Hey I just have a couple questions. I am still learning about engines and building them. My question is what direction should I go with the 460 to get a good bit of power out of it? Should I treat it as a 460 or maybe a 500? I don’t even know where to start the process but I do know that it’s my best chance at getting my f100 to really move. If anyone has any knowledge or insight it would be greatly appreciated.

Hey all, I have a business client leaving the auto repair industry and trying to sell off his equipment in bulk. Does anyone know of service that would buy it in bulk? Just looking for something as pain-free and quick as possible. The equipment consists of lathes, cylinder-boring machines, drill presses, car lifts, dyno, and other stuff that a tuning and engine repair business uses. pics: https://ll-cre.box.com/s/ekublsrh4oufrgzqfp82866a7izj6l5b

2004 Chevy Suburban 5.3 Vortec L59 (flex fuel version of LM7)

Had a knocking sound. Tore it apart to find I ate up the wheel on #5 Exhaust lifter and destroyed that lobe on the cam. Decided to give it a valvetrain refresh. New parts:

Melling oil pump Timing set, Melling MTC-7 cam with springs, Lifters (LS7 style since LS1 are not available), Trays (GM), FelPro PermaTorque head gaskets, ARP for all bolt and fastener hardware, Pushrods 7.400 chromemoly .080 wall, Rocker arms stock with caged bearing upgrade, Everything new in the Heads except valve seats. Head were done by a machine shop .005 off deck to clean.

Issue I am having is now that I am putting things back together, something is not adding up. The 7.400 pushrods are causing the valves on #1 to hang open on base circle. All parts were quality parts from reputable suppliers. (No $45 eBay Brian Tooley lifter sets)

I verified with Melling that base circle is same as stock.

This is my first time refreshing an LS engine, but I am not new to engines. (Mostly older SBC). Machine shop said I should be able to use stock 7.400 pushrods. Any help would be much appreciated. I posted this on another place, but not having any luck. I will answer questions the best I can.

P.S. i am new to fixing vehicles etc like this but 100% want to pull it apart myself and trouble shoot, as all shops have a logn wait time and i am looking to get back on the water for summer.

This engine was said to be fully refurbished just over 20 hours ago as read on hour meter, but unsure if it actually did due to the current problem. Does look pretty clean in general tho with some visibly new gaskets from first glance.

about 5 months ago i purchaed a boat with a 4.3ltr Mercruiser MPI raw water cooling (220hp)

after the second use, we had the boat out all day parking up for diving now and then, then steamed the hour back towards the docks, parking up just outside the harbour for another dive. when I went to turn the engine on, it tried cranking over and didnt start twice. A small fire then started on the large wire connecting to the starter motor which burnt out that cable. the boat would also not start anymore. I was towed back to port to fix on dry land.

I had been quite sick following and hadnt tried to fix it properly after not starting etc a few months back after a quick try. presently now pulling the spark plugs out i found water in the cylinders on one side of the engine with rusty spark plugs. I have sprayed insude with CrC to try help with any rust etc formed and left to soak for a while.

I am also unsure how to turn the engine over by hand (with a breaker bar) assuming it is now seized due to being hydrolocked, and wont start. I havent taken belt off the front and thought you just had to put the breaker bar on the big nut on the bottom pulley? but the nut just span instead of the belt and or pulley. do I have to take the belt and pulley off to spin it from something behind? Sparks where out while trying.

Am I right to say this could most likely be a head gasket? or a faulty Exhaust manifold (which are new)?

The starter was removed and checked, but unsure how to realign it properly? as you cant see into where it connects with the fly wheel and i am guessing it is just not sitting quite right.

any advice would be highly appriciated cheers.

I've fixed the problem with the sbc 350 cranking but not starting but now it'll run for a second then shut off. I know the floats are tuned and not stuck and I have spark. could it be a vacuum leak?

Why does honda's v6 j35 have such horrible gas mileage figures even when the car is brand new and everything is maintained? Ignore stupid basic stuff like driver habits and maintainence items. I want to go deep technically into why this older v6 has such low gas mileages (Info specific to the J serires) compared to newer bmw inline 6s or something with equivalent power

Trying to get this 289 operating under it's own power to move very short distance before pulling motor out and sending to machine shop. Car sat for 35 years and finally got the motor to turn by hand by soaking the cylinders in transmission fluid. It only turns so far then stops, I can reverse the rotation and it seems to stop again around same spot. Is this normal? I'm thinking dropped a valve or maybe rusted cylinder? Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated

I'm gonna swap the points distributor out for an HEI unit here soon. I'm looking at the HEI MSD pro billet, which is like $450. I'm also seeing a summit & JEGS branded version that's... $80. And some in between.

This motor is OEM as is, I intend to put heads and a cam in it but that's about it. It's a mark IV 454 in a 1979 chevy c20 so it won't ever see high RPM in a meaningful way, so is there any point to getting a fancier, more expensive HEI distributor? Rev limiter will be ~6k.

Hello,

Perhaps I’m overthinking this but I’m looking for a product I can apply to engine internals while I’m in the process of assembly over the winter. We see temps of -10 to -20 over the winter and my garage is not insulated.

The engine is currently an assembled bottom end wrapped in an air tight bag. I was looking at the attached AMSOIL product but they don’t sell it in Canada.

Any suggestions? I would ideally like to coat the rotating assembly before oil pan install and cylinder walls while I wait on my head.

Thank you,

I have a 1998 ranger 2.5l. Im rebuilding the engine, and as im putting the 4th piston in and putting the con rods in. One of the bolts started going righty loosey on me. I stopped and tried to take it out, but to no avail. Its now spinning no matter which direction i turn it. Am i fucked? Do i need a new connecting rod now? How do i get this bolt off?

Hi all, wondering if someone could lend their knowledge please.

Car has been sat 6 years and now doesn’t have spark Brand new ignition coil and condenser. I’m getting 12v at the coil, 12v at the king lead (dizzy side) when turning the car over I’m getting spark at the points inside the dizzy with cap off. But no spark at the plugs, anyone have any ideas how to diagnose the issue? Thanks.

Quite literally dropped a valve (on the floor) . Gave the raised bits a quick rub with emery to take off the high spots and done another quick lap in the head.

Forget it and get a new valve or just forget about it and send it? It's an exhaust valve anyway and I'm pretty sure it'll just fill with carbon since it's hardly on the seat?

Opinions, please?

https://preview.redd.it/bpa1tq5it94e1.jpg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd546bfada367ce2130b3f2c6286ffcc3149b422

https://preview.redd.it/c2wbuq5it94e1.jpg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23ef92bfefef78a1dd10cbaee4c89b7a50be3e7f

https://preview.redd.it/l30bsr5it94e1.jpg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c89c9106239270f7a1db5987056292cf31ab5920

RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing.

I have a small oil filled heater in the garage, but even full blast, I can only get it to around 41 degrees.

The Permatex I'm using states you can fill with fluids and drive in 90 minutes, but obviously I want to wait longer than that.

Should 3 days be enough at 40 degrees?

Thinking about picking up a 302 flat tapped motor out of mustang, intake heads, exhaust manifold. New high volume oil pump. No carb, No Distributor. 67k on original motor. $150

My goal is to build a stock 5.0 over the winter just for experience and fun. I don’t have any plans of what it would go in, just wanting to build a stock reliable 5.0. Would like to keep it out of the machine shop, not really any of them close to me. Never done much with engine

What do you guys think about this? Thanks!

Got a 400 in my 1980 f350 build and I’m wondering how much power vs mpg I can get with some of the low end torque mods I’ve been looking at (around 60cc closed chamber heads 255 comp cams and more) I have other options like a 454 I’ve had in the corner for a while. I would go 460 but I’ve heard they’re just so heavy and sometimes unstable in the bottom end. TIA

I've checked it all. I'm getting fuel and spark but all it does is cranks. it will sometimes start for about a second then shut back off. anyone have any idea why it could be happening?

In a 69 chevelle if it matters, driven very little over the last 20 years, still runs well with a couple leaks now and then

So what's the big difference between them?

Reading a lot on here, a lot of the "old heads" prefer the black.

It looks like both grey and black have the same coolant resistance (both mention coolant resistance), but black has "maximum oil resistance".

Black seems to be more flexible, and grey more ridged.

But just how chemically different is the black and grey RTV's, or is it just marketing "illusion of choice"?

I’m tearing down and rebuilding a 302 V8 - all but one of the walls seem to be in okay condition. One of the walls has a deep scratch, I can just about catch my nail on it.

I was planning on stone or ball honing all cylinders anyway, and replacing piston rings. Is this scratch workable?