My kids are interested in archery, 8 and 7 yo, any recommendations in Miami where I can take them?

Hey y’all!

I’m 30F and I am looking to get into archery. I’ve always wanted to start, and there’s no time like the present.

Now that I work from home, I need a hobby I can practice at home and figured now is the time!

Of course, my ultimate goal is to go bow hunting once I feel comfortable and competent enough. Last thing I want to do is have the animal suffer out of my own negligence and incompetence.

With that being said, here are the questions I have:

What is a good bow for a woman? (Within a modest price range….max $500)

What gear do I need to get to start practicing in my backyard?

What are must have items and “nice to have” items?

How do I find out what my draw length is?

I’ve read several other posts saying to start with a 20-25lb draw weight to get used to the form and build up thise finer muscles in the arm and shoulders. With that, what is the ideal draw weight for bow hunting? I know this is something I will have to build to, so it will be my goal.

Hi everyone, my son turned 8 this summer. I got him a very cheap bow from Sportman’s Warehouse and he loves it, but I learned while teaching home that he’s left eye dominant. So I’m looking for a higher quality youth bow that’s left handed. But still fairly inexpensive. Maybe around 200 at max. It will need to have a fairly light draw weight. Preferably compound… but maybe there’s an argument for more traditional, I don’t know. Does this sound like a reasonable request or do I need to alter my expectations? Any suggestions from this group? Thanks in advance!

Would a crappy k mart bow set help with practicing form?

I've really been getting into archery lately and I'm part of a club in the North East, but early next year I'll be moving to Manchester. I don't drive, so would need to be able to take public transport ideally to get to a club there, but I'm not sure what options there are. I saw Manchester Met Uni has an archery club from what I can tell.. does anyone know if it's any good and if they take on people who aren't uni students, etc?

Super simple question. Okay probably not. I’m loving the rabbit hole of arrow building.

Bow is a Hoyt AlphaX 33, 61lb draw.

Arrow at the moment is a Hunter Gold Tip, 300 spine, 20 grain FACT weight, standard alloy insert, 125grain head, length 28.5 inches nock throat to carbon end. I am buying some XT’s to do the same build just to squeeze out some more accuracy. I have also followed gold tip university, spun them, cut them and sorted them to get the best arrows from each batch.

Enter stage right, a new arrow, Terra Firma Fortis. I have wanted to play around with micros for a while for wind resistance. This arrow is 0.001 straightness, 60gn outsert. For the money and reviews, the specs are too hard to pass up. They’re cheaper than XT shafts, are weight sorted out of the packet as well.

Gold Tip say use a 300 spine based on my 28.5 draw length (yeah draw and arrow length are the same), bow IBO and total tip weight of 150 grains. Their GPI is 9.3 for a 300.

Terra Firma advise using a 350 spine for my setup. Their GPI in a 350 is 9.5. Their 300 is 10.8gpi.

Question time.

Should you stick with spine recommendations across these different manufacturers? Or just purely look at spine rating and buy 300’s in the new brand? I ask as in the future I’m going to play around with Easton FMJ’s as well. And probably the next great thing I see.

Hoping this makes sense. I’m still falling down the rabbit hole with arrow building and it’s fun as hell.

I’ve been shooting my ol man’s modified recurve bow that is older than me and been using his feather fletching arrows and have been working well (already harvested a deer) but I’m looking into to buys more arrows so I guess my question is for anyone out there….

What type of rest is this called? And can I shoot plastic fletching with it? Or just feathered?

I have a bow shop about 40 minutes away should I just go or buy from home??

<정사론 - How to properly shoot 정량궁(170lbs strength bow)>

"When archers have been shooting bows for 3 years, they should learn how to shoot heavy Jeong-Ryang-Gung(정량궁). By shooting heavy bow, one could learn proper form and alignment that is most efficient and powerful to shoot any bow. Without shooting 정량궁, one might be proficient with the bow they shoot, but can never find out the most proficient form that can give the biggest strength and thus stability."

->There are 4 sequences to this, but I(translator) will focus on the initial 3, eliminating non technical mental training part.

◇ General Principle

"To spread 정량궁, you need to firmly support your strength on bone alignment, since it is much stronger."

-> author uses of 'spreading' than 'drawing' since it should happen by both arms simultaneously. Your bow arm push and draw arm pull. this should happen at the same time. without bow arm pushing, draw arm can't pull. Without draw arm pulling, bow arm can't push.

"Bone alignment and lock should be made as follows; Lower your bow arm shoulder so it is securely locked to your scapular, leaving no room to move. Glenoid Fossa should properly support head of Humerus. If this is hard, try to support with Coracoid process. Since Coracoid process has Biceps branchii, and pectoralis minor rooted in, doing this will automatically lower and align your scapular and bow arm shoulder."

-> for visual aid, this is what they mean : https://images.app.goo.gl/XmUmNLFGp6tsAkhz5

◇ 거궁(Raise bow) - 개궁(Spread bow)

"Raise both arms above high. put no strength nor pressure put to any part of your arm at this point. If you put pressure or strength on any part of your arm or shoulder at this point, it will later disrupt the alignment and disrupt. the strength and pressure should apply from the root in sequence; spine - shoulder - arm - wrist - palm."

"Like following a circle above your head, spread the bow. Push your bow arm and pull your draw arm. Don't spread the bow arm elbow before shoulder alignment happens, as it will disturb the alignment and even if you reach full draw, it will end up in a weaker unstable alignment that is hard to maintain."

"Putting strength on arms before spreading will also limit the movement of your shoulder, resulting in unstable 만작(full draw)"

"Raising both arm high at initial phase is way easier for spreading. Bow hand should be supporting the bow skywards, while draw hand should pull the bow downwards, bent to 90°, like picking off a fruit from a tree. Put your draw hand to your shoulder close."

◇ 만작(Full draw) - 발시(Release)

"At this point, your bow hand is pushing forward while your draw hand is holding the bow downwards, securing it from any movement."

-> Make the above mentioned bone alignment at this point. when your shoulder is lowered and alignment is made, securing it, you are ready to release.

"Release should be done giving same push and pull you gave from spreading the bow sequence. Bow hand is pushing forwards, while draw hand is holding it back at place. Open your arms(to the direction you were spreading the bow) to release the bow."

Hey /r/Archery,

Initial Disclaimer on what this post is

As many know, there's already a large discussion on Sanlida's past behavior and the ethics of purchasing from Chinese companies. I'm not qualified to address these matters, and I'd recommend anyone to go watch Nusensei's video on the matter here.

Additionally, I'm not going to go deep into the weeds about bow performance, specs, and so on because, again, I'm way too green for that. But Lusk Archery Adventures did an excellent unsponsored review video.

What I can speak to is the experience of purchasing this bow as a beginner compared to the more commonly accepted Diamond Edge XT. So let's jump on in.

My Backstory with Compound Archery

I've practiced traditional archery on and off for the last 20 years, but I never gave a serious go at compound shooting. Back in july, I decided to get a Diamond Edge XT for abour $450 USD and start practicing. Immediately, I had a lot of issues with the bow and the company. The sight it came with leaves a lot to be desired, the string/rod damper piece was loose before I could finish my first grouping, and the limb dampers fell off easily. A little super glue helped with some of these problems, but I was annoyed that this happened so quickly.

After about 200 shots per week for three months, those initial problems were out of my mind. I tightened the bolts every week or so, and, to the best of my knowledge, I took good care of that bow. But then I heard a strange noise while drawing a shot, so I carefully eased the bow back to rest. One of the draw length adjustment bolts (with loctite on) had come loose, and the string was slightly damaged from these components grinding against it.

String replacements are not covered under diamond's warranty, and Bass Pro (where I purchased the bow) doesn't sell strings. I tried to go through diamond to learn what they recommend doing to get the string replaced, but they were remarkably unhelpful - simply stating that they don't do replacements and I needed to go figure it out. That's fair enough on their part, but it doesn't give them points here either.

Going through 60X strings to get a replacement plus the cost of getting the new ones put on was going to be about $180 USD. In a previous post, I asked this subreddit if that seemed worth it, and it sounds like that's pretty standard. Still, I was bothered by the idea of spending nearly 200 for a string replacement on a bow that felt cheaply made in the first place. I switched back to focusing on traditional archery, and after some research and time, I ordered a Sanlida Dragon X8.

Sanlida Dragon X8 Pros for Beginners

It is remarkably inexpensive. I got it for $200 USD through amazon prime.

I have never set a bow's draw length and weight before, so maybe all are this easy, but this experience was super quick and simple. Got it set to 68# at a 31" draw in just a few minutes.

It shoots just as well, maybe even better, than the Diamond Edge XT, at least up to 40 yards - that's the maximum range I've tested it at.

The sight is a fantastic beginner sight. The lights on it are kinda gimmicky, but the included level is a must for newbies and traddies like me who can't kick their cant. No idea why this wasn't included on the sight for the Diamond Edge XT.

The price is lower than other intro bows and you just get more. It comes with a sight, rest, quiver, stand, release, sling, stabilizer, 12 arrows, and a soft bow case. For reasons, I'm about to go into, some of these don't add points to the bow, but if this is your first bow, most of these additions are necessary and their given condition is certainly sufficient.

Retroactive pro point here: the pros outweigh the cons. All cons I'm going to mention come from some of the included accessories, but factoring in the cost of fixing these issues results in the overall price and experience being lower than the original package price for the Diamond Edge XT.

Sanlida Dragon X8 Cons for Beginners

The rest sucks. It makes for a better fletching shear than anything else. Don't use it. Instead, I put the whisker biscuit from my previous bow on the Dragon X8, which worked great for me. A good whisker biscuit shouldn't run you more than $40 USD.

The soft bow case, obviously, isn't as protective as a hard case. The Diamond Edge XT package didn't have any kind of case though. But I'd recommend everyone get a hardshell when you purchase your bow. The plano cases are pretty decent and only cost about $50 USD.

The arrows are also trash, but I do believe arrow purchasing should follow bow purchasing anyway. This is a point against the overall value of the Dragon X8 bow package, but if they weren't included in the first place and the price was still the same, I would still be shocked at how affordable this seemed.

The sling and stabilizer aren't as good as the one on the Diamond Edge XT, but they're functional and adequate. I chose to replace them with my previous ones, but this is not a necessity like the arrow rest was.

TL;DR

In my opinion, if you're new to compound shooting, you shouldn't sink a whole bunch of money into a new bow setup, and the Sanlida Dragon X8 gives you some real bang for your buck. Setup was super easy. The manufacturing quality of the bow itself and the sight was higher than that of the Diamond Edge XT (a similar beginner bow), but the opposite was the case for the included accessories. Even still, the Dragon X8 comes with way more stuff, and it's easier to get started with just this package.

Hope this is helpful to someone somewhere, and thanks to the entire subreddit for being such a useful resource in my archery journey.

as a club we have some teammates that could make bow strings in the club we shoot most with 36 # and 40 # they bought B55 string material and wasent that good now we're buying fast flight string material X99
now what serving material we should get ? Kaminsky is always naming BCY but from other sources i dont know nothing
thanks for reading ill looking for answers

For context I’ve been shooting for about 6 weeks, around 7 hours a week. Started off at 18lb and moved in increments of 2lb to 22lb. I moved today to 24lb since I was having an easy time with the 22, and I think my back has had to do a lot more work than usual to create the required tension, and my back is more sore than usual. I checked my form with a couple of more experienced archers and they said it was okay.

My question is, since for each of the previous increments there was basically no additional strain that I could feel (and no additional soreness), is this additional strain normal ? Should I go back to 22lb and spend a few more weeks with it, or should I get used to 24?

Thanks!

Hello, I would like to buy a monocular that I could use in all format of archery competiong (indoors, outdoors, 3D, campaing - not sure about the name of the last one in english maybe field archery?). As it needs to be carried, I dont want to go for those huge ones used in indoors and outdoors (as in 50 to 70m distance). What would be your recommandations?

Sorry if im unclear on my request as english is obviously not my first language.

Edit: by affordable I mean not above the 250€/USD range

I can’t believe what a difference a single pin sight made for me! As much I loved archery before, switching to a single pin sight and the joy of just tuning it in is the zen I needed in my life! This is only 30yds but man when I was shooting with a 5 pin my grouping and accuracy were nothing like this. If anyone is interested I went with a Trophy Ridge React One Pro.

Someone (my 3 year old daughter) found a way to remove the top one of these on my bow string. What do I search for a replacement part?

Hey guys, I have a problem on my feelings when shooting. During my training, at a certain point, I feel that my drawing feels softer and lighter in comparison to the beginning of the training. I know for sure that my arrow, when I get that feeling, will impact left (I’m left handed).

I think that this feeling is caused by the collapse of my overall form (still getting quiet easy trough the clicker btw) but I don’t know if this is a right guess because it doesn’t happen every time I collapse.

I was wondering if maybe there is something wrong with my limbs. I don’t know, maybe it’s just my brain 😬

Any guesses? Thx

Now I need to figure out what stabilizer I need.

So I’m brand new, sorry of this question comes up a lot.

I have a Jag1 deluxe 175lb crossbow, I want to build a backstop so I can practice in my garden, would be firing at around 10m/30ft from target.

Would this foam underlay be enough to stop an arrow/bolt? I was thinking 2 or 3 layers but was also wondering whether it would be better to leave a gap between layers or whether I should have them up against one another.

They’ll be hung from a wooden frame from the top only the sides and bottom will be free hanging, each layer will be 1.3m tall and 2m wide

I know this is a common question that is posted in this group, but I did not find alot about Wooden Arrows for horse bows.

Can anyone direct me to a chart or website that will have someway to figure out what spine and grain I will need. Some of the bows will be marked with the poundage and some I will have to weigh later.

Also any vendors that you can recommend who sells Wooden Arrows who I might be able to give the bows info to order the arrows would be highly appreciated.

Also is there any apps(Smart phones) that might be useful? If not, I might make an simple html script on my website to provide a rough estimate of what spine and grain that would help.

Good morning, everyone! I've been practicing with my first bow for about two months, but I've noticed that after around 10 rounds of 4-5 arrows, I start to shake, and my arrows end up off-target. My instructor suggested switching to lighter limbs (even though he originally recommended these 32-pound ones). To avoid the extra cost, do you think it would help to do some arm-strengthening exercises, or would that just be a waste of time? I'm worried about losing accuracy in the final rounds of my upcoming competition, since I start to shake after about 50 arrows, and the competition has 60.

Hi. Well im looking for a recurve bow. Im looking at riser and starting limps lims? Never know the name in english. I want to get an pretty good riser because i actually want to shoot competitive and for the lims i know i should start with cheaper ones since it will be outgrown quickly. So im thinking an win&win riser but how do you know the handle/grip will be good for you.. the store is like 200km away for me wich is long away. Just to like check but i think i probably should go and get it to feel in my hand. But yea apartfrom that the club bow was about 20 lbs draw and i shot with an 24lbs draw on a 27inch riser with long lims so he told me that would be like 22 lbs draw wich is comfortable for me to draw. So i was thinking of getting an 27inch rizer. Anyway so lims and riser i need then i need like an arrow thingy for on the bow i want one to screw on not stick on. I dont wanna just go out and buy i just want to like make a list of what i need so i can figure out if it will be good for me :) sorry much text and bad english :) but any idea or link to like check list would be helpful thabk you!:)

Was out shooting some pumpkins today and missed a shot. I shoot out on BLM land, which is a long grassy field that I set my targets up in. I had a basic grasp of the area it landed in, but I probably looked for as long as I was out shooting for and never found it. I guess I'm a 5 arrowed marksman now 🥲

For the future, does anyone have any advice to not lose your arrows from missed shots so I don't make another $15 mistake?