Currently doing a 351w build. I'm harvesting a lot of my components off my old 302 block, but the hexagon shaped coolant connection block that connects the heater tube and coolant temp sensor to the top of the lower intake by the thermostat is seized beyond me being able to remove it. It's the part connected to 51 and 44, but it isn't numbered on Ford's diagrams.

Anyone know what name to search for on google so I can just order a replacement?

https://preview.redd.it/pz3o4p17cmwd1.png?width=223&format=png&auto=webp&s=45c7901089cf940e119c24a4d4892b4b9ac35d2f

I use my ‘78 F350 all the time so I’m looking for a bed/tonneau cover. Preferably a hard cover. If anyone has found one that fits the long bed please let me know which one worked.

Hi, I am trying to identify this car in an old family picture. I believe the picture is from the 40s, and that the car is a Ford. Can anyone identify details about the car? Thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/splrziv519rd1.png?width=1618&format=png&auto=webp&s=a4834583e5cb84810e3b85075977fe5d943d172d

Hey all, I recently inherited a 1948 Ford F1 and plan to sell it eventually, but the brakes are completely shot—the pedal goes straight to the floor with no resistance, though the emergency brake still works.

A guy from a local classic car club gave me a ballpark estimate of around $15k to fully restore the brakes, which seemed really high to me. Most brake jobs I’ve done myself have only cost a few hundred dollars. Is this kind of estimate normal for trucks this old, or is it way off?

For some context, the truck runs fine, has some surface rust (nothing structural), an engine swap (an I6 under 300 cubic inches), a 12-volt electrical system, and questionable wiring. The truck’s value in “fair” condition is around $18k, but I’d have to invest way more than that to get it there, according to the guy I spoke with.

I’m trying to avoid sinking too much into it before selling, so I’d appreciate any advice on whether this $15k brake estimate sounds reasonable for a truck like this, or if it’s out of bounds. Thanks!

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/bgP18IB

I've got a '70 F250 with a 360 engine and a stock carburetor that has been a problem as long as I can remember. The truck sat for 3 years, so getting it up and going again. Truck starts up fine (has a pertronix) Idles a little rough - might be old gas. But after the first time moving it around, it seems to have lost the ability to run under load. I throw it in reverse or forward gear and it stalls out.

Due to work, I haven't had time to dig into it, and I'm outta practice working on old trucks. I'm presuming a small vacuum leak (though the hoses are all only 3 years old on a protected undriven truck - or the carb floats are screwing.. who knows.

All this leads me to.... maybe it's time to finally get rid of the old carb (don't remember what it is). What's the best / easiest carburetor to slap in and gain some consistency. Easy to tune, little to no modifications or anything.

I saw a couple posts recommending a 600 Holley of some kind. But what are some recommendations of a reasonably priced aftermarket carb for a little power gain, but mainly easy to deal with.

Hi all,

I have a 1974 Econoline E300 "Supervan", and sadly I need to sell it. I'm wondering what y'all think about the value of this vehicle. Looking online, it's pretty all over the place. I'll try to give a rundown on the specs/condition of the van to give a better idea. Thanks in advance for reading!

Edit: clean title in hand, 2 wheel drive

-It has the inline six cylinder, 300 ci engine. C4 automatic transmission.

-Starts no problem, runs great. Burns a little oil but nothing crazy.

-It's (I believe) the longest body, windows all the way around. Totally gutted except for the two front captain's chairs.

-Brand new battery. Tires are in pretty good shape.

-Very little rust. Never been in an area that salts the roads, so the undercarriage and frame are definitely intact. Body has no major rust, no places where it's rusted through at all.

-Has a roof rack

-Mileage unknown.

-Original paint was in very good shape but it was painted over with rustoleum primer and then a different color on top of that some years back. That newer layer of paint has started to chip off though, more in some parts than others. With a pressure washer I could probably get almost all of that paint off, and back to the original, but unsure if I want to undertake that. The good news is that the original paint underneath has been preserved by being covered up with another layer.

I know the inline six 300 engine is pretty desirable, and the c4 transmission is as well. Overall the van is in pretty darn good condition for its age, and depending on what I can get for it, I'm tempted to just hold on to it. But I'm in a position where I'm going to really need that driveway space, and so I'm exploring letting it go to a good home.

Anyway, thanks for any insight you might have!

have a '96 F150 with a 5.0 V8 302 engine, and almost every time I drive it, the truck eventually stalls, with both the engine light and battery light coming on. I noticed when it drives, it doesn’t seem like it’s running efficient compared to when I got the truck initially – the engine seems like it’s working harder. Basically it seems unsteady when I drive it like it’s not receiving fuel efficiently. Eventually when it’s started up and drives, anywhere from 5-15 minutes of driving it, the engine dies,  and the battery and engine light come on and the truck won't move. It happens abruptly and quickly – the power steering goes out and the engine goes quiet in an instant – almost like it’s losing connection somewhere. If I try to start back up immediately, it always will crank but won’t start.  I have to turn it off and let it sit for 10-15 minutes before it will start up again and sometimes it will even run the rest of the day. But lately it's got worse and now takes longer to start up again.. I've checked the battery, alternator, and starter, and everything seems fine. And sometimes, it will start right up.  I even took it to a mechanic, but they couldn't find anything wrong, as it ran perfectly for them every time. Because when the battery and engine light go off, it doesn’t pop up anything in their code readers/scanners. I have had the distributor cap and rotor changed, and the ignition coil changed, and got all new spark plugs and spark plug wire sets changed. It’s still doing the same thing. Luckily, I was able to use my code reader whenever the battery and engine light came on and I got a code.  

The Code was P0125 – insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control. My coolant was a little low. I did some research and possibly think it needs a new thermostat I think. basically the code was saying the truck stays in open loop mode and doesn’t switch over to closed loop mode. What that means basically is when the truck starts, it runs off of default settings for the air to fuel ratio, but it’s supposed to switch to closed loop mode and change the air fuel ratio based on the numbers and temp the truck is running at once the truck gets to 190 degrees. However, the truck is not increasing in temp high enough and it’s causing the truck to run in open loop mode and never switch and it’s getting too rich of fuel and I think it’s causing the engine to flood with fuel. I could be wrong, but I definitely feel like that code is at least part of the problem because that makes sense. I don’t think the ECM sensor is messed up because it was reading accurate numbers on my scanner – in 10 minutes the temp only increased according to the ECM sensor from 120 F to 145 F. So I’m leaning more toward this being a thermostat problem. It also smells like strong gas which makes me think the truck is getting flooded with rich fuel.  

But I think something else is going on in addition to the thermostat not getting the truck to the temperature it needs which makes sense because it always seems like it has been working hard driving these past 4 days – it can’t switch into that closed loop efficient fuel mode because it’s not getting to temperature.  

But something else is going on as well, not sure if it’s the ignition control module, the pickup coil, the fuel pump. Or something else.

Hey all, massive long shot. I’m trying to track down my dads old car, the title. Most I know is he used to race it at silverstone and possibly other places a long time ago. I don’t have the reg sadly, but it was allegedly in a magazine, possibly classic ford magazine. We aren’t sure if he sold it or if someone duped him into giving it to them (he’s not all there). Just kinda wanna see it again. Thanks to anyone that might have any info :)

Edited due to confusing dates…

I have a 65 falcon that I cannot find the title for. I have the owners card but have not had any luck with vin checkers. Is there anyway I can get an owner history?

I've come here to ask, what weight capacity should i look for when buying the springs, and how can i recognize the correct axles? there are a few axles around, some dodge, some Chevy, some ford, not experienced enough to differentiate. i can elaborate on the issue if necessary

Hey all! Out of nowhere my electrical just busted. I was trying to turn her on, and just before she fired everything blew. I heard a pop, and nothing. The pop would indicate a blown fuse, but I cant find one. Digital gages don't turn on, headlights don't turn on, the only thing that turns on is the dome light, which is also the only thing that has nothing to do with the ignition key. My battery is at 12 volts, the solenoid and the alternator are getting power. The fusible link is not blown, none of the fuses are blown. All of the "key off" fuses are delivering 12 volts of power, and the "key on" fuses do not. When the "key on" position is hit with the key, those fuses start to deliver millivolts instead of the 12 volts they need to. Somebody please helpppppp!

Hey everyone. I recently purchased an 87 Ford. Needs some work done and was interested in doing a complete engine swap. Was wondering what would be some good engines to put in it?

After a year of sitting she is finally back on the road.

Inline 6 manual. The rear tank won’t work. The gage shows the fuel that’s in the tank when I hit the switch, but for some reason the truck won’t suck the fuel out of the tank. Why is that so? If anyone can help I’d appreciate it.