rough prototype, the training experience isn't up to par. The main issue is jitteriness, largely due to the absence of hall sensors informing the ESC about the rotor's position.

I'm considering purchasing a Bicycle-BLDC Motor with hall sensors from this link: https://amzn.eu/d/ghUOgOD. Any other suggestions would be welcome.

It's become apparent that I'm not alone in this pursuit, so any input or support would be greatly appreciated!

Prototype

I have this humidifier which only turns on if you press a button. It normally has 3 modes. What I am trying to achieve is to basically bypass the switch on button such that I can control it from my smart plug. I took it apart and this it how it looks like. Any suggestions of what I should be doing? For reference, the button at the bottom only controls some lights that I dont care about (i wish i could disable it somehow anyways). The button at the top has 3 modes and controls the humidifier. Thanks

This is a cheap oled screen I got from Aliexpress. Is it broken or am I doing something wrong? Does any of you recognize the problem?

Hi i just got my new charger for electric scooter and i need opinion. I just opened and i dont see to much components thats why im concerned about safety and quality. Can someone tell me what u think about this? Is lithium battery charger and on label it says 67.2v +- 0.3v 5A 336w max Performance standard: T/TDCZ0001-2019

I'm just brainstorming ideas on how to get into the indie gaming business, and I remember the old Digimon/Tamogatchi keychain monsters gimmick. I think Pokemon probably experimented with this, too, only their digital pets were on watches. Anyway, I was wondering how I could make a Tamogatchi-style portable keychain game console with probably as much power as a Super Nintendo or early smartphone? Would it even make sense, cost-wise? If not, what else could I do if I want to distribute my games (when I finally learn how to build them) in such a way that my target audience doesn't have to buy an expensive third-party handheld console? A $10-$20 pocket toy that can play mobile APK files is what I'm shooting for.

I think I should have titled this "how much power can I pack into a keychain-sized game console?" (In this case, about the size of a plastic egg, but I'm imagining something shaped more like a clamshell makeup pack, kind of like the Game Boy Pocket, only a bit smaller.) I'm curious because pixilated interactive color digital pets were possible in the 90s. Our understanding of technology has to have improved by now, right?

Edit: I'm not sure why this was downvoted. I thought it was a nice idea. I would post on "why was I downvoted" subreddit, but they only rate comments, not posts.

Hello can anyone help me with my Dc-Dc converter ? I tried many values for capacitors and inductor but still the Vdc was bad and so was Idc Vbattery=300v and i want Vdc to be around 450v If anyone knows what to do please help

Hi everyone,

I'm not sure if this the right sub but I'm looking for some answers about electronic components on a boiler.

Do you know what's the purpose of the coil that's plugged on the circuit board?

I'm also wondering about the element on the right where the power input is plugged and redistribute the different phases. What's that element called?

Thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/cm1gzl59wyyc1.jpg?width=1152&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b3f87a5e60d6e8e99937dedd01d05e20f6e42bf3

Sorry couldn't add another photo to my original post! I've managed to put the blue and brown wires that were lose in but its still not working, anything else I can check? (I did remember to turn the power back on and checked the light bulb!) Thanks

I have stumbled across many Ali sellers carrying these bare Pcbs to build a 12v/24v/48v DC to AC inverter based on the popular egs002 sinewave generating module that goes soldered right in the middle.

Since links are not allowed according to the rules I will let the more experienced reassemble this s_click_aliexpress_com/e/_mMW3GeK

But the sellers provide just the bare pcb. With zero docs, not a diagram, not a parts list. When you ask, you are told "all the parts are listed in the silkscreen printing on the component side, no need for manual".

Yet, reading the buyers comments I see some buyers have managed to assemble them and make them work.

The boards have no model numbers, manufacturer or marking other than "10CMx10CM" (board dimension in cm) etched in the lower-left edge, making it very difficult to find who manufactures these or what design (schematics or part list must be out there somewhere, I'm sure) this pcb belongs too.

After a lot of googling I found other sellers that sell pre-assembled units of this very same board (I found out by noticing the same "10CMx10CM" inscription on one of its edges, and also the two electrolytic caps next to the heatsink).

These go by two different names, but the pcb and specs are the same. You need to search on Ali for

63ha inverter M7df inverter

That's as much as I was able to find. I still think I'm missing a part of the puzzle. There must be a forum thread somewhere describing the pcb, the parts list, and some more in depth description of this project, but I can't find it. Or maybe a manufacturer page in Chinese. H**k I would even take a Chinese language pdf if that's all there is.

One of the reviewers of the bare pcb from ruzzia says something about "Dmitry posted schematics in the wanderer forum". But if course I have no clue what Dmitry or what forum he might be referring to. Perhaps machine translation broke the actual meaning.

I did lots of googling for hours, and this is as much as I was able to find. So I come here to post this, hoping that someone else will say "oh, they meant this forum" and a magic link will be pasted where more information about this board will be available.

Thanks for reading....

Hey peeplers

Last night I had a power Issue, caused by two fuses connected to a beamer whilst the audio Interface was connected vie Usb 2.0 to our main computer which was connected to the beamer (computer is fine and my studio is an old crappy house)

now to the interface: the interface seems to be working fine expcept the most important part of the interface the usb connection isnt working, i assume that due to the power peaks the usb connection of the interface got damaged but i am in no way an electrical engineer so pls help 🥺

specs: Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 1. gen

My ceiling light fitting got knocked off slightly when I had a sofa delivered yesterday. I screwed it back on but it's not working. There are two loose wires so wondering but not 100% clear exactly which holes they should go in! I'm kind of assuming the middle two (between the blue and brown wire and next to the brown wire) as not sure they are long enough to reach and of the others. Sorry complete Newby here, just moved in on my own! Thanks

Hey all! I’m in the design phase for a little electronic clock, displaying multiple different time zones. I should be able to figure out the programming for it, however, does anyone have any good recommendations for screen sizes? Sizing is a bigger issue than I’d like to admit right now lol, or any recommendations on how to figure out what a good size might be?

Wondering if someone can help me find a similar power supply to this. The replacement is $100 from Italy and want to just find something cheaper and quicker. (Living in Australia) Ty for any help

Hi i need to decrease from 62v to 12v somehow with resistors. I know how to do it i just not good at solving math etc. Can anyone calculate how big resistor i will need? Its for load max 1A 12v not constant load

I am working on a project for someone. He is having me put together the wiring for a diy Powerwheels type cart. He wants to control the speed that his three kids can use the cart at. For his youngest he wants to only use the slow speed, his middle child can go up to the middle speed, and his oldest can use the fast speed. The electronic speed controller for this project has a three speed control which is controlled through a DPDT switch. The fastest speed is one position, the middle speed is the neutral/middle position, and the slow is the third position. He has three switches in the form of car key like (turn the key and the switch is closed, turn it the other way it is open) physical switches. Each kid would have a set of keys. If the oldest child turned their key, the car would be able to go in all three speeds. If the middle child turned their key, the car would be able to go in the slow and middle speed. And so forth for the youngest. Me and my teacher are stuck at how to make this idea work. Is there a way to use the 3 sets of key switches and the DPDT switch to achieve this outcome?

Any suggestions and answers are welcome. Thanks!

My power max 800 VA UPS is not working, battery is new and fully charged. The UPS will shut down immediately even with not load attached!

I've checked all the imternals, no damages, no dislocations and no visual abnormalities.

Would you please share your ideas to diagnose the issue..

Telefon T-Charge 20 EVO charging empty Lithium Ion

Hi, as the title says,i am trying to charge/revive a «dead» Segway Lithium Ion battery, it belongs to a Navimow robotic mower(owned by Segway).

The battery has been completely discharged due to poor/cold winter storage. And is now empty.

I am trying to boost it with Telwin T-Charge 20 EVO, but i find the instructions and the operation of this charger to be difficult. I am now in lithium 24v mode; and in «rescue» mode. The battery icon on the telwin is blinking, and i dont know what that means.

I have tried boosting it from a Milwaukee 12Ah M18(18v) battery, but it does not seem to help.

I dont know if it is maybe me not using the telwin right. It does not show any progress state or «action», it simply blinks on the battery icon.

Hiya- big noob here and looking for some help! I'm currently making a solar powered cassette player for an art project. Its supposed to come on and off with the sun (for symbolic reasons) so theres no battery reserve. I'm starting to pull the components together but having trouble connecting things up! So far it goes:

solar panel (50w/21.9Voc/2.8Impp) > voltage regulator (In 9-22V, Out 6V/3A) > Cassette Player battery slot (6v)

Now I am trying to work out a few things...

• Do I need a fuse (cassette player says 3 amp fuse), or does the voltage regulator do that?
• How can I connect the solar power cable to the voltage regulator (as shown in the picture)?
• Is there anything you reckon will go wrong/needs improving in my current set up?

https://preview.redd.it/uxjwl3rxgvyc1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f75c1a936ff2988af2c6937d47b193354d362b8