Budget is about $500 total. I've shot traditional recurves for a long time but I want to get a real setup with an ILF riser

Hello Reddit!

I've started barebow 6 months ago using a 27" Kinetic Sovren, #28 carbon/foam Kinetic limbs with a #34 draw weight, 31" Skylon novice .600 and Avalon plunger/arrow rest/weights. Unfortunately in my club there are no other barebow shooters so I've been gathering every bits of info I could online, whether it be through forum and youtube channel. I'm now shooting at 18m and members of my club adviced me to get better arrows so I went to my local shop and bought some 32" Skylon Preminens .400 (set up with 120 grain points and vanes) following the advice I found on this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWRK-G3mTNo

Now rewatching the video I realized that he shoots .500 arrows that if I'm not mistaken perfectly matches his draw weight (42#) and arrow length (29"). So now I'm more confused then ever!

Now when we were trying to tune them I noticed the arrow rest wouldn't stay in place and I guessed it wasn't designed to bear the downward force happening due to string walking so I will change that before going on with tuning and so far according to more advanced archers in my club it didn't seem like they were flying in a way that seemed impossible to tune so I'm still hoping!

I've read countless post on spine and I know .400 seems crazy at my draw weight/arrow length but I wonder where would Jake Kaminsky got this info from and why would he be advicing it that strongly in his latest videos if it didn't make any sense? And I'm totally aware he's still new to barebow. I've also replied under his video and hoping to get maybe more insights there.

Thanks!

I got 2nd place in the 3D tournament doing barebow against olympic recurves at the end of July. I really enjoyed doing 3D and will be competing in another tournament in September. In hindsight I should have got 1st place, but I suffered from shot anxiety and immediately shot after drawing. All my missed were at most an inch or two off. How long should I hold my shot before releasing? I was slinging arrows like I was hawkeye from the avengers and need to fix that.

This Saturday I will be competing in my very first archery tournament. I started training 4 months ago and would rate myself as an intermediate archer. I am the only barebow archer at my club and from what I hear none of the other clubs in the city have barebow archers either. So in order to participate in this 3D tournament I have to compete against the olympic recurve guys. I know I’m at a huge disadvantage, but anyone have any tips to even out the playing field.

Hey everyone, hope all is well for you. I practice barebow outside the US and will be participating in a 3D tournament at the end of the month. Unfortunately since I am the only person that practices barebow at my club, I will be participating in the recurve division and will be at a disadvantage without a sight. I have been trying to perfect my string walking, but when I do it my bow makes loud sounds like I am drying firing. I know it’s because of the string walking, but is there anything I can do to decrease the sound and vibration without sacrificing performance?? Thanks in advance!

Shooting at 15 meters with a target that was adjusted down for the range. Excited to see how much I can improve my scores.

I’m using a spigarelli DMS 25in riser with long limbs at 36lbs and shooting at 40m. Which arrow spine would you recommend? I’m currently using 350 spine victory arrows, but I feel that I’m aiming a little high to hit the gold.

So I shoot a kinetic Vygo 36# bow I’ve recently changed to Alimax arrows. For 40m, I’m aiming point on with 3 fingers just under the arrow and anchoring at the right canine. So for 50m, I thought I’d do the same but split finger (one over the arrow, to reach the further distance) but the arrows are going too high. Anchoring lower on my face isn’t as accurate. Any tips on what I can do? Best case at the moment is split finger, anchor on canine and aiming at the bottom black or slightly lower but it’s not consistent…

I’m looking at getting a set of midrange arrows for general use practice that will be both indoor and outdoor barebow.

I am shooting a Hoyt Arcos with a Spigarelli rest. Should I be getting vanes or feathers and what length?

Is it worth spending a bit extra on a clicker for practice or is the cheap ones just as good?

Am I the only idiot who smacks his enormous nose with the string? I use an anchor off my eye tooth (I’m not changing it), but I routinely blast my nose with the string. Is this common, a result of bad form, something I can fix?

Need advice: Need a set of 12 or so. New to barebow. 34lb limbs (long), 25” riser, 28.5” draw length. Would like to keep it under $100 - 150 tops or so.

What’s up BB folks? I just got a new Gillo GF riser (which I’m wildly excited about) but the foam in my hard case is cut for my old G1 that I’ll be selling. Has anyone had any luck with replacement foam for cases, or have a recommendation on where to get one? I’d buy a new case but I don’t wanna lose my stickers more than anything (priorities, right?). Thanks all.

No sight no worries!

I have been out of the sport for several years, but used to be decently competitive. What is Barebow looking like on a nat. level? Are Demmer and Greyson still keeping things locked down?

Seeing as it's pretty dead here, everyone just over at r/archery or is there any other online communities for barebow?

Hiya! I was wondering where exactly the line fore bare bow is? I know stabalizers and sites are definitely out but i saw a post here about weights,

This sub's kinda dead so let me throw a newbie question out there –

I've only been shooting for three months. I'm currently using a WNS riser with a generic stick-on rest, the kind you get from Lancaster for like $2. I've been thinking about getting a wire rest, but some (looking at you Shibuya Ultima) can be pricey so I don't want to invest in one prematurely.

At what point should a new archer consider upgrading their rest? When is it going to make a difference?

Hi archers, I am barebowing around 2 years now and I want to move on new gear. My biggest question are limbs, as I am not settled in poundage I am thinking about some cheaper limbs, like kinetic honoric 28#-30# What are your suggestions or tips? Thanks for any reply.

I am setting my nocking point height with ACEs. I am finding the nocking point using bare shafts to be almost at 0. I have always had my nocking point around 8mm with Avance arrows. I have never known nocking points to be so low? Could there be something else going on? Or should I just go with the bare shafts?

BTW, I am shooting an 27" ATF-X with Uukha SX-50 longs at about 36# OTF. My tiller is neutral. I am shooting three under with a 1.75" crawl for 20m. The ACEs are 28", 670 spine, 90 grain points. My AMO draw length is around 30".

I've been shooting barebow for many years. Recently I've decided to try out shooting spinwing type vanes for the first time (spider vanes - 1,5). But no matter what I try I can't get the arrow to not clip the side of my bow. Either the top vane hits my plunger or ,due to the design of the Zniper rest I'm using, the bottom vane catches the arrow rest wire. For now I'm going back to shooting regular rubber vanes. Did anyone else have a similar problem with the Zniper and spinwing vanes?

Hello, I have a doubt. If for example I use #42 medium limbs and pull to anchor point #45 with my olimpic target setup. Should I get lighter limbs for a barebow setup? Let's say #38 long limbs. My reasoning is that without all the stabilizers it will be more dificult to keep the bow under control and having lighter limbs will make it easier. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Also... is it better to have limbs that feel more "squishy" at anchorpoint or to have one that feel "harder/more defined"? Example my MXT-GFs feel "squishy", while my teamate Skadis feel "harder/more defined" at anchorpoint. (Both in olimpic recurve setups).

Thank you.

Hi there i love bare bow archery and i love gaming now in my game i shot a moose bare bow ( obviously) 80 meters away my character walks 5.3 meters a second ( the 80 meters took 15 seconds) and the arrow only took 1 or 2 seconds to fly from my character to the moose

Now i know this is a game an most likely not realistic but what would be the pondage ?? The arrows are weightless in the game but it had an iron classic arrow tip 3 feathers and a wood shaft

My character is roughly 1 neter 83 and the bow is

This bow

hunting bow skyrim

Just shot my second National Indoors event and did terribly on the first day. Didnt come close to a PB and my bow arm stability seemed terrible.

In a drastic step I borrowed a 500gr weight to add to my ~1.8kg bow overnight and improved my score by 82 on the second day to smash my PB.

While the bow arm stability was great, what surprised me most is that getting to full draw felt much smoother and my body overall felt much more comfortable through the shot. The one time I did flinch as I released an arrow, it just resulted in going high into the 7, instead of the 3-2 zone I flinched into the day before.

Riser Setup:

Gillo GT27" riser
320gr Yost weight in thread closest to handle
500gr custom weight in the bottom thread.

So I have always loved the idea of using a primitive bow for hunting. A flatbow or longbow or even a recurve. I have used recurves in the past but the draw weight was too heavy (55 lbs) and my form wasn’t good as a result. In my state the minimum draw weight for hunting is 35 lbs. If I don’t want to buy multiple bows over time or get a take down bow, is there any way for me to practice form/build strength until I can comfortably draw 35 lbs? My draw length is 28 inches. I’m a small guy, only 140 lbs. Everything I’m reading says not to start off with a draw weight more than 20-25 lbs…

Hi all. Since yesterday, I haven’t been able to access the r/Archery feed. It says it’s been turned to private, though I had already been following it. Anyone else facing the same issue?