I need a hand here. 67 F100. 302/C6. 4 hours ago I started it up and drove 8 miles home for lunch. No issues. Now it won’t start. It will crane and give a tiny fire every 10 revolutions or so but that’s all. Any advice would be appreciated

My ford F250 starts and runs fine. After I get to work the engine is still very hot. At highway or steady speeds it is fine as well going to 190-200 CTS. In stop in go traffic or start up, CTS goes from 200-230. When I drive it in the city it goes back below 200 anywhere between 5-70 MPH. Would this be the right sequence of things to vet this issue?

Oil and Coolant levels are normal. I am running 10W-40 in Memphis. Today was 81, and I do not think I will survive a 90+ day.

This is not an issue under 70 degrees. I've only noticed it as things have warmed up. I do not have a carb. I have a holley sniper fuel injector on a 460.

Hi guys I’m trying to fix my 61 mercury comet and it’s been horrible trying to find a driveshaft, and I could def use some help in finding one, or some sites that might sell them :)

Also I think it’s a base one and Ik it’s based on the falcon but I can’t find any shafts for it either <\3

Posted this on classicmustangs and classiccars too, then just saw this sub existed also.

1970 302 Mustang, 4 wheel manual drums. The spring that runs along below the wheel cylinder is there on the fronts on my car. Can be seen in the photos below. It's broken on one side on my car.

However it's not included in any of the kits that I see, and I don't see it for sale anywhere by itself. Looked at Rock Auto, NPD, CJs, Napa etc.

I believe the name is "brake return assist spring".

Anyone have any thoughts about this, or have dealt with it before? I can put everything back together without it, but seems like Ford would have had a reason to have it there in the first place? Funnily enough though, its actually NOT pictured in my 1970 Ford service manual but its definitely there on the car.

brake photo example (not my photo): https://i0.wp.com/onemanandhismustang.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/drum17.jpg

another brake photo example of a 65. The light blue spring at the top is the one in question: http://www.ct.early-mustang.com/charles/K_vert/8_22_10/8_22_10%20016.jpg

kit example without the spring: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=308895&cc=1132333&pt=1752&jsn=22

I have a 1991 f150 and the ignition has gone out twice, the last time it was broken (less than 2 years ago) I took it to a shop and had them replace the ignition cylinder. It recently went out again after a mechanic adjusted my steering wheel and when I adjusted it back it worked one more time. I can still start it by turning the key to run and sparking the starters solenoid but I was able to do that when the cylinder was broken as well. I don't want to keep fixing it every couple years so just hoping someone has some advice on troubleshooting or narrowing down what might be the real issue

Edit: forgot to add I've also replaced the starter solenoid about half a dozen times, usually fixes it but not this time

Does anyone know of a chart with the distributor labeled for the correct cylinder for plug wires? Just trying to avoid rolling the engine around finding TDC on each cylinder. I’m running one of the HEI distributors if that matters.

The piece has been off for years, no idea what it’s meant for. No wires in that area are hanging out. The piece is black with nothing on the front, the back has multiple connector’s for wires and some sort of adapter.

I’m restoring the interior of my ‘41 Ford Super Deluxe Buisnessman’s coupe. Does anyone have images of the wood graining done on the dash/window sills?

I recently found a couple potential fun trucks with a very delicate amount of patina that I might want to preserve the look of. I want to basically make a working hotrod .. the flashy truck to pull a light trailer with some toys a short distance. The 1966 is a 3 speed automatic and the 1975 is 4 in the floor.

The 1966 to my knowledge is all original and I would have internal battles over keeling it original or shaping it to a manual. How blasphemous would it be to take an all original truck and start gutting it like that?

Other option is to leave it for someone who would appreciate it for what it is and get the 1975 but I am unsure of how much power that stock manual can handle as I'd be pumping up that 360 pretty hard.

I'm not an expert mechanic by any means, just man with a dream. Any advice is much appreciated.

Good afternoon.

I have this 67 F100 with a hood ornament that I never see on other ford trucks. Is this from the factory, or something someone stuck on later?

Thanks.

Mine (62 Comet) melted, and I'm trying to figure out how to wire it into the firewall harness.

So hopefully somebody had more info on this than i have been able to find. The stock tires/ wheel for the Maverick were 6.45R/14LT with 5-4.5 lug pattern. I am used to wheel sizes being written as 205/45/17 and I am looking for a more modernized size descriptor similar to the one i listed. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I can't find a conversion or chart

Preferably with a 289 or a 302 v8

Bay Area 📍

Would like to do this myself if possible, other than the guage, the sender, and the pump that's in the tank is there anything else I should look at to trouble shoot/replace?

This f250 85. Restored. Working on an 85 bronco now.

My mom has a 1966 Mercury with a 410 FE and it stopped running one day. It has spark and fuel, and the timing still seems right. It didn’t make any weird noises it just stopped running in the McDonald’s drive thru and then it started a couple more times but kept dying. Guy that had it before said when he got it it didn’t run but then he changed the oil and suddenly it ran. I have a hard time believing this, but I mean I’ll take anything I can get at this point. We’ve even put a new timing set on it.

I am trying to restore my 96’ one part at a time it runs like a champ but small things need replaced. I am looking for some help on a 96’ read Badge I am missing the “R” if anyone knows of someone that is selling one can you drop the link.

Thank you

I recently installed long tube headers on my ‘74 FE 390 C6. Huge pain in the ass, ended up having to jack up the engine and remove the starter, there is plenty of clearance around the starter once bolted up.

The engine starts right up and runs strong but seem to idle high, and there is a loud knock coming from the rear of the engine. The idle and mixture screws didn’t effectively bring the idle down (until it eventually stalled completely).

everything appears bolted up properly, no loose ends. Removing plugs one by one didn’t identify the knock. I will be changing the oil to check for metal this week. The only removed part that was reinstalled was the starter, and the knock wasn’t there before (or at least not audible like it is now).

could it be a broken flex plate? It starts up and no strange noises from the starter. Rod knock? Why would a header install cause that?

here’s the link, sounds like a jackhammer in this video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/aOO7ps7dbLE?feature=shared

Update: I pulled the inspection plate and ignition coil today, and the flex plate is good. BUT at that point it was clear that the crank was hitting the shallow part of the pan. I must have squished it just enough…lesson learned. Without the exhaust out the headers it became very obvious…should’ve thought of that. Thanks for all the help!

now time to try to pull the pan without pulling the motor. I was going to pull the motor for a rebuild anyway this winter so maybe it’s time.